
mikesc
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https://xkcd.com/1807/ :)
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Unfortunately had to create a page in the business name there years ago, just to prevent someone else creating one using our business name ( yes facebook don't do anything to prevent someone else doing that, unless your business is called BMW or Ford or something equally huge and not to be messed with ) ..never used it since, just log on from another computer, have many ( that gets wiped immediately after ) to keep the account "valid", never published anything there at all, never even created a page there, follow no-one .. But doesn't stop Marky's minions telling / lieing to me ( when I do "log in" ) that I have "hundreds of followers", and that I could get even more if I paid for some ads or some additional exposure .. Zuck and co wouldn't know an "ethic" if it jumped up and bit them in the neck.. Put the following search string into Google.. movement for the rights of plants Read some of the results..it is already a "thing".. :(
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Sourcing cheaper leather to make "prototypes"?
mikesc replied to JC2019's topic in Leatherwork Conversation
Given that you eventually want to work with "exotics" ( bear in mind that they all have by no means the same working or natural characteristics, the fact that they are all lumped into the category of exotics cab be very misleading as to working with each species ) , IIWY, I'd begin with splits of various weights and scrap pigskins and thin suedes ( thrift shops may well have leather garments that you can take apart for the leather in various weights and types ) That way you'll "learn to walk" , with the cheap stuff, before "trying to run" with the expensive materials.. -
I always wonder how many of these people get their hair done , or their hipster beards shaved / shaped by people who use a leather strop..Plus, given that ( with only a very small number of exceptions, most of which is illegal, and IMO rightly so .. in order to protect species ) the leather hides and skins that we use are from animals that have been killed for meat.."leather" is a"by-product" of the worldwide meant industries ( multinational and artisanal ) what would they say if the skins were thrown away.. Ecologically at least we are not wasting resources, and the plastic alternatives ( even so called "bio-plastic" ) are very polluting to manufacture so far, with the possible exception of work being done on fungi, which is still in it's early stages for potential uses as "bio-leather".. What about wool and wool products, ( farming of sheep and goats ) facebook going to ban them? Will they ban McDo..Pizza hut, Kentucky Fried.. Nike..who have some leather models in their vastly overpriced shoes made by kids in 3rd world countries for adults in the "west"...
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I agree with BattleAx , facebook are an appalling company, they have allowed everything including beheadings and terrorism, and streaming of suicides, murders and rapes in the past, and now because they are suffering backlash over their awful record on privacy and selling of anyone's private data to anyone, and legal problems with various governments, they are attempting to "save face" with jumping on various "millennial" bandwagons. The way they run their system anyway, you'd get very little "reach" unless you pay for it, and given that they are a bot infested platform with only around 20% at absolute max of their claimed membership being real live non marketroid humans..You'd not get much exposure anyway..even if you were "allowed"..They will wither and die eventually, and many of us will celebrate the day.. Meanwhile ..if you haven't already set up on pinterest ( much as I hate their crowd sourced image theft ) you'll get more traffic from them, not so much as "click throughs" but if you watermark your images, you'll get "repins" and people coming to your site from there..Same applies to instagram..( IDK if they, instagram, have a leather ban ) , but pinterest definitely do not. There are other platforms, many are opening up out of China, but ...
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https://www.bbc.com/news/business-47806892 Just a note, despite what the article says , They are by no means the only fish leather tannery in Europe, one of our French TV stations ran a programme around 3 years ago ( which I recorded ) featuring two women who own a fish leather tannery in France supplying the bespoke shoe trade..There are others elsewhere in Europe..Interesting nevertheless..There are a few companies in France selling various types of fish leather amongst their "exotics"..
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Sole stitcher that’ll do double row stitching!
mikesc replied to DavidMillsSaddlery's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
What is recurved ? dictionary says .. ..relevancy ? Your original post..( up there ^^^which you appear to have forgotten had two sentences.. 1st sentence was Had you looked more closely at the photos that you supplied yourself ( and that we all saw ) and had you "seen" what we all did ( that the stitches were obviously not made at the same time, by any machine, because they were not parallel, as some of us said, including arashikage ( whom you just quoted ) ) you'd not have asked "which ones are capable of doing the popular double stitch?" ..you'd have realised ( as we all did, and we all said to you ) that your photos did not show "a double stitch", but they actually, obviously, showed two rows of stitching, done one after the other, because they converged..What on earth makes you think that any "attachment" is required to stitch two rows of stitching if they are done one after the other.. Even your thread title..that you posted.. was perfectly clear that you were looking for a Sole stitcher that’ll do double row stitching! Or maybe you just don't want to accept that you goofed..everyone does at some time..But your insistence that everyone else is wrong.. and that you did not post originally thinking that it was some kind of "special machine" ( machines do indeed exist that do two parallel lines of stitching, just not to attach soles , they have two needles, and they make parallel lines, not converging ones, like in your photo ), or that you could get a twin needle "attachment" to do that in "one pass"..like on a domestic machine..is making you look foolish. Twin needle machines are used on shoe or boot "uppers", for decorative effects ( amongst other things ) but not to attach soles.. -
SEIKO - What kind of sewing machine is this?
mikesc replied to Seom's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
IIRC Yakumo is the brand of at least one of the machines used by a recent poster from Taiwan, given the extremely high quality of his work , I don't think he'd use a brand that was not a good one..Seiko made machines for other brands..Consew I think was one .. No idea where you could look to find info on Seiko serial numbers, other than to suggest that you email Seiko themselves..- 29 replies
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"Customs and duties will be prepaid."..That usually means that taxes upon the goods and the customs broker fees are included, doesn't mean that VAT is, unless Tandy have sent you a VAT invoice and also their VAT number.. Cross your fingers that it slides by the VAT man..If it doesn't DHL will ask you for a cheque..for 20% of whatever your order total was including what the shipping via DHL was. VAT cannot be charged at a "flat rate" ..it is by law..20% of total cost ( of goods, plus any customs brokers fees, plus any duties, plus any shipping charges ) .. When you ask Tandy ( if you do..don't ask about "taxes" ask specifically does it include VAT at UK rate ( Value Added Tax ) and if they say "yes" ask them for a "VAT invoice" and for their VAT number..If they do not have a VAT number, it is not inclusive of VAT, if it does not mention VAT on the invoice total, it is not- inclusive.. An example ( from today ) ..I have my Godaddy account open in another window on a different browser on this machine.. I have over a hundred domains names registered with Godaddy.com ( but they are hosted elsewhere, here in France for the most part ) but registered with Godaddy in the USA..I've been a customer of theirs for nearly 20 years..They have always charged me per each domain "name" as follows ( domain price+ ICANN taxes+ "taxes" ) and then on that total, they charge me an additional 20% VAT..Their invoice says VAT is charged ( USA and NON EU customers do not pay that 20% on top ) and they give me their VAT number so I can claim it back in my accounts.. All of my Domains are set to "auto-renew"..I was checking my bank statements today..and noticed that they had as usual auto-renewed some of my .fr domains ( which would expire in mid may ) at the beginning of April ( 6 weeks in advance ) this despite that 2 years or so ago Godaddy bought a domain registrar in the EU, and opened a call centre ( multi-lingual ) in Northern Ireland to "service" their EU customers..Brexit may mean that they'll close it and move it to Eire to stay in the EU..But, even if they don't, Godaddy USA ( who bill me in dollars..bill me "including taxes" and then add 20% VAT to the bill at the end, before they debit the French credit card..
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SEIKO - What kind of sewing machine is this?
mikesc replied to Seom's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
Looks to me like it might be an older model of Seiko's CH type.. https://www.hobkirk.co.uk/seiko-ch-series-extra-heavy-duty-cylinder-arm http://www.seiko-sewing.co.jp/en/products/chseries/ The "compound feed" type, ( it has only the needle bar and the presser foot ) not like the "compound feed and walking foot" type..which has a needle bar, an outer presser foot and an inner presser foot..( 3 Vertical bars when viewed from the bobbin end )..- 29 replies
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Bear in mind that DHL may still ask you to pay VAT upon the final total showing on your Tandy account invoice , when they present you with your parcel on arrival at your door...Unless the Tandy invoice says that it is inclusive of VAT at 20% applied to the total of goods ( inc US taxes) and shipping ( and if it does, they'll give you their VAT number, so that you can claim the VAT back if you are VAT registered yourself ) ..or unless you get lucky and they've billed you EX VAT, but it "slides past the VAT man" who doesn't thus slap 20% VAT on the lot when it is incoming with DHL to Norn. IME the fastest part of any shipping to Europe via DHL is the first "outward" leg from wherever..then, depending on the time of day when it reaches their first "hub" which for you may actually be in Germany or in The Netherlands, it can get slower..Only the sender is allowed to "complain" about any delays, despite it being the receiving party ( customer ) who has paid the freight..Because you are Tandy ( or whoever's customer ) not DHL ( or whoever's) customer..Unless you have it shipped on your account with DHL or whoever.
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Sole stitcher that’ll do double row stitching!
mikesc replied to DavidMillsSaddlery's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
^^^ We have an expression ( "saying"in English, "dicton" in French ) in France, "posez cette pelle" ..translates as "put down this shovel" ..and quit digging.. Your OP was.. it is still "up there"..First sentence was.. All machines that do the "popular" double stitch, are twin needle machines.. We all have shoes/ boots that have twin "parallel" ( note that word "parallel", means the stitches neither "diverge" , nor do they get "closer"..your example photo, shows them getting closer..you were not "seeing", happens to all of us.. , but please ..Put the shovel down..: ) There are in fact twin needle "attachments" ( what you asked about in your second sentence ) that can be used to make "parallel" ( note that word again ) lines,...But..Your photo .. Supplied by you..as the example of "what you wanted to achieve" ..did not show "parallel" lines of stitching, they got closer together as they approached the instep and the heel area.. Accept that you "goofed", ( happens to all of us ) ,"looked" but did not "see"..and "move on".. Put the pelle down..STP :) -
They ( Singer ) made many..cylinder arm machines .. Which one would be your preference ? You answer may help to get you pertinent replies.. :)
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Just a note..The Amazon ad doesn't say made in Australia..it says "Aussie style"..it also says "genuine leather" , which all of us that have been doing this for a while means either "splits" or " reconstituted"..The ad has numerous grammatical mistakes in it's English..I'm pretty certain you are looking at Pakistani or Indian made imported to USA..Like a lot of leatherwear ( especially Biker and Western styles ) that I've talked about here before..Most ( if not all of the "clubwear" and the BDSM gear ( that is not "custom made"* and the leather women's wear..even the corsets at $350.00 and upwards is made in Pakistan or India..I know a lot of the manufacturers in those countries personally*.. * Even some custom made is from there..I can have a single very good leather corset "custom made" for someone ( to their measurements ) and "white label" or with my own labels in, and "made in wherever" labels sent separately.. with a 1 week to 10 day delay inc air shipping via DHL, for under $100.00 ( they do not weigh much each, if there is not a lot of additional metal after the spiral bones and the busk plate ) , but you'd pay 3 to 5 times that at retail..or even more at the "Luxury Boutiques" in New York, LA, Paris, Rome, London or Moscow .. What to use to waterproof a split ? I'd imagine it will take a fair bit of "whatever" because splits drink up oils and waxes..There may be something which someone will know that will work better than " Fiebing's Aussie Leather Conditioner", but it will maybe not be available where you are, and as your profile does not say, and you haven't said, I know that you have said that you paid £40..00 ( maybe USD ? ) But I'm in France and that ad at Amazon shows me the price in USD $$39.99 + $16.99 shipping , so the price is no guide as to where you are.. *I've designed ( and design still ) for a lot of manufacturers and "brands"..and for what I / we do..so I know the manufacturers, the "Brands" and how much they I / we pay..and how much it sells for..an example ..( one of hundreds if not thousands ( been doing this, designing, since the early 70's ) I designed a lambskin "top" / bodice ( optional stretch lace back , or leather back ) ..it costs under $40.00 to make , is very high grade lambskin, pure silk lining..It sells for $700.00 in some very expensive boutiques in major capital cities ..Designed it decades ago..it still sells very well, "A list" Celebrities are seen wearing it.., but it is nothing special..I "knocked up" the original in an afternoon...in 73 or 74, for a girlfriend at the time..Who incidentally taught me how to use an industrial walking foot machine, she was a fashion student .Her brother was / is the owner of a leather tannery in Pakistan, she sent him a photo, he asked if I'd mind if he made some for some customers, I said no problem, it is still in production..Gave me "intros" everywhere, both to the manufacturers, and to their customers and hence to some designers and bands*.. Then there is the mark up on designer handbags , women's jackets, leather trousers..and let us not forget shoes, where the less leather, the more expensive they are..: ) Lots of us "in the shadows" design, or even make, for the big name designers, brands, labels, very few of them design, make, all that you are told that they do.. Even the ones on the Paris, Rome , London catwalks / runways... Luggage, bags, sacs, apparel, wallets, phone cases, whatever, all got designed by someone..made by someone, in France they call the people who actually do the stitching for the big name designers, "les petites mains"..the little hands, the "name" takes the bows and accolades at the end of the show, but they will have sewn nothing , and frequently designed hardly any of it..There are a few exceptions , who designed everything that bears / bore their name..We lost one such recently..Karl Lagerfeld.. *life is made of these "little things"..:)
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All the best characters wear / wore hats, the two I mentioned above, plus "The Duke" ( both of them ) "George Melly", "pterry", "Clint", "Mr Dundee" ( his was a corker ) , "Bill and Ben" ( of "Bill and Ben" ), Bogie..etc etc.. A hat without stains is like a kiss without a moustache..Ladies, I have the moustache..
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Do you mean "chalky" ? or powdery ?.. "Chalky" would mean it contained Calcite ( Calcium Carbonate, CaCO₃ ) .. Powdery, could be anything, a lot of what get called dyes ( even by their manufacturers ) are actually not, instead they contain precipitated pigments like paints, but more finely grained and dispersed. ps..Why title the post Bill ? I thought it was going to be announcing the death or illness of a member named Bill..There are a few..
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The "flatness" is part of the design..not something done by "service people"..any scratches like you have can alter the sewing characteristics, as even when shallow, they can contribute to fraying of the thread as it passes between them.. Polish them out.. When you cannot see them at all..the discs are good:) Nope, no wear marks on the post..scratches to the discs have been done by someone sanding them ~:o
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Live it.. love it..it's just a raindrop..!! ( liberties taken with the lyrics and tune of ) .. "Living Loving Maid (She's Just A Woman)" (1969) was the "b" side to Led Zeppelin.."Whole lotta love".. single Led Zeppelin II.
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There yah go..Cow hide..matt..probably a split..now the image that you posted just above is easier to see.. If you like it a lot..live with it..wax it.. Only you and we will know about the raindrop.. "This is the mystery of the quotient, quotient / Upon us all, upon us all a little rain must fall / Just a little rain, oh / Ooh, yeah-yeah-yeah" Led Zeppelin..The Rain Song.. Classic..1973*..takes me back :))) Seems to me that Jimmy Page even wore a hat looked something like that ( may have had a feather in it too ) when I saw / heard them play that song live.. Jimi Hendrix had many hats some with conchos, some with scarves.. *Album remixed in 2014
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Shouldn't make hats out of lambskin..I use a lot of lambskin..Garments yes..Chrome tanned smooth buttery feel lambskin..French or Italian.. Hats no..lambskin should be smooth, yours looks rough / matt , ( even on the part that is not marked ) like split skin Pakistani Cowskin.. If it is lambskin, it is not at all a good grade..or..the photos are not great and it is the suede finish of a lambskin, which normally one would only use for making cheap women's tops ( Pakistan uses a low grade top lambskin ( not the suede side ) to make skirts for the South American market )..looks a lot like what you have, sort of "mattish" ..I pay around $2.00 per sq foot maximum for it, use it ' rarely, it is too inconsistent in finish ) for lambskin linings in some things.. Never tried to get any marks out of it.. Good smooth lambskin...Italian or French ..or English.. ( no blemishes at all ) .is around $4.00 to $5.00 per sq foot..1.00 mm to 1.7mm thick .. Again..Good luck :)..If the retailer does take it back you'll probably have to pay each way postage and handling.. Brian ( RockyAussie ) may have some ideas, he may have come across it..The members from OZ should be coming on line about now..03.41 am here..
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For $40.00 retail or ecom, it is a "split" and very likely made in Pakistan or India..( whatever the label might say ) FOB price..ordered in dozens per time , about $7.00 to $10.00 each..the braided band and the medallion would add maybe 50cts to a dollar on it.. Motorcycle bags is another thing that Pakistan and India make out of "splits" to supply the cheapest end of the Western Countries leather market sellers..can't blame them, ( the manufacturers overseas ) they make to the price(s) that the importer wants to pay.. Good luck with "water resistant", that usually would be taken to mean, will not actually dissolve or go "soggy" in a slight drizzle if exposed for less than 10 minutes..Even with wax, it would still pick up marks..If you are tall and big like me ? Maybe no one will ever see the mark..Unless you frequent people who are over 7 feet tall ( and whose eyes would be at around 6'8" ) themselves.. I have a hat with a tiny ( 2mm ) paint spot on the top..Tin lid popped off..paint can go up a long way.. light grey hat, dark grey paint..only I know the spot is there, no-one else that I've met in the last 10 years is big enough to see the top of the hat .. If you do try to treat it, dark brown shows less marks than black because anything slightly "off" from black stands out more than anything slightly "off" from brown..so dying it black would make any marks more apparent..
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Looks like what we'd know as a "split " ( not meaning a tear in the leather , but meaning a non top layer of the skin ) leather can be split into layers, the outside "top" one is the better one to work with, and costs more..the split lower layer left when this has been done is a suede type finish, which looks like what you have..Yours appears to be a dyed black or dark colour "split" leather with a textile band edge ( Pakistani or Indian item ? I have seen them build hats this way for export for many "brands" ) very awkward to get an even colour back when they get marks of any kind..Best you can hope ( IMO ) is to treat all the hat with wax waterproofing, and put any discolouration down to "patina".. Maybe someone else will have another idea..
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Sole stitcher that’ll do double row stitching!
mikesc replied to DavidMillsSaddlery's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
I wasn't sure to be sure*, the words "capitol" and capital" exist in both French and English, and sometimes the "O" is used in French where the "A" would be used in English, and vice versa..My speelchucker underlines every single word I type ..French system and keyboard, ( Linux ) set for French and British English..depending upon the software I'm using some words do not get underlined, when they should, and others do, when they should not...When it is late ( like now ) and the machine and the software ( FF 51 ) start "second guessing me" , sometimes I "correct" and then "re-correct", and then re-re-correct" and then think..Ahhh Crap..I can't remember ( I don't get to use much English these days ) and go back to watching TV and youtube and French news , and a movie..nope... actually it is GOT se8 03 in English..Wow is it ever dark in there !! ) simultaneously on the TV and my 5 other monitors ( here not counting the TV )..Some typos slide by and then slide by again, sometimes I have to edit a post 5 or 6 times..and there'll still be typos, that I won't notice.. Life is too short ;) Anyway, what are you doing posting from the beach ? ..hybrid sheep sharks with frikkin lasers patrolling the shore so you can't go dip your toesies or what ? Enjoy your holiday..( raises glass ..actually poured a leapfrog just to raise it to you there ) ..now relax..If you are watching for my typos, you'll pass up your entire holiday there'll be so many :) Cheers :) *the Irish reason.. ;) ps..Apparently..I can still edit it to read capital A..but that would be cheating..mind that seagull!! ..Do you have seagulls in OZ ?..Ah no...Silly question, belay that..you do , I remember in "Finding Nemo" the rats with wings had OZ accents.. But..do they have pouches? are they dangerous, are they poisonous, like most of the other fauna..? Yes..I know..the stereotypes..Hangs head in shame..;) Would love to visit one day( My Dad did , but to watch Nukes go bang in the desert ..many years ago, Big C got him at 58 years old as a result ) , but distaff side of the family is very leary about what she reads hears about the Arachnida ( Arachnia / Arachnoids ? ) etc .. -
This... especially..always use a separate rag per each "grit"# / polish grade / type or number, a separate buffing wheel per each "grit"# / polish grade / type or number , never mix them up..go from coarse # grade / type / number to fine..never mix the rags or the buffing wheels. To do otherwise lies madness.. ps Oh yes!! I agree 1000 % with that :)..one ( or more ) bobbin cases per thread weight / type ..per machine