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Halitech

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Everything posted by Halitech

  1. Usually I dye the leather, give it a coat of neatsfoot oil or olive oil and let that dry. Then depending on what it is, either supersheen, resolene or tankote. If it's a belt, guitar strap or rifle sling, I'll do the backside with snoproof unless I'm lining it.
  2. Congrats Bob, your work is above outstanding and your willingness to help the rest of us out, makes you truly worthy of the award
  3. what I've done is only use very light pressure then lay it on a flat surface and run my burnisher over it to eliminate the mushroom
  4. I agree with Otto, cut and then sand the edges so you get a more uniform edge then use a wing divider to get your stitches closer to the edge. They should be about 1/8" - 3/16" from the edge. Then once you have your stitching done, sand it lightly again and then burnish.
  5. cool idea on using a small rivet for the primer on the shell, never would have thought of that
  6. If you have the room and access to one, get a small compressor and air brush for your resolene, you won't get any streaks that way
  7. Very nice and I like the way you rounded the inside corners of the slots
  8. Nice work kiwi. Have to admit when I saw you posting about a bikini I wasn't sure what to think I was going to see lol
  9. If you can rub it off, even slightly, then to me it's something topside. I've never seen tan kote do that before
  10. The tan kote should waterproof them. How long are you letting them dry between each step?
  11. Vinegaroon is not a dye, it's actually a chemical reaction with the leather so it's not really something that is going to work well with just trying to get the top layer colored. And it should take close to a month for a batch of vinegaroon to really work well. And as Red Cent says, dunk it, wait only a few minutes then put it in the baking soda solution. If you let it sit for a day and it barely touched the surface, your vinegaroon wasn't ready to use. Vinegaroon shouldn't have much of a vinegar smell once it's ready to use.
  12. When I make a sheath, I make a tracing of the blade itself then add 1/4" around it. Then I cut both the tracing of the blade and the 1/4" outside to use as my welt. I use the same piece as my outline for the front and back piece. In case you are talking about the thickness, I try and get a piece of leather that is the same thickness of the blade are its thickest point. In both cases, it helps hold the blade without being too tight in case the snap/button stud doesn't get closed here's the tutorial I use when making one http://www.knifenetwork.com/forum/showthread.php?t=41280
  13. PM sent
  14. nice work Chief and interesting combo but if that's what they want, they should be happy with it
  15. I had that happen on a belt I was making for my mother, I was the middle letter in her name and I inadvertently turned it sideways. I made a pattern of 3 sideways I's and moved her name to the sides. She still doesn't know the difference lol
  16. I've done the same thing myself but it does look cool and someone that has never done leatherwork wouldn't know the difference
  17. Bob, that probably does make more sense, I was told you could do it after to smooth it out. I guess it depends on how hard you press on it
  18. very cool but I would have rather seen her when she was 100 years younger lol
  19. would love to have a copy as well if you would be so kind as to share
  20. usually I will cut a bit longer then I want then dry fit and cut again if needed. Personally, I like the butt fit with sewing over a rivet edge.
  21. looks good but I'm just wondering, are the squares around the letters on the HD belt intentional or just where you pressed too hard?
  22. already paid for the order from turtle but when I need some more, I'll look up lonsdale
  23. Looks good. I like the dark edge with the lighter main part. Looks like the buckle hole is slightly off to one side by about 1/16"
  24. I like it Chief. The design makes it easy for a woman to dump everything out to find what they are looking for lol
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