DJole

I have been enjoying watching various of these YouTube videos produced in Germany. They cover an astounding breadth of handwork -- making bagpipes, alpenhorns, French horns, bread, cheese, ham... the list goes on and on! But this forum is for leatherworkers, and there are some videos featuring leather workers. The audio is in German, but subtitles are available in both German and English. I hope you find these enjoyable and perhaps useful! How to make a leather belt | SWR Craftsmanship: < How to make a purse | SWR Craftsmanship: < How to make a leather satchel | SWR Craftsmanship: < How to tailor leather pants | SWR Handwerkskunst: <

And to add to the confusion, the industry term for them is a "Baskart".... ;-)

I got an arbour press last year. (Vevor #1, a one ton press.) I made sure to get one with the hole and set screw already drilled in the square pressing shaft. I use it to set rivets, snaps, and for my custom maker's stamp. It is a lot more accurate than hammering! I don't have any clicker dies for use on it yet, but I'd like to try that next. I have been pleased with it so far.

Maybe you could lose that Chapstick and save a couple pounds? haha! Seriously though--that's a 20 year old belt? It's a tough piece of work!

You might find some useful information in Ian Atkinson's videos. I have linked, below, his video which discusses what tools a beginner needs: https://www.ianatkinson.net/leather/learn/videos.htm The one video I mentioned above is titled "The Tools You Need for Leatherwork!"

Looking at the sheath as a working piece, with the knife going in, coming out, many many times.... I wonder if the stitches along the blade edge will get sliced, especially as the leather stretches over time and use. Would a welt along that edge be a good idea? I'm no expert on sheathes, so I look forward to someone with experience to correct me if I am wrong.

Type the search term "coin holder keychain" into Amazon, and look at some of the possibilities there.

Thanks-- it was a complicated project that stretched my skills a bit, and I'm pleased with the results.

This took me a while to complete, because I had never done an outside zipper pocket like this before (with rolled, hidden edges inside). The outside zip pocket is lined with genuine handwoven blue Harris Tweed, selected from the Harris Tweed shop on the Isle of Harris, Scotland. That blue tweed has come a long way! The interior is lined with a bright blue leather, and has a patch pocket The zipper has a thistle charm I got from Amazon. All it needs now is an appropriate strap.

I have one of those "safety skivers" (the silver one), but I never could get it to work right, never making a clean, even skive. I now use two different tools for skiving. One is a French edge skiving tool, and the other is an Olfa Japanese skiving knife. Do an internet search on those terms to see what I am talking about. I spent some time watching videos to see how the Japanese skiving knife is used, and I caught on quickly. I polish the edge up with 1000 grit sandpaper and my leather strop before starting a skiving project, and I have learned the "feel" when I need to re-polish in mid project. For other jobs, such as skiving large bits of leather (rather than just edges, like the Japanese knife), I use the French edge skiver. I keep it sharp and polished too. For some projects using stiffer leather, I can use it for edge skiving. Maybe others have figured out how to get those skiving tools to work, but mine just sits in a drawer, and I reach for the other two tools frequently. I think the only selling point is that they are "safety" skivers, whereas the other skivers (especially the Japanese knife) have a bare razor edge, right there ready to injure the careless. Just keep them sharp and polished, be careful, be aware of where your fingers are, and use a polished stone surface to skive on.

Makes any horse look like a throroughbred! ; Nice, solid work!

In the lock stitch, the threads are pulling on each other. In the saddle stitch, they are only pulling on the leather. I wonder if that might make a difference? Of course, it's only speculation without somebody putting the threads to a test on an industrial testing machine.

I have a tube of Barge all purpose cement, toluene-free formula, here. Unfortunately, I can't compare it to other Barge formulas, or other adhesives, since I have little or no experience with them. I have been quite happy using this particular Barge formula for bags and wallets. For shoes? I don't know.

Interesting... do the original caps have any sort of liner?

Oh, I think I see what you mean now. I have some patterns (templates now, since I have glued them onto cardstock) that I need to be taped securely to the leather. So what I have done is this: I used clear packing tape to cover the pattern. If I am using the pattern on damp leather, to trace tooling lines, or punching holes, or cut-out pieces, etc., the tape goes on the front and back faces of the template (paper top, cardboard/cardstock bottom). So now the paper doesn't tear, since it's reinforced by the cardstock it's glued to, and by the plastic tape layer. This also means I can tape it to the leather (around the edge, to the back side) without tearing the pattern when I am finished. Is this closer to what you are looking for?