mikesc

"market place" is on the front page of the forum, scroll down the page until you get to "market place" and then look for "items for sale"..you need to click "machinery, sewing and stitching".. Or..click here https://leatherworker.net/forum/forum/82-machinery-sewing-and-stitching/ Then decide which of the two categories applies to the machine that you want to sell..click that one.. Then when the page opens..click the button marked "start new topic".. Then post your description, with some photos that you have "shrunk" using the instructions in the page that Tom showed you.. Oh and if it says do you want to be notified of replies" ..click "yes"..so you'll know if there is any interest..

The name is good..descriptive.. I'd say the worth will depend on if you are selling the domain with the name..because of the "backlinks", which if they are not all to the home page , any which are to other pages will be lost without the domain.. Reputation..says over 10 thousand customers..many military..goodwill and good reputation should be OK and worth something.. As to the site itself, old school ( tables ) ..but very light weight..good..especially for mobile ( which is 95% of all users / potential customers, nowadays..smartphone is king ) home page code is around 13k , Very good loads very fast..Images are well optimised..total in the home page slide show comes in just over 200k..very good.. .I'm not in the market to buy a that site or domain name, but I wish you success Robert, both in the sale, and in a happy retirement.. * Just checked on mobile, I had not done so before, I was just looking at the very light code, and thinking, Fast....the site does break, on a phone, in portrait view some of the navigation disappears off to the right, but horizontal on tablet should be OK..So that ought to be addressed, but, to change what is currently a very simple site built in tables to fully responsive ( divs and CSS, and make the nav bigger etc **) would not take long at all, anyone mentions it in order to "negotiate" the price, only consider adjusting the price of the site by 5% max. ** There are ready made free ( as in Beer ) bootstrap code examples that any web dev could drop your site into and have it looking like it does now, and responsive on phones and tablets..with not a great deal of work. Clarification..I'm not "making a pitch" to "redo" your site.. :) I don't "do" / "code" other people's sites..

Same here..wonderful company and people to deal with..special mention to Dave :)

Worth the wait, that is a Lulu of a collar :)

If it were me, I'd go direct to CNC..The risk of a nylon part breaking during work and ruining the work itself , would not be worth it..to me.. But, nothing holding either of you back, using plastic for prototyping is one of the major benefits of 3D printers, but making / using parts that will actually be used in production, where the original part would be metal and meshing with other metal like gears...not a risk that I'd take, like I said above, almost all modern domestic sewing machines use nylon gears, and with threads other than 45 ( which is what they are designed to run ) the gears strip fast..and that is nylon on nylon..Whereas being used as replacements as per Chris's idea in his OP, the gear would be meshing with the metal gear rails..The reason that most people who do a lot of sewing ( and especially those who move into leather work ) move on to industrials, or old cast iron machines ( both zig - zag and straight stitch ) is that the plastic / nylon gears strip on their domestics as soon as they try running 69 more than occasionally..Nylon is very soft compared to metal, I think that the two gear rails would chew it up very fast.. However if the pair of you are going to try it as an experiment What it has made me think of , is that I should get some replacement metal parts made for mine ..and to keep looking out for additional Adler and Singer Patchers here, I can always stash them with a neighbour until I can make space for them, next to the cylinder arm that I've got to make space for in order to be able to buy it..I may have to extend the atelier..again..or..build another living room so as to be able to take over the current one for sewing machines, thus freeing up more space in the atelier for other things.. It is either that or make an offer for the semi-ruined villa on the land next to our garden..

Yes, I'll grant you all of those points, but..bear in mind, if a nylon part is going to be made from a metal one, the metal one has to be perfect, unused, or, the nylon part will come with built in wear..and will last even less long..I don't think any of us has a perfect unused" gear from a 29K.. If anyone has, it would be better , IMO, to make a replacement in metal..Some parts ( I think even some gears for 29Ks ) are already available in metal..not used..

Domestic sewing machines ( modern ones, almost all brands, even the ones that cost more than an industrial clone, use nylon gears ) which is why they don't last long, and break, especially when sewing thicker than 69...many don't much like 69 ( most are not happy sewing with thicker than 45 )..nice thought though. :)

I can see two screw / nail heads there , and some sort of block around the leg to the left of the band, that the screw there appears to be fixed into, probably the leg that we can't see ( at the point where it is attached ) also has a "block" and a screw or nail too..May be a bit more complex ( but still "do-able" ) than at first sight.

It is an Apple format, used in recent iphones..only half the data size of jpeg.. Converted HTH :)

The wooden mallet ( toy croquet mallet ) in the kit that the OP linked to is all I need to see.. It says Run Away!!! Fast !!! And then , like bikermutt07 says..look around here / read here for a few weeks.. Each time you want to find out about something type this next line into Google, exactly like it is..But where I typed the word something you put the word or words that you are interested in.. site:leatherworker.net something The way works is the site: part says "restrict the search to the website that comes after the" : The site ( in this case ) is leatherworker.net Then there is a space like t his That says the next word or words after the space are what I'm searching for Works for any website Begin with this one..Happy searching :) HTH :)

For now..but as a result of "recent trade disputes with the USA"..Chinese companies are looking ( and finding ) more "stable" partners..Beginning with Telecoms equipment ( Huawei's deal with Russia, and pending deals with various EU countries ) ..China is all about "stability", they can ( and do ) turn off the supply of things ( or increase the export prices ) to countries that they do not consider to be stable partners.. The supply of "Rare Earths" is a lever that they have recently begun to apply pressure on..Taps, Dies, Nuts , Bolts, and so on that the USA and Canada needs to buy from them, could be a very effective additional lever, such items may yet see their export prices rise , or delays in orders get longer.."trade pressure" can be applied in many ways..including "both ways".

Most domestic sewing machines ( even the highly expensive , ( more more expensive than many new industrial machine clones ) , versions of Pfaff, Janome etc ) here are sold by shops who sell vacuum cleaners and steam irons..Their idea of servicing and even of parts stocking, is a bad joke..

Here they ( the indelible markers .. including Sharpie ) all say that they are water based..maybe with around 30% to 70% ( in the latter case it is indeed more true to say they are alcohol based ) isopropyl alcohol..But they are all far from UV fast.. You see now, that is indeed the luck of the Irish living in Ireland :) Here, in Brittany ( despite being Irish ) if I want "indelible", it is black, blue, red, green, purple occasionally.

I feel your pain Tom.. Speaking of sets of taps and dies..Whoever makes and sells a set of Singer tools ( including taps and dies for the old ones ) will get my business ( and I think, that of many others ) , problem is that Singer seem to have changed their threads "back in the day" depending on the weather.

Europe being a bigger market, the Chinese and the Indians ( who Europe, the USA, Canada? Australia , New Zealand, Africa, South America, Russia, Polynesia etc etc * ) get most of their manufactured goods from, will eventually make all metric..The reason an 11mm will fit over a 10 mm and "confuse" is because metric nuts and bolts "increment" in smaller "jumps" ( millimetres ) than imperial nuts and bolts..which tend to go up in "eighths"..which are each around three times bigger than a millimetre..I have tools for all kinds of systems ( comes from owning old classic and vintage motorcycles and cars )..one can never have too many tools :) Could be worse.. Singer threads, nuts, bolts and screws.. * Some states, regions and countries left out for brevity..

Depends on the colour they want Fred..Black is no problem ( although it does wear off and fade, any exposure to UV or daylight fades sharpies in particular very fast* ) other colours in "indelible", need to go to an office supply store..Colours tend to be black, red, blue, green..occasionally purple Btw most "indelible" markers are water based, and are probably a version of extremely fine ground pigments in an acrylic liant / base. I used a black Sharpie to mark our address on a new "wheelie bin" ( got it too late in the day to break out the paint ) , forgot about it..two weeks later it had faded to be unreadable..this is far from the sunniest part of France.

Whether you can paint plastic..and have the paint actually stay on..including using acrylic paint.. Depends entirely on what kind of "plastic" its is.. Standard Acrylics ( such as those sold in Artist's Supply shops ) will peel right off ABS, Polyester, Polypropylene, HDPE, LDPE, and most other plastics..unless you use a "prep"coat", or an "etch wash".. I used to have a custom painting business, painted more "plastics" and more types of "plastics" than I care to remember.. Are you painting the actual phone ..or a "bumper", or the silicone surround that you get in some "off the shelf phone cases", the part that slips over and around the phone..if it is the latter, nothing will stick and stay on..If it is the former ( a plastic part of the phone ) then "two pack vehicle industrial paint" will work..or "industrial vehicle paint base coat", which is usually matte, and then a top coat of sprayed "two pack industrial vehicle paint clear" ..They won't "build up" very well on leather however.. But, if you want to stay away from those ( they are toxic, and you'll need to use a toxic vapour mask , even if spraying with an airbrush ) and use something with a bit more "build up" like a normal leather edge paint..Most of which are "Acrylics" with adjustments to their "binders".. You can also try Tamiya paint for plastic models ( it will eventually wear off the plastic, especially if the plastic flexes ) , or almost any other Plastic model paint that says Acrylic .. There is one Acrylic paint that is sold for artists that can be used to build up on leather edges, and in the version sold for airbrush artists can be sprayed on to plastic and will hold ( but still not as well as "two pack" ), but you need to sand the plastic to provide a "mechanical key" with say 800 or 1000 grit "wet and dry"..or use a red scotch brite pad to do similar sanding of your plastic.. Liquitex.. It comes in tubes..( too thick to use for leather edges or plastic, and almost impossible to "thin" consistently ) sold for artists...and for your purposes, it is also sold in "liquid version" for airbrushing ( this version can be much harder to find ) ..This is the version that can be sprayed onto "some plastics" ( it sticks well on PVC ) and that may ( I have never tried it ) work as an "edge paint" on leather.. Any plastic has to be "degreased" ( cleaned of fingerprint marks and fingerprint "oils" etc ) first, if not paint ( acrylic or otherwise )wont adhere evenly ( even temporarily ) initially ..Most "plastic" is coloured when it is made..That which isn't , can be coloured ( like car bumpers and panels, bike fairings etc ) but requires the kind of preparation products and paints that are"pro use" only, because they are expensive, and toxic, and require specific preparation and safety procedures and products to use.. If what you are trying to paint is a plastic part of the phone or a silicone "surround" bumper, it would be easier and cheaper to buy one that is the correct colour, or close to it. Even sprayed on Liquitex will easily scratch off and wear off plastic..it hold a bit better on PVC..but can still be scratched off with a finger nail. IIRC..The actual surround on an iphone is anodised aluminium*, with a glass front and back "slab" *real "fun" to get any kind of paint to adhere to, requires epoxy based primers, etch wash, and two part catalised top coat, non of which are at all "friendly" to humans..

Been trying to find where I have put some of my tools, but, due to being in the middle of a "design space" redesign, I can't put my hands on what I was looking for..However a few minutes searching online , and I found what they are called , and a supplier in the USA..Well just a little north of the USA..:) So..if you are going "seriously tiny", you might want to try using these ( they work like a very very small swivel knife ) they wont cut deep, because the blade is so small, and they can be " honed, but it is awkward to do because of their size..anyway replacement blades are cheap, as are the blade holders / knives..You can do really tiny work with them, you can see "down past" the knife easier than with a full size swivel knife, and they let you run curves , spirals, intricate stuff, with a very similar action to the one that you use for "normal" size swivel knife work.. I used to use them for hand cutting stencil film for silk screen..then thought one day that they'd be ideal for filigree and carving work..on really thin leather ..or for really shallow, small work.. They are made by X-Acto ( and others ) ..here is one place that you can get them online.. This is the blade holder / knife..$8.75 each..I think that they price in USD ? http://www.signcraftersupply.com/component/virtuemart/?page=shop.browse&category_id=2370 This is a pack of blades that it uses..$3.75 per pack of 3 ..I think they price in USD ? http://www.signcraftersupply.com/component/virtuemart/?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=3259&category_id=2370 You may be able to find them nearer to home..that site is in Canada. They are fairly easy to find in Europe..some hobby / craft shops have them, most silkscreen supply shops do.. HTH :) Then you'll have to make / buy some miniature bevelling tools and stamps..If making your own, threaded stainless steel bars can have their ends re-worked as bevellers and stamps, the threads above the "working part" help for grip, if you want to "soften the feel" , heat shrink tube over the threads will do that..or you could make them tiny leather sleeves :) Interesting, now the IPS board system adds in an "external nofollow" even when I leave it out of links, yesterday it didn't, for a while.. Btw..In case you are thinking that those blades won't cut deep enough..as immiketoo says.."cut less, bevel more"..you don't always need to cut deep to be able to bevel for definition or design..Cutting too deep is frequently the problem, unless you are doing filigree..

Just a test .. https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/67110-will-the-150-chinese-servo-motors-from-ebay-work-on-an-old-adler-68/ OK tested..it seems happier if I leave out the "external nofollow"..which normally , when I link on my own sites , I would never use nofollows, I only include them here because most of the links in source code that I've seen here have had them nofollowed ..( apparently the IPS board software rewrites them that way ) ..so..I thought when adding HTML tags by hand.."when in Rome"..But checking your edit to the source code..and my link in my last post..the external nofollow is not present, even though I included it..So possibly on links within the same site it gets stripped, or maybe there has been a "silent upgrade" that strips it.. Either way I'll leave it off in future..and try to remember to test my posted links.. The "nested and re-nested quote" divs that the board software puts in each time I edit a post are the ones that catch me out unless I anticipate and strip them.. :) Now..back to pulleys and speed reducers ( I make my own speed reducers with combinations of bearings , shafts and "bought" pulleys at 5:1 ) ..making pulleys I'd need a lathe, and space for a lathe for.. :(

After I posted it..Tom fixed it..( apparently it wasn't working when I initially posted it..I hadn't noticed ) I haven't touched, nor tried it since, Tom's edit.. But ..here it is again..working and tested .. https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/67110-will-the-150-chinese-servo-motors-from-ebay-work-on-an-old-adler-68/ It's not the keyboard* that gives me problems with links and other HTML code :) ..it is that I have to add the HTML link code and any other HTML code like quotes manually,..You, if you are logged in can do it by clicking.. But if I log in , the site here crashes my browser FF after a short time because it uses "push scripts" that my tweaked browser rejects..when it does the scripts repeat until I get a crash..I could fix it at my end, but I'd have to recode some add ons that I use ( in particular some that I wrote ) , and it isn't a priority ATM..My add ons ( and those of many other devs, some of which I also use ) won't work on new Firefox ( which uses the same system as Chrome and Edge ) ..I ( and many others ) prefer to keep my ( our ) system(s) secure and "tweakable" than to have it ( them ) running the new "locked down" Googly tainted Firefox..It makes FF as vulnerable as Chrome or Edge to the same exploits written to attack their now shared add on system.. * The keyboard , and running a hybrid French English Linux system which thinks some words are incorrectly spelled gives me more typos that I have to correct..as you have noticed :) I noticed Wiz posted whilst I was typing ..thanks Wiz :)..my edit window on my original post was long past when I read dikman's post..

The problem with Imperial,is that it is inconsistent, it changes it's base multiplier or divider depending on "the size"..or "the thing".. 1000 thou' per inch..or 8 eighths or ( "this many" "whatevers" per inch ) ... and then it changes again when going from (12 )inches to a foot ,and again when it goes from feet ( 3 ) to a yard ( 220 ) yards to a furlong, not to mention (40 ) rods per furlong..( which means that a rod is 5 and half yards..or 16 and half feet , or 198 inches ).. and 1760 yards per mile..No logical progression at all, measurements that do not relate to each other by any common denominator..apart from that of one inch ( which used* to be based upon an "average" man's thumb from the joint to the tip..Mine ( because I'm big..is one and one half inches ), someone else's measurement there is different again.. Btw..Both the USA and Canada use currencies which ( no-one living in those "non metric" countries has any problem with :) ) are divided by 100..and neither has 12 dollar bills, or 36 dollar bills etc..The attachment to "imperial" is just that, an attachment to a measuring system imposed by the British Empire..and even the British currency went metric ( I grew up with their old guineas, pounds, crowns , half-crowns, two shilling pieces, shillings, sixpence, three penny bits, pennies, halfpennies, farthings etc ...nightmare for most people to "make change" without a piece of paper and a pencil to calculate it, and even then getting "short changed" was an every day occurrence, which many did not do deliberately, nor notice if they were on the receiving end, unless their mental arithmetic ability was above that of the average person ) ..The weights and volumes were on different bases again..and as you note, the gallon varies depending on where you are.. Metric base 10 ) is consistent , easy to calculate, and the same base is used for currency, weight, volume, everything, only one thing for children to learn..how to divide or multiply by 10.. *People are getting bigger with each generation , in all countries, due to better overall nutrition, more food, imperial is even less relevant to current humans than it was before, where not all people in all countries were of equal size, they still are not.. Europe is entirely metric..and is a bigger market than North America, so change to being supplied in metric will happen..even if as a result of Brexit the UK were to revert to imperial, the numbers are in favour of metric worldwide..even India is moving steadily towards metric, they currently use both, what they manufacture marked in inches and metric sizes, like plumbing supplies is primarily for the USA market..China and Russia are already using metric , again they manufacture and mark some things in imperial "equivalents" for the USA .. You'd avoid all these "shims" and "reaming out to fit" and "adjusting" if everyone went metric..your money already is.. :)

The decimal inch was indeed simple enough, but it comes with that attached "baggage" of the 12 inches to a foot , 3 feet to a yard..and 660 feet, 220 yards, 40 rods, or 10 chains to a furlong..and 8 furlongs to a mile.. I learned ( and had to calculate in both at school..long division and algebra ( all kinds ) in "imperial measures" ) can think and work in both..but prefer metric..for all the sensible logical reasons.. For people on the right hand side of the pond..the "Jack" servo motors sold by College Sewing..also had 13mm shafts..which can make getting pulleys "off the shelf" that fit a bit awkward..I say had, because nowadays I get mine from china and they come with 15mm, maybe the later, more recent Jack ones do too, or not ? Old thread ( one of many ) on the subject of Servo motors..There are many many, more on pulley speed reducer systems ( bought and self made ) ..and "tuning" Servo motors.. https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/67110-will-the-150-chinese-servo-motors-from-ebay-work-on-an-old-adler-68/ note..I'm jealous of people who have lathes..I must build a bigger atelier ..I sorely miss my old one, which was big enough to fit all the 9 houses in my cul-de sac lane here in..

Or..14MM = 35/64 ths of an inch...metric is so simple compared to fractions.

I've tried them, the lighted ones, much prefer having the lighting from in front of me pointing down to what I'm working on and from both sides ( slightly stronger light source to the left ) The ring light magnifiers like yours ( I have a couple ) so long since I've used them, I am not certain where I've put them..they are OK if you are holding something up behind them ( like knapping arrow heads ) but a pain when working on something flat on a table like an illustration or a leather carving ..then they ( not only the arms,but the magnifying lens and light array as well ) get in the way.. get banged into.. Each to their own, depends upon what you are doing.. The most frustrating thing I find nowadays is that here it is getting hard to get real glass ( as opposed to acrylic ) lenses for spectacles, they have to be ordered in, ..the fashion is to have the "unbreakable" acrylic lenses ( which are a bit lighter in weight ) and then to have thick brightly coloured "designer" frames, like looking through the "playschool" windows at the world...Why on earth anyone wants a coloured frame around everything they see is beyond me? I like my lenses , spectacles, magnifiers , whatever, to be as unobtrusive as possible, and the acrylic ones scratch just by having house dust land on them..within a few days even of very careful handling , they are already picking up fine scratches, which I'm acutely aware of when looking through them.. I have dozens of pairs of spectacles, in various " powers" around the place ( there are 4 pairs right in front of me, plus the pair I'm wearing, which are on a cord around my neck :) ) and in vehicles and pockets..and I can see at least 5 different types of magnifiers ( desk , lamp, portable, wearable etc ) from where I'm sitting typing this..with more in the atelier..I also do the same as MattS..thread snips with every machine , attached by magnets or string..and a tool kit with every machine, thread rippers, screw drivers, tiny pliers, tweezers, small socket wrenches etc with each.. :) ps..I like your "specialities"..all the Aussies I've ever known were extremely creative at the swearing, I think it is the Irish ancestry / influence..even the indigenous Aboriginal Australians that I knew when I lived in London many years ago had excellent skills at the squinting and the swearing ( including some words that were not English , which I have forgotten ) ..They got me into Didgeridoo music, which is very relaxing to listen to when creating, like Bach or some Ragas..Time stops..and then is gone by.. :) Good "hang drum" music does that too..must make the time to make myself one, and learn to play one well, and Blues Sax..need a longer life.. With a good magnifying headset, and the right music, YinTx could do very tiny carvings on Kangaroo hides..if one can carve Roo ?

The type with an over the head band ( like the one I linked to ) are far more comfortable..and the lee valley type is like looking through a narrow box..very old tech..and expensive ( compared to the other lighter ones ) for very old tech..Only two lens powers offered, as against 5 with the over the head model. the problem with light in the same axis as the lenses is that you really want the thing lit from all around or from the side..otherwise you are working in "your own light" ( casting shadows exactly where you need to see what your hands or tools are doing ) ..OK for things like fly tying or examining specimens, not so good for working as an over the head set with separate lighting off to the side(s) .. The lee valley headset ( with or without clip on lighting ) would weigh enough to get very uncomfortable after a short time..all the weight is on the headband which is going around the head, to keep it secure you have to tighten the head band, like with even the light weight ABS welding helmets ( "instant dark" type* ) that have no over head support band, like having your head in a vice..and looking through a not very wide letter box.. *I have a bunch of these "instant dark" type welding helmets, I added "over the head" support bands to all of them**..Why do I have a bunch of them ?..so that others can watch and learn while I'm welding , and so that I can watch them when they are trying to reproduce what I've shown them.. ** My main one also has a strap that goes from the front over the top of my skull to the back of the helmet and then on down my back to attach to my belt, that way I can work longer with the weight taken away from my head, much better for the back and shoulders even with lightweight helmets or headsets. I use very lightweight reading glasses too ( one pair has titanium wire "frameless" type frames )..the less your spectacles weigh, the fewer head aches and back aches and shoulder problems you'll have in life..and you'll be able to work more relaxed, and for longer.. :)