BDAZ

Sorry, I believe you are wrong. Regardless of any other registrations, he is allowed to use his own name for the business.I worked for a computer company co owned by a woman with the name of Ferrari. We used Italian Racing Red as our corporate colors and were in the same town as the local Ferrari dealership. Every now and then a cab load of Italians would show up on our doorstep. There was nothing they could do. Of course we were Ferrari Computers not ferrari Motors. What do you mean by taken? Taken locally, state wide taken nationally? There is a Johnson Leathers in San Francisco http://www.johnsonleather.com/ BUT no trademark for Johnson Leathers. I would not worry in the least about it. They specialize in motorcycle leathers for police. Cya! Bob

No legal issues if your name is Johnson. If you and your brother were in business you could call yourself Johnson and Johnson heh heh. No problem but it is easier to remember a simple short name and easier to fit a short web address on a stamp. Again, IMHO J.Johnson is slightly better than J.A. Johnson. That web site should read JAJLeather.com. JJleather.com is also a good one, such a good one that it's take.. Cya! Bob

Yup! Exactly. Again, having your web site address is a great plus. Phone numbers change faster than web addresses which are cheap. If you don't have one go to the many inexpensive services like Go Daddy and get a web site and put up a page with a phone number and e-mail contact. If it were me I'd have it say Johnson Leathers at the top and Tulsa, OK USA in the middle and www.jJAJleather.com (available) on the bottom. In fact, while I was writing this I received an order through my web site from someone that had seen one of my products and wanted one. Cya! Bob

I think you are confusing a makers mark with a cattle brand. What is the function of a makers mark??!! IMHO the mark in markers mark is marketing. I never know where our products will end up and who may see them. So my criterion for a mark is first the company name, then I include made in Arizona, USA because that adds cachet when selling overseas. Then I include my web site so the future looyloos or retail customers will be able to find our website and hopefully, order more product. May not be cute but why else have a makers mark if no one can find you unless it's an ego thing???? Cya! Bob

I use a blend of 50% bees wax and 50% paraffin wax which works well for me. Cya! Bob

I used to make bow strings and most of the wax is synthetic and designed for modern synthetic fibers. It's designed to hold the fibers together after the string is made. A small strip of leather is run up and down, like a slicker, to melt the wax and remove and excess. I wouldn't think it was a good alternative to bees wax for stitching and it's $$. Cya! bob

Do a search on You Tube for Cowboy 4500 and Cobra Class 4.. Cya! Bob

I own neither a Class 4 nor a 4500 Cya! Bob

First step is to decide if you are really a business or just a hobby trying to cover costs and expenses. If it's the later then make you own rules, cost you labor at $0 and have fun, AND have fun. My leather business is just the latest in a string of small manufacturing business stared over the years in in the chemical, scuba, computer and graphics industries. Business can be fun too but only if they make money or break even to gain market share. Losing money coupled with hard work is NOT fun in any industry. First off, I think the wastage numbers shown above are low. The analysis I have done shows a minimum of 35% wastage (assigning zero value to all scraps not used in production. Depending on the cut, I may go as high as 50%. How often to I cut a 2" strap which is 60" then use 42". The balance is scrap. I would never take a job for $15 and hour so why would I sell my time for less? I am able to multi task so I can step into my shop, say cut and glue some lining then back to my office and my other business so I can afford to work for less than if it was a full time career. Overheads are assigned based on square footage, with the leather shop 3 times the size of my office space but still cheaper than a stand alone business would have. For pricing, first I decide what market nice I am after. I research the available offerings, check the existing prices and see if I can produce a BETTER product for the same or up to 20% higher. If I can't, I don't go there. One last issue is marketing. What is your market? The guy that happens to drive by your house, happens to see your sign and happens to need a belt at the time and happens to have the time to stop or a market geographically more diverse supported by a killer web site, advertising and wholesale distributors and resellers motivated (by margin) to promote your products to their customers. Selling more results in economy of scale, lowering costs and making manufacturing more efficient. I am shipping a dozen similar items tomorrow, which took a lot less time to make, per item, than if I had a single order. I make less per item but 12 of my products in the market with my makers stamp are 12 more "promotions" for our products.Anyone who doesn't put a web site on their makers stamp is nuts, IMHO. To sum up, first do your market research, find out what price range you can sell similar products for and then work on your costing to see what your bottom line is and then investigate what it will take to reduce labor and materials costs. In my case, I have switched to drum dyed veg tan which is more expensive up front but saves me time and materials to make it cheaper than dying my own. I intially purchased a decent sewing machine at the git go because it was obvious hand stitching is for hobbyists and not commercially viable, unless you have leveraged that feature into significant money at retail. I used to work in the wine industry in California and the saying was that yo can always make a small fortune with a winery IF you start wit a big one, I think leather can be similar. Cya! Bob

Everyone has their favorite recommendation which is obviously the machine they own. That is called cognitive dissonance. However there are two highly recommended machines on this forum. The Cowboy 4500 and the Cobra Class 4.. Both are almost the identical machines with different paint and accessories. Call both companies and speak to Cowboy Bob or Cobra Steve as both are acknowledged as having excellent pre and after sales support. There are different packages on offer and shipping may be slightly more or less based on where you are, but either is your best solution. Cya! Bob

That IS useful! BTW my black Olfa blades arrived yesterday and I tested them agains the Stanley English blades. They claim to be twice as sharp as stainless blades but I couldn't tell..maybe marginally sharper. Both outperformed the Chinese blades. Cya! Bob

Another difference is the threading of the tension discs which are different directions than the Cowboy, they go through the guides twice as seen: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_OtfCvzm14A Threading starts at 3:14 The Cowboy starts at 1:00 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=boZOA4MTu2Y Interesting Cya! Bob..

I was looking at a couple of instructional videos, one on the Cowboy 4500 and the other on the Cobra Class 4. Both machines seem almost identical. I am guessing they are made in the same factory, but maybe not, What I found surprising was the threading instructions were totally different, almost opposite. For example Cobra bobbins are inserted with the thread running clockwise while the Cowboy using and identical bobbin goes counter clockwise. Is there a right and a wrong way to thread theses similar machines. What is the advantage of one over another? Thanks! Bob

Not going to happen on the black but here's a test I just did on the medium Brown. Cya! Bob

I use a large self healing 3'x5' cutting mat on my cutting table for long straight cuts, straps and other items that require long cuts. For trimming and complex cuts I use a Tandy ploy board at a different bench. For punching, I generally use my 2 ton arbor press and will use a poundo board or the poly board from Tandy on granite, depending on the size of the punch and the thickness of leather. I do use the marking on the mat all the time and will eventually rotate it 180 degrees and then flip it as it wears. Cya! Bob

Just a couple of comments. a should read "you did not create that are trade marked" There are millions of images and symbols that are royalty free. The other point is that the most likely response to a small maker pirating a logo would be a cease and desist letter. It costs both party's nothing and the problem goes away if the pirate is smart. Cya! Bob

I checked out Home Depot and to my surprise there were a number of high quality utility knife blades (not the break off blades) including some that were carbide coated and claimed to be 2 times sharper with 5 times the life. The Stanley break off blades were made in England. Cya! Bob

I have been primarily using black although I will be staring some brown items tomorrow, Her's a pic I just took of an item I am working on. Not sure what you mean by burnishing? Cya! Bob

Thanks! I'll check them out as well. Cya! Bob

I couldn't tell what wood it was but from the top it looked like a very old 21. I have a '63 D-28. Cya! Bob

I assume it's a D-21 in your strap pics? Cya! Bob

I have switched to drum dyed veg tan for all my production items. These items appear in the catalogs of my vendors so it's critical that the colors of an item I make next year is identical to the ones in the catalog. To that end I have limited my offerings to Black, brown and natural. The time and cost savings, in both dying and final finishing makes it well worth it. They tool and stamp beautifully. Cya! Bob

Colt, what year is your 21? Cya! Bob

I ordered 10 of the Black Olfa breakoff blades. They claim to be much sharber than the stainless blades as they are carbon steel. Sounds perfect! Thanks! Bob

I did a search first but couldn't find anything on blades. Thanks, I'll look again. Cya! Bob