pete

thanks so much. The key seems to be starting the opposite row from the top down and not from the bottom up! pete

can someone explain the correct "spacing" for making a rope border with an F971 pointed figure tool. I have played with it for months! Sometimes it come out great and other times they don't line up, are too narrow, overlap etc. I have experimented with my dividers and angles, and can't seem to make it consistent. I go down one side of the cut and stamp as consistently as possible, turn it over and do the other row. I've tried staggering the strikes as well as centering and slightly off-centering. NOTHING seems to be consistent! I've tried narrow borders and wider ones. The only good thing about the wider( than the tool) border is that the "crossovers" don't seem to show as badly. I did do a complete rope border around a wallet once and it turned out (lined up) perfectly, but I can't re-create what I did for some reason pete

learn to saddle stitch. It's easy to splice, it's clean, and you won't have that problem of running out and ruining the piece if you are short. No way of fixing your method- as you have experienced.

any pictures!!!!!

you might think twice about casters if you are going to do any pounding. You won't get a solid hit.

I have one too. Best thing I have in the shop. Regarding the holes, the first thing that I did was to take clear shelf paper(sticky) and cover the entire bench. It protects the wood from dye,stains, etc and covers the holes, and makes a nice smooth, clean surface to work on.

nice work, As usual Chief! what color dye, and did you airbrush or dauber it? pete

I have 4 dvd's for sale. Sheridan Style carving- Jim Linnell Drawing Sheridan Style Patterns- Chan Geer Making a Sheridan Notebook- Chan Geer Dying and Finishing- Geo. Hurst $12/each -Ill pay shipping $40 all 4 Ill pay shipping Send a check (or cash) and I'm good. I trust you folks and you'll hear about it if it bounces!!! send a pm pete

did you tool the basketweave or is that a stamp?

when making belts- I tale the cut off and tool it too. Put a tip on it and you have a really nice sample to tale to shows, Same pattern and finish job.

wow! you are light years ahead of many if you have been at it for 1 week. you have a great future at this rate. pete

edge like you would a belt, but and then cut it to size. Maybe do a long strip say 10" long. Easier to work with.

pictures??????

I REALLY like your flowers- I have seen enough of your past work to know that they are original designs. I like the stem after the brand too. Really finishes it well! pete

Welcome! Nice work for your first tries! where are you? I'm in Mt. Home. pete

i like the tear drop shape to the holes! what did you use?

If it's not staying shut because the register and checkbook meet at the fold with no"slack" then there's not a lot you can do about it other than to cut off the bottoms so they sit deeper. If it's a breaking in as you suggested, simply wet the inside with water and fold and put a book on it overnight. It will adjust itself. My thinking is that you lined it flat and didn't take the "curve" into consideration. The pigskin doesn't stretch. pete

I would really appreciate it! Send me a pm and well settle up! Thanks so much Pete

Try as I have- I went ahead and bought a 3/8" straight blade after using a 1/4 ceramic angled for over 20 years. I was convinced by a number of masters here that I should take the plunge and learn how to use one. I really tried, but can't get the turns and curves that I want without undercutting or "scraping" the surface when I make turns. I would love a steel blade of quality but want a straight 1/4 (or hollow ground if they even make one) Anyone have one that they would trade for a sharp, Jesse Smith hollow ground 3/8??????? PLEEEEEZE I will pay postage if that's a concern- can't be a buck or two at the most. Please rsvp pete

I'm curious. Never made a rope can (but have been through a few) What do you charge for something like that...1 order, not 5-6.. pete

really neat design. How does one brogue? pete

unless it's a really valuable instrument, there's nothing that says that you can't drill a hole and put a(standard) guitar button on it. Same with the neck. I've done it to my mandolins- 2 are valuable pieces and I don't want to sell them. I use hem too much! pete

Just wet it again until it blends in again and let it dry out, or, case it all over and continue. Pete

you can't go wrong with head covers for his woods. Nothing fancy, but just a tube shape will be the best. Fitted are a pain and unnecessary. They are considered "old fashioned" but if you try to get them now they are VERY costly as only a few companies still make them and they charge an arm and a leg for them. Herrington, Orvis, etc have them sometimes but they can run $200-$400 for a set of 4! Use chap or garment leather and I think that you will be all in for around $50.00 and your time. pete

My partner uses a laser to cut all my pieces for wallets, purses, etc. I leave it until the end. then I take a damp sponge and just wipe off the charring. Rub in saddle soap(dry glycerine bar) and burnish. The smell is gone and I couldn't get a better edge if I tried to edge, rub,etc... I get a perfect edge that's shiny and slick. Th laser does a better job than when I used to sand it. pete