George3
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Everything posted by George3
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J.D. Randall Krebs Style Splitter & Osborne #84 for sale
George3 replied to Union Level Leather's topic in Old/Sold
Sold… -
Are you using the same thickness thread. Do you have the corresponding spacer?
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Try Maverick leather...
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Awesome work!
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New guy to forum
George3 replied to Christopher's topic in Purses, Wallets, Belts and Miscellaneous Pocket Items
PS: Nice work... -
New guy to forum
George3 replied to Christopher's topic in Purses, Wallets, Belts and Miscellaneous Pocket Items
Hi Christopher, my name is George. I'm in South Hill Va, my website is Unionlevelleather.com stop by if your in the neighborhood . HI NEIGHBOR !!! -
I can't find the unread content? where do I look?
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Want best source/price for English Bridle Leather backs
George3 replied to Wizcrafts's topic in All About Leather
I like W&C but delivery can be a pain in the #%%. If your not in a hurry give them a call, ask for Mat he's the sales manager and ask him if he has it in stock and if it can be delivered now. I use their leather as a first choice, and their prices are a little less than weaver. Weaver will set you up as a wholesale account with little or no trouble. They have some good leather and if it's worth your while they'll cut the straps to your specs. Hope this helps... George Unionlevelleather.com -
Fed Up Of Cheap Rotary Punches... What Next?
George3 replied to erniethemilk's topic in Leather Tools
I've been using the Osborne punch for 3 years and still going strong with every day use. Don't punch anything that's not leather such as nylon webbing as it will dull the cutting edge. Tip # 2 you can sharpen the tubes by putting them in a drill and holding a stone against it and work of the inside burr with a drill bit😎 You made a good choice... I've been using the Osborne punch for 3 years and still going strong with every day use. Don't punch anything that's not leather such as nylon webbing as it will dull the cutting edge. Tip # 2 you can sharpen the tubes by putting them in a drill and holding a stone against it and work of the inside burr with a drill bit😎 You made a good choice... -
Fed Up Of Cheap Rotary Punches... What Next?
George3 replied to erniethemilk's topic in Leather Tools
Osborne all the way, had the cheap ones, had to use a hammer to make it punch 12 oz leather. Bought the Osborne leather punch with replaceable tubes and never looked back. Cuts through thick leather with little or no effort. cheap tools cost more in the long run... -
Well now! I purchased a Consew 206RB5, It's a nice machine, I can be fussy about equipment and I haven't seen the Juki or the Premier series to be able to compare. The Consew was supposed to come all set up, it didn't! The finish on the machine, well, chipped paint, the table that came with it, well that's on the flimsy side. I spent a day setting it up with a couple of calls to Zamir. He sent me some photos to help assemble. Now on to the sewing, On the slowest speed I couldn't make it crawl and I might add I don't know how anyone could sew on the highly speed, it can fly! I was sewing some heavy Cordura and when I started on a hemmed seam sometimes I had to help it along as it didn't have enough torque to penetrate the seam, so no power at slow speed. Then after reading many posts I called Bob Kovar at Toledo Sewing and bought a speed reducer. Now, the machine does everything you could ask it to, with plenty of low end torque and still all the speed and more that I could ask for. In my opinion, I think it's a great machine, but still shows signs of being a Chinese built machine. I hear all the machines, Juki, Consew's etc. are all made in China. I have a bigger Durkopp Adler 205/370 and you can see the difference in workmanship but you'll have to pay almost 5 times the price. Bottom line is I'm happy with the machine the way it is now. George
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I make chaps out of 1000 and 1200 cordura I used to sew it on a 205-370, it did okay down to 138 22/140 needle, even with 277 on top and 138 bottom, I think I used a 25 needle. The material wanted to bunch up with the lighter material, but did a passable job I recently bought a Consew 206 and never looked back. Bottom line is, yes. You can. My wife is a graphic design teacher and her favorite quote is " just because you can, doesn't mean you should"
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Sent PM
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- leather strap cutter
- strap cutter roller
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Latest Off The Bench
George3 replied to BondoBobCustomSaddles's topic in Saddle & Tack Maker Gallery
Holy Smoke! Your my idol! Absolutely a work of art... -
I use a piece of aluminum angle stock 2" wide, also from Home Depot. If you can clamp it or weight it down, all the better.
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I get 6oz W&C bridle and its flexible, I make totes and bags with it. Are you covering a hard case with leather? If so 3-4 might work. Staking will soften it even more. Call W&C and speak with Mat, he's the sales manager, or Dave, he's a new guy on the team but really helpful, they can answer all your questions. If you call weaver ask for tn leather Dept manager and he'll make sure you get what your looking for George
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Harness isn't particularly stronger than bridle it's the same leather, but it goes one step furthur and has more wax, oil and tallow added. Very difficult to burnish an edge, seems softer with all the added stuff. I make a lot of horse and harness type of supplies with W&C show harness leather, but not case goods. If your looking for weatherproof, bridle leather will do fine, if it gets dragged through the mud and snow day after day, show harness is the only way to go. I make tack for the pointing dog field trialers, the pro's give it a work out, 7 days a week month after month and good harness leather holds up!
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I'm interested also, but will wait for Nigel's review...
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My choice would be bridle, unless you want to make a case that's extremely water proof Wickett and Craig has a chestnut as does Weaver that is gorgeous. W&C some times takes up to 4 weeks to send an order.
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Source For 206Rb5? (Should I Consider A Different Machine?)
George3 replied to Dougster's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
I recently bought a 206RB5 from Zamir, 1270.00 delivered. Helped a lot before the sale and was just ok after the sale, didn't answer email. But all in all, I'd probably buy from Zamir again. He has a couple of Consew Premier machines that might be worth looking at, P1206 and P1541. My only problem with the Consew is the start up speed, to fast, so I ordered a speed reducer from Bob Kovar at Toledo Sewing. I do like the Consew a lot though. Just my 2 cents worth... -
Has anyone used a spring type hemming foot for a Consew 206? I'm making chaps using 1200D Cordura and the hemming sure takes a lot of time, I'm folding and using plastic clips right now. Thanks in advance, George
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- consew
- hemming foot
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I've used the Walmart white cutting boards for quite some time and I have never broken any tools! Buy good tools once, buy cheap tools over and over again. I have a wood shop and when the white cutting board gets on the rough side I run it through the planer and just skim the old marked up stuff off, when it gets real bad I buy my wife a new cutting board
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I have to post this piece of art for a good friend Karen Conover in south central Va. She has no idea that this is being shown. She was handed one piece of black and gold material and asked to creat a piece of fiber art, and that she did, this beautiful Quilt / Wall Hanging sewing machine is amazing! I thought my friends on this board could appreciate it. What a talented artist this lady is... George Doyle Unionlevelleather.com
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Video: Durkopp Adler 205-370 Operating Guide
George3 replied to Uwe's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
Well done, kudos! I've been using a 205-370 for a while and I picked up a few tips from your video. You've made it easy to understand. Alan and Jackie at Weaver Leather are great to work with, they are a wealth of information, and Weaver stands behind their products 100%. Thank you Uwe, can't wait for the next video... George Unionlevelleather.com -
Burnishing/hardening Edges Of Soft Leather
George3 replied to kipling79's topic in How Do I Do That?
If it was me, I'd dye the edges with a darker color and use some gum trag and rub a slicker over it and call it a day. I use a bone folder to do the insides of the cutout. Be careful with the dye, I use a small dauber and angle it so as not to get it on the top of the strap, use a small artist brush in the slot. It is what it is, it's leather...