Hilly

Coffee doesn't feel good coming out of your nose.

You can ask Mr. Santoro his secrets about making those exquisite Maverick bags, but I know the reply you'll get You are correct that you will learn a lot from the Stohlman "Cases" series. You will learn about making handles and strap keepers, and the proper way to attach them. Gussets, pockets, etc. Worth every dime, if you ask me. You will find yourself referring to them quite often. A good way to get a pattern is by making a pattern out of brown paper. Buy a roll of brown paper, and build a "bag" out of paper and tape. You can even go as far as drawing a tooling pattern right on the paper, if you wish. When you are satisfied with your paper pattern, take the paper pieces apart, and remake them out of stiffer materials. Just keep in mind the weights of the leathers you want to use for each piece, and write it down on the pattern pieces. My very best advice to you is this: Think things through thoroughly and very carefully beforehand, and during each step of the way. TAKE YOUR TIME, and enjoy the learning process. Measure 10 times and cut once! If you are unsure about something, try it on some scrap first, or ask questions here. Keep your pattern, because if something you make turns out well, chances are everyone you know will want one!

Nice work! My husband would insist it has enough room for reading materials, too!

Sorry, but latigo really does not lend itself to stamping. Yes, you could have the title laser engraved onto the cover. Another way might be to have the title tooled onto a piece of veg tan leather, and sewn on to the cover. You might also get a custom adornment of some kind made with the title on it, and have it attached to the journal. It all just depends on what you would be willing to invest? What about getting a metal oval engraved with the title on it (sort of like the brass ovals you find on a dog's collar that has his name on it), and have it riveted on? Good luck with whatever you decide to do.

Maybe you could have them lined with Kydex?

Wow, there's a lot going on there, and I like it all! Great job!

Reminds me of the "Borg" on Star Trek. "Resistance is futile!" "You will be assimilated!"

I would think that the one advantage to spraying is that you won't smear any antique around if your piece is tooled and antiqued. Never put anything thicker than milk through an airbrush.

Very nice holster. It's a shame that it has to stay concealed! Wish we had C.C. here in Wisconsin! Maybe when we get rid of our present governor...

I'm not an expert at anything, but here's my take: A pricking chisel is normally not used to pierce the leather, but simply to mark the location and angle of where the awl is to pierce the leather. I have never heard of a pricking wheel, but imagine it would be used in the same fashion. Overstitch wheel is used to mark location of stitches. They are also sometimes used after stitching to help the new stitches lay nicer and appear more even.

I agree with you, Bruce. The ones sold at Tandy are very small! I got some #35 from Barry King, and they are perfect size for almost everything smaller than a saddle.

Never tried a spray bottle like that. I don't know if you can get "Prevail Sprayers" where you are, but they are cheap, and use small cans of air as propellant. They work pretty well for smaller projects.

http://images.google.com/images?hl=en&rlz=&=&q=turkey&um=1&ie=UTF-8&sa=N&tab=wi 45,800,000 images to choose from.

The Leather Crafters and Saddlers Journal has exercises called "swivel knife finesse" in each issue. Paul Burnett offers lots of little exercises on using your swivel knife.

I don't think I'd dampen the leather; it might stretch during cutting. You can use a utility knife to cut any leather as long as the blade is very sharp. It may take multiple passes... If you are using light weight leather, such as calf or even 4-5 oz., you could probably use a good scissors. What are you making using these shapes?

If you want a really nice awl, call Bob Douglas 307-737-2222. You won't be disappointed

You could use the Osborne chisel, or you could buy a less expensive diamond hole punch from Tandy. This produces about 7 stitches per inch.

Chances are your awl blade is dull. Unless you buy from sources other than Tandy, the blades need a good tune-up straight from the box. Try sharpening the blade, and once it's sharp, stick the tip into a block of beeswax often while you stitch. It helps the blade to pierce and pass through the leather easier. It also helps to strop your awl periodically. I also wonder if using a firmer leather would make stitching easier? . Also, I hope you don't plan on making any holsters out of belly leather... you won't be happy. Belly is very, VERY sssstrrrreeeetchyyyyy! You can use belly for practice stitching, carving or stamping, or for very small items, such as rounders or key fobs or hair barrettes, and things that don't take a lot of abuse.

Have you tried using a sewing needle to clean out the threads? I've used this method with some success. Stuff the sewing needle in as far as you can, and carefully follow the threads out with the point of the needle. Try it a few times to see if it helps. Sometimes it grabs the little piece of lace left inside the perma lock.

Almost there. Now take the leaf directly left of your stem and bring it to the main vine, and either bring it outside, or tuck it under (study the flower in my tutorial). The way you have your vine right now is reminiscent of a coil, not a circle. The way you have some of your little stickers ending in scrolls is unique. I like it a lot.

Your spur straps look great to me! Love the color and the initials.

Looks to me like the strap attachment was sewn straight across. This would cause a perforated line, like there is on a postage stamp. Makes for a nice, clean tear! If I was the one that made that purse, I would have stitched about 1/8" inside the contour of the attachment, and/or used rivets to attach it to the purse body. I'm sure there are more than one way to skin a cat, though. I'll be interested to hear what others have to say.

I think some people interpret things differently than others. I always see figure eights. One circle (or vine) spinning clockwise, the next spinning counterclockwise. The flowers themselves may appear at any angle within the circle, as long as the vines and stems spin opposite directions from adjoining one. Sometimes I forgo a flower, and stick in a large leaf or two within the vine swirl. Empty areas can be filled with scrolls, buds or acanthus leaf. One of the ideas behind a lot of Sheridan work is to leave as little background area as possible, but this is not necessarily always the case. I also feel that the more texture there is within each separate flower and vine, the more interest it has for the viewer. I commonly use lined thumbprints, interesting veiners or wigglers, flower center shaders, leaf liners, varied flower centers, cam tools and deco cuts to add interest. Also, balance in the design itself is important. I just wish I didn't have so much trouble drawing my own designs. It sounds easy, but to me it is not easy. I might work on a new design for weeks before I feel it looks okay. Maybe I'm too critical. Anyway, I hope someone can get something out of my little tutorial.

Here's my take on drawing a Sheridan flower. Others may do it differently than I do, and my drawing kinda sucks, but hopefully you will get the idea.... Step one: Step two: Step three: Step four: Step five: This is just a basic Sheridan flower. Joining two or more together is difficult to explain... If anyone else has something to add, please feel free!

Jeremiah Watt makes a push type beveler with a little wheel that rolls along (straight lines), and makes a checkered impression somewhat like a checkered beveler. Otherwise, I have a push beveler that I don't like and never use. You are welcome to it for the price of shipping. Let me know.