BDAZ

After comparing the ingredients of mop & Glo and Resolene, it appears Mop & Glo has a much higher percntage of Acrylic polymers but it also contains a high percentage of Diethylene glycol monoethyl ethers, which is a solvent and used for the cleaning side of the product. I am not sure what affect it would have on undyed leather but would probably affect any oil or alcohol stains applied. Cya! Bob

Where are you located. That's critical as to what sells and what you can charge and how much passing trade. If you purchase inventory, then you can increase your margins to 35% and set up terms like 30 days to pay. You may also look at sposoring a local music session after hours which will attract customers for straps, etc. Sounds like fun challenging and don't forget to have a really professional website. Cya! Bob

I take my forms, sand and then rub with paraffin wax, then run a heat gun so the wax soaks into the wood. Both prevents water absorption, possibly promotes faster drying and also make removals easier. Last I install a screw in eye to allow easy removal and a hanging point for the drying rack. Cya!

BTW I only use headliner for gluing sued lining and Barge for all other gluing except for a few special jobs using water based cements. 73 W2PN

I use the headliner spray glue available from most automotive stores. It's expensive but easy to use and I have had no glue failures to date. Cya! Bob

Some contacts recommend bonding while both surfaces are still tacky while others, as Dwight mentions recommend dry. I did a repair yesterday with Weldwood which said dry to a glazed finish Not less than 15 minutes and not more than an hour. I use an automotive spray adhesive for gluing linings and they recommend tacky on both surfaces, Cya! Bob

Dakota, I use the same flexible cutting boars made out of thin polypropylene. One suggestion is to wipe them down with acetone or MEK to remove the mold release which makes it less slippery. In addition, I write all relevant information on the pattern plus a center line with alignment holes. Cya! Bob

Depends on what cement you are using... Cya! Bob

I am not at home or I'd test it first but if wet forming isn't sufficient, try "pasting" the flesh side with a standard water based wood glue. It is a service offered by some leaher suppliers. Cya! Bob

Thanks! Bought a small bottle of Weldwood at Home Depot and repairs completed. Thanks! Bob

Michael, that press is made to fit metric grommets, snaps, rivets, etc. You need to buy all this hardware from them (or many other online sources for he same press and dies). I already have thousands of SAE (non-metric) pieces of hardware )mostly Ohio Travel Bag) so I passed even with the very attractive pricing. I purchased this press some time ago and the above is INCORRECT! I use it exclusively for setting snaps and it works perfectly with BOTH Tandy's and the ones supplied by the distributor. The problem with the net is peoples opinions are not verified and turn into "Facts" Buy this press for any US made snaps. Cya! Bob

This is the one I purchased recently: https://goldstartool.com/Grommet_-and-_Snap_Press_Machine_-_One_Set_Of_Dies_-snaps-_buttons-_rivets.html All other international orders: Please send an email with SKU number(s), quantity needed and your exact shipping address to shipping@goldstartool.com and we will create a paypal invoice with your total. Shipping costs to overseas locations is determined strictly by weight, not the quantity of items ordered. Cya! Bob

I use mine exclusively for snaps and the dies work well with Tandy snaps or their own which I bought with the machine. Cya! Bob

Get a 2 ton or 3 ton Arbor Press. The additional pressure, and especially the extra working space over the 1/2 ton is a pleasure, making it faster to use and easier to line up stamps. You will need a steel plate to cover the die. I use a piece of granite as the base. Cya! Bob

I have a similar one, recommended on the forum which cost $59 with one die set and extras were reasonable. I am veryy happy with it. Cya! Bob

I am traveling on the east coast and 2500 miles from my Barge cement glue pot. My girlfriend's expensive boots has had the glue fail on both soles and I am wondering what the best off the shelf glue would be best. I want to use a contact cement and don't want to risk any adhesive oozing around the edge. I will probably purchase Weldwood contact if no one has a better suggestion. I could drive to Tandy but it is a bit far from where i am staying. Thanks! Bob

Not sure what pat of the world you are in. I'm currently in North Carolina and we have two sessions a week, same as Tucson, where I host one. I also play old time banjo and lots of jams here and Tucson as well. I shot this a couple of years ago. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xUMc8WIht4w Cya! Bob

Good point about the air bubbles. I occasionally use vinageroon and neutralize with baking soda and it is definitely CO2, not air I see. A test would be to soal the leather in water, drain and then apply the ammonia...bubbles = CO2 = PH Change. BTW I used to build bodhrans when I lived in Ireland. I buried the fresh skins in alum for a couple of weeks and the trick it to apply the wet skins to the rim. After drying once they are never the same. (I also play Irish tenor and and on my way to a session this afternoon) As for glues, try one of the polyurethanes, which is moisture activated. I have never used it on leather but I imagine it would work well for for certain applications, not as flexible as RTV but it will penetrate and expand. Cya! Bob

Usually drying wet formed products i the sun is no problem but every once in a while I have a larger order and it rains! I have a fron load tryer which came with a rack for drying objects like shoes. When sun drying mt items will reach 140F which I find ideal. I use the very low heat setting in the dryer and it works perfectly. Tiara: never use ammonia on leather!! Those bubbles you saw were a natural reaction to the acids in the leather which are critical for longevity. Cya! Bob

Sorry, missed that but I do find the 60" mat is a lot easier to use than 8 1/2". I have it attacked to a custom made table with shelves for leather storage underneath. Cya! Bob

http://hancockfabrics.com/cutting-mat-56-in.-x-33-in.-3546926.html Cya! Bob

My main "earners" come in 3 different widths and 3 different colors. I buy drum dyed hides which cuts a number of steps off the process. I offer lined, for an extra charge, or unlined f I offer customization in the form of a name or other stamp choices and choice of a few other items, at no charge. If I don't have a custom order I emboss which looks great but faster and time is money. I pre cut my leather when I receive my hides and will shortly have dies to reduce the production times. I can offer a 24 hour turn around, at an extra charge, easy because most of the time consuming work is already done, and I offer wholesale at 35% off retail. My typical wholesale order will run $1,000 or more. I will invest in anything I can use to maintain the hand made, high quality look and feel of the product and make them faster and cheaper. Cheaper = more profit. Some days I feel like I'm doing piecework in Mexico but never when I deposit the checks. I have been investigating dog collars for some time and I feel there is a market niche I could address. It does mean making off the shelf product for sale at shows, investing in the right equipment and coming up with a slightly better design than what's currently out there. In addition it will require investing in exhibit space at craft and dog events and having sufficient inventory. I hope this is helpful. Cya! Bob

I don't have the patience or whatever it takes to listen to the window shoppers.I'm going to just go for the premium and above customers. What you don't get is that a few of those window shopper are the premium customers.Every potential customer is gold and until you understand that you will fail. Good luck! Bob

First off I I think one has to decide whether one is in a hobby business or a real business. If you are just interested in making some money on the side or just breaking even, then blow off the business you don't like. Turn away customers who are looking for a deal (who isn't) and take it personally. If you are interested in having a business that also gives you the opportunity to be creative and artistic, then you need to develop products that are competitively priced, and quick and easy to produce. This involves investing in the production equipment required to produce high quality at lower than custom prices. I attend a lot of dog shows and that is an excellent venue for selling BOTH production collars and custom ones that will cost significantly more. Money is typically no object for those folks but an off the shelf collar or harness is a foot in the door. As for determining what a yet to be made product is worth to each individual customer..a fools errand IMHO. Best of luck! Bob

Spence, please elaborate a bit on your issues. What do you make, what market have you lost, what are your margins and how do you cost your overheads, time and materials. Sometimes charging more and selling less is a very good marketing strategy.. Cya! Bob