Hi Im Joe

Usually you glue along the edge and then stitch it in.

Hi guys and gals, Here's some recent stuff I've completed. First is another messenger black out of black Horween Essex. I used a different method to attach the straps. They are now removable as well. I also doubled up both straps and stitched them. Holy Good God it took forever. But it looks nice so.... Second is a minimalist wallet out of cognac Horween Essex. I made this for my good friend (his wife commissioned it for their 3rd anniversary). The divider in the middle provides two inner pockets for more cards (I stole the idea from Teranishi as his stuff is awesome). Third is a square 3 pocket bi-fold out of toasted walnut Horween latigo. I stitched all around the wallet for the first time. I think it gives a nice finished look. Fourth is a rounded 5 pocket bi-fold also out of toasted walnut. I really like this wallet design and think its an overall solid wallet. I did however switch up the stitching and used .030 maine thread in natural (which is more white than I expected) and stitched it at 6.5 sti. Finally I decided to try a tooled trucker style wallet out of some Hermann Oak I recently bought off the forum. I lined the middle with some fabric. This is the first time I've lined a wallet. This is also the first time I have done any significant amount of tooling. The tooling sucks. I need to have way more patience. I tooled it while it was still too wet and then didn't wait long enough for it to dry before gluing the liner on. It was a good learning experience and I plan to experiment some more. Thanks a lot for looking and I look forward to hearing what you think is good and what you think I could improve on! Joe

Those are really nice. Btw...that facebook page is NSFW. Just a heads up.

Some of arthur porter's youtube videos show how he does pockets for bags with a zipper. I think it would basically be the same method just a smaller scale.

I know wickett & craig offer a splitting service but not sure about RJF.

Uhhh...can't really help you there. I'm just not sure.

That's good!

https://hidehouse.com/products/index.html?Category=HBAG&Product_ID=724 That looks nice.

Out of curiosity...why no glue?

Well smell is subjective but I love the smell of veg tan leather so....I'm not sure. I would be wondering why my leather smelled "bad."

I use saddle soap first and then wax. White Fiebing's Saddle Soap is amazing stuff.

It reminds me of a church window for some reason.

It is easy to think of thin leather as soft and thick leather as firm but it really depends on how the leather is processed. Milled or buffed leather or tumbled leather will always have a softer temper. They basically just beat up the leather in a controlled manner (at least for tumbled leather) and that results in a soft feel. On the other hand straight veg tan tooling leather will have a very firm temper no matter what thickness it is. Really, its just the quality of the leather (also known as the grade of the leather) that will help determine the quality of the flesh side. Crappy leather will have really hairy flesh sides. That's not to say you can't find cheap quality leather. Its out there you just gotta be diligent in your search. I don't know of any cow hide equivalent to shell cordovan. For UK leather suppliers I would use A. and A. Crack if I lived in the UK (http://www.aacrack.co.uk/catalogue.asp?page=home). Their selection is just insane. Or for some very nice oak bark tanned leather there is J&FJ Baker & Co (http://www.jfjbaker.co.uk/). Hope that helps! -- Joe

In the wallet example posted I think it would work a lot better with fabric pockets instead of leather. Leather would get pretty bulky unless you used something like pig splits or goat.

So I got lucky! My father in-law is an aircraft assembler for GE. A co-worker of his rebuilds and services sewing machines as a hobby. Its a small world. He is going to come over and check things out for me. So now all I gotta do is wait. As far as the capacitor...I ended up re-wiring most of the electric as it was old and ratty. So it should be good. "Should"

My sister in law confirmed for me its the timing. The hook is literally 180 degrees off from where it should be. When the needle is at its lowest point the hook is on the opposite side from the needle. btw...I don't see a video in your post. Right now I am just focused on why the hook won't take up the thread. If I fix that issue I think I'll be good to actually sew something. Or try to sew something!

That's very helpful! I'm just not sure if that's my problem or not. It seems like the needle and hook will not meet up correctly. But I guess I should take some stuff apart to see if the bobbin assembly is full of junk.

I'm pretty sure it's a timing issue. I handcranked it through a couple cycles and the hook is missing the thread on the needle. It's already past the rotation by the time the needle comes down. Anyone have a tutorial or a source on how to adjust the timing on the machine?

HAHAHAHAHA....that's good to know. Goes to show you I know literally nothing. Thanks for the heads up.

Thank you man. You are super helpful. Fortunately, my sister in law is a seamstress so I have her coming over tonight (keeping my fingers crossed) to help me try to figure this out. I know she's never worked on "industrial" or walking foot machines but at least she has experience with other machines.

What exactly is the scarf? Yes the needle is threaded from left to right. I think the tab you are talking about is there and in the correct position. The assembly look clean of stuff but I haven't taken it all apart to truly know. I think it seems like a timing issue. One thing though when I put the bobbin in the hook just will not grab the thread. Its turning but it just passes under the thread without ever touching it.

Yeah I have it threaded in the way the manual indicates.

Hey guys, I cannot seem to get the hook to take up the bobbin thread. It just spins around. I've tried searching but can't really find a tutorial for the Adler 67. Anybody have any ideas? How do I troubleshoot this? Thanks, Joe

So I am going to need to re-wire the motor. I broke the switch in transit. So I'm off to get a new switch and power cord. There is a large capacitor in the switch box currently. It looks pretty old and beat up. Can I get a replacement? Should it be from Singer or can it be any capacitor? Do I actually need the capacitor? Thanks again for all your help guys and gals.