garypl

Thanks - it does look nice - but its a pain to cut a straight line because its so bumpy. On the plus side it is a lot less expensive than real alligator!

Thanks Kiwican! I got to thinking and as thick and heavy as this sheath turned out, one might use it as a weapon if they lose the dagger!

Nice looking paint job. I have played around a little with acrylic paint on leather and it seems to be pretty durable even before it is sealed with a topcoat. I guess it's all subject to how the article is used/handled how long before you see the paint wearing off.

Thanks Stetson - it's stitched at @4.5 spi. I didn't have to make it this thick, but I wanted to see how easy it would be to sew it with the 4500! Good point about the leather softening up over time - my friend will never carry this though - just for his collection! Used a hand held wood burnisher - amazing how nicely better quality leather will burnish compared to some of the stretchy leather I have used in the past. Thanks Rohn!

A friend bought a dagger on eBay and asked me to make a sheath for it. Here is the result. This is the first time I tried sewing this thickness of leather with my CB 4500. It is made of 6 layers of veg tan leather totaling about 5/8" thickness (4 layers of 8 oz and 2 layers 4 oz that I used as liners.). I first tried sewing with 207 thread and 23 needle. On the 2nd stitch I saw the needle bending about halfway through and stopped immediately! Started over with 277 thread and #25 needle and it sailed right through. It caused a small flaw that you can see on the upper left side of the rear of the sheath. I used 207 thread in the bobbin. I made the sheath thick to accommodate the hilt so it will not dig into the back of the sheath. The fit is very snug, so probably could have skipped the strap. Every time I use my CB 4500 I learn a little more about how to use it and I think my results are getting a little better with every project. I appreciate your comments and suggestions! Gary

Thanks very much!

Looks really good! Look forward to seeing the completed bags.

Looks good - she will appreciate your thoughtfulness!

Now you have to get a musket so you can make a bag for yourself!

You did a nice job with this. Seems a bit larger than the bags I have been using for muzzleloading, but that's a personal preference anyway. Is it a single compartment inside or did you divide it, use pockets, etc.?

Thanks Bikermutt - I would have used the embossed leather for the cutter case, but I couldn't start it until yesterday afternoon when I received the cutter and I needed to finish it this morning. The embossed leather is harder to work with because it is so rough/irregular and I didn't think I would have it finished in time for the party! Thanks HideCreek - I used a $10 airbrush from Harbor Freight. It works great for spraying dyes or Resolene. I have a $150 airbrush that I rarely use because it is more difficult to clean and I really don't need the precision when spraying dye or finish on the entire piece. Thanks Kiwican! Appreciate everyone's comments!

Really nice work! Thanks for sharing

Made a cigar case and a case for a cigar cutter today for my friend's birthday tomorrow. Used 4 oz embossed veg tan for the cigar case and lined it with pig skin. The cutter case is plain 4 oz veg tan. I dyed the cases with a base coat of tan and followed with chocolate oil dye - both sprayed with air brushes. Sprayed resolene (2 coats) followed by atom wax. I used 3/4" dowels to form the case. I'm learning how to use my CB4500 and it is great how much time it saves me compared to saddle stitching. i appreciate any comments or criticism!

I meant the back loop section - so it looks less square at the bottom. You could also taper the holster pouch as well - that would make it look slimmer for sure!

Nice job! I think it would look even better if you tapered the bottom of the holster a bit so it is not so wide at the bottom - just my opinion, no right or wrong way!

Looks very nice! Is that LCP holster sewn into the bag or does it come out? What weight / type of leather did you use?

Good point Rick! I will be happy as long as I continue to improve my techniques and quality!

I use a mixture of beeswax, carnuba, neatsfoot oil, and lanolin - approximate ratios are 40% each beeswax and neatsfoot, 15% lanolin and 5% carnuba. Melt together and pour in a jar to harden. It's soft enough to scoop with your finger to rub it into the leather.

Looks great! Please tell us type of leather and where did you buy the zipper? It looks very sturdy.

Thanks everyone! Fred, I appreciate your comment on the stitching - I have to remember that being hand made means one of a kind and if you look hard enough you almost always will find a flaw. Looking at all of the great looking projects posted in this forum encourages me to keep improving the quality of my projects.

Ron and Bob - thanks for your kind words! I hope to keep improving as I get more practice with all of these leatherworking activities.

I made a sheath for an old Japanese sushi knife I rediscovered buried in my kitchen drawer. I spent 3 hours honing the blade to remove nicks it had from banging around the drawer unprotected. I gave the knife to my son and decided it needed a sheath to protect the blade and keep his fingers safe when grabbing the knife from the drawer. I used two layers of 4-5 oz veg tan and used the same leather for the welts. Put a small piece of pigskin inside to cover the snap and keep it from rubbing against the blade. i'm still learning how to use my Cowboy CB4500 and I have to get better keeping my stitches an even distance around the edges. I used the roller edge guide for the first time and it worked well, but I had to hold the sheath up a bit to keep the piece level due to the uneven backside caused by the strap. I sealed the dye with resolene then applied two coats of a homemade mix consisting of beeswax, carnuba, neetsfoot oil, and lanolin. Heated the leather with a hairdryer to melt the wax in and buffed it out. I appreciate any feedback!

I made a sheath for an old Japanese sushi knife I rediscovered buried in my kitchen drawer. I spent 3 hours honing the blade to remove nicks it had from banging around the drawer unprotected. I gave the knife to my son and decided it needed a sheath to protect the blade and keep his fingers safe when grabbing the knife from the drawer. I used two layers of 4-5 oz veg tan and used the same leather for the welts. Put a small piece of pigskin inside to cover the snap and keep it from rubbing against the blade. i'm still learning how to use my Cowboy CB4500 and I have to get better keeping my stitches an even distance around the edges. I used the roller edge guide for the first time and it worked well, but I had to hold the sheath up a bit to keep the piece level due to the uneven backside caused by the strap. I sealed the dye with resolene then applied two coats of a homemade mix consisting of beeswax, carnuba, neetsfoot oil, and lanolin. Heated the leather with a hairdryer to melt the wax in and buffed it out. I appreciate any feedback!

Thanks Bob - I drifted off a little on the RH side, but the stitches were even! Learning as I go and having fun!

I just bought a Cowboy 4500 from Bob at Toledo Sewing and could not be happier! Thickest leather I have sewn is 3 layers of 8-9 oz veg tan, but it sews 2 layers of upholstery leather without touching the tension. I bought a bit more machine than I need now, because I would rather run the machine at the mid range of its capability than run at its max limits. It has been fun learning how to sew, as I have never sewn on a machine before. Here is a photo of the first project - a sheath for my Japanese paring knife.