Colt W Knight

Thanks yall

I was having that problem until I started cleaning my leather with saddle soap while it was still wet during the casing phase.

I went into a local glass fab store, and they quoted me 77$. I wish I could find a store like yours locally.

All my tools are Tandy, and the bevelers are the worst. I always have to take a modeling spoon to my bevels to even them out. I have some Tandy bevelers I bought during their super cheap stamp sale that I can't even use. I intend on replacing all my regularly used tools with higher quality as I can afford them. I will say, I have the Tandy Pro Series swivel knives, and they are quite nice. The stamps, not so much.

Yes. I know, I know. Those pieces are all a combo of dye, antique, and acrylic. Browns, black, tans are always dye, then I add a resist coat and paint the colors. Then I add another resist coat, and go over the whole thing with antique to accentuate the tooling marks. You are welcome, and thank you for the compliment.

That bronze color is actually part of the plating process. Objects are plated with copper, then nickel, and then chrome. Of course, when you get into super cheap stuff like these beginner tandy stamps, their plating probably cuts corners. If you have a local contertop manufacturer, you can ask them for a sink cutout. They generally give them away, or only charge 10-15$ for a nice piece. They wont have fancy corners, but who needs that? I carve names all the time. I use a 3/8" straight blade for bigger blockier letters, and a 1/4" angled blade for smaller or script letters. I used my 3/8" straight blades to do all my letters before buying the second knife. With practice it works just as well, I am quicker with the angled blade on curves though. I use the straight blade first on everything I can because its a lot easier to sharpen than the angled blade. Regardless of blade type, that sucker needs to be sharp. It needs to cut through the leather effortlessly. If not, you will fight the tool and get ugly lines, IMO.

I still can't do floral very well, but one tip. When you do those leaves with jagged edges, don't swivel knife around the edges, Just use the stamp to make the serrations. Good solid base like a piece of granite or marble makes a big difference as well.

Thanks Bill

Thanks yall

and a second

Ive started slicking before tooling. I like the sheen it gives the leather. I only go over it 2-3 times.

Thanks Rohn

This is my first business padfolio

I have a Rigid Oscillating Belt and Spindle sander to do exactly what you are talking about. Typically, when you tool leather it distorts some, so glueing two pieces of tooled veg tan leather with perfect right angle is nearly impossible. So what I do is Cut the leather, tool it, dye it, and then glue/sew the two pieces together. Then move the piece over to my oscillating belt sander to flush up the edges. Once the edge are flush, I use my edge tool to bevel the edges. There is a little feathering on the edges sometimes, but it is removed after beveling. Then I dye the edges, add some saddle soap, and run the edges throuh my burnisher. Did this one yesterday

Thanks, I have done a couple University of Arizona As, but this is the first one I incorporated the white

1/16" is huge for leather sewing thread. # 277 thread, commonly used for Pistol belts and holsters is 0.0231" diameter, 1/16" is .0625"

Nade this for a professor - 8 ounce veg tan leather lined with red lambskin Treid something new, and added lambskin pockets Felt presentation bag

I've been using a square glass serving plate. It works, but I really want a real one eventually.

You can grab a wood burner for ~15$ and a stencil for a couple bucks. Or just use MS Word to get any script you would like.

So nice

What kind of Revolver is the one being worn on the hip?

Those are really nice

The back stitch on my 206 is the same as the forward stitch, the stitch length adjustment is a knob on the end of the forward/reverse lever. If you set the forward to 5 spi, then the back stitch is 5 spi. Mine will back stitch the same hole

I gave 400$ for mine used which I considered one helluva deal. With minimal effort, I got it clean, oiled, adjusted, and sewing. RB-1 are made in Japan, and from looking at mine, they are built like a tank. Used machines are hard to come by around here, so when they do come up, generally they are a lot more than used machines in other parts of the country. Those huge shipping costs and most folks unwillingness to ship used machines makes it tough for those of us looking for used machines.

You need to move to Hollywood and make movie props, Amazing!