TwinOaks

Great response, Lobo!! The only thing I can think of to add is that the best one to make is the one your customer wants.

Art, Good idea on the epoxy putty! I haven't used it much so it didn't occur to me to try it.

Speaking of ....this thread hasn't been going on for a week. Look at the first post. It's been going on for almost a YEAR. Now, step away from the computer and get back to the real world. And my opinion about the whole thing is this: Laser etching/printing on leather has it's place. There's a lot that can be done with it, especially if you have a high volume or an intricate design. It's especially useful for brand logos on tags or conchos. For the most part, though, it should be recognized as just another tool in the tool box. There's nothing to say that the method can't be used for personalized designs, as it can quickly and effectively create "just what the customer wants". There's still the skill needed to build the seat (the physical part). If it isn't your cup of tea, then don't do it. For those who've found the market and are successfully selling to it...wish them luck and congratulations. Just don't call it something it isn't.

And from the "Tome of Useless Knowledge" that is my brain.... What is the only form of measurement that has no Metric Equivalent?

The biggest limitation to arbor presses is the throat depth. Other than that, you can modify them pretty much any way you want. They are absolutely great for setting grommets and tube rivets. Ann, when you get ready for a larger cutting board, skip Tandy and find a kitchen/restaurant supply store. I picked up a 16x24" poly cutting board for right around $20.

The issue is likely the pressure on the presser foot. It's pressing hard enough to literally "squish" the leather to the side. Try lightening it up a bit and see if it helps. The presser foot's job is to hold the material (leather) in place while the needle comes out of the leather....not to mash it together. I've had a similar problem when sewing welts and not having enough leather under the foot. I solved the issue by having a 'blank' on the inside to prevent the crushing.

I doubt we'll get an "auction" area here, but we do have a "for sale" section and members are welcome to use it. There are some rules, so please read them before posting.

There was a similar discussion to this on about 3 years ago, but I don't feel like digging it up. In a nutshell, all the reasons you've listed PLUS everything in the other posts...all lead up to the same thing: Most leather shops wind up with at least two sewing machines, and often times 3-4. The machines are quite capable, but if you're setting up for any kind of production speed, a 'one machine shop' isn't practical. It's much more economical and practical to have secondary and tertiary machines set up so all you have to do is move from one to the other. One big machine, one medium machine, and a patcher.....that's about the requirements if you're planning on having a dedicated leather shop. Of course, if you're just a hobbiest then it doesn't make sense to have the extra money tied up multiple machines.

That mystery tool IS a tack/staple remover....just a well worn one. For the types of things you're currently working on, it probably won't see much use. Other than that, keep it around, there's no such thing as too many tools.

For our European members....is there a METRIC snowflake?

If the head is less than two feet long, or less than 200lbs, it's probably a light duty home machine. As stated, these will handle a few layers of garment leather at most. Forcing it to sew thicker or harder leather will likely damage it. See what you can find out about it, but it will probably be most valuable as a reminder of her.

Find a flat washer with a large enough hole for the piece...or drill it bigger. Get a threaded metal cap from the plumbing section big enough for the finial. Coat or wrap the finial (thin food wrap / saran wrap) to prevent sticking and mostly fill the cap with epoxy, leaving just enough room for some "squish" displacement. Center the washer over the filled cap and insert the finial. You should have enough displacement for the epoxy to contact the washer, which will stick it to the cap permanently. When it completely sets, you'll have a finial anvil. If you stretch the saran wrap over it (starting at the nose), be sure to pull tightly enough to keep the sides smooth. If you insert it and let the epoxy set around the groove.....you'll need another finial, another cap, another washer, more epoxy, and a larger "swear jar".

I'm wondering if an Exacto handle would work. Some have a hole in the center to accommodate different tools, and you might find one that fits.

Have you considered 'hide glue'?

I don't have that info. You might want to call SLC and ask if they've decided to sell it.

That's Canada, not China. Since you didn't specify that you would only ship to CONUS, I think it'd be fair for you to check the actual shipping to Canada and if the cost exceed reasonable expectations that you split the additional shipping charges with the buyer. If there are import/customs fees, that should fall on the buyer. I have an Aluminum Boss, and have had NO problems with it.....other than the ones I caused.

Good point Doc. Case quantity is 8 sheets. Sheets are 4x8 feet (32 sq. ft.). SLC can get less than a full case, but the shipping is the same, so they prefer getting the full case...otherwise the price has to go up to reflect the non-bulk shipping rates. Retail value for their minimum order is a little over $1700....(subtract a little for wholesale pricing, add a little for shipping) so they've got a bit of an expense if they make the purchase. Rusty said he doesn't mind making that purchase, so long as he knows he can sell it. I opened this topic to see if there was enough interest here, so we could get a target sample.

Thank you Steve, that makes it a LOT clearer. Please let us know when you make the sale so we can move the topic.

Well...NOW it's closed.

Quiet zone tips: Hang foam or fabric on the walls between your neighbors. Any type of sound baffle will help quiet it down. Don't stamp/tool on a table as it will transmit the sound through it to the floor. If you can, get a stone slab at least 18" wide and hold it on your lap, using your legs as dampeners. As far as the art work- Very nice. There are quite a few styles of leather work, and some techniques associated with them. There are also some physical limits you'll have to learn about leather...but they're a LONG ways away from what you might think.... Verlane D. embossed a horse's head ~ 6 inches out from a piece of leather, and Peter Main has made 3-D figures in the waaaaaaay tiny range. The single most important concept for you to remember is this : NO RULES. Nobody ever did Sheridan style carving...until they did. Nobody thought to inverse carve a figure, or emboss, or anything else.....until they did. You've got a unique style, and that may be all that you need to push your bounderies and go in a totally new direction, one that no one considered going down....until YOU did.

Check to be sure that the kydex isn't rubbing or otherwise activating the laser switch? It's a little hard to see if you have already allowed for that. If it does, tape a small spacer over it and re-mold, making a "button channel" along the side.

This thread is from July of 2010....about 18 months ago. I don't think there's any use in reviving it.

That's a pretty nice shamshir!

If you have a need for all the features of the knife, but don't have the metallurgical knowledge or skill to make one, then yes, they're worth that price....unless you can find it cheaper. Keep in mind that Paul Z has spent some serious time and money not only on the physical shape, but also on what's IN the blade. You can check out his site for all the comments on the SK's blade. I believe his intent was to create a round knife that is the next generation in both geometry and cutting ability...and he's done a dang fine job of it. If by chance, you have access to the various alloys needed to make high carbon stainless steel, and the tools to forge (or press), taper, grind, and heat treat the blade (SS needs molten salt vats in a pretty specific temp range which is very dependent on the particular alloy), and the skill to do that type work....then it may be more economical for you to pound one out one afternoon. There is really only one reason why I don't have an SK-3 swivel knife yet. I like the design, I like that Paul has experimented to find the best alloy, and I like the construction methods....but I can't justify the price to myself until I reach the limits of carving ability with my old swivel knife. As soon as I get to that point, I'll get one. Same thing applies here: I have an A.Stohlman brand head knife and it cuts everything I put in front of it. If I didn't have that head knife, or if I needed it to do something it can't, I might could justify purchasing one of the new ones Now, my personal opinion on the matter is that if you like the design, and all the features this knife design incorporates over 'standard' head/round knives.....then give the guy some credit and buy one of his knives instead of asking for the pattern. Round knives aren't new, and the original designer(s) have long since lost any patentable claims...but this one is pretty new and does have some specific design elements. I'm not sure if Paul has patented it, but it'd be worth investigating before blatantly copying.