BDAZ

First off I have already done the pot mod and replaced it with a 100K pot. I generally work on intricate pieces with some straight sewing and I like to work at 30 SPM for the intricate stuff and 80 SPM for straight line stitching, no faster. I want to be able to set my maximum speed for a piece leave it there, consequently the pedal is less important to me than the speed setting. Prior to the mod, only a fraction of a turn would take me from 0 to 80. Now it's half a revolution of the knob and the speed increase is gradual and repeatable. I have done the magnet mod and I suspect it may be problematic, reducing the amount of travel that triggers the transducer. Maybe my magnet is angled a bit too much but it ts definitely an improvement and could be incorporated in the manufacture of the arm, with a longer angled or tapered magnet since the transducer works on the strength of the flux. Cya! Bob

This is about more accurate maximum speed control. CYa! Bob

JoMamma, My motor has a 220K pot and not the multi resistor switch. Do you know what the value of yours is? It may be a lower value than mine? Thanks! Bob

Shep's distributed by Weaver, is actually made by PFAU. The MSDS of their neatsfoot oil lists NO petrochemicals: Mixture of variable composition of triglycerides and their components Neatsfoot oil is a yellow oil rendered and purified from the shin bones and feet (but not the hooves) of cattle. "Neat" in the oil's name comes from an old name for cattle. Neatsfoot oil is used as a conditioning, softening and preservative agent for leather. In the 18th century, Modern neatsfoot oil is still made from cattle-based products, but now, while retaining its historic name, usually is made mostly from lard,[1] which is sold as pure neatsfoot oil. I learned something this morning! Cya! Bob

Bob, I would liken this to adding a better sound system or maybe a GPS to a new car. It's not about looking different but about optimizing the performance of the motor for low speed operation. Once we determine what the optimum value for the potentiometer is, you could request the motor with a potentiometer (The speed control knob) with the appropriate value for leather work. The correct value should allow the speed control to go from minimum to maximum (the fastest speed a leather worker would want) with the complete turn of the dial. On my new 3200, from newbie slow to a controllable speed for belts was about 10% of the dial. The magnet mod is a bit more problematic and would take some retooling for the manufacturer but the change in values on the speed control is a no cost , no brainer. Cya! Bob.

I assume your switch is like this one with a number of resistors switched instead of a carbon /wiper or wound /wiper system? There should be some marking on the pot giving it's value. The stock pot on my 3200 was 200K. I think we have determined that the ideal pot would have an initial resistance of 10 ohms and then max out at around 50-100 ohms.for typical leather stitching. This should give you the full (around 340 degrees) range of the pot to control the maximum speed. The switched resistors that you have is a much more expensive potentiometer because each detente will give you a very accurate resistance and should be easily repeatable and could be calibrated. BUT if the behavior of the switch is too abrupt, going from slow to maximum, then a lower value pot would be called for. I just ordered a 50 ohm and a 20 ohm pot and will jumper a 10 ohm resistor so there wound be any significant dead space on pot and it will be in the best part of the curve. Cya! Bob

I assume that they buy standard industrial sewing machine motors and I would guess for every leather machine sold, there are dozens of industrial machines sold for the garment industry and similar high speed stitching. As to ordering the motor, this IS the motor from the 4500. I had no problem getting the machine to stitch slowly but I wanted to be able to get more of a range in the slow end but the option to gradually increase the speed when I have less complicated items to stitch. With the existing potentiometer, that was not possible, Just a touch and it was slow then another touch and it was fast. The two mods go a long way in optimizing the machine for slow stitching. While the magnet mod is a bit more work and a bit finicky, the pot mod is plug and play. When I finalize the values I'd be happy to make a plug and play mod available for a few bucks. The pot mod should take less than ten minutes. Cya! Bob

I was wondering what the threshold was set for. A 10K resistor in series with the pot should do the trick! Any issues with the magnet mod? Cya! Bob

Yup, Mod is for the FS-550. No specs on the pot other than log taper, carbon and counter clockwise. It's a drop in replacement for the supplied pot. I have ordered a 50K and 20K pot and will try both. I may even extend the jumpers and have the pot mounted on the table for easier access, The magnet mod is described earlier in this thread. Cya! Bob

I finally received my 100K log pots from China. The connectors arrived a week ago. I soldered the connector leads to the pot, plugged it into the board, reassembled the motor cover I was done. There was a noticeable improvement. The slow speed selection has much greater range than before. I would say 3 times the movement of the knob from just starting to move to around 1 stitch per second. Not a great as I had hoped BUT it will still reach stitching speeds higher than I will ever need. Next I will try lower resistance pots to increase the range. There is a threshold of minimum resistance when nothing happens. I am not sure if that is adjustable, but the new pot has to be turned a bit before the motor kicks in. In summary, well worth the couple of bucks spent and the few minutes involved but I suspect the lower value pots will bring a bigger improvement in low speed control. I will be trying the magnet mod once I finalize the replacement pot. Cya! Bob

Thanks. Two tips I use..If I want to trace I buy vellum, which is cheaper and traces more easily. I will also print the design in reverse at one or two pixels, place the printed side on the leather and rub the back with acetone. This transfers the toner to the leather. Cya! Bob

First and foremost a leather business is a business first and then about leather. If you don't know how to manage a business, then it's just a hobby that will cost you money. My advice is find a local business mentor. Check with the local chamber of commerce, as they often have incubator programs or even a local university or community college. Being in a leather business is about making products that will sell at a profit. Costing a product is critical and often things that are fun to make as a hobby won't work in a business model. Since you provide almost no information on your profile, I'm not going to waste anymore time on this thread, but there are various ways of finding a niche in your local markets. Cya! Bob

I thinking about the steel wool and cofee solution, I am assuming strong coffee is acidic and the acid is probably reacting with the ferric steel wool and producing a form of ferric acetate. I just saw a show on making Turkish carpets and they use crushed walnut shells to produce a brown dye. They boil the walnut shells and then use the liquid for a permanent dye. Crushed walnut shells are available at your local Pet's Mart and used for lizard and bird bedding. The shells in Turkey were ground quite fine. Cya! Bob

I tried that but it's not really accurate enough on my 3200. Cya! Bob

I have a Cowboy 3200 and one of my new products requires going from a longer decorative stitch to a shorter stitch for an inch or so and then back again. What is the best way to accurately move between 2 or even 3 stitch lengths? There is no scale and it seems stitch length adjustment is pretty haphazard. Thanks! Bob

Oh it really works great! I am very impressed with the finish it gives, especially when set out in the AZ sun for a while. I have a chemistry background and I'm going to do some testing. I did a lot of work in formulating soy solvents and I suspect the soy based petroleum jelly should be better for the leather than petro based jelly. Who knows? I'll call it Yankee! Cya! Bob

I just started using Aussie and checked the MSDS and it more like 70% Petrolium Jelly, 15% waxes and the rest a solvent. It's a lot of $$ for a tub of Vaseline??!! Cya! Bob

BTW what is the ACTUAL cost of the error. Assume you cut out the damage and then deduct the cost of the incorrect hides? Anyone with a modicum of business sense realized the value of a loyal customer and the profitability of repeat business. If I have to take a loss on an order in my other business because I or even my shipper screws up, it's just the cost of doing business. When you factor in advertising, rade shows, etc, the cost of a repeat customer is significant and no one will stay in business long (Comcast excepted) if they don't treat their customers like gold. Recently I bought an item from Amazon, a 2 ton arbor press. While they totally screwed up the delivery, was a week later than promised and it arrived a complete mess, they made good and the net result was the press was free. Will I buy from them again? Absolutely! Because I know that if they screw up, they will make it right. Cya!

IF The shipper paid the freight company then they are the only ones who can claim from the shipper. UPS likes to deny claims for any possible reason like poor packaging. As had been said, you contracted for x hides at x color and weight and it is the tanneries responsibility to deliver them to your door intact and as ordered. Do give them a reasonable time to respond to your documented issues (24-48 hours). I might suggest a 25% discount on the damaged leather and immediate replacement of the incorrect leather. If they want the wrong weight leather returned, they must issue a pickup with their carrier. You could be generous and let them know you won't charge them for packing up the incorrect weight hides. Give them an additional 24-48 hours to dispatch the new order or you will send them to credit card hell. And I agree that its not the time to release the name of the vendor. We all screw up but the measure of a good company is how they correct the screw ups and make the customer happy. Good luck! Bob

I believe Wyoming Slick posted some interesting links to the dangers of using saddle soap a few days ago. One of the issues is that it is very alkaline and will alter the PH of the leather. My question is; Will saddle soap neutralize vinegaroon eliminating the baking soda step with something more productive? Thanks! Bob

I picked up some Aussie at Tandy this morning. I first asked what they recommend for a natural finish and Aussie was unanimous. I picked up a can and used it on a prototype I am working on. It's baking in the sun but at first glance looks great! Thanks for the tip. Cya! Bob

I was able to play Sunday and I am heading out tonight. Carrying the instruments is tougher than playing! Great excuse for not carting PA equipment! I wonder how long I can milk it?! Thanks! Bob

No time to get to Tandy so I used Super Sheen and it did a good job. A bit too shiney for my taste but I am sue the customer will be happy. Thanks for the input. BTW I was wet forming a black case in the sun and measured the surface temperature...145F Cya! Bob

There's another chappie from Paarl on the forum as well. Dip dye some buffalo scraps and see if the white stuff appears. Then it's probably not salt which is not soluble in solvents Then dip in water. Either way I wouldn't trust it! Totsiens! Bob

The black wet formed leather can get pretty hot! Helps set it up and hardens really well. Cya! Bob