steveh

do you have some for sale

You could, be sure put a reserve on them , or a starting price you would accept. you could try here, or FB leather tool groups.

gtdewbre, well you know what you have in the Walter Fay tools, I would price them similar to what the hirer end custom tools are priced at , plus more since they obsolete and collectible. Just my thoughts.

The Walter Fay tools are obsolete, no longer made. He was a tool maker from sheridan Wy. His tools were made in Sheridan Style. It is hard to put a dollar value on them. They are are quality hand made tool that is collectable.

Well, I made that statement , on the 1st photo you posted of a Latigo carrier. I realize now that was not your saddle, and that you posted that regarding that the makers mark was similar to yours. Take a closer look at the makers mark in the center of the seat near the handhole. Can you make out where it was made? It looks pretty worn and hard to read.

Bona Allen is the maker, originally from Georgia, but yours was made in forth worth Texas. The date on the rigging Hardware is the patent date.

I think the earliest models were brown and and off white. I have one the same color as yours , and I was told it was made in 1980 by who I purchased it from. Yours was made in west germany so it had to be made before 1990.

Roy, is the splitter fixed blade or bandknife? Thsanks steve

Search Helmold,com Theymanufacuture the equipment your looking for.

micro round nose end mill , for a clean accurate tool

Hi, You mentioned pfaff machines in your post , the Pfaff 145 smaller bobbin, and the 545 and 1245 larger bobbins would be good choices.

Is this a high end polished linen? How is the thread gauged, like 4, 5 or 6 cord like domestic linen? thanks steve

needle size 190lr 18 and 16 are available . would be good with 69 and 46 thread

I have the John James harness needles which are blunt point, I questioned the sizing my self so I emailed them, They said the 1,2 3.and 4 are all the same size , she told me it had to do with international sales. The 1 thru 4 are the smallest needles, the size is list (mm) on there site. This is the needle I use, my package says 004 but it is a 4. I must tell you it is small and I taper the thread about 3inches back from the end, I wax with beeswax and some rosin melted in like 70/30 ratio not real exact but it makes a harder wax.I run the taper thru the eye and pull about 6 thru , that is it, I do not back the needle thru thread on this small of needle. I like this small needle as I can sew easier thru awl hole with out constriction. The other john james needles are as follows smaller to larger 18(1/0), 17(2/0), 16(3/0). 1/0 is a nice size if you find the others to small to your liking. Hope this helps clarify, there needle sizing is not real clear.

your linen thread sizes are referenced by (cord ) 6 being the heavier 3 being the lighter. 5 and 6 cord for harness and saddler, 3and 4 cord for purses wallets ect. As far as needles go depends on the manufacturer, I believe Osborne 000 are the heaviest, where as 0 and 1 are smaller. John James needles, I use 004 which is there smallest harness needle and I use 5 and 6 cord with this needle, I Like the smaller needle as I can pull thru the awl holes easier. I taper and wax the thread and I am able to thread the eye, I do not back weave thread thru it self as most do. You may want to try this with your number 2 john james. The 207 is a thread size reference for machine thread poly, nylon,ect. Machine threads go from the smallest 46,69 99,138,207,277,346,415, the largest. 207 is an med size used for belts and light weight tack. you can sew by hand with if you like but it is not as nice as linen.

Do you like the pfaff 1245? It is a very well built machine. Pfaff made 335 cylinder arm machine if you want a quality machine.

Your saddle looks like an early 1900 California type . Did a nice job with the serpitine border.Nice to see a traditional eight string loop seat. What is the name of the tree? Did you use and old tree or have a new one made? steve

I would not touch the stitch length / directional lever, if it set for six stitches per inch leave it there,stop the machine and move your work to the needle this will compensate for the stitch length. trying to compensate for stitch length by changing the lever would just be very difficult in my opinion. I may not be explaining it correctly, steve

most machines leave presser foot marks, use a smooth foot, polish the foot and grind sharp edges to a radius. lightly moisten your leather where the tracks are let it case a little them rub the tracks out with a rub stick.

I sew with a pfaff but this method, should work with your cobra. As you are sewing and approaching an up coming corner slow down to where your last stitch will be at the corner,stop the machine, let the needle come out of your work,and raise your presserfoot ,make a judgement if the last corner stitch will long or short, If to long move your work to exact location you want the corner stitch, and bring the needle down by palming the handwheel, now lower your presserfoot let needle go down in your work and come up about a 1/3 of travel, stop, release presserfoot, turn your work, and commence sewing. If your last stitch to the corner is to short, do essentially the same thing, stop raise presserfoot, again move your work to the exact location of the corner and align the needle, lower presserfoot, let the needle travel all the way down and 1/3 up, raise presser foot, turn your work, lower presser foot and continue sewing. hope this helps. steve

contact Barry king. Who was the original maker of the stamp?

The geometry of the awl forming the diamond is comprised of four 30 degree sides, as the radius tapers to the point it compounds from 0 to 10 degrees.Try to maintain these angles when sharpening, I touch up the awl with ceramic stone or high grit sand paper(600-1200) like CW mentioned. polishing on a felt wheel at 3600 rpm with no reguard for the edges could dull them. steve

Take a hard wood burnishing stick, or some polished plexiglass,lightly moisten the tracks with water,and rub them out with stick.

Ron, Could you please explain "starts at the top of the vinework and flows to the start of the vine" I am not clear on that? You have a flower and a stem that you build a scroll of vines most often in a circle. What do you mean by starting at "top" thank you, steve

Thank you for posting the link to the Russel catalog. Very interesting, The quality of the stamps is remarkable. I see in the catalog they refered to backgrounders,bar grounders and bevelers as sinkers. There dot sinker ( bar grounder) is priced at .25 cents, and a rope basket .35 cents . amazing. steve