Hi Im Joe

Do you stitch over the tape? I feel like if I tried to tape down a turned edge I wouldn't have enough meat for the tape to stick to.

C.S. Osborne makes nice dividers.

I got it up and running. It works! Now I just have to practice....a lot. I'll need to get some type of servo motor as well because right now the two speed options are hand cranked or uncontrollable.

Saddle Tan is rough man. It's by the far for me the hardest to get even. Especially if you are trying to get a light colored saddle tan. Most of the time I have to keep adding coats until it's pretty dark in order to get it even.

I see what you are saying. The wallet in the fourth picture...the stitching along the top was through just one layer of leather so I had to go light on the tension to not wrinkle the edge. But to compensate I probably should of drove the chisel deeper through the leather to make a bigger hole. The wallet you like the stitching on is stitched at a higher sti with a thinner thread.

Thanks man! I've read a lot of threads on here about sewing machines and you offer great advice in them all. Thanks for taking the time to educate a noob.

Thanks for the tips! It is totally uncontrollable now. I'll have to take a look and see if I can adjust the brake. The motor is a Singer S-463161. Here's a photo: alackofcolor@gmail.com

That's a freakin great idea. Definitely doing something like that. Btw...I got it working again. Phew.

So I tried to re-thread the thing and now I can't get the hook to take up the thread again. God its frustrating.

Thanks everyone! I have a lot to think about. Trox: I will adjust the pedal. I love going barefoot so taking my shoes off is the best news I've heard so far! The thing goes so fast I don't think I could brake it to slow it down. It would just keep on going like crazy. Maybe I am just afraid of it. But I don't think I could slow it down with my hand. Right now the most successful method is to slip the clutch and hand crank the wheel.

Yeah I can use the clutch. It's really the only way to do any detail type work. Its hand cranked or full bore. I want to figure out a better way to control the speed for safety's sake. I don't want a slip of my foot to result in sewing through my hand.

Yeah, I think that's my eventual plan. My budget is just non-existent right now.

You could do a box or butt stitch. Nigel Armitage has a video on box stitching.

Man they don't make stuff like that anymore. That is super cool. Sorry I can't help you with any info...just wanted to stop by and show my appreciation.

Hello guys and gals, My father-in-law has a co-worker who services sewing machines as a hobby. I got the adler 67 up and running. My main concern now is the speed it runs at. It's either hand cranked or just full bore insane. What are some cost effective ways to slow the thing down to a manageable level? Are there speed reducer's available? Are they worth the investment or should I just bite the bullet and buy a servo motor? Anybody have any DIY ideas as a stop gap measure while I get my funding in order to do it right? Thanks again so much for sharing your expertise with me! Joe

Good luck!

The best way I have found for the t pockets is to cut the tabs 5/8ths of an inch down from the top and 3/8ths of an inch in from the sides. Make a pattern out of some cardstock and then trace it onto your pockets then cut it out.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/C-S-Osborne-Splitting-Machine-Skiver-Osborne-86A-Leather-Splitting-Machine-/111398444291?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19efdd5d03 I found this on ebay. I have no clue if it really splits and skives but the listing says it does both.

Those really really nice! One thing I would change is I would make the taller pockets on the card wallets t-shaped. This will reduce the overall thickness of the wallet. Just search for ducjecs bi-fold pattern instructional and you will see what I'm talking about.

The 4th picture is the minimalist wallet with the J&M burned on? That is stitched at 5 sti with .040 Maine thread. Its the same size and sti as the messenger bag. All the items are stitched this way except for the 5 pocket bi-fold and the Trucker Wallet. The 5 pocket bi-fold is stitched at 6.5 sti with .030 Maine Thread. The trucker is 5 sti but I used 1.0mm Tejas thread from Tandy.

I believe we are going to see a resurgence in handcrafted leather goods and handcrafted goods in general. There is a lot of pushback against big generic products and a lot of consumers really want something that is made locally or by hand. I have been to some maker fairs and have seen just a wealth of people making all kinds of stuff. There are a bunch of young leatherworkers out there making great stuff. Look at guys like Barrett Alley, Blackacre, Teranishi etc...Also, look at guys like Ducjecs from Guarded Goods, the Hand & Sew Guy, etc. etc.

Thanks Bill! Yeah the trucker wallet was way out in left field for me. But it was a good learning experience. If I was to do it right I would want to buy a couple tools. First, I would cut out the bill slot and card slots as rectangles and then use a round punch to make the ends nice and even. I would also buy a drill press or hand burnisher with a pointy tip so I could get to all the inside edges. Your point about stitching across the tab is valid. I think I could easily have riveted it on. The reason I used the wrong setter for the rivets is it was a choice between marking the leather and marking the rivet. The rivets were just tall enough and had I used the larger setter it would have dug into the leather. Originally I wanted to use snaps for the corers to keep the wallet closed. I think my layout lines were much straighter than my tooled borders! LOL. I am practicing by making some wristband cuffs with bastketweave and serpentine stamps. I'm getting better. Once I feel up to par I'll take another shot at the wallet.

Dude that's a great idea!

No I glued it in. I like that idea. I need to try it out. Using glue is pain in the ass.

I owe my brother in law a guitar strap. I am waiting until I get this Adler 67 I just bought up and running before I make it for him...or my hands will just flat out revolt. It is a pattern from Nigel Armitage. I just modified it to take d-ring strap attachments and a detachable strap. Also, to slim down the profile I put a flat pocket inside the bag (his pattern calls for a full sized inside pocket that is caught up in the edge stitching). Edit: I also shortened the front flap. In his pattern the flap is much longer.