Halitech

Similar to this one https://www.ebay.ca/itm/110V-3500MW-DIY-Laser-Engraver-Cutter-Cutting-Machine-Printer-210-170mm/192437293179?hash=item2cce28107b:g:apIAAOSwLs9aaE4f But the seller I got it from was a lot cheaper and had a 5.5W laser ummm not really lol I'd like to keep it just in case

I've retired mine. Not because there is anything wrong with it, but I got a bigger faster and more powerful machine. I didn't go crazy, I just went with the 2 legged free arm machine with a 5.5W laser with an almost 7"x8" burn area. I have a logo I burn regularly and my burn time decreased from 35 minutes to 4:15. Haven't tried it yet with cutting.

3 sides. use 2 for card slots - 3 on each one and then make a coin pouch on the remaining side

I use these in a 4 and a 1 https://www.tandyleather.ca/en/product/pro-line-lacing-chisels-1-8-3-mm Premium calf lace in 1/8" https://www.tandyleather.ca/en/product/premium-calf-lace-25-yard-22-9-m-spool I prefer the lok-eye needles https://www.tandyleather.ca/en/product/lok-eye-needle-hook-n-eye-10-pk

1 thing I learned very quickly is that you do not want to mix and match Tandy snaps and someone else's dies. I bought a set of glove snap dies from aliexpress. Don't work for shit with Tandy glove snaps. I bought a pack of matching dies from aliexpress, and they work like a charm. And I use the dies with a 1T arbor press from Princess Auto.

We used to have a member here that did a wicked set of videos on the Mexican Round Braid and had them on Youtube. Sadly he removed all of them. I used to have a site that described it but they seem to be gone too. 1 main thing to remember when doing the corners, make the corner hole and the 2 next to it larger by about half as the lace will go through those holes more. Each one normally goes twice, the 5 at the corner will go 3 - 3 - 4 - 3 - 3

Don't see why not. Just need to watch where you are punching holes so you don't get in somewhere you don't want them

I've done bifolds, trifolds and biker/long wallets with the Mexican round braid. Roo lace would be best but I've done it with calf lace and Imperial lace from Tandy

If you can cancel your order, you really want 135x16 or 135x17 needles. the 134's are much too long but the 135's are only 1/8" and by doing the needle bar mod, you can make them fit. And regardless of what needle you use, you want them to just poke out the bottom so you can feel it on your finger but not break the skin.

Personally, I always try to avoid stitching across when I do stitch the buckle one. Some will say it doesn't matter, some swear that it does weaken the leather. And like most, I use snaps or Chicago screws so that when the buckle breaks, you can swap it out for a new one. Second, and this is personal preference, but I always do an border 3/16" from the edge. I find it gives a more finished look than tooling right to the edge.

I've used 138 myself with no mods. People that have done the mods can easily expect to use 207 and a few have reported to be using 277 with an industrial size 24 needle

Are you cutting off the excess and peening the end over?

I've had one almost a year and yes, 1 turn of the handle is 1 stitch. The slow speed is good for super control. Having both hands free to control the leather will be good with the slow speed

I wold kind of do both. I would lay out where they are going, including holes, mark everything and then do the tooling. Then do any dye work before putting the conchos on.

If it's veg tan then yes, it will burnish. If it's already dyed, be very careful. Been talking to a bunch of people that were sold what they were told was veg tan roo but is actually chrome tanned.

No reason why #2 can't be done out of leather. You'll need to either wet mold or make the flap out of a T shape and stitch the edges but it should work.

It might help if you explain what you are planning on doing with it. If you are going to be forming it, anything pre-oiled and water resistant can't be formed. Only veg tan can be wet formed.

If you are looking for heavy duty, consider there is a large difference in price for a reason. No "heavy duty" leather sewing machine will come with a zig-zag stitch, it's just not used. Foot lift is only 3/8". A lined gun holster will put that machine to its max capacity. "We trust that if you’re looking at this machine, your main purchase will be to sew through thick fabric" Thick fabric to them is 10 layers of denim. The consistency of denim and the consistency of leather are totally different. It also has a max thread size of v92 and most holster makers use v207 or v277. If you were making chaps and jackets/vests, I'd say it might be okay but you mentioned gun holsters so I'm going to say no. Spend the extra and get something that will handle it.

Those are formats used for images yes but you can use letters in an image as well. This is a logo I create for my son who is a member of his schools unified basketball team

I've used PNG, GIF and JPG with mine. STL are generally for 3D printers as far as I've heard

This might help but that's a lot of area to make up http://www.knifenetwork.com/forum/showthread.php?t=41280

I use 1 of these for edge paint https://www.ebay.ca/itm/2in1-Edge-Dye-Pen-Applicator-Belt-Edge-Paint-Oil-Roller-Tools-DIY-Leather-Craft/123973890154?hash=item1cdd6b706a:g:hH4AAOSwxIldy5SZ and a cotton swab for dying edges cause I'm really cheap lol

He didn't, he stitched 2 pieces together. In theory though, you could take a big enough piece and cut a circle in the middle then cut the strap out in a circle, same idea as a lace cutter. Then soak it and stretch it straight.

This is one I did for a lady that runs a rescue shelter. It's 5' with 2 2' leads to walk 2 dogs at once.

Honestly, until I replaced the rivets with either rivet and burr style rivets, stitched the snap and handle ends, or did a bleed knot on both ends, I personally wouldn't sell it. You get a 100 pound dog pulling on that with some good hard jolts, and the dog is running free. I sell 6' leads using bleed knots for 60.00