Hockeymender

That’s something I was wondering about. I have another set of binder feet (including the throat plate) and I will try those and see if there are any changes good or bad.

The bind occurs when the machine is set for the highest lift, stitch length does not seem to factor in. Even when the lowest lift setting is used there is a very slight bind, but you could almost miss it.

I have spent the last hour trying to upload a video I shot on my iPad Pro of this problem, but I’m having about the same luck with that as I am the 335. It’s the old casting BTW..

My 335 that is a dedicated binder has a problem I can’t get solved. When the needle enters the feed dog and the inner presser foot starts it’s rearward motion there is a terrific “bind” that occurs that even produces a groan out of the machine. This has its roots in the lifting motion of the outer presser foot. With the outer presser foot up, there is no problem cycles smooth as butter. Drop the outer presser foot and the trouble is there. I was advised the presser foot bar may be bent, so I replaced that, no joy. I have spent countless hours trying to get this sorted. Any and all help welcome

After a lengthy conversation (and pictures sent via text) with the most knowledgeable sewing machine mechanic I know, I have gleaned this information. He stated the best way to time a zig zag machine is to set the stitch width where it will be used most of the time. Place the needle at BDC on the left side, and raise it the specified distance. Then set the hook in a slightly advanced position to the needle. This may require some fine tuning, but in his opinion is the best method to time a standard type of zig zag machine. This lines up pretty well with what Uwe said several posts up. Hope this will be of help to someone.

After spending more time with this machine, these are my findings: The only way I could get it to sew was if it was timed with the needle in the center position. I did have to adjust the needle height a bit (as stated by Constabulary). I also had to adjust the needle bar frame. Just for informational purposes, I timed the needle in both the left and right positions and though the needle will pick up the bobbin thread it will only sew a straight stitch not a zig zag. So (at least for this particular machine) it appears the timing is best done with the needle centered (both in the needle bar frame and set for straight stitch) and attention must be paid to where the point of the hook falls on the needle scarf. After these items were attended to the machine is sewing very well.

I did refer to that manual, however as Uwe points out there is no reference to the zig zag position when setting the hook to the needle. Uwe thanks very much for the in-depth look at the workings of the needle/hook. I will use that as a reference and see how that approach works on this machine. It sews ok, but it just does not seem to be “spot on” and that’s what I’m trying to achieve. Anyone else that has zig zag hook/needle timing experience feel free to chime in.

I would like to get some input regarding the timing of zig zag machines (Singer 143W3 in particular). In the past I have been told that to set the timing the zig zag should be set to its widest stitch, and the hook timed to the needle based on a specified rise on the left stroke. I have also heard that the needle should be set in its center position and timed from there. So....what say the gurus here??

I have purchased quite a bit of leather from them. The quality is outstanding. Orders usually take two-three days to process. The email communication is good, they advise when the order processes, and provide a tracking number.

No....not everyone. I use TriFlow on my machines and have for years. Works great in all my machines and I like it's properties.

You might want to post this in the "used" section of items for sale, may get more interested looks.

Using a needle positioner should be dictated by the work being done. I have them on all my machines and really could not get along very well without them. I sew at very slow speeds, but the work is very precise and the positioner is a great help in maintaining things where I need them to be as I stop and go. Not having to be concerned about where the needle will be when I stop sewing allows me to be fully focused on the work and not the operation of the machine. Just my .02 cents.

TTT

I've had excellent results using Tennessee Attachment. Terrific work in a very timely manner. Prices in line with the going rate. And, this was a big thing with me, they stand behind their work. I had a problem with one of the binders they made for me, I sent it back and it was corrected no questions asked.

Quality of materials, fit, finish and the way it secures to the machine

I have to concur with Uwe on this one. I have eight different machines in my shop and each one is set up and adjusted to do a specific task. Things can go very badly, very quickly if I try to make a machine do something it's not suited for (or set up to do). All that said, it has taken many years to acquire the machines and the knowledge/experience to accomplish what I'm able to at this point in time. Trying to come up with one machine to do it all will lead to much frustration. Just my 2 cents.

LOL I like that....."resting".

https://www.dapamerica.com/ That where I've ordered quite a few Pfaff parts from. They have access to the parts in Germany.

Very nice machine cover! I have them for all my machines but I guess I'm too lazy to put them on when I'm closing up shop.

May be able to arrange, however buyer assumes cost for all crateing and shipping charges.

Need this gone....all reasonable offers considered.

Just to throw in my .02 cents worth:

TTT

I will make a point of shooting a vid of it sewing in a skate tongue. Very excited to be able to offer this service.

Thanks for all the kind words.....I am very fortunate to have this in my shop!