mikesc

Nah fred.. canvas stretcher pliers don't look like that, they have rectangular jaws, no little "wossit" for the thumb and they have a handle* that consists of two arms, as do pliers..all the ones for chair webbing etc are very similar, always two handles,like pliers, always rectangular jaws..Plus, if you tacked through the holes with canvas tacks..( which have large flat heads ) how would you get the pliers off the framed canvas or webbing again.. Type... canvas stretcher pliers ..into Google ( which will save me digging one of mine out and posting a picture of them ) and you'll see what I mean. I like the idea of for toasting marshmallows, although on Cow and Chicken, they always used pointy sticks, which I thusly thought must be the American way. Maybe they are for gelding swans..although you'd have to be quick, 'cos as Bill Oddie said, very often .."A swan can break your arm". *Yes "a handle" is appalling grammar when talking about two arms, but, you get my drift, I hope.

Skiver ?

Try putting a strip of card 20 mm wide ( piece of cereal box ) under say a 20mm strip of the the leather to support it , and sew just 5mm in from the edge with the right side cover off..You should be able to see what is going on without the leather going down the needle hole...let the edge of the leather/ card sandwich run along the RH edge of the plate that the feed dogs come up through..the card will support it.. Another moment to be thinking "and if I made a right side cover out of clear perspex for just such times" :) Remember those spark ( ignition ) plugs with a clear body that you used to be able to get back in the 60s, so you could see what colour spark you were getting on each cylinder of an engine by swapping them out for the normal plugs one at a time ?.. "trouble shooting bobbin case covers in clear perspex"..I must patent it ;)..except I think loads of domestic sewing machine manufacturers got there already..prior art..although USPO would probably award a patent to me anyway..they seem to "award any patent first , take the registration money, and then let the lawyers fight it out"..

Looks like the edges might be folded in again before stitching, better pictures ( in focus ) laid flat on a table and taken from about a 45 degree angle or slightly to the left and above would help..with the sewn edge facing the camera. You can get folders that will do almost anything , and like Brian says , for most machines, after it is a question of how complex they are and price..They can range from cheap ( supposedly will fit almost anything )..to "custom", which are superbly made, and have prices that will make you wince..unless you are going to be doing loads of the same size, in which case they are an investment.

I tried on some of mine ( that were inside ) ..they are bought ready made at various lengths..they'll only work if the slider is facing one way around..I accidentally pulled a slider off yesterday , so I had one to "play with" :) Looking closely ( magnifying glass ) at the teeth on all my zips, they definitely have a "direction"..I very rarely have used "coil zips" and even more rarely rolls, last time must be 30 years ago :) But then we're working different "niches". Must go look at the marquee ones in the morning..I'm sure they'll be like yours, they must be at least 250cm each..some with two sliders..which are certain to work like yours as they definitely are not both facing the same way on the zips. :)

Can you not sew just right along an edge ( about 5mm in, just enough so the leather doesn't try to go down the hole with the needle ) edge to the right side facing the "harp", and take the sliding bobbin case cover off to have a look what is happening as the needle goes through and the stitch is made, or in this case not made occasionally.

I'm thinking the sort of spring that has a straight bit at either end ( one being longer than the other ) each of which ends in a hook..like a bigger version of the ones in "vice grips" that live in the handle..only in this case the hooks would mean that the spring lived on the outside. I see what you mean about the handle and the "riding on"..that handle does not look original ( looks like the ones that used to come with the screwdrivers ( one end flat one end Phillips ) in the tool kits for Honda "bikes" back in the 60s / 70s ) ..and there is that knurled ring on the "wossit / machin" end , which must be meant to turn...The shape of the jaw ends almost suggest something veterinary ..maybe farrier(ish) ? Harnessy* *not a real word

Juki 562 for $200.00 was definitely worth driving 150 miles for :) I'd agree, better to keep looking, and saving, rather than buy a potential money / time pit, when you have "cash in hand" you can bargain better. ps JJN..I notice there that you have a Polaris RZR :) we met a guy last week, lives near us who owns one of only a handful of the Polaris Slingshot SLEs in France , the one with the back end that stays down on the road..very "cute 3 wheels" :)

For the OP.. Go to this site http://www.amannusa.com/serafil.html and then click on "partners" in the navigation column on the left side of the page..That will get you the contacts of their dealers in the USA. You can also buy direct from Aman if you are buying larger quantities.. To see colours..go here https://hfkagency.com/serafil-color-chart/ The full colour chart is in an "iframe" just underneath where it says "colour number" and "name" in black on the red background , on the left side of the page. The first colour is "1000 - cream white" Put your mouse pointer* on that colour, then use the scroll wheel on the mouse to scroll down through the other colours..That will get you the colour number and name to give to whichever serafil dealer ( as found on the Amanusa.com "partners" page list ) is nearest to you. If you have a mac..put your pointer on the scroll bar at the right hand end of "1000 - cream white" and scroll down.. Serafil is wonderful thread to work with..enjoy :)

I don't think that ( turning the sliders the other way ) will work with all forms of zippers, some ( all the ones that I have here, a few hundred in different lengths, from 10 cm up to around 100 cm, or maybe 120 cm ) have one direction only "meshing" teeth, and the slider has to face in such a way as the meshing of the teeth happens inside it as it moves "forwards" and the zipper sides comes out "meshed" , at the rear of the slider as it runs "head" first..It splits the two sides if it is run ( still facing the same way ) "backwards" along the "meshed" zipper line. Mine are all for garments or maroquinerie though..I think that the marquee that we have in the garden might have zippers like your zippers ..but it is 01.20 am..here so I'm not bothering to go out and leave my glass of leapfrog to fend for itself in here :) Nor explain to Mdme just WTH I'd be doing at this time of night playing with the zippers on the marquee :)

If you hold your wallet in your left hand, and open it using your right hand from right to left, you expose your money in the zipped part to the thieves and miscreants.. because your hands are nearer to you than the money is..whereas if you open from left to right, the opened part ( with the money is is still nearer to you than your two hands, and is harder to snatch ) ..basic anti snatch / grab theft technique.. Lets hope that in Belfast we don't have a return to the days when everyone paid special attention to other people's bags..

If you are going Friday, and if you are still up and about this Wednesday evening..Before you go, I might be able to give you a few things to do / say, which may help you get your money back ( only take cash )..Depends on how good your, or your boyfriend's French ( spoken , don't worry for now about written ) is, as to what the advice will be.. IME when I ask that ..most Brits says theirs is good, usually turns out to be far from the case..so be honest.. as in do you watch French TV, do you laugh ( because you understand them completely ) at Jamel's sketches..? Also which "police" did you go to ..Municipale or Nationale ?..Gendarmerie normally do not cover Marseille* , unless your dealer is "dans la brousse" outside of Marseille**. *Otherwise known as "den of iniquity 13 in the sun" .. Love the movies Mr Besson :) **Before we moved up here ( my wife is Breton ) we spent 20 years in the PACA..Cannes, Golfe Juan, St Tropez, Port Cogolin, Port Grimaud..Draguignan..I know Marseille well. Of course if you are French with very good written English, or your boyfriend is French ? It will be much easier to advise you what to say, do.

It seems to be missing a spring that goes between the two holes ( one in each "jaw" ) that would provide the "clamping action" which would be released by pressing on the "thumb rest" on the top jaw. Other than that observation ( and that the two holes in the top jaw - at the other end from the thumb rest are probably relevant to it's use ) I have no idea. Rig a spring between those to holes I mentioned ( that passes "outside" the jaws..and you might then get "inspired" by looking at it anew and "actioning" the jaws.

You could , now they have tasted leather wrapping, go "steampunk" on them..see, now the idea is in your head, it will be hard to resist :)

When you get some more pics..try uploading them to tineye.com If there are other images out there on the web that look like it , tineye can be useful to find them, it isn't "magical" , often it hasn't got anything relevant in it's database, but it can be useful sometimes for "mysteries".

As Matt said...because around 90% of people are right handed, and right handers pull from left to right much more naturally than they do from left to right. That said, there is a market for left handers, so ..you could offer both..and maybe get a few extra sales from the left handers who think "at last, someone who thought of us"..and buy from you ( rather than from someone else ) just because of that . Should have read as .. As Matt said...because around 90% of people are right handed, and right handers pull from left to right much more naturally than they do from right to left. That said, there is a market for left handers, so ..you could offer both..and maybe get a few extra sales from the left handers who think "at last, someone who thought of us"..and buy from you ( rather than from someone else ) just because of that . Edited after noticing that the error ( my excuse, I was posting whilst cooking dinner ) was spotted by jimi . :) as posted below.

Yes that is what I meant..a veeeeery slight movement, :) I thought that you were concerned that it was moving at all, I just wanted to point out that it should move, very very slightly ( sehr sehr leicht ..très très légèrement ) ..now going to eat, maybe look in later.. / ) I hope that between you and Paloma you can get it working correctly :)

Where above you write "bouge" ..you should write "avance" or "deplacer" . So...it must move, if not the thing is broken, but it must not move forwards and backwards..il doit se déplacer, de haut en bas, sinon la chose est cassée, mais il ne doit pas se déplacer vers l'avant et vers l'arrière. D'acc ..Ok :)..Ya :) HTH..my written French is better than my written German, so I use English or French.. but..here goes..es muss sich bewegen, auf und ab, wenn nicht, dann ist das Ding kaputt, aber es darf sich nicht vor und zurück bewegen. Apologies to you both for the grammar.. but I'm posting and cooking at the same time ..and Mdme Mikesc is giving me "rolling eyes" ..she is hungry.. edited to correct rushed translations a little..;) where it reads "chose" I would have normally written "machin", ou "truc" but that got me more "rolled eyes"..;)

I'm big(ish) with hands etc to match.. ( glove size 10 or 11 depending on who makes them, long fingers, my main business is drawing, painting, sculpture, shoes size 13,14 or up depending* ) I discovered on my Juki it was easier to put the bobbin in the bobbin holder, then flip out the arm on the bobbin holder and put the entire thing in like that, then close the lever once it was in the hook..then I practised with my eyes closed ( no distractions ) ..after 15 minutes , no problems..no dropped bobbins..now :) * going to begin making my own..getting harder to find my size here..specially in sandals or work boots..baskets etc,I destroy them in less than a month, maybe I should lose weight, and yet I walk light for a big guy..but the new kind of soles either spilt across the foot or collapse inside. re changing bobbins out for different thicknesses..best to get more than one bobbin holder and set the springs of each one to a specific thread thickness..saves time on change over, less frustrating..and above all no risk of losing those little itty bitty screws that adjust the bobbin springs..

I read that with my programmers head on :) Had to go back and read it again :) In programming languages == sign or double equal sign means you are comparing what is on the right side of the == with what is on the left side of them. This comparison can return true or false. Then you do something with the result of that comparison.. Here is a good explanation of how = and == and === work(s) https://www.webfulcreations.com/difference-between-equal-and-double-equal/ You can also add the ! in front like != which changes the "is equal to" of = to "is not equal to" , like this != And now..We return you to normal service :) Ps python === cobra ( if the definition of "is equal too" is. "they are both programming languages"..or if it is "they are both snakes" ) python is also a programming language..cobra..is too, as is snake..and rattlesnake is also a variant. ABhandmade knows far more about all this than I do.

Any machine which has a horizontal axis ( under the table bobbin ) will let you change bobbins without removing the work from the table.. But you'd still have to stitch backwards and then forwards to "lock off" the ends of what ran out.. One thing that you can get away with on a horizontal axis bobbin is running occasionally thicker thread than is recommended, because you don't have the problem of very little "clearance" between the bobbin carrier and the sliding plate that covers it..Given taht you also have a441 , that may not be important to you , but may also be worth bearing in mind..You wouldn't want to try going bigger / thicker than 207 if the recommended max is 138, but a horizontal axis ( vertical bobbin ) model is more "forgiving" that way..of course you won't get a lot of 207 on the bobbin, but... Changing bobbins from underneath ( "blind", by touch alone ) is easy to get used to..and in most horizontal axis bobbin machines, there is a sliding cover to the left of the needle that you can slide away for practice of that "change" , without any work on the table ..

Someone said previously ( amongst other things ;) ) that SLC has them. HTH :)

Wiz said.. Official Adler dealers ( machines and parts ) are worldwide, the European ones are here https://www.duerkopp-adler.com/en/main/distributors/eurasia.html If it had been Pfaff or Juki, I would have said try Strima in Poland or one of the UK people who sell Adler parts..Almost anywhere in Europe is cheaper for Adler machines and parts than here in France.. Germany ( the home base of DAP ) has more dealers than anywhere else.. Presumably leatherbag's first language is German ( from the image of the manual ) and I know Paloma's is French , which could make "long range diagnostics" somewhat "fun" ;) especially if the names of the parts do not translate ( and with Google's auto trans, it is almost guaranteed that they wont ) to the same words in English from those two languages. However... :)

Missed these..beautiful work :)

If you set any machine to stitch length "zero" the feed dogs will move "up and down" "on the spot" and so will the needle..but the feed dogs will not move "front to back", nor will the needle..Which is your machine doing..are the feed dogs and the needle merely moving " on the spot"? or are they moving from "front to back" ? And a really obvious question, but..have you tried putting that "shim" that you took out back into the place you took it out from ( it is probably to "control bearing end float" ) and oiling the bearing and the bearing shaft at that point..?