mikesc

The pockets are normally made from string nets ( on all the old full size tables I ever played on ) with a "rail" of some sort, metal or wood below the table to collect the balls at each pocket..their top edges ( where the ball strikes before falling ) are leather with a padding of some sort..there is probably at least one video on youtube about refurbishing pockets on a billiard / snooker table..

I'm wondering the same thing.."who got ?" implies "who received ?"..Was "the stuff" sent ?..By who ? To whom ?

Juki.

Here the supermarkets stick a buckle on them ( split strips ) and call them genuine leather belts.."cuir veritable" Just today I saw an "artisan" selling belts made using 2 / 3mm splits at a street craft market..€30.00 each..( again "geniune leather" / "cuir veritable" with a €3.00 buckle included in the price..each belt had been put through a roller to give it what was described as "carved" design, then dyed and given a top coat..He was "adjusting them" to fit..cutting the ends , making holes..no stitching at all ..all belts had a simple crease line at along the edges 5mm from both top and bottom edge..it did not go to the point.. Pure misrepresented crap..he was telling people that he was a master craftsman, who made them all himself by hand*.. Selling like "hot cakes"..in 15 minutes of watching he sold 10..it was not a busy day..small seaside town craft fair.. * I bit my tongue..took some photos..

I don't do "whatsapp"..initially send me your email address via private message here..

Sometimes you'll find it easier to remove your work just after the take up lever has reached it's highest point and it, and the needle are just beginning to come down again, when the take up lever has moved back down about a quarter to a half an inch..Seen a few machines like this, they lock up and the hand wheel has to be "rocked back by a gnat's smidgen, and then forwards, just a touch". Probably means that the timing is "off" by a related gnat's smidgen..:) But, if your machine is now stitching well then you may not want to get "fine tuning the timing" until you have had it running for a while and eased your way into feeling comfortable with it, making sure that the "race" is oiled each time that you run the machine also helps..People tend to forget that when doing the "oil all the holes and moving parts".

The problem comes from the quickspark system that they are using.. in the page code / site code it is this area .. "/Springfield-Quickstart/Denali-Quickstart-test/"..it is "fixable".. if SLC are monitoring this thread..? they ( their webmaster / webdev ) should deal with it..the site is "set up" in such a way as to "break" their site, from an incoming customer point of view. HTH :) NB..I'm not looking for "the gig"..

Videos..Depends on what your computer is ..try downloading "handbrake" ( freeware ) ..and using it to reduce the video size.. or do what most people do... Upload it to youtube..and post here the embedded link to the video on youtube.. HTH :)

I understand.. :) you should still look into the shipping costs though, it is frequently cheaper to pay shipping at the country of origin..even when using the same shipper ( DHL etc ) than it is to pay the same shipping via an account in the receiving country.. An example ..I know the Pakistan rates to ship to EU via DHL..If I pay ( using my account in Europe ) I it costs me 3 or 4 times the price ( for the same weight of packages and items ) that a supplier in Pakistan would pay ( with their account ) to ship to me.. This may be the same from Kenya..it may be cheaper ( from a freight cost point of view ) for you to "export" from Kenya, than for a US business to "import" from Kenya..even with duty free preference..It could be a "selling point" for you :)..Everyone looks at total cost..items+shipping+duties when importing..If you can offer good CIF ( carried insured freight ) rates..you can be preferred over some one who only offers FOB ( free on board ) rates.. I don't deal belts or wallets..but I may be in touch with you privately about other items , I'll need to look at duties to EU first..

Interest would depend on cost of airfreight ( DHL, Fed-EX, TNT etc ) per kilo ( and minimum shipping weights , boxes of 10kg, 25kg, 50kg, 100 kg ) to Europe or USA..plus payment methods and terms.. BTW..most "tools and equipment" these days do not come from USA..they are from China..

That is very very good..what is it to carry ?

Fuentes..here it is again.. click to download../ .. aquí está de nuevo..click para descargar https://leatherworker.net/forum/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=115080

I'm trying to think why anyone would want to cut zig-zag edges on leather..or paper, or vinyl..non of which fray when straight cut.. Fabric ( woven and knitted textile ) does however fray when straight cut, so, to make swatches of textiles ( like tailors or textile upholsterers use ) you cut zig-zag edges..to reduce fraying..which is what this machine is for..it is indeed a fabric swatch cutter..lots of luck selling it here, in a leather worker's forum..I had no idea that fabric swatch cutters were so expensive in the USA.

I am now looking into the shipping costs of 29ks ( refurbished ) from Europe to the USA.. I can see an opportunity :)

Part is number 91-176 332-25 attached is parts list ( pdf ) with diagrams for your model..diagram is on page 12 towards the bottom.. from the take up spring assembly on the front of the machine..AFAICT HTH 6mdl64b0.pdf

Gregg ..re "the gap" .my 211 sews beautifully with the gap set at 1.5mm, ( threads from 45 to 138 ) , however , if I set it to "manual specs"( as per your posted diagram )..it is not happy at all , and does what the OP's machine does"..."hangs on the basket sometimes"...hence my suggestion..

Something very similar ( machine with that feed system ) was mentioned in another thread here a few days ago.

Also applies to Triumph motorcycles..you know where they have been parked, by the pool of oil they have left behind.. :)

Laying it down would have let some oil run to where it should not be..not a problem,.. please do not pressure wash it*..just put some kitchen roll under the needle, spread out two or three thicknessess of it..then leave it for 24 hours or so..an oil will run down into the paper, then wipe the needle clean When you are not using your machine put some kitchen roll under the needle ( pin it down / in place with the needle, by turning the machine wheel until the needle just pierces it..or you can lower the foot to stop it blowing away, and leave the needle up ) ..*pressure washing it would force out all the oil from where it should be, and many parts would get rusty very quickly, and maybe seize up..

The gap where I have circled in red..looks too small ..try loosening the screw at the other end of the lever, and increasing that gap to about 1.5mm..I also end to agree with Gregg..there are a lot of "approximately made" bobbins, and other parts around..

When I gave you that $50.00 to $100.00 price you had not said that it was to racing specs..they do exist at that price..but not to racing specs.. $50.00 to $100.00 is what the jackets, all sizes kids and adults, men or women's ( like the one that you posted a picture of ..cost each FOB made in Pakistan or India*..to racing specs ) Then..the importers , USA or UK etc ..increase the retail price to $350..00 and upwards..the one you posted the pic of..is Pakistani..I have it in a catalogue somewhere..( available in many different colour combinations..3mm cowskin, with armour , removable lining..minimum quantity would be as low as 10 pieces ) ..Most retail Pakistani leather wear does not have heads or hands showing in the pictures that their sites show to OEM buyers.. *There are entire cities in both those countries whose economy is based upon supplying OEM leather wear ( biker, club, western,BDSM, fashion etc..) you then buy it under various major brand names, marked made in USA..I know a few companies there who will even do OEM "made to measure"..turn around time 3 weeks..shipped DHL, Fedex, UPS by air to you, for resale to your customer..Many of them now even have wholesale and retail outlets ( and online ) in the USA, UK, and Australia..Been dealing with them since the mid 90s..and no..I'm not giving out contacts or addresses etc, to pre-empt pms from anyone.. *Most of what gets sold as "western" in the USA is made in those two countries, including many "Native American" leather jackets etc..the bone decorative work is all camel or buffalo depending on if the items are Pakistani or Indian.

Agree with that..there is also that commercially available racing leathers have ( or should have included ) all the back , elbow and shoulder protective ABS and or kevlar armour inserts.. and the suppliers / importers/ retailers of them...are certified and they have liability insurance..Just in case..

Your top picture there shows the foot is slightly to the side of the needle hole..so..the heated foot is to seal the edges of two pieces as they are being sewn.. Pretty sure that if you undo the plate that is on the machine that the forward and reverse lever goes through that you'll find you have reverse if you push the lever upwards..as I said above..I think it was put there to avoid "operator error".

Beautiful work.. :)

Buy a cheap kids vinyl jacket / windcheater / fake "biker" jacket ( correct size )..take it apart..Voila..pattern..if he wants a "perfecto" type cross over front and other similar stuff, you'll have to alter add some parts..get an adult one in the style that he wants ( presumably he has one ) to see what needs to be altered You know that you can actually buy leather biker jackets for kids for around $50.00 - $100.00 in the USA ..