mikesc

Compressed air is probably the least energy efficient way to make any tools work, especially if the compressor is electrically driven..Normally compressed air tools are used where one wants to avoid the possibility of sparks from electricity, or "interference" due to sparking..Only reason I can think of that anyone might want one is if they really really wanted a "boss" and they were a lefty, or only had the use of one arm. I think a treadle powered machine makes far more sense if you are off the grid or want mobility. If any variety of Tippmann Boss made sense, the big manufacturers would have made them in large numbers, like they did with treadle powered systems.

Some background on Bata.."interesting" history*.. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bata_(company) The Mickey Mouse boots.. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bunny_boots Their shoes and boots were standard issue for the RAF in the 50s , 60s and 70s ( I don't know about later on ) , well made and solid, with toe caps that you could "bull" to a mirror finish. I don't know if they still make for the UK forces.. *their wartime shoemakers didn't have a lot of choice in the matter..

For most Singer manuals..including the 29K70 go here https://www.singermachines.co.uk/indstbooks.htm https://www.singermachines.co.uk/indstbooks.htm HTH :)

^^^^^That is what my 1st thought was..Move it ( tied onto ) on what I'd call a "sack trolley" as far as the van / pick up truck, slide it in , secure it..easy one person job done that way..Still worth buying an engine crane though..just because :)

So.."stitching" is best pony ? :) Or is uniqorn ..

Considering that these people http://www.camsew.com.au/typical_heavy/typical_gc0617d.html Have it at $1,700.00 + GST... I'd say, if it works and the motor is good ..you got very lucky :) Nice long 8mm stitch length too..and HoHsing ( very good brand ) motor built in ..says 15mm foot lift..it wont stitch through 15mm, but will probably do 9 or 10 mm..Lot of newer machines have the motors built on the end nowadays..Typical sell well in the UK , seem to have a good reputation for budget machines, ( type.. typical sewing uk ) into a search engine and you'll get more info..the company site in China says hand lift 7mm..that might mean that 6mm is all it could run without tweaking to keep the tension on ..but I'd guess nearer 9 mm total..Thread is probably going to max out at 138 bottom and top, with maybe 207 on top and 138 bottom occasionally.. As you'd say ( dikman or Brian will correct me if I'm wrong ) ..Good on ya :)

If it is like this one http://www.leightons.ca/used-landis-strtndl.html http://www.leightons.ca/used-landis-strtndl.html They say that total weight is 510lbs..or just over 230 kilos If you can spilt the head from the base then maybe 250lbs or 115kgs .. "Liftable"* ( depends** how high )..after you get it in your arms, depends how far you are going to walk with it before you put it down..gently.. * is not an actual word, but you get the idea :) **also depends on how big / strong is "a strong ex-football lineman"..a big (ish ) rugby player could do it, if they really wanted the machine :) IIWY..I'd put a lifting belt on anyway..healthier for your back..Maybe you could hire an engine hoist / crane ( or buy one , they do come in handy, I have a folding one in the atelier ( other side of the wall ) about 3 metres from where I'm sitting .

Thanks..I forgot to add the href tags to make them clickable. Btw..If you click on the images on his taobao page ( his page there is not selling much but is for his courses ) each takes you to a page with details ( and more images ) about what you will learn if you take one of his courses..The courses themselves are IMO, very cheap..of course the travel to China and accommodation there are extra..if you email him ( as someone who worked in advertising I'd imagine he speaks, reads and writes English ) he can probably suggest / advise on both travel and accommodation.. Interesting is how few tools you see on the bench in front of him..like photography and other art forms, it isn't the number of tools, nor their brands, that make the masterpiece, the artist is what counts..

All the disks that I've ever seen* , including brand new ones from different manufacturers and suppliers, have slight flats "out of the box".. The reason would be , I presume , to spread the pressure from the "beehive" spring evenly..a flat allows for more adjustment than a round..a round would translate to two very small points of contact with the thread as it passed between the discs of the tension assembly, which would "pinch" it rather than exert tension by "drag" across a the surface of the flats..Force exerted and focused on two points is less adjustable than the same force adjusted over a greater area ( two areas ) as presented by flats.. Note..I don't pretend to have seen all tensions discs from all manufacturers or suppliers, so readily accept that they ( tension discs with no flats ) may exist, and may even be "the norm"..

Thank you for that item ( saves allowing the facebook tracking :)) Sheilajeanne..Agreed, Cai Honghao's work is beautiful . :) http://www.craftsha.co.jp/event_topix/2017/cai2017/honghaocai.html https://tudoudedian.world.taobao.com/ Article in English. http://www.chinadaily.com.cn/weekend/2016-11/26/content_27491432.htm Enjoy :)

Take a walk anywhere that there are deer and you find them when the deer shed their antlers..When they shed depends upon the species and where they are.. You might also look for items in "garage sales" etc, be careful when sanding or otherwise working with antlers and horn, you do not want to breathe any dust created.

Are you certain that you are dealing with leather and not plastic? I ask because the surrounding pieces have a "repetitive" look to their "grain", like PU ..

I didn't for a moment think that you were :) ..I know some of the differences from having lived and worked in the USA..France is still able to surprise me with some of their differences ..and apparently lots of things have changed since I left the UK back in 87.. Work ( practical ) based education , IMO beats theoretical 99% of the time.. Take Granite, someone with a degree in geology could tell us both all about aspects of Granite that we wouldn't necessarily know..But, I know from my practical experience how to sculpt blocks of it, and what tools to use on which Granites, which are suitable for what sculptures or engraving or carving etc..You I know deal with it in slabs, you know from your practical work with it more than I or a geologist about how to cut it, polish it, how to finish it, which types are better for what wear applications..when not to use various types ..I know a guy who is one of the largest suppliers worldwide of Granites, owns major quarries in India, sells slabs and precut counters and "kits" for funeral home and architects, ship large numbers of container loads every month..Doesn't normally "do" sculpture Granite, I wouldn't be "lost" if the two of you were talking, but a large amount of any conversation between the two of you would be way out of my field..I'd be extremely interested though, which is why I read all the threads here, even about stuff that I don't do, probably will never do..it is all interesting.. ps ..in our house, the alcohol comes out at the end of the work or end of the day, or for celebrations..it is nearly 20.00 hrs here..end of the working day for me today, so..I'll raise a glass of Guinness to you :)..Sláinte :)

I think you'll find it is this one https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/store/9203001807-THREAD-GUIDE-SCREW- btw..note it says that it is the same screw for "Needle bar thread guide retaining screw for Adler 367,467,767 machines." You might be able to get one closer to home..someone might have one of those machines and can measure the screw dimensions and thread pitch for you.. College Sewing operate a minimum order amount..I remember it as about €25 or equivalent, so if you get from them you may as well add in any other parts that you'll be wanting to replace / renew..They are very good to deal with..very efficient and helpful.

Bump To Top.. HTH :)

MEKP nope..not the same thing as MEK..the "peroxide" suffix makes all the difference..lot more Oxygen just looking for something to react with, or just to go "boom..the "peroxide part is a suffix in the name..but is actually two Oxygen atoms in the middle of the molecules of "peroxides".. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peroxide The one ( peroxide ) that almost everyone knows of..and probably has some in the kitchen / bathroom / garage.. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydrogen_peroxide Hydrogen peroxide produced many "bottle blondes"..as they used to be known when I was a lad..and saw a resurgence with the punks. MEKP https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Methyl_ethyl_ketone_peroxide The MEKP that we use in resin work ( as a catalyst ) is "diluted" to make it less likely to react / go boom... Nastily irritant, dangerous stuff, nevertheless..but at least you don't have to worry about jogging the bottle.. Whereas Acetone peroxide ( do not try to make it at home or anywhere else ) is the favourite of suicide bombers.. Highly unstable..

Methylene chloride is evil stuff..I can vividly remember the sting of the chemical burns from it from splashes onto my hands and wrists..left no scars fortunately, other scars, but none from that...used to be in quite a lot of things ..like "polystripper".. Another who has worked, works with large quantities of ( boats, custom bikes and cars, and sculptures ) resin ( poly and epoxy ) ..aahh "the smell of styrene in the morning"..the joys of Cyanoacrylates and catalised two part "clear coats" that have made it through the masks and respirators....leather and thread is a lot more friendly.. :)

Front end of a lot of snakes is pretty toxic too :) and the front end of Crocs..usually fatal .. But..we're talking about Australia..so ..most of the fauna and flora is out to get you.. to return to the subject.. I've got quite a few cobra items, one in particular is a briefcase / writing case made ( outside covering of skins over wooden briefcase box shell ) from 5 heads ( 5 separate sets of "spectacle" patterns ) and skins..it's about 70 years old or maybe older, skins are stuck on and trimmed..they are thin..very thin..from where I did a small repair ( one was coming away at a corner ) I'd say , only about a half of a millimetre thick, if that..The skins have no "backing" of any other leather, and no coating of polyurethane or anything else, as far as I can tell they were just oiled.. I bought it for €5.00 ( in near perfect condition ), in a local "brocante" ( car boot sale / garage sale ) about 4 years ago, apart from that slightly lifted corner the skins are intact, no damage at all, but were a little dry..It looked like a child had scribbled a few biro ink lines on the thin pigskin lining of the box, I was able to get those off in about 15 minutes..The seller had no idea that they had a valuable "piece", and, fortunately, neither did any one else.. :) I rejuvenated the cobra skins with a light coat ( rubbed in in the direction of the scales, which one can feel easily ) of neatsfoot oil and glycerine ( 50/50 ), let it dry, gave it another treatment..that is it. Had some other similar "finds" at brocantes..most people cannot tell fake snake skin from real , if you can you can get some real bargains..likewise with Croc..picked up various items in Croc and other Crocodilia..all real..each time the sellers did not know..I did not tell them . :)

Mineral spirits in Europe is denatured alcohol or methylated spirits, which is a totally different molecular mixture ( compound ) from white spirit.. Denatured alcohol..(is ethanol mixed with other things to stop people from drinking it as "untaxed alcohol ) ..Denatured alcohol in Europe is near enough pure alcohol..in the USA and Canada is can be only around the 50% alcohol..the other ingredients ( in the USA and Canada it contains methanol ) mean it will probably kill you.. But the US and Canada calls white spirit mineral spirit..white spirit is actually a naptha..a petroleum distillate..a substitute for turpentine..it is a kind of light kerosine. Two countries ( three including Canada which follows US practice fro these solvents ) divided by a common language.. re ecotalk from whom you quoted in bold, large type and even multicoloured type..all of that does not detract from them being wrong.. ecostalk is incorrect in their definition of denatured alcohol in their paragraph immediately above the one you quoted ..they say .. "Denatured Alcohol is a combination of two substances: Ethyl Alcohol or Ethanol, which is basically drinking alcohol, and an additive chemical." Note the "contains two substances"..they then go on to mention that it also contains dyes ( which means that obviously it has more than two substances, unless dyes are not substances, which they indeed are ) .. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Denatured_alcohol note the section "formulations"..they ( what goes into denatured alcohol ) vary between the USA and Europe..but..in each case, there are more than two substances..Websites such as ecotalk are set up to get ad money ecotalk also says "Denatured alcohol can be used as a fuel for oil heaters which burn more cleanly than other traditional fossil fuels. The flame burns so cleanly that it is almost clear, letting off very little smoke and visible carcinogens into the air." . "Visible carcinogens ? ..What difference to a cell that may be triggered into cancerous activity does it make if the carcinogens are visible, or invisible..! They also do not check their supposedly expert advice for basic typos which their spell checker would flag..in a reply by them in their comments "it should be fine to use diluted mehtylated spirits for light cleaning" ..I make typos( more than most because my system is not in English, so it underlines everything, or nothing ) ..but I go back and correct them..especially if they are chemical names. Their website is written by non experts, who do not have qualifications in chemistry, ..Mine ( University degree..Chemistry* ..and some others in Art..chemistry is very useful for an art restorer ) was obtained in 1976.. Their website is designed primarily to get search engines to rank them highly on their supposed "expertise" and when you click through to them from SERPs, you are supposed to click on their ads "provided by Google"..their ad code is "ca-pub-8092381479390639", they are also an Amazon affiliate..The site runs on wordpress with various "plugins" and is running a variant of woo commerce..It is what SEOs call an MFA..( made for adsense ) no expertise required ..merely copy and paste ( with an occasional "re-spin" ) what they find elsewhere.. The author says that they are a product designer.. They also do not present me with a GDPR notice ( which they must, by law, to any visitors from the EU ) when I arrive at the site..despite them claiming to respect "privacy"..Google will not allow one to run adsense if one does not have a"privacy policy page"..Their privacy policy is untruthful, they say "This website does not share any personal information with third parties."..It does..it shares PII ( personally identifiable information ) with both Google and Amazon .. So..they do not tell the truth, they are an MFA, ( despite them saying that the site is for them "to learn" ) and they do not know what they are talking about, their content ( taken from elsewhere ) is only designed for you to click out from the site as fast as you can once you have arrived there, in order to earn them money from the adsense or affiliate click. Wikipedia is a better source of information about chemistry..despite the fact that anyone can edit it, it is also watched over by people with qualifications and expertise in the relevant fields.. Chemical formula are the same in any language..like mathematical equations, what we call ( in layman's terms ) the chemicals, can and does, vary so much around the world ( even when using the same language ) that "for example" if you "dilute / thin", with "mineral spirits", your "mineral spirits" will likely not be exactly the same as mine, nor anyone who lives in another country..and this "international" site, leatherworker.net does have visitors and members from many countries. * I've mentioned them before here as many of us have skills , experience or qualifications that are relevant to many subjects that come up..Degrees do not mean that one "knows it all", but on very technical subjects like chemistry and many others, they do indicate that others ( experts in the field ) have examined ones knowledge and / or ability and said yes they do know what they are talking about on that and related subjects..A bit like driving tests, unless one has a licence for motorcycles, "stick shift" and articulated trucks ( the big ones ) ..one should not make a website about how to drive them.. btw..it could be that "mineral spirits" is not the current term in the UK..I haven't bought any there for over three decades..here we call methylated spirits "alcool à bruler" and "white spirit" ( what you call "mineral spirits" ) is "white spirit"..you'd expect it to be spirit blanc or spirit blanche ( depending on if they decide it is masculin or feminine ..male or female** ) ..but no despite being France and supposedly avoiding using English words..They use the English words..although there are at least 5 kinds of "white spirit" available all of which have other names too :) ** Do not ask me or any French person why something inanimate is male or female..there is no reason, it just is..and sometimes it changes , depending upon if you have more than one of them, and where you are..

Boat Drinks ? :)

That MEK substitute ( Kleanstrip ) is ( according to it's MSDS ) Ethyl acetate..yes it would work for washing down and prepping polyester, melting or "welding" some plastics etc.. But, as a thinner for anything that is normally thinned with Butanone, not so good, it might well have a tendency to go somewhat "stringy"..depends what is in the "adhesive / glue / cement"..Acetone is better if you have no Butanone / MEK ..But Acetone will evaporate faster than Butanone.. I'm always amazed at what you can just walk in and buy in large ( ish ) quantities in the USA without having to sign a "poisons register" or otherwise leave a trace of who buys large amounts of things that can be mixed to go bang spectacularly..or as accelerants, or as solvents for things that can get you into trouble..France is similar.. :) Btw..Think of your local fire service..if you are keeping things that can go bang, or are dangerous around, let them know where you store the stuff*....that way..if you have a fire, they are forewarned, it can keep them from being injured or worse.. * I count ammunition as something to let them ( the fire service ) know about in case of a fire too..But not everyone does..

https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/85867-contact-adhesives/ The MSDS for the Barge "universal" thinner says it is Methyl ethyl ketone.. So.."Mineral spirits" which is denatured alcohol..probably isn't going to work.. Acetone should should work, test some first..( the Barge website lists many products, you don't say which you have ) take all the usual precautions re flame , flash points, handling , eye protection etc..the vapours of acetone are bad for you..you do this at your own risk etc etc.. Btw..Methyl Ethyl Ketone is also know as Butanone https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Butanone Read the wikipedia page..you may have some around but under another name ..look at what you have..then look up the MSDS..look for ( use the "find" control usually under "edit" in your pdf reader and type Methyl Ethyl Ketone..hit enter, if any solvent that you have is actually Butanone or Methyl Ethyl Ketone, it will find where it mentions it in the MSDS for what you have.. HTH :)

Greg, could one not use a solenoid ( electric ) foot lifter ? I have an EFKA speed controller NPS on a Juki DLU 490-4 , the machine also has a separate solenoid mounted under the table to activate the foot lift ("heel back" on the foot pedal activated for the foot lift solenoid ) and a small "paddle control" just to the right of the needle to activate reverse as well as the usual second smaller pedal ( next to the speed pedal ) reverse system ..( There's load of stuff in the way or I'd take a photo ) ..Makes a definite "click" when the solenoid fires for up or down, but less noisy than having a compressor running for air controls.. It is an old EFKA unit ( looking for information about it and the machine was what brought me to leatherworker.net..Eric kindly pointed me towards the mechanic's manual for the machine, as you know top and bottom differential feed ..He figured that from my description of the noise from the EFKA that it is tired :) ..but as I only use it occasionally I am in no hurry to change it..As you say, EFKAs can be dialled down to run very slow, I added "bump stops" under the speed pedal to limit the top speed by limiting the pedal "travel", and a child's inflatable ball to give air resistance under the same pedal to allow a more progressive throttle.. It isn't quite as slow as running a servo with a reducer ( like my Singer 211 set up ) but is easily controllable..although EFKAs are more expensive, I see many more people in Europe using them on the older machines.. I know that Tor swears by Efkas, and he runs some heavy machines..could well be a good controllable set up for the 7-34.

My speelchucker says Hi! to your speelchucker.. :)) or You are DT..and I claim my $5.00 :)

Thread..phone these people..ask who is their nearest stockist to you.. http://www.amannusa.com/serafil.html Oil.."white" sewing machine oil..also called vaseline oil. Enjoy your new machine :)