TwinOaks

The sailrite is not suitable for sewing holsters, unless you're making unlined, unformed pocket holsters out of oil tanned leather. It will also not handle the thicker threads like 277 that are common to holsters. Read this thread: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=25239

Good splitters are not cheap, and you get what you pay for. The best option is to have some money set aside and start browsing 'for sale' ads, antique stores, etc. Next best.....save up enough to get the real deal from the start.

Nice set up, thanks for sharing the pics.

There's a wallet pattern right here, on this forum. You just need to expand your search parameters...

Nas, it looks pretty good for a third holster. Somebody's been reading leatherworker...... If I may.....You're pulling the stitches too tight and/or sewing with the leather too wet. That's what's causing the puckering. Stop using the drill press. Don't drill holes in leather. It removes leather by tearing it and the stitch holes will not be able to close up like they do with an awl. If you're gonna hand sew, do it right. Now, if you want to mount an awl needle in the press (not running) and use it like that I guess it'd be okay....but no more drill bits. Read Bob (Hidepounder) Park's tutorial on edges. It's in the 'How do I do that?' section. To make the holster molded on only one side, lay out and cut out the back (leave a little extra room on the edges...you can always trim). Glue one side (let dry) , then pull a little 'dart' in the leather. 'V' shaped a little to allow for the stretching. Once you've got the dart pulled in, mark the other side of the holster, cut and glue. You should have a holster shaped thingy, with a big, ugly, unformed hump in the middle. [ note: you may need to try a couple of times to get the dart the right size] Go ahead and stitch the perimeter. Now, ONLY WET THE FRONT for molding. Insert gun/dummy gun and start stretching the leather. Here's a really valuable tip, pay attention to this part---> When you start molding, put the whole thing in a large plastic bag- I like the gallon sized ziploc style. The plastic will let you use your molding tools without putting friction marks on the holster. If you've got some leatherworking tools that have the round handle, ROLL it around the outline to get a good base for your mold lines. As the leather dries and will hold the shape, start using a tighter radius tool to press the leather down. Start with a larger radius tool and work the leather down, stretching it as you go. When you've got it almost there, you can move to a spoon (from the silverware drawer) so you can press the corners in by rolling/rotating the spoon around the gun. Now, take your wing dividers (or compass from the back to school department) and trace the line of the gun for your stitch line.

Good point, AZ.... I think you probably are pressing too hard, combined with extended continuous flexing of the muscle. It's just more than the muscles are able to do for a long time. Do remember to take some vitamins or eat a banana.

Intentio: The advice is always "get as much machine as you can, and try to get more machine than you think you'll need". What you're describing might be doable on a 618 type machine....but it has some limitations inherent to a flatbed. If you were to go to the next step and go with a 441 clone, you have the option of flat or cylinder- which means bag work gets easier. The 441 clones can handle most of the common threads you'd use, and still have the option to get a little thicker if you ever needed to. Any of the top suppliers would be a good choice, but some may disparage the others....hey, it's business. Pretty much, try to use the supplier listed on this site because they are setting up an industrial machine head specifically to sew leather. Things like DC servo motors and speed reducers make all the difference between a nice line of stitches and sewing yourself to your work. Yes, you could probably order components, but unless you're a sewing machine mechanic, you'll likely have some headaches. Just rely on the experience of the top 3 until you get used to your machine.....then start tinkering. In alphabetical order....Artisan, Cobra, and Cowboy (sold through Toledo Industrial).....they all have good products and reputations to back them.

Thanks, K-man, I had the two confused. Since I don't do that type of work, I was relying on (faulty) memory.

Please do a search on " Vinegaroon" and you'll see the discussions we've had about it. One of the most important steps that people tend to overlook is to oil the leather after applying the brew. The process chemically alters the leather and the oils/tallows need to be put back in the leather. Sweating on it does the same thing, but takes a little longer. Properly done, a piece blackened with vinegaroon will take on a deeeeeeep black and maintain a surface patina akin to Patent Leather......and here I go starting to retype the other discussion threads........<sigh>

Child labor is free when it's family. If they argue about it with you.....start charging them for dinner. "That meatloaf is gonna cost you 6 inches of stitching....The roll? That's two inches. Don't even ask how much you have to sew for dessert."

Over the 4 years or so that I've been working with leather, I've improved A LOT. I've been fortunate in that friends and family were supportive of my efforts. It's true that I've always been my own worst critic, and even when I had people tell me "Oh, it's fantastic!" or some such, I still found faults with things. Now, as I progress in this hobby/career, I find myself examining my product and saying "Nope, can't see where to make it better." At this point my work is exponentially better than when I started, and I'm pretty proud of my progression....and I don't see where to make it better. So, what I'm working on now is learning to look at the leather better, and learn what I'm not seeing. I think that's the mark of a true craftsman- taking the time to turn out the best work possible and still looking for a way to make it better. LW.net to the rescue!!! Thanks to this site, I've been able to gauge myself against true masters of this craft.......I'm figuring another 8-10 years and I'll be where I want to be. Does this disappoint me? Not at all. I'm pretty sure I can turn out the odd piece that is 'master' level, but it's more of a fluke than not. I'm turning out "good" and "better than many" quality, but I won't be satisfied until I'm consistently producing work that makes people wish they were 'that good'. Regarding the OP, I think this is the major issue with today's "custom" makers; they're after the quick dollar instead of striving to master the craft. The biggest thing about it is the marketing. I can't make a large quantity of any particular thing in a reasonable time frame. With that bit of information, I know that I can't compete with a "leather company'" that produces items in the 100+ quantities, per run. Therefore, when they hire someone to get on a forum and proclaim the wonders of their product, I'm automatically at a disadvantage because I can't meet a sudden demand....even though I have a better product. The result is that the 'good enough to make the sale' leather work sees a broader market and gets more reviews- which may or may not be accurate and true- and thus more business. If everybody can get one in a reasonable time, then it must be a good product, right? As we all know, this isn't always the case, but "perception is reality", so we see more 'custom' shops open up overnight, looking to cash in on the market. One excellent example is the Crossbreed holster that combines leather and kydex. There's umpteen thousand people offering a knock off of that design now.......and a few craftsmen (and women) who decline to accept the quick dollar by copying someone else's design.

Arbor press from Harbor Freight.

Fiebing's and Angelus. You can try the Tandy Eco- dyes, too. There's as thread on here specifically about the eco flo dyes for your reading pleasure.

The KK influence is very obvious, looks like you followed his tutorials quite well. Here's something you need to pay attention to: The IBEW logos/symbols and name/acronym(initials) are at least copyrighted, and possibly trademarked. If you are selling your work, you could see some problems. There's a thread on copyrighted material that's quite long, but worth the read. In a VERY general sense, you can use any image on personal items, but if you are putting someone else's image/logo/brand/etc. on products you sell, you are using material that may require you to have licensing from them. Ex: You could make a tool roll for a motorcycle and put the Harley Davidson logo on it....as long as it's for your use. If you sell it to someone, you're in violation of copyright or trademark laws. Not trying to burst your bubble, or imply that you ARE doing something wrong, because they're very nice wallets....but you need to be aware of it. Here's the thread: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?act=idx

Welcome to Leatherworker.net! Like Ferg said, we LOVE pics. While you're looking around, don't hesitate to drop some questions or suggestions in the forums.

I've made several belts out of stirrup straps. Fantastic belts. If you can, ask the supplier to hand pick the straps with the best backs. Two of the ones I made had backs that were almost like suede...but very fine....velvety even. Others have been stringy, so YMMV. My daily belt is made from stirrup strap, vinegarooned, and just keeps getting better and better looking.

I recently upgraded to FF4 and have figured out most of the bells and whistles. However, the one thing I find myself missing is the 'preview' when I hover a link. The cursor only gets a little black bar under it instead of the text box (preview) I used to get. Is there any remedy for this?

Thanks Glenn. Please drop us a line when the domain issue is taken care of, so we can get to the site.

Not to be rude, but this thread is over two years old. Please start a new topic, or use the search function to locate suggestions for leather used in bags.

Yep, looks like a redirect. Also, the Greyhawk link pulls up Database Error: Unable to connect to the database:Could not connect to MySQL

Chris, that is absolutely outstanding work! Such detail in the molding, the subtle shifting in colors, and the finish!!.....wow, even Peter Main should be jealous. Congratulations, sir, a gen-u-wine treasure! There will be some rough spots, but it's worth every second.

I really don't know what the fascination with a "BONE" folder is....it's a boning, creasing, and folding tool.....boning meaning molding to bring out details. You can make them out of pretty much anything that you can get a smooth finish and as fine a point as you want to use. The cheap plastic ones are just that- cheap. I made mine out of cocobola and included a tapered groove at the back end for slicking and burnishing. Before you start looking at trying to shape and treat leg bones from a cow, take a look at the tool and it's uses. I'm not so sure that using porous bone would do a good job without scratching the finish.. Bone may work fine on paper crafts, but leather tends to mar pretty easily. Maybe the idea of a "BONE" folder developed like this: Boning, creasing and folding tool Boning/folding tool Boning/folder bone/folder "Bone" folder Eric, thanks for posting the vids. I missed them, but video instruction is as close to 'classroom instruction' as a lot of new members can get. I'm sure they appreciated it. Looking forward to more opportunities like this.