garypl

Nice job - I really like the border work. Did you freehand the lines or use a pattern to layout the serpentine border? Looks like you cut the border lines with a swivel knife, then beveled the edges before stamping the border? Thanks for sharing!

I bought the lube in the picture from Bob at Toledo Sewing. Don’t remember the cost, but I don’t think it was too expensive and should last a very long time!

That bag looks really nice and clean - great job!

Hi Karl - welcome! This is a great forum for sharing ideas and projects - look forward to seeing your projects. Gary

Like cjartist, I use the small scraps to test dyes before I dye my projects.

Really looks nice - stitching on both sides looks almost identical - nice job!

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My cousin is going deer hunting for the first time and just bought his first rifle, so I decided to make him a cartridge pouch to take on his hunt. This was my first attempt, so I learned from my mistakes. The front piece is 4-5 oz veg tan lined with pigskin. For the back section I used a piece from an old mail pouch that I have had since 1977. I always wanted to make something from it and this seemed like the right time to cut it up. It’s 10 oz and I lined it with pigskin. I made a wood form for the front section and clamped it overnight. The interior to hold 4 cartridges is made from 6 pieces of the mail pouch laminated together. I drilled holes to fit the cartridge case. Glued everything together, dyed with Fiebings Pro Oil dye and finished with Resolene followed by atom wax. Edges finished with Giardini black edge paint. Biggest mistake I made was the Sam Brown stud is slightly off center. I have to remember to measure twice! The top flap is a different color than the front because it is made from 40+ year old leather and the front is new veg tan. It was a fun project and look forward to making one for myself. Also made a cigar case from embossed 4-5 oz veg tan.

That is a beautiful portfolio - really nice work!

I always cut the liner a bit larger, then glue the pieces together and trim the liner after the glue dries. Allows for wiggle room when you put the pieces together so perfect alignment is not critical.

Also my favorite rifle, but mine is in 45-90 loaded with black powder! (see my profile pic) - now you have me thinking about making a nice cartridge belt for it...

If the paper resisted scratching with keys, etc., sounds like it will hold up ok for a ladies wallet...

Looks great, but I would be worrying about durability of the paper in a wallet! What are your thoughts about this? (Tearing, wrinkling, etc.)

Great information Dwight - thanks very much for sharing it! Gary

I use thin pigskin on some on some of the small items I make. This checkbook has light color pigskin lining.

I use masking tape along the glue line if I am concerned about glue getting on areas I plan to finish - apply tape, spread glue, then take off tape before the glue sets. The tape will remove color on pre-finished leather, so I only use it on unfinished leather.

Thanks! I used 3/4” dowels inside and 1/2” dowels outside with small strips between the larger dowels to maintain spacing. The old cast iron holds everything in place while the leather dries. I think the 3/4” dowels were a good fit for #52 cigars. - Gary

I like the idea of using magnets for retention. How much resistance is there pulling out the knife? Will it withstand holding upside down and shaking? Nice job on that handle!

Welcome Ivan - I look forward to seeing your projects. So many helpful folks here to help us learn!

Here is a link from Pinterest - not certain who makes it https://m.facebook.com/mini5leather/photos/a.1562899053923359.1073741828.1561037437442854/1573422866204311/?type=3&source=44

I have seen knife sheathes with Kydex liners - very thin and strong. If you must have maximum protection against piercing the leather, give Kydex a try. Available in small pieces on line.

I have been using Giardini edge paint and I really like the smooth finish. Not into making wallets, so can't make any suggestions on this.

I normally dye the leather and then oil it

Beautiful work - I can't imagine making something so detailed!

If my memory is correct I used @ 3/8" - 1/2"seam allowance. As I fit the gusset to the front and rear panels I cut the slots right up to the edge. I fold the front and rear edges of the gusset over and pre-punch holes in the gusset and the front and rear panels, I then start saddle stitching starting at one end and when I get to the curve I snip the small V slots right up to the stitch line as I go around the curve to allow the gusset to bend more easily.