mikesc

The thicker part may be to give it some extra weight in just one place so as to increase the inertia going over the top of the revolution, that would in crease the force when the needle is going through..As long as you set it on the machine so that the thicker heavier part is just past TDC ( top dead centre ) as the needle is "striking through"..just before the needle point gets level with the feed dogs ( say 5mm above them ) on the down stroke..

Looks perfect..the problem is ?

It has a look of a 1950's Mercedes about it..so yes, probably Adler :)

Sheila..if you do get the patcher..the top ( machine head ) is attached to the treadle stand via 4 small screws that go upwards through the base table , one into each "leg" of the machine base ( the part with the big Singer Monogram ) right next to the slot that the belt comes up through..Undo these 4 screws..( put them somewhere safe, they are "unobtanium" ) ..then you can lift the top of it's base..The drawer also slides completely out. Like wise these machines are threaded down through the barrel where the needle and "jump foot" are..the thread is pushed down by using what looks like a long thing steel strip with a tiny notch in the end..this item is also made from "unobtanium"..although if it is missing you can make one with a very thin bicycle spoke. If you are manoeuvring this thing down a flight of stairs ( with or without a three wheel trolley )..wrap the head in some blankets and pillows..that way if you do"knock" it..you are less likely to break anything off.. If you "test before you buy"..take a piece of 2oz leather..the machine should stitch between 4 and 5 stitches to the inch in 2oz..when they are worn, the stitches get shorter..it may only do 7 to 9..Still "buyable"..the worn parts can be replaced or repaired..The hooks f are frequently worn and may miss a stitch, the end of the hook gets "rounded" when they are worn, new hooks are not very expensive..about $40.00 from College sewing in UK..maybe parts available in the USA too.. Btw..As you are into shoes and sandals..these are not Roman, nor Italian, but French, St Tropez ( we had a shop at Port Grimaud , just across from St Tropez, and used to supply clothing to some shops there, had a stall on the market there too ) ..This company is probably the most famous leather sandales* shop in France / St Tropez..Rondini..been making them since 1927 https://boutique.rondini.fr/en/women-sandals-7 Site is also in English, so I linked to that version.. Item about them in one of our national newspapers/ magazines..article is short ( "pay walled" after the initial paragraph ) in French.. https://www.lepoint.fr/villes/la-guerre-des-tropeziennes-28-07-2018-2239778_27.php

Ken..umm.. The machine in the OP is a side loader, you can see that clearly in the second and third pictures..especially the third image..the hook is at the left side of the picture, on the usual place for a side loader..on the end of the shaft that runs along the middle of the bed..

Beautiful machines :) re your husband..he sounds like he might be related to my wife..there was a time I had seven industrial machines ( each on their tables ) in our living room, including a singer patcher on the treadle base that she regularly walked into, it is about twice her weight, hardly ever complained..just accepted them until I was able to build them an atelier..I still have one industrial and three domestic machines in the living room, and 7 computers, each with their own large monitor ..I think you and I got lucky in the "spousal draw" :)

Superb ! Thank you for the image of the "pre-coloured" version, it has a beauty all of it's own :)

Mizzy, those are gorgeous KevinKay..sewing machines ( and rebuilds of them ) are always interesting.

If it is only for practice sewing, cutting etc ....unless you are looking to try practising carving / tooling ? ..I'd buy splits..waaay cheaper.. Maybe add in a piece of the better stuff from their scraps / clearance bin so that you'll be able to put into practice what you learned on the splits..

This :)

Not being in the USA, I don't know either your paints nor your dyes ( but, the reason I asked was so that others , ( who might know them ) could advise..But..I do know ( from the MSDS ) that resolene is a water based clear resin..so applying it pure ( neat ) to the areas that you want to paint, should seal in the dyes ( clear acrylic resin is another name for acrylic sealer ) ..Let it dry well ( at least 24 to 48 hours.than paint your white over it. ABHandmade ::waves:: ( who I think has used the paints that you mention , I see has posted while I was typing) so..he may well have advised.. :)

What was/were the dye(s ) ( brand etc ) and what was the paint ( brand etc ) specifically.. Normally if you are going to paint over dye, to be safe ( especially with white over strong colour dyes ) you'd want to seal the dye first..with acrylic sealer.

Someone here's "sig" ..Art' maybe ?..I think..? is "For heavens sake Pilgrim, make yourself a strop".. First leather thing to make yourself is a strop...no matter what you may wish to make as the second thing, or subsequent things.. :) Oh and you'd best get a stock of bandaids and some super glue..to seal the inevitable cuts in you, while you are discovering just how wickedly sharp you can get things with a strop :)

Someone who has one with ( or which had "air reverse" ) would know better than I..I'd guess ( and it really is a guess ) that you ought to be able to remove the air system and use it as "push down on the reverse lever bar at the front of the machine for reverse" fairly easy..But..we can't see the back of the machine, to see what the "air reverse" system entails.. Pics of the back of the machine, and of the back of "under the table" would help.. Air systems are noisy ( as are the compressors, unless you spend a great deal of money for a silent one big enough to run that )..and are only normally used in high volume fast sewing situations..like factories.

It is better for curves..

IIWY, I'd add some internal dividers* in a row, ( in the manner of those in cigar holders built for two or more cigars ) to stop the pens rattling around in there, scratching each other's casings, and possibly leaking ( due to being horizontal or inverted during transport )..some leather cylinders stood next to each other in a row, and stuck in with contact adhesive ( it works even if you cant pre-coat both surfaces ) would work.. *One pen per cylinder.. maybe even leave some space at one end of the pen case for erasers or a small sheet of folded blotting paper, I'd be a little worked about that "clear" edge or band on the outside of the case, eventually getting inky or dirty? is it sealed ?** A version with "tooling"/"carving" in place of where the black panels are would be interesting..and allow for "monogramming/ personalisation"..Exclusive "one off" "Gift"..sell nicely , especially pre-Christmas, or Mothers day, or Fathers day, present for writer or artist. Curiosity..The pens..for writing, or sketching, or both ? ** I didn't watch the youtube..I have too many tabs open ( 1500+ ) in this browser ATM to "allow youtube" and risk crashing the browser with all that scripting..already have "here" allowed, which is "tempting fate" ..

I "converted" your .heic image to .jpeg.. .heic is a new format..used at the moment mainly by Apple on iphones..most browsers, and many websites, cannot use it at the moment..If you want to post .heic, it is necessary to convert it to .jpeg before uploading the image(s)

Umm, maybe it is one of "those monitor things" where colours look different on different monitors ?.. But I don't see any red there..I see a blue / green, a white and a yellow, ( with a black band running from top bottom of the right hand side ) all the coloured squares have "ragged " edges, but within those edges, all 3 colours look "even", no lumps or more "saturated" spots.. ?

You need to contact a theatrical or movie costume maker, plenty of them in your area..and tell them that you need a leather panel wet forming / molding that will be attached to a leather dress.. Not that you need "someone to wet form a leather dress"*..as per your post title.. :) That is possible, but , not everyone can do it, although in your area there will be some who can do an entire dress, which is what your original title suggests that you were trying to find, However, when one reads further than the title of the post, and gets to the to the content of your post your precise needs become much more clear.. :) A tip..if you are looking for specialist services, it pays to be very clear, such as are you supplying the leather, are you supplying the item that it will be formed over, do you require the leather to be a particular colour, or finish, or weight, etc etc ..What depth of forming ..and so on.. HTH :) Ps..If you are successful in finding someone, it would be interesting if you came back and posted about it, with images if possible :) Pps..you might also try leather mask makers..the technical expertise to mold a leather mask well , is similar ( but not identical ) to that required to mold a leather panel for inclusion on a leather dress..You might also try searching the forum for "Azmal" or "Prince" , he may be out your way, and can certainly do what you require, if he is interested and has the time..But he is justifiably not cheap.. *forming a leather dress" may well suggest to some that the work is in the sphere of BDSM, which may make some "pass on by", and not click on your title to see what you actually are looking for..Might somewhat explain why you have only two replies to date..

You want completely even over areas like 7 x7 ..( you mean centimetres ( cm ) ? ; because 7 x 7 millimetres (mm) is tiny.. 7x7 mm , to get even colouring with acrylics or any colouring type is easy..just make the leather a little damp ( not enough to "case" it ) before you paint the acrylics on.. Btw..you don't say what kind of "acrylics" ..they are not all the same..not all are suitable for leather.. If your squares are 7 cm x 7cm ? the only way you are going to get truly "even coverage" with any acrylics, is with an airbrush and masking off the squares that you do not want to colour..

The Celtic knots ( 242 Series ) ..Very Very nice :) A suggestion if I may..it would be worth creating a "corner stamp" for the Celtic Knots range. so as to avoid the "line break(s)" when turning the border through 90 degrees..as in your image of #242 B.. Just visited your https://leatherstampstools.com/ Intriguing reference there to your "carving patterns book"...I also noticed that you give credit to Gregory Belenky for his stamp designs..As a designer I am extremely happy to see that..kudos to you Sergey :)) so few people remember to credit others for their contributions in design.. :)

Websites with the domain name get bought and sold all the time ( to sell the site with the name, you just copy the site, or download it via FTP and the new owner uploads the copy or the zip "archive" of the complete site, "unzips" on their host's server, "points" the domain name to their host's "name server" creates the site email addresses as per your list..and Voila ! :) Domain names are sold on their own too, but as you already have a site with examples..If I were you, I'd sell the complete package..it is worth more as a package " ready to work " than the domain name is on it's own.. :) Think of it like selling a house..or selling the same house with all the furniture ready to live in.. Or, as it is a business. Think of it like selling the "shop" ( empty , but with the sign over the door ) = Domain name only.. or, Selling the same shop, with the sign over the door, and everything inside, fully equipped to be in business the moment the new owner has paid the money and you have given them the keys to the place..= Domain name and Website as a package. HTH :)

You are lucky, again :) ..I'm certain that my machine feet are taking "the scenic route" from China via "wherever" to get here..20 days and counting :(

Umm , Fred..Hong Kong ( the ebay ad that you linked to says they are made there ) isn't in Taiwan.. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20pcs-Carving-Working-Saddle-Making-Tools-Leather-Craft-Tools/273593838549 I hope you wont be disappointed. China ( PRC ) does make some very good stuff, but rarely is it very very cheap.. I find "interesting" that Ebay allows the seller to say that the goods are in Ireland From the ebay ad.. Item location: Ireland, Ireland But his address is in Kowloon Bay Hong Kong, which when you look at the shipping times..appears to be where the items being sold, are truly located. We all get caught out..I am currently waiting for a set of three edge guide feet for my Singer 211 to arrive ..supposedly in stock in California and supposedly being shipped from same..ordered 29th May 2019 ..being shipped by China post ;) , estimated delivery between 06.06.2019 and 26.06.2019..I'm betting that when / if, they arrive, they will have been shipped from PRC or Hong Kong.. At least with Tao Bao or Alibaba, you know the real sender's location "up front"..

You'd have to set "reserve prices" ( prices below which you do not / will not sell ) for each item, otherwise you'd go broke.. We / you, do not want that.. :) Reading what shoepatcher said about the weaver "auction.. It sounds like some of what they have is not "auction" ( highest "bid" wins the lot ), but is "sale", or "reduced" to clear..