TwinOaks

Nice Job! It may be a kit, but that's really nice work on the design. You've done really well on the coloring, too.

Howdy Darryl, and to Leatherworker.net, one of the friendliest, and probably the best place on the internet. We're glad to have you here with us. We've got several members from Australia and NZ, and they might have some ideas about suppliers for you. Good looking work that you posted.

There's also the liquid latex method, but I don't know if that would keep the dye from wicking through the fibers. However, it is good for blocking irregularly shaped areas.

After a little comment on another thread, I've especially taken notice that this is really a global community. As such, not all of our members are fluent in English- either UK or American versions. I have just a whisp of experience in Spanish and some intoductory French under my belt. I realize online translators are great, and are a really quick way to get a message posted. However, they do make mistakes, or don't accurately translate as we intend- after all, it's a machine doing the translation. Obviously, not every language can be represented, nor can all computers handle the graphics for all foreign languages. Arabic, Kanji, and Ciryllic based languages require additional settings for the computer, and I don't know how the website would process them. For those languages that can be emulated with the standard QWERTY/ English keyboard, I ask all those who are multilingual to assist our members who don't speak English primarly. Though pretty rusty, I'll volunteer to help with any Spanish. I AM NOT FLUENT in Spanish, but remember a fair amount from my school days...and I'll do what I can. I am pretty good at translating Yankee, Southernese, Backwoods, and I'm working on Cajun. Tom Swede, please agree to help with the Nordic languages- I can't say some of the words without pausing for a breath in the middle of it. I hope we can get a pretty good volunteer group together, with multiple people willing to help translate to other languages if the need arises. Thanks for your time, Mike

Shirley, I haven't seen the bracelet in question, but I'll add this. If the guy asks again about making it cheaper, tell him "YES!" Then proceed to explain why you made it the way you did, sparing no detail of the amount of work, or the quality of materials. Then say yes, you CAN make it more cheaply by using inferior materials and a simplified, less attractive way of assembly. But you WON'T because of "[ insert your feelings about POW/MIA Soldiers]" and they deserve the best. Let him try to argue the price after that. Troy, I really like the way you expressed your thoughts on this.

con mucho gusto.

Trastu, ¿La mirada a la foto original del cortador (en el comentario 9)- ve los huecos grandes? Esto es realmente 3 pedazos, con un cerrojo que lo mantiene unido. El pequeño espacio entre los pedazos, un vertical y otro en un ángulo, es donde el cuchillo es insertada. Es sostenido en el lugar por la presión de la tuerca de mariposa en el cerrojo de asamblea. El anillo es movido hacia o lejos de el cuchillo para controlar la anchura. El anillo también puede ser colocado cerca de la ranura angulada para biselar el cordón. Al menos esto es como lo veo trabajar. (Online translation, y'all....I ain't that good!) Trastu, Look at the original pic of the cutter (in post # 9) - see the big gaps? It's actually 3 pieces, with a bolt holding it together. The little space between the pieces, one vertical and the other at an angle, is where the blade is inserted. It is held in place by pressure from the wing nut on the assembly bolt. The collar is moved towards or away from the blade to control width. The collar can also be placed close to the angled slot to bevel the lace. At least that's how I see it working.

Just goes to show that it isn't the medium, it's the artist.

I get a cleaner called "Awesome" at the local Dollar Tree. I've used it to pull Sharpie off of a counter top, and walls (kids...) as well as to pull IODINE out of a white towel. No kidding, the stuff works. The only problem I see is that it will probably pull out all the tannins, too. I know for a fact that OxiClean will harden and darken leather...and not in a good way. My best solution would to be try wicking out all you can (as posted), then use a mild detergent to try and loosen the rest. If not, weigh the cost of replacement with the cost of professional cleaning. And check your cleaning method on scrap to avoid damaging the customer's leather and HAVING to replace it. Any chance you could just stain the rest of it to match and claim ignorance to the whole 'wrong color' thing?

Beautiful work as always. I really like the look of that Busey knife. Yours or a customers?

Sharp skinning knife....umm, yes, you need something that can cut straight lines. For 'gator skin, a skill saw or chain saw might be a good idea! I don't know how thick the skin is, so the answer is really subjective. Several members use a rotary blade (think pizza cutter, but razor sharp) and a steel yardstick for making long straight cuts. For sewing, hand stitching it will take a LOT of time, but will be as strong (maybe stronger depending on the stitch and the thread), and if done well, more artistically pleasing. I'll drop a PM to another member and ask him to comment here, since he has more experience with 'exotics'. If you decide to hand stitch, consider using the 'saddle stitch', as it's probably the strongest stitch you could use. And, if the thread breaks or gets cut, it has less propensity to unravel. Glueing the edges before stitching is recommended. It helps when you're making the stitching holes too (keeps them lined up). As far as making the holes, if an awl won't get it (if that's even possible) you could always drill the holes. Drilling penetrates wonderfully, but the downside is that the holes won't close up around the stitch like it does with a punched hole. Mike

Hi Justin, and to Leatherworker.net. Offering tanned 'gator hides in trade for patterns is gonna make you VERY POPULAR, VERY QUICKLY!!!!!!! I'm pretty sure that the sewing machine experts will chime in too, but I doubt that anything short of a LEATHER stitcher will punch through the hide. There's lots of machines that are built to run all day, every day, but can't handle the extra stress of leather. Post the brand and model and that will help in the determination. You might also check out our forum on sewing leather. From the main forum page, just scroll down a bit and you should see it. As far as a pattern, what kind of purse did you have in mind? Simple one compartment, zippered up, buttoned, clutch? I don't have any patterns per se , but I might be able to point you in the right direction. Mike Incidentally, what part of Florida are you in?

Hi Gerbil, to Leatherworker.net. You have found perhaps the best site on the entire internet! Alex (abn) gave you a good list to start with. One change I would make, since this is your first project, is to replace the dye and finish (as separate items) with a bottle of the Eco-flo 'all in one'. This presumes that you want a solid color. Both methods will work well, but have slightly different techniques. Here's something else you can try too: In the link you gave us, the strap is wrapped near the end. Once you get the hang of working with solid pieces, try your hand at lace, and 'whip' the ends of the strap together. I recommend using the glue, and possibly a rivet in place of the screw (but the screws don't require setting punches and anvils), but wrapping with lace to hide the connections. Once you get that down, check out Myriam's tutorial on the four strand round braid (search Dog Leash Tutorial). That would make an attractive camera strap. Definitely order a Tandy catalog from tandyleatherfactory(dot)com. One, you'll see that they have a nice selection of toys tools and materials, even some starter kits. Two, you'll have a reference when someone talks about the tools they used for a particular something. Otherwise, you might get a little confused when folks talk about their F871. The catalog is handy to grab and check what they're talking about. Mike

It makes sense that with the 'smearability' of the Eco dyes, spraying on the finish would be prudent.

Hi and welcome to Leatherworker.net. We're glad you found our little corner of the internet. As Srigs said, the best way to get a pattern for your specific needs is to design one. Paper works well, but I prefer using card stock, or file folders. I got the idea from another member here. Just grab a standard manilla file folder, and use the crease/fold as your center line. SAFETY FIRST!!! ONLY USE AN UNLOADED PISTOL. Or a blue gun. Place your 1911 upside down, centered on the crease, then lay it to either side and trace the pattern. If you keep the pen/pencil vertical, you'll have a little space around the pistol. This will be important depending upon the thickness of the leather. I prefer 6-7 oz leather for IWB holsters, and 7-8 for OWB. Once you have the pattern of the pistol traced, you can cut it out and use the pieces for a pancake holster ( two sides stitched together) or keep it folded for a clamshell holster. Use the tracing as your base, then add paper/card stock to form the rest of the holster to your liking. Scotch tape is handy here. The card stock is a little better than leather because it resists bending a bit more than the paper- just like leather! Once you have your general pattern, cut the piece(s) from leather and wet it. The leather doesn't need to be dripping wet, but it should be thoroughly damp. This will let you form the holster. The next steps vary from maker to maker. They are Form the holster and Stitch the holster. Some makers stitch it first, then insert the pistol to form it. Others like to preform it, then stitch it. I've done both and the stitch first method is a bit easier. Personally, I prefer to mold first. So...wrap the pistol in a Ziploc bag, or saran wrap to protect it from the moisture. Then start stretching the leather over it, using fingers, thumbs, wrenches, screwdriver handles, whatever.. to mold the leather to the shape of the pistol. I only do this to the outside of the holster, prefering to keep the body side flat. Once the leather is molded, groove a stitch line, lay out your stitch holes, and sew it up. Let it dry and apply a finish. Voila! Holster is made. Mike

Ragweedforge(dot)com has instructions for hardenining sheaths using parafin and oil in a hot bath. That, with other comments here, makes me think that it probably isn't the best idea for riding gear.

Very nice Clay! I've been told by The Boss that I'm to eventually move into tack work. I'm also interested in how long it took to make.

Tom, I don't know if I did it right, especially 'cause mine looks more like a line drawing than anything else..., but I had a little luck opening up the cuts by using a little lateral pressure as I cut. Kinda like sliding through the cut, applying a bit of pressure at maybe 20 degrees off center. Not enough to turn the blade, but just a little twist. It really starts dragging on the blade quickly, so I started stropping between cuts, and that smoothed things out.

Ah...I think I see the way now. Thanks Tom for posting that, it gives me a better understanding of what this style is about. I'll see if I can't get another made soon.

So these are 'arm sized, ancient style, wedding bands', right? Pretty cool stuff, Tom.

I think the biggest issue here is that Barry's tools are stainless steel that's been milled, filed, ground, and polished into shape. The Tandy tools, from my observation of MY tools, are definitely a lesser metal AND they appear to have a hard chrome finish. I say this because I've got a few that have been nicked/scratched and then had chrome flake off in small pieces. This last part is probably the culprit, as the act of plating the mild steel will fill in the corners and round off the edges... slightly. Even a little bit will be enough to make the impression less defined. A while back, I heard that Tandy wanted to buy back or borrow any of the OLD tools if people had them. The reason was to remake the dies for the tool, using the older version. Apparently, the casting dies (?) were fairly well worn out, and there were no 'master' versions to use.

BAD SWEDE!!! No candy for you!

Ray, ....what accessories should one sell along side BDSM leather? And would you include an instruction sheet?

There's quite a few airbrush tutorials available on the internet. Just do a google search on the topic and pick one. The information is rarely limited to one specific airbrush, and instead focuses on technique. It's worth the time to check out a few of them.

Well, here's my pittance.... I hope this falls into the 'finger cuts' category, 'cause I'm a while away from doing any scroll work. I guess if I need to go back and add some little squiggles and twirlies I could. Lemme know how I did. Mike