Halitech

might sound unconventional but I picked up a small wood plane that I use to skive my edges. I have the tandy super skiver but found I couldn't get consistent results. Started using the plane and found it much easier to handle and got much better results.

both of them look pretty good but I have to ask, why would anyone carry a small bottle of tabasco sauce with them?

relying on glue on is not usually the best idea. I think most of us use glue only to help things together until we finish assembly with sewing or rivets

I'm using Tandy's Eco-Weld. It comes out like white glue and seems to really bond well. I've even used it to glue edges together in a butt joint and it held while sewing them together. I usually let it sit about 20 minutes or so ( I usually forget about it while I do something else)

beautiful work as always Chief

looks great and I'd be happy to get one

Looks great. My only concern is with the metal loops you used to put it together on the sides. I'd be worried that because it's not tight that it could allow the leather to separate on the sides with use.

for the one I made, I used veg tan for the body then used double milled to make a padding for it that was flipped up around the edge and sewn along the edge on the top

not bad overall. Can see where the knife got away from you in a few places and running a modeling spoon over your beveling will do wonders for your carving.

can't seem to find the link right now but he's the picture demo http://www.kingsmerecrafts.com/page100.html

I think she's talking about whatever it is behind the bike. And this is just my opinion but a biker or roper wallet just doesn't work with using liner leather for the inner layers. For bifolds or pockets in a long wallet they are okay but this style should be all tooling leather. Also, your edges don't look like they were burnished at all, something that will be hard with using the liner leather for the insides as it just doesn't burnish all that well.

not to knock the double loop but if you really want to step it up, go with the Mexican round braid. I used to use the double loop a lot and found the Mexican is not any harder and looks a lot nicer imo Chief has a good video series on youtube to show how it's done I do like how you went with a contrasting color for the snap piece but I can see that rivet working itself loose pretty quickly and causing an issue. I would have Made it more in a T shape and sewn it in place

looks much better with everything sewn in instead of the rivets. 2 small things I would do is 1. continue the stitching between the money holder and the card slot and 2. bevel the edges before burnishing.

Have you checked with a fabric supply company in the area? They may have them and if not, may be able to point you somewhere you can get the size you want.

You can get a large eyelet kit at places like walmart for a cheap price. I bought a kit with 10 eyelets and the tools for under 10.00. I think they were 1/2" holes if I remember right

try it on some scrap first. Make sure you let the dye dry good first. Then apply a coat of super sheen and let that dry at least 12 hours. You may also want to apply a second coat and let that dry as well before doing the antique stain

I just use a lighter and hold the flame just close enough that it melts without actually touching the tread.

what I usually do if I'm using multiple stains or dyes is do my darkest colors first, apply a blocker like super sheen to what I've already dyed, then apply the lighter over everything. The super sheen acts as a resist and prevents the lighter from coloring over the black.

I seldom tie anything off, I just back stitch a few, end both threads on the same side, cut them about 3/16" and melt them. Then hammer them flat

typically I use water first then pure beeswax although some use gum trag

wouldn't need a full sized one. I have a dremel work station that use on thick leather

even as an after thought, you could have sewn it in place might sound odd but you could use an awl blade in a drill press to punch your holes,just don't turn it on

cool inner design with the coin pocket but I can see the flap letting coins to come out since it doesn't completely cover the opening. Also, I would have gone with much thinner leather to cut down on the bulk, it's going to get thick fast if you put any coins in it. Did you use anything in the ID window? Stitching looks much better on this one but still needs the edges being burnished. I would also round the edges on the corners to keep them from getting banged up as bad.

cool design but personally, using rivets instead of sewing the top flap on gives it a half thought out design since everything else is sewn. stitching is also kind of rough. Did you use pricking irons or a stitching wheel to place them or just eyeballed it? Inside stitches look more evenly placed from the edge so maybe it was the angle of your awl going through the leather. Edges don't look like they were burnished either