mikesc

I like the truth, honesty, and integrity..and respect for the IP of myself and others..and will always "talk" and act, to protect those things.

You might try expoxying* a tiny strip off ( along the axis of the foot that runs away from you , front to back of the foot ) , a diamond file or even a diamond nail file ( medium grade, say around 1000 grit to 2000 grit ) to the bottom of a spare presser foot, it with give you friction , but not mark much, if at all. * not a word..but should be.

Jeff..you just said.. the other thread was locked by J..But it isn't gone..so I can quote your post in it's entirety.My bold That is not saying.. that is saying "walk on by" "ignore the thread"..that is saying do not speak out against IP abuse.. I personally hope to gain nothing..I gain nothing by posting..I only ever asked one question here..my first post..Eventually ( when he saw it ) Eric answered it.since then I have not asked another, I don't need to..I know how to do what I do..I know how to run ( and fix, thanks to Eric ) the machines that I have. But..as someone who is also a designer and a creator..the fact that you are perfectly happy to have your stuff ripped off and to see the work of others being ripped off, does not make it OK for you to tell the rest of us to "ignore the thread"..Because of the huge outcry by those of us who do create and design, gradually the internet giants like Google, facebook and hopefully one day even pinterest, have been told ( only by the EU for now, but, eventually the USA will get around to it too ) that promoting copies and fakes is wrong, and that they as platforms will be held liable for doing so..It stopped Google from copying all the books in the world that they could get, even the ones which were still in copyright, where the authors were still alive, and then making them available for free on line, with adverts around them that companies would pay Google for..Google books still exists..with non copyright books only..and no ads.They knew it was wrong, unethical, and illegal IP abuse, but they only stopped because people ( big name authors, and the little people ) made a fuss..that got heard by their legislators.They Google et al, will no longer have the "get out" of saying that they are not publishers. The copies of my stuff have been done badly , but unless the person buying them knows that they are copies of my work , and then takes the trouble to find the originals and buy them, then that is lost revenue..and is wrong.. Wrong is wrong..Illegal is illegal, I repeat ,with an addition,. You see a rape or a murder happen right in front of you, not on TV..you walk on by, you say nothing to anyone, you don't even call the cops ?..because it ain't you ? Why don't you stamp the Harley Davidson logo on your holsters? Because it would be wrong and illegal, ..or because they might send their lawyers after you, or both ? Or..because you are honest, and it would be wrong and illegal ?

Nobody said you have to "enforce" any laws, about anything illegal..That is the job of the courts .. Copying any thing without "the express written permission of the copyright owner" is breaking the law, and is illegal.In the USA too. However..if to all of that and the other thread, you say.."walk on by and ignore it"..then you are condoning it. Because you are apparently going to walk on by and say , do nothing, to any IP abuse of your IP, does not mean anyone else should in relation to any abuse of their IP, or anyone else's...You were saying in that thread that we should ignore the thread..that is implicitly condoning the IP abuse..No-one said that you should "stop it". I've been to court too , to protect my IP..five times..and I have won, 5 times, with damages awarded to me.Twice the IP infringers were in the USA. I still won.. There is a huge difference between , thinking you know the law(s) about IP, and actually ( via experience ) knowing the IP laws. You see a rape or a murder happen right in front of you, not on TV..you walk on by ?..because it ain't you ? WTF has the Southern border of the USA got to do with IP abuse and copyright...Nothing, that's what.

Jeff.Ignoring a thread where someone asks for help to copy the work of others( where he could just spend 5 bucks and get the pattern, and the instructions ) is condoning..If he posted asking for how to buy things with someone else's credit card, or how to remove some one else's watermark ( yours for instance, and posted the image of yours that he wanted help to do that to ) would you just ignore the thread..would you want any of us to just ignore the thread..? dishonest is dishonest, and should never be ignored, or walked past. “The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing.”* Perhaps Micheal222 and grumpyman ( you were wrong there fred, at least one here is prepared to help him copy the work of others ) should get a room, September weather is good in Florida, and Worth Ave has plenty of leather on view ( Gucci ) to be able to copy with mentoring. *yes I do consider stealing the ideas of others and copying their work as evil.. no I do not copy the work of others..

If you can get it for under a tenner..do so..then leave it in diesel for a month, submerged, take it out ( keep the diesel, you'll need it again , more than once ) see what moves..and how easily..if anything binds at all , put it back in the diesel, ..repeat as necessary.. until it moves freely..then take it out, dry it of with rags and begin stripping it and cleaning each piece individually..Take notes and pics of what goes where before you take things off..It will be a labour of love..an epic thread..at the end of it, it may even work..You will have enjoyed yourself..and that is what counts :)

Working through someone in the middle ( between you and the people who have the money, and who "decide" ) is a way to potentially waste a great deal of your time.. That said..the only way you'll know how it was made ( and with what, techniques and material ) is to take it apart completely..if they have not said that you can do that..( I wouldn't touch the job if I could not, wouldn't even waste time working up a quote* ) How are you going to quote for making it..unless all they want is "the overall look"..if that is the case..make it in vinyl..all of it..The "finish" is similar to Chevre, with the "pebble finish" of some of the Hérmes Chevre that I have..that can be either genuine Chevre, ( can be a little awkward to work, but not terribly so ) or vinyl..some very good vinyl fakes of Hérmes and Prada items with that finish, they fool the public, but not anyone who works with leather regularly.If you suggest alterations to the design, and they are accepted, you still have to know how you would make it.. Seriously..if you need to ask on a forum ( which has only a few pro leatherworkers, and even fewer pro bag / sac producers ) , how it is made, then you really ( in my opinion ) are already well out of your depth and level of experience and should not be thinking of getting involved. * First rule of quoting for production of someone else's design, is "is there a sample, if so, it will have to be taken apart to see how it was made, a pattern is not enough".."and how much is your budget, both per item and overall for how many items" "it seems"..is a dangerous place to be..that should be "it is".. And with only one machine.. there is not a ruefully shaking of head emoji..

That looks like it was done in Asia, and as Matt says may not even be leather, I've seen very similar ( both straps and bag ) done in vinyl ( those straps sure do look like vinyl ). Has the look of some of the fake Pradas that come out of China, not saying it is a copy, but it has all the same "finish" attributes. You are not going to be able to make these in either leather or vinyl, with one sewing machine and apparently not a lot of experience..Brian ( RockyAussie ) could ..I If I were you, I'd pass, before you find yourself in quicksand. I actually bought one of my industrial machines from someone who had good contacts at Hérmes, she had got a gig where she was going to be sewing non animal leather ( seaweed based plastics ) into small gift sacs for them, around 500 to start..She had only ever used a domestic machine before ( and was not a couturier at all, she just "knew people" ) ..she bought a machine that was completely wrong for the job ( Juki DLU 490-4 ) , had no idea how to get it to run , or stop, let alone reverse. She thought that "the exposure" would be good for her career as "a designer"..Luckily her husband talked her out of it.. I bought the machine, showed her how it runs ( after she had taken my money and the sale was done ) ..and then she showed me the materials that she was trying to sew, and the design which they had "suggested"..It would only have been possible on a cylinder arm machine, and only if they made the design cylindrical as opposed to cubic. Designers ( I am a designer, got all the paperwork , degrees etc to say so ) have a horrible tendency to design things that they actually have no idea how to produce more than one of..And then the people who are experienced on production runs have to "fix" the designs..that can cost much more than the designers think it would, and often means large compromises as to the design..If you are not experienced on production runs of bags as someone like Brian is..pass on it..or like Chris said..it could go very very wrong, and you will get the blame, and maybe sued or face financial penalties.. Don't buy machines just to do this job..and do not get sucked into "working for the glory and the publicity"..they will already know their budget, if they haven't told you, it is because they are hoping to save money by you working for the glory of working for a TV company.

If that means we are "cool"..we are cool Persevere with this machine..Adlers are very well made*..Here Singer "patchers" in Good condition can be found around €500.00 and upwards depending on the model ( I paid less for mine )..Adlers here begin around €800.00 and are usually a thousand or more..I missed a pair of them ( really close by too ) for a really silly low price on our equivalent to Craig's List..I keep a browser window open all the time on another computer just in case another one or two come up for that kind of money again ( less than €150.00 each, with a singer 29k in there too )..Shoe repair guy died, family had no idea what they had, "just wanted the old junk machines gone", a dealer saw their ad about 30 minutes before I did....and they were gone *they hold their value well, and new are not cheap at all..they are viewed as kind of like "the Swiss Army Knife of sewing machines"

Ah..the snakeskin belt "rejuvenated / relooked"..beautifully done Jeff :)

I'm one of those who don't use a needle positioner..they annoy me..my EFKA has an "all singing , all dancing" one, which thankfully can be ( and I have done so ) disabled entirely..They have their place in high speed textile garment stitching, but are as practical as a chocolate bicycle built for a fish, when used for leatherwork.

Nice..you can smell the peat smoke, and hear a faint skirl of the pipes from here :)

40 mm , by the time you allow for the hole / bore for the shaft, and the depth of the V groove, that is not a lot of metal left for the pulley "core" structure, and you don't gain much ( by way of "slowing down" ) over a 45mm..I've never gone lower than 45mm, but my large pulleys are all over 200mm ( self built speed reducers / torque multipliers ).

Well spotted Brian ( I missed the needle size, "pick up arm" threw me )..Yep , a #19 needle has "Buckley's" or "Soddall's" or "Kerdall's" chance making a hole big enough to for the top thread to pull the bottom thread up through..I'm with wiz on that , even a #22 is a little small, a #23 is better. Re "bottom stitch and top stitch"..Vinito.. :) yes you did not say "bottom stitch"..but it was "the stitch on the bottom", which implies that there is another stitch somewhere, or that you maybe thought that the two threads were referred to as "the stitch on the top" and "the stitch on the bottom" ( which would make two stitches in total) ."on the bottom of the stitch" ( same words, different order, better describes the stitch, and doesn't imply another stitch ( on the top ) I tend to reply not only for the benefit of the OP, but also for any who may be lurking, or who arrive to threads later.Possibly with English not as "their mother tongue"..Auto-translate is crap , so using the terms as they are in the manual ( which they may have an different language version of ) is far less likely to lead to confusion.Also many people's bandwidth and / or data caps, does not allow them to go looking at youtube to see either solutions or videos of problems.

"pickup arm" ?..You mean the horizontal arm where the needle bar is going through ( along with the stitch length regulator etc ) ? Or the rocking / pivoting assembly upper "arm" that drives the needle bar up and down when you turn the handle, which turns the wheel? Neither IME is "the pick up arm" You mean the bottom thread is straight and not sinking** into the leather at all..So , when you look at the bottom of the material(s) that you are stitching, ( turn them over ) you are seeing tiny "knubs" of the top thread on the bottom, because it is being pulled down ( all the way through the material(s) by the bottom thread ? If so..That is either bottom tension too high, or top tension too low..Normally you set the bottom ( bobbin ) tension to have just a slight resistance when you pull the thread..and then adjust the top tension until the stitch is being made with "the crossover" of the two threads ( top and bottom ) happening in the middle of the "sandwich" made by whatever material(s) you are sewing. The correct terminology is very important for anyone to be able to "troubleshoot" at a distance.be it a sewing machine, a diesel engine, or a computer...frequently the same terms / words do not refer to the same things depending on context. "Gusset" in a leatherworkers bag..is not the same thing as "gusset" in leather lingerie. ..although you can sort of see the connection , if you consider the shapes. **Strictly speaking , the bottom thread does not "sink in", it gets pulled up, by the top thread..but when you turn the material over, to inspect the bottom of your stitches, it then appears to be sinking in..or be "pulled down". "Too tight" might apply to the bottom thread, but not to "the bottom stitch", there is no such thing, there is however, the "bottom part of the stitch" ..as the stitch is made up of the combined action of the bottom and top thread..thus there is no "top stitch", nor is there a "bottom stitch". Varying more than one variable thing at a time, when you have a bunch of variables..is usually not advisable, unless you know exactly what they all do, and how they all interact.

Seconded for College ( I thought of suggesting them when shoepatcher made his 1st post, but presumed there would be someone in the USA )..their 45mm pulleys* fit a 12mm shaft, or they did when I bought mine..and they are very helpful people, a pleasure to do business with. *I've had a few from them, ( bored out some to 13mm for other machines ) they also do ones which fit EFKA units..I think I bought a 50 or a 60mm from them a couple of years ago.

College have a minimum order amount ( I think it is £20.00 or £25.00 ) system* ( or it might be minimum handling and postage ) anyway, so you may as well stock up on needles there, or look around their site for things to get you up to min order. *I can't remember which, I usually do orders between €50.00 and well over €100.00 there, so it doesn't affect me.

Probably the simplest thing ( rather than try to edit your original post if you are having problems with doing so ) would be to make another post in this thread, with the prices you would like. Prices will also help weed out the "tire kickers"..you don't want to be spending time dealing with some who might think that you'd sell a machine for 10% of it's worth ( even used in manufacturing ) ..I've seen friends go through that, gets disheartening really fast..Most here know the value of machines, but will obviously still look for a bargain, but some have no idea. Another suggestion would be to take pics of each of the machines, and post them one by one ( yes , I know you have a lot of machines, but it will help* ) with asking price per machine, likewise other items, fabrics etc..approximately how many sq ft of each type, price ..Same for any leather that you may be selling, types, prices..even zips and fasteners ( how many, what type ) how much per carton or box or gross or..you get the idea.. Lot of work, but avoids it being a "fire sale"..I think you'll make more that way.. HTH *example..there are at least two people I can think of here who are interested in a large "clicker"..one of them also has expressed interest in the past for an "outsole stitcher"..

A shame to hear of any manufacturing business closing down, and especially 200 employees losing their jobs..Plus the owners losing what they have built up..I hope your fortunes improve..

I'm thinking that people might like to know prices of at least each of the machines ? Before making contact to view etc.

"It only fits one way"..Bobbin fits in the holder ( the 3rd pic ) and then the holder goes ( the same way up as in your photo ..that is to say what you'd think is "upside down" ) inside the the hook ( 1st and 2nd pic ) the little lever then folds over the holder into the inner recessed ring on the holder "bowl"..and as Wiz says :) the thread goes under the tension spring before you put the bobbin in the holder and into the hook..Weird, but..once you have done it..you'll not forget. I can't even remember the machine that I once had that used this method, but I can remember the method.

Thanks Chris..that makes it even worse..for $5.00 he could buy a pattern from Corter, and be able to use it with no limits , but..he prefers to ask for help to steal the design and not have to pay the 5 bucks. Unfortunately Corter themselves are also making an item that uses the Louis Vuitton logo https://corterleather.com/collections/patterns/products/pattern-cowboy-midlength-wallet ( which is "passing off", and various other offences, and is extremely illegal, if Vuitton find out they will be in major legal trouble )..although Michael222 would probably say that "everyone else is doing it, so it must be OK".. Btw.. Makes no sense at all in English.( some of his other comments are not easy to understand either ) if you ( Michael222 ) are using Google translate, it does not work, it makes very bad ( difficult to understand ) English sometimes. It does not do syntax, nor grammar, very well , and often it's translations of words are not accurate at all.

If they re so simple..design your own..if anyone can do them..do your own..those who made them did not copy them from others, you have no proof of that you are just looking for justifications to steal the design of some one else.The design of another leatherworker, their stamp is even on the article in the picture that you posted, you are a thief. I have flipped the design so that everyone can see the name of the leatherworker whose design you are asking for help in stealing..their stamp says CORTER. This is their website.. https://corterleather.com/

I'm a designer, ( whose work has been being copied for decades, without me seeing a cent for the copies ) you want to copy other designers work..that is "knock offs" ..You are not going to be getting any help from me..and I hope none from anyone else , if they have any ethics or honesty. Designing takes time and effort..that is why people sell patterns..and why honest people do not copy.Oh..and to add.. all designs, intellectual property ( see "Berne Convention"), the USA is a signatory ) are copyright from the moment they are made, they do not even have to be registered, ( even in the USA ) to be copyright, patents are some thing different, as any good lawyer, judge, or designer knows. No, I'm not going to explain, nor debate with someone who knows that what they intend to do is dishonest, do your own legal research, make your own designs. Disappointed to see that some here are willing to help you to copy the work of other designers.Honesty and integrity are becoming rare commodities.

So..you have no experience, you intend to start a leatherworking business*, and you are looking to copy someone else's ideas and designs ,and their patterns,( wallets and now phone cases ) and you want it all ( how to make the copies of those items from those designs ) explaining to you.. * That type of business is known as "knock offs"