Halitech

Check JLS Leather, he has some free and some paid patterns, he might have what you want. If not, you can always make your own

Looks good. My only concern would be the rivets working loose on the suspenders. Leather doesn't have the give that elastic ones do so you could find you may need to replace them often. I would have added a little more to the flip side and sewn them into place. Unless you used chicago screws with locktite, then ignore what I just said

Looks really good but 2 small things I would have done different. First, I either would have used a smaller snap (line 20 instead of a line 24) or I would have made the retaining strap a little wider. Second, I would have cut the strap shorter so it ended just beyond the snap instead of having it extend what looks like about 2"

Thanks for this Kate, I did this yesterday and last night and between the pdf pattern and your step by step instructions, it was easy to follow and make.

Send Johanna a message asking for permission to join the Adult section http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showuser=5

if it's on a belt, chances are it's probably not a stamp but a roller used to do entire belts exactly the same from end to end and by the looks of the leather, I'd say it's a pretty old one too

very nice work. I like the belt loops myself as the clips keep coming off my belt when I'm moving around

I got it honestly, it looks like a single loop to me but I've been doing mexican round braid so long that it's all I'm used to doing

do you have an image to show us? would make it easier to help you

Looks good, I like the way you resisted the area around the name so it shows lighter then the rest of the sling what sized letters did you use to stamp the name?

I'm with Troy as I do this more as a hobby then a business so I usually double the cost of the leather and then 10% more of the actual shipping cost if I'm shipping it. Ultimately it will come down to what the market in your area will support. If your cost is 50.00 but others are selling for 75.00, then unless you have a much superior product (both in quality of materials and workmanship) then you will have to adjust accordingly. On the other hand if your cost is 25.00 and others are selling for 75.00 but lesser quality, then sell for 75.00 and you'll probably sell more.

Looks really good and I really like the way you used the oval rings in the strap but like most straps I've seen, isn't it going to be a bugger getting the pins out of the strap when it comes time to change the battery?

A few things that are more of a personal preference that I think would increase the look substantially. First, the rivets are fast but sewing or lacing the edges will look a lot nicer and reduce the amount of leather required to make an item. Also, the rivets will work themselves loose over time meaning you will have to put new ones in eventually. Second, on the corners, round them slightly. Even if you use something small like a quarter, it will prevent them from getting banged up. Third, burnish your edges. Fourth, on the opening side on the back, keep your edge the same as the other 3 sides so it looks more uniform. You did do a good job of keeping the basket weave going straight which a lot of people do have issues with and your dye job looks really nice. Keep up the good work and I look forward to seeing more from you in the future

not sure what the difference is but all mine are Craft tool and I'm not gentle on them and I've never even had one bend slightly. And I'm using the medium and heavy poly mauls from Tandy to hit them with.

you can still glue them then stitch around the slots, won't add anything to the thickness and will make them a little classier

basically they are relying on the glue holding the inside strips to not let go

maybe it's the soap, I just use water when burnishing and most of the time, I dye before I burnish. So it's sand, dye, burnish, beeswax

make sure you are gluing right to the edge and put lots of pressure on them until dry. What kind of glue are you using? Are you going over your edge with sandpaper before burnishing?

Had a customer contact me after one of the shows I attended and wanted a wallet and guitar strap for her husband for Christmas. The wallet is 4oz veg tanned for the outside and goatskin for the inside. I used the standard T Slot pattern for the slots and wrapped the edges around the outside to give it a more finished look. It's dyed Timber brown with medium brown antique and finished with 2 coats of resolene. The guitar strap is a single layer of 9oz veg tanned, dyed tan with tan antique. The top is finished with 2 coats of resolene and the backside is finished with snow proof. Since it's for a guitar with the attachments both on the body, I also made a strap to accommodate attaching to the neck in case he ever changes his guitar and the next one doesn't have the hook on the body. Both items are hand sewn with waxed linen thread and the edges are burnished with beeswax.

great tip another trick is coat it with something like snow proof, leave it thick in the crevices then go over it with a hair dryer. I found this out by accident

Here is a lot of info that will help make your belts the right size http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=60344&hl=%2Bdress+%2Bbelt#entry389049

I wasn't able to actually sit in and take a full class from Gary but I've picked his brains a few times when I was there to pick stuff up, he knows what he;s talking about. I look back at some of my early work and go wtf was I thinking of. It all comes with practice and screwing up. Those 45s can be tricky but what helps is to leave everything at a 90 then once you have it in place, use a really sharp knife and cut both pieces at the same time. We all have those last minute ideas that change everything but again, it's something that will come in with time and experience on how to cover those "oooppsss" moments. Keep up the good work and I look forward to seeing your next projects

I like the work you did with the bus pass/card case but just a few ideas on it. 1. I would have put a rolled leather edge on the bus pass window. It would give a more finished look. 2. I know it's hard to judge but I'd also move the stitching out closer to the edge and make sure all the sides line up instead of having those 2 stitches heading to the bottom that you don't have on the top corner. 3. On the inside where the edges come together at the corners, angle them at a 45 so they look smoother. On the comb case, if you are going to line it, line all of it and sew right around the entire edge. Also, on the corner where you sewed it, cut that on a round and it won't get so banged up as bad. The mask and the belt looks good

Overall I like it. good detail on the wet molding but I'm curious about the reasoning behind the thread pattern under the trigger guard.