Jump to content

Halitech

Members
  • Content Count

    1,229
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Halitech

  1. They think they are the only ones out to save the planet but they fail to realize, people are going to eat meat no matter what they do and as Dwight said, us making leather products from the skin makes us better stewards of the earth instead of throwing it in the waste. They think they are better because no living animal gets killed by what they do however, they fail to see what goes into the production of their vegan leather. Take the high road with them and don't let them drag you down to their level, that is what they are trying to do
  2. Had to take 2 separate pics, too long to get it all in 1 and still show any details
  3. I have the #2 and #3 edgers and I use the one that fits the leather I'm working on. Then I use the emery boards (what I actually use, not nail files) to get a smoother edge. You can also use very fine sandpaper. Just results in less stray fibers that you have to slick down with the water and beeswax I used to use gum trag, still have some but I find the beeswax gives a better, harder edge then just using the gum trag.
  4. I round my edges first, then use disposable nail files, the cheap ones at the dollar stores work fine, start with a rougher one and work towards the finer ones. Then wet and burnish with just water. Once that is as smooth as I want, then I hit it with beeswax and burnish again
  5. I use a heavier bladed box cutter and on 9oz leather, I usually make 3 or 4 swipes to get all the way through. 1 cut is fine on 3-4oz but with a very good quality head knife or similar, don't think you would ever do 1 pass cutting
  6. having an "opps" in every project makes it unique so they don't all look like they rolled off an assembly line where they are stamped and cut in 1 step. Obviously some opps shouldn't be included but the main thing is, does the customer like it? If they do, take where you made the mistake, learn from it and do better on the next one.
  7. Here is the direct link https://mainethread.com/index.php/waxed-polycord I've been ordering the 0.030" and it is a dream to sew with. Has just enough wax that it pulls through, does not split when you are trying to thread the needle but doesn't drag when you are pulling it through the hole
  8. Looks like it really turned out good. I just changed from using Tandy's thread to buying from Maine Leather Co. Little more expensive, especially with shipping to Canada but worth it. And lots of color options as well.
  9. Looks good other then what you pointed out. I usually go with the rule of thumb of leaving 1/4" from the edge where I don't tool. That leaves me room to sew it without going into the tooling and if I need to sand the edges to get the parts to match.
  10. I should add on a positive note, your wet molding and your stitching actually looks pretty good. If you didn't have to add the piece on the back, you could have trimmed it closer to the stitching
  11. The clip you used is fine, it's an issue with your installation method. That clip is designed so you cut a slit in the leather and put the clip back through the slit and then install your rivet. The slit keeps it from moving around. And don't worry, you aren't the first person to not use it correctly For the snaps, what I usually do is put the male on where it needs to usually be put on before assembly, then once the rest is done, close your cover and press hard, it will leave a dent you can use to line up your female part.
  12. I have a cheap one of both. The double action is good for dye and I use the single action and adjust the pressure for spraying resolene.
  13. I'm guessing that this is for a large sized dog. I'd be worried about the rivets holding the buckle in place and I would have gone with stitching myself. And with that many rivets and studs, I probably would have lined it just to keep the dogs hair from getting caught. Stamps look good and looks like you lined the crystal rivets up pretty good.
  14. Only issue with using a resist or mask is you end up with a solid line instead of a faded effect. Airbrush or block dying would be the best 2 options
  15. This started out as a natural guitar strap with a verse from a song hand written in ink with the treble clef carved into it. I screwed up and somehow got some red dye on the front so I had to redo the strap. I ordered some python print from SLC and decided to cut out the area where the words were originally and use the python as an inlay. Body of the strap is 7oz (skived down from 9oz) with a 2oz pigskin liner. I had a hard time getting all the resolene off so I used vinegaroon to make it black. It did an okay job but still hit it with some black dye to give it a brighter black. All hand sewn with saddle stitch using 0.030" black thread from Maine Thread Co.
  16. Here is what I came up with. 6oz back and middle, 4oz for the card slot. Dyed with oxblood and black antique. Hand sewn with black waxed polythread from Maine Thread Co. Fits up to a 2.75"x5.25x3/8" phone.
  17. Thanks snubby, as I said, I don't have much experience, just going on what I've seen with others. That does make sense that the strap should prevent an accidental discharge but still usually better to be safe then sorry
  18. any of these help? http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=59177&hl=watch http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=17858&hl=watch
  19. It looks like you got a good deep impression on your stamping but you can see a few places where you got out of alignment, especially right below the concho and snap. What did you use to make the holes for your stitching? They almost look way too big for the size thread that you used. And while I'm no expert on holsters only having made a few myself, but the trigger should drop down in farther to prevent it from getting hooked on something and accidentally causing a discharge. Maybe rohn will chime in now that pics have been loaded
  20. Somehow I missed this. Looks great but I can see why he's angry, looks like he's having trouble taking a dump between his shoes lol
  21. wow, that is just beautiful. Both my mother and grandmother quilt so I know the work she put into that and she did a beautiful job on it
  22. I totally missed the part about the red. You will need a very steady hand to do the lines. Tandy used to have a product called Block out but I haven't seen it lately. Most of us usually use super shene as a resit
  23. first off, are you planning on painting or dying? If you are dying, then you can do it a few ways. You can dye each block individually being very careful. Or, you can dye the black ones, then put a resist over them and then dye the entire thing with brown. You could even use the antique medium brown. Or, you could dye the brown and then resist before doing the black but you may end up with the black covering the brown that way.
×
×
  • Create New...