Halitech

I've seen it done on roper (long) wallets with a snap but never pad attention to if they skipped holes or not so yes, it can be done, just not sure on the exact steps certainly you can, just go as far as you want then what I've done is slide the extra back in under the braid. Not sure if that's the proper way but it worked. I'd look at mexican round braid though myself, it "hugs" the edge better so it doesn't add as much width to the finished product

looks like just done with a groover to me, very carefully

very nice work. You can see where a few of the rivets are out of line but overall good job. My only concern is the d ring on the back. Where it's only on with 4 rivets, depending on the size and strength of the dog, a few good rushes and it could pull that off the main body of the collar. I would have either sewn it on or made that part as the main part with all the hardware and then added the backing with the domed rivets as a padding. Then you could have rolled the edges under the main body and hide the rivets. Just something to think about

very nice work as usual Chief I did have someone approach me to make a mandolin strap but never got back to me on color or anything so I let it go but I would like to add it to my offerings so any help would be appreciated

we might be able to give ideas if we knew more about what exactly you were trying to make

Here you go along with the instructions I used http://www.kingsmerecrafts.com/page112.html

Grey, with where he placed it, the billet will cover it anyway so not like it's really out where it's going to be seen. Even on the very last hole it looks like it should be hidden

looks good, the dye job on it all was nice and even and I love the baseball stitch on the blueprint case

after finishing my burnishing that cheryl pointed out I forgot to do

Did this up today as my old Fire Department is having their 100th anniversary. Made from 9oz leather with 6oz for the handle. Handle is sewn and riveted on. I used the applique lacing to put it together. Finished with Timber Brown dye and medium brown antique.

that is some real nice work. very good job for your first major project

one thing to keep in mind is the cutting edge is bigger then everything else so you need to make sure the opening will allow you to put the axe in and take it out once it's all assembled. Don't ask why I bring this up, just take the word of advice

nice work Cheryl, skadi will look spiffy in that

Thanks Cheryl lol @ Yin and yes, it's the Superman S inside the logo If you think that one's cool, hopefully you'll like the one I'm working on next

Latest wallet for a customer. 4oz veg tanned for the main part, 1.5oz for the fold out ID window. The logo was a bit of a bugger to tool but he's happy with it

15oz will be fairly stiff regardless of who made it. You can always cut it out, do your tooling then treat it with something like neatsfoot oil or EVOO to soften it. Something that thick would be ideal for a gun belt though where stiffness is desired.

ultimately you can do whatever you want with closures I think it looks good, bonus points if your initials are HR

with a lot of prayer

normally you only mark and punch from one side then use your awl to finish the holes.

Looks good. What kind of leather did you use and thicknesses? The end is different then most I've seen where they angle down the last 8-10 inches but that doesn't mean your design is wrong, just different

Pin them to the wall to look at and remind yourself to slow down and what not to do on the next ones?

overall looks good but on the last 4, your stitch length is a little long for my personal preference on an item of that size

very nice work. I really like the sunburst effect you did with it if it's a good seller then it can't be different in a bad way.

Most dyes, regardless of if you use water based or alcohol based, all remove moisture from the leather. The neatsfoot or olive oil replaces that moisture. If you check history, the US calvary used olive oil for years on their saddles and tack so it must be good. And yes, I use it on the flesh side. It seals it and helps smooth the backside down.

as Tom says, once you get your angle right, hold the groover in place and rotate your leather, it does make it easier then trying to move the groover around the corners