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ArildS

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About ArildS

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    Oslo, Norway

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  1. Hi, yes the leather is literally packed with wax, but maybe it needs additional treatment? I would have thought this was the most waterproof of leathers, but I may be wrong. Anybody got some insight as to how one best waterproofs bridle leather?
  2. Thank you all for the kind words. Strange stuff is happening to the Sedgwick part of the bag. I posted some photos in the general forum: Just FYI, I've sent an email to the supplier (Abbey), I'll let you know what they have to say about it.
  3. Hello, today I was walking home from work with my new bag : and it started to rain lightly. Much to my surprise I saw the leather reacted and bubbles formed almost immediately. This is quite shocking to me, as we're talking Sedgwick bridle (shoulders, 3mm thickness), so surely this must be some kind of faulty piece? I've been inside for almost two hours now, and they seem to be permanent. What a bummer. Anybody seen this before? I couldn't find much online, but one is this: http://briannadressage.blogspot.no/2012/10/bubbles-on-my-saddle.html
  4. Made myself a new bag. It is hand sewn using yellow Somac 18/5, 3.85 mm stitch length. The leather is John Whites 4.5 mm sides, Sedgwick 3mm top , Dark Havana. The front and back is some kind of orthopedic leather, shaped around a wooden form. The strap goes around the bag once, to keep the top more rain proof, and I'm going to make a shoulder strap pad. The whole strap thing is temporary, and likely to be replaced. The bag is lined with some yellow/ green 'ish canvas furniture fabric. It's a good tip to choose a fabric color close to your thread, as it hides the stitches a little. > It's hard for a beginner like me to get good sticthes on this fabric, I think.. Edit: the buckles should have been roller type, I realize that now. Hope you like it:
  5. Hi, I bought 2, 8 and 12 prong irons from Amy Roke last year, sizes #9 and #7 (3.0 and 3.85 mm), 6 in total. I don't have much to compare with, but like to think I can recognize quality when I see it. I really like these. Well made, super finish, and they feel good to use. The first order was the #9's, and sadly they got chipped during shipping. No problems communicating back, so I wouldn't worry about that. They ordered new ones from the maker, which of course meant more waiting.. Before Christmas I ordered a set of #7's, and these took 3 months to arrive. There was Christmas of course, but also Chinese New Year meant there was an extra month added to production time. I had a Blanchard wheel to help me out, but the delivery time is certainly annoying. All was paid upon order, using PayPal. So... If you want Amy Roke irons, you need patience. It seems to me they are produced by order. Other than that, I have no complaints. Price is high, but so is the quality. @Amy Roke; if you read this ... STOCK UP!
  6. You're welcome. Obviously, getting the knot in the middle is a balance thing between upper/ lower thread, so you might also want to check bobbin tension if you still struggle. Make scrap pieces exactly similar to what you're sewing. For example a belt; make it extra long so you can cut off a piece to get the tension right. Also I think maybe D point needle is not the most common choice for heavier leather work? I don't know. I tend to use LR, which I think makes nice stitches (closer to a hand stitch look), but my machine and thread is heavier.
  7. Hello, are the knots visible on the top of the leather? Maybe too much tension on the top thread.
  8. Hello, I have 12 stamps and a 1/2" swivel knife for sale. I bought this in 2014, but I've ended up hand sewing bridle, so I won't be needing these. They're all unused or as new, as in 1 hour use in total. The spare blade is unused, angled blade has cut maybe 2 meters.. this simply didn't catch my interest as I thought it would. See attached photo for description of stamps and original receipt. This should be a great collection if you're starting out. The pebblers are maybe not on their site, but they make them I'm not splitting this up. Asking is $200, including postage. There are also 6 non-King stamps included; 3 Ivan, 3 crafttool ..
  9. I have lazy chefs for friends, and I use Naniwa 400, 800, 1000, 3000, 5000 and finally 8000 grit. The way I do things, it gets really sharp on the 5000, not before. The 5000 stone is magic. Creamy, in a way. I can recommend the Naniwa Chosera for the 400 to 1000, but then skip to Super series on the finer grits. I've bought knives from "chefknivestogo", happy with them, they have stones as well. Buy a stone holder. I'll be getting this: http://www.chefknivestogo.com/naao2kgrbr.html
  10. I thought the point was that the buckle shouldn't be wider than the belt, and that the width of the billet should be maybe half the width of the belt? However, after looking up "ranger belt" images on Google I'm not really sure. Any thoughts? Edit: and the keepers look a bit roomy
  11. Read this: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Veblen_good then look at this: https://www.etsy.com/no-en/shop/MataraCustomLeather?ref=l2-shopheader-name (random pick, nothing personal) I find this amusing: https://www.etsy.com/no-en/listing/47814234/black-leather-cuff-wristband-2-inch-wide?ref=shop_home_active_4 " A full 12 steps goes into making this simple sexy cuff " .... really, a full 12 steps, huh? Let's see, bevel 1 side, the 2nd .. that's 4 steps, slick the edges, another 4, whack in the buttons .... In short; if your shit doesn't sell, increase the price, and hope for the Veblen effect. Rgds, A
  12. Hi, it seems you may have crossed the threads incorrectly. Good images here: http://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/71454-beginners-attempt-at-saddle-stitch/
  13. Hi everybody, I meant to reply to a thread where someone suggested making this from old wooden skis, but can't find it. Anyway, thanks for the tip! Yesterday, I found a pair of old, high quality wooden skis at the local flea market. I cut to 85 cm total length, shaped fronts, screwed together, sanded flat using a piece of plywood and glued on some protective thin leather. That's it. Cost me five bucks and works great!
  14. " ... the plan right now is that we are going to order one from the US, and have it shipped here." Hold on, you live in Denmark... What's wrong with getting one from Germany, your neighbouring country, where they are/were made? There are suppliers down there, for example: http://www.sieck.de/maschinen/naehen/armnaehmaschinen/ Admittedly, I had to look up "Bayreuth", but you should be able to drive down there in half a day or so, or have it sent up, which ever is cheaper. Anyway, having one sent from the US is high cost (and higher risk). Buying from a supplier like Sieck seems safer, and they probably give you a warranty on used ones as well. I don't have any experience with them, it's more like an example.. the selection in Germany is a lot greater than Denmark. I also think the + 250,- euro option for a servo motor seems attractive. I don't really have any advise on which model you should choose, though. The 205-370 is my dream machine, but very expensive and perhaps too heavy duty for "leather pants". It's the toughest of the three, but that doesn't necessarily mean "more durable". If you can find one, I think it is the easiest one to sell (and get your money back) if you regret the decision. They are around 4.000 euros at Sieck, I think, if they have one at all. It can be hard to find. There is no good answer to "which machine is the best". Depends on what you are gonna use it for (the most). "Heavy harness" is a bit vague. How thick leather are you going to sew? There is a reason for the variety of models available, you know. There's simply no "one machine to rule them all". Rgds, A
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