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gordond

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Everything posted by gordond

  1. Thanks..nice work yourself. Yes .. upholstery grade material....forgot myself that jacket lining is also a viable material... The lining I mentioned from days of old "apparently" was far superior than that ... specific to bags and wallets (possibly salesman double talk..lol!) Back to the OP's question..guess it comes down to a variety of considerations... The lining has to last and in many cases is easily cleaned.. doesn't fray or damage in higher wear areas..etc... Then as said ..we get into french edges ..and skiving folding etc..a lot of options. but as you said simply folding the fabric over and sewing could suit. Or alternatively binding (meh - never liked that - but have done in a few cases).
  2. As said .. considerations for function and aesthetics..... Bag shown here had to carry vinyl album covers (utterly packed) internationally to a crowded music festival(s) - for autograph hunting. I did very well (the bag certainly helped ).. The lining had to be slick to get these covers out really fast without damage (microseconds to get said autographs ..lol!).. rolled edges aid to that also. Plus a liner was required to cover the plugged embossed facia.. lining here is 0.5mm thin goat (upholstery refinish dye/acrylic) --- simply spray glued on. .Included is a inner hardboard (Masonite) "box" lined with soft nylon plush to hold the bag "square" ...think this plush was used for covering commercial wall partitions - cube farm office (Nb :for those who have seen this bag..I had to strip the top finish as it had denatured and started to get quite smelly .. hence some acrylic came away with it ..not a biggie to fix) Now ..going down that lining path can be eye opening and wallet emptying!.. many decades ago I started with clutch purses .. click close/ framed, lined .. the lining stumped me .. finally tracked the "right" stuff - I'm talking about competing with top boutique brands here..great ..but potentially had to buy the whole roll.. (equivalent to 2 weeks wages at that time).. it definitely was a specific nylon(?) fabric designed for long life, good domestic abrasion resistance... Actually need to track down more .. anyone care to pitch some suggestions or some real specifics would be appreciated.
  3. Very sad...visited him several years ago and he was kind enough to show me through the 4 stories of the Keystone business and photograph machinery for my restoration projects... ...and doubly sad to hear that Gregg's dad Lenny (and Mom) passed also - Lenny was also kind enough to discuss the idiosyncrasies of bygone machinery some years prior to me visiting Philly..that knowledge alone is irreplaceable. Rest in peace Gregg
  4. Another view ..updated with new power train- 750w servo and speed reducer....new thread path set up etc Runs and sews nicely.
  5. Try contacting this forum member.. they may some pointers.... I'm still deliberating over motor powering one of mine.
  6. Ken and Barby holsters?!.. But hey - it's cute! I want one to replace my Hello Kitty machine that I lost
  7. Yes.... had to blend a custom green (dark green/charcoal/silver/gold) for an Adler (no colour range available in NZ) ... It sprayed somewhat flat - very low hammer effect... and the silver dominated the tone. So brush stippled instead - contrast toning - green/silver & the hammer effect was much better. But it is tricky stuff to blend on the workbench. Photo below looks grey, but the Adler is quite a reasonable green colour match.. (indoor lighting .. night time). 2nd photo ..spray finish out of the can ..onto a bare metal restored 3n1. (again lighting not great)
  8. err..just stumbled across your post.. I have both mags...let me know if you still need these article images. I'll send you a copy. (I have a full set of the range from Leather craftsman vol 1.1 to present day)
  9. You're welcome. Not knowing what machinery you have - it still may be cost effective to ship the machine heads minus table/ 110Vmotor systems.. tables and 220Vmotors are reasonably easy to obtain - some parts used to be a bit more pricier than the US...but that has improved ... Freight costs though have got worse this year coupled with stock shortages eg/. 750W servo @ NZD $250 SR-2 speed reducer ~ NZD $330 (~USD$150 -180 to buy in the US -).... Another point that maybe helpful is the NZ Post Office hosts a mail resending service with addresses in the US and UK.They have just announced a US sea freight option where non airfreight items such as paint..dye can be shipped to NZ. But the freight prices for say leather are a bit prohibitive from either the US or UK. I am looking though at importing some Orion dyes and paste waxes for dyeing a bag load of ostrich leg leather crust (land/sea freight only) https://www.nzpost.co.nz/tools/youshop What machinery do you have?
  10. Hi.. Most of the suppliers are based in Auckland Leather/tools https://lapco.co.nz/ https://www.gdltradingnz.co.nz/ ............... Leather https://nzlsl.co.nz/ https://www.italianleather.co.nz/ ................ Leather machinery..sewing needles err...myself..lol! https://www.sewingtime.co.nz/ https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/marketplace/stores/AUCKLAND-SEWING-LTD Auckland Sewing carries/supplies Cowboy sewing machines..other leather machinery ..servo motors..etc. https://www.directsewing.co.nz/ Direct Sewing carries Juki and Zoje sewing machines...servo motors...etc ................ Specialist Footwear supplies. https://www.texonnz.com/ Main agent for Groz Beckert sewing needles .............. That being said I do import items that will never be carried here... (Direct..ebay.. aliexpress) or our local "ebay" https://www.trademe.co.nz And also something to note is the New Zealand leather artisans association http://nzleatherartisans.co.nz/
  11. Here's my Adler 30-1 stand ..(bare metal restore) Servo motorised ..head out in the shop as I'm building a table for it.. Hammer finish paint ..but I can't get a variety of shades in NZ anymore. I had to resort to blending the colour.. a little too green and another issue with blending - it can lose the hammer finish..trick to get that back was to over stipple with a coarse brush..there should be a variety of shades in the US
  12. Thanks Jimi.. Forgot about Smithsonian.. Found a few pictures online of threaded machines that solves the issue. Cheers
  13. Hi Jimi Sent yesterday but ? Tried again just now and got this "Jimi cannot receive messages"
  14. Same question re: W&G Straw hat machines ..was meaning to ask but didn't want to clutter forum with non leather machines.... Not my interest as many know..this was thrown in with a sale -free - broken ...but just a bent needle bar...just need parts/schematic and threading diagram (other's have different tension loop set up).
  15. I am going to contact them in due course.. good advice on the appropriate needle vs thread type - that's what I was looking for (& suspected) ..thanks Wiz
  16. Hi all I have finally set up a new power train on my Campbell Randall (750 servo + speed reducer)..control and stitching all good. But the previous owner only stitched with fine thread (looks like a 207 - non bonded poly - he ran it through lube)... and only needles supplied with this machine are 0.5 with a limited amount of 1.5 awls (have a range of awls in different forms/sizes - blade forms to 3.5 chisel points).. So seemingly straight forward when I checked my manual to select the correct needle/awl/thread size..am I correct in assuming that a 5 cord thread (346) needs a size 1.5 needle with size 2.0 to a size 2.5 awl ? I am considering using linen (left twist) - up to 346 ... but already have a good quantity of bonded polyester (207 to 346)... would appreciate opinions of polyester vs linen in this machine and appropriate needle/awl. Thanks
  17. Thanks very much All for the compliments Having issues with the gallery function on the forum was hoping to post more photos there before I replied here .. I think the admins are quite busy with certificate issues. (error ext 1064) ...I probably broke it?!! Background on this project : an icebreaker on many levels. I haven't carved leather for a few years and no Embossing in over 30 years (even then just a one off and a very small job). this was test of my own and machinery capabilities... Well sure did identify the gaps between imagined vs reality - lol! Biggest one - I need a bigger workshop! (plus sharpen everything..repair this that and also everything else..lol!) The other unexpected icebreaker was the reaction to this bag by some famous musicians in my autograph quest..... "wow - what's that!".. certainly had some entertaining discussions.
  18. Album cover bag ... made recently and taken on board this year's "Cruise to the Edge" - autograph collecting (another of my interests) Solid 2 layer sculptured plugs ... ~ 1.5mm top leather... turn back edges .. hand stitched... black oil dye (plus commercial black refinish) Colour - acrylics .. resolene sealer plus wax sealer .. Inner supports - 3mm hardboard with soft liners ... simple shoulder strap.. line snap closures (least obtrusive fitting - which did work well) Nb: posted on some FB pages also
  19. I'm awake... Just contact- email- me in Auckland or Steve in Aus
  20. From the album: gordond's Machinery NewZealand

    Album cover bag. made recently and taken on board this year's "Cruise to the Edge" - autograph collecting (another of my interests) Solid 2 layer sculptured plugs ... ~ 1.5mm top leather... turn back edges .. hand stitched... black oil dye (plus commercial black refinish) Colour - acrylics .. resolene sealer plus wax sealer .. Inner supports - 3mm hardboard with soft liners ... simple shoulder strap.. line snap closures (least obtrusive fitting - which did work well). Nb : also Posted on FB
  21. Can't help with spares.. but some photos of what you need.. appears you need approx 5 parts(and bolts) - balance wheel .. bottom drive arm plus shaft.. drive shaft/cam connector...and wood pitman arm The foot lift pedal is just one piece - axle - bolted to the frame. (Pedal shown LHS photo # 3 .. with bottom drive arm RHS) My first one had no stand but I acquired an original style frame but missing the major parts .. long story - but ended up welding / building them - reference was photos online (measured and scaling).... And as fate has it .. about 18 months later I found a #2 machine with a complete stand ..lol!
  22. From the album: gordond's Machinery NewZealand

    BUSM #HM6 ... serial no : 7114 ... restored

    © gordondnz2018

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