mikesc

That is now one pretty clean machine there..yep..another vote for the decal on the front.. :)

Ah well..they were all long shots..given a 4411 .. Re the Consew 206RB-3..I've never used one..but .. if you put the following line ( exactly like that "copy and paste" it into Google.. site:leatherworker.net Consew 206RB-3 You'll get all the times that Consew 206RB-3 was mentioned here..and someone who has actually experience with that model may be along to advise.. :)

Sorta Brummiggum skrewdriovah..yow cud it fings wi it, loike wi a ommer innit! ar keed, bostin ay! :)

It is not their walking foot design which is at fault..although it is not enough to make feet that go up and down to be able to sell them as being comparable to a true walking foot machine.. It is the entire machine.It is "tinny", weakly built, badly finished , inaccurate, and is originally designed as a sewing machine that can do zig zag and straight stitch for using on sail boats to do emergency repairs to sails if there is not a sail maker with true walking foot machines and zig zag machine ( true sail maker's zig zags have three point stitches , three stitches each time they zig" or zag" as a minimum )..available.. It costs nearly as much new, as a new true walking foot clone, actually more than some..and is nowhere near a solid or as accurate.. The Trabant of industrial sewing machines..IMO and IME ( yes I've sewn with one, before saying "no thanks" ) it should not be considered as an industrial machine..and what is worse is there are now "clones" of it.. No professional sail makers , nor professional leatherworkers* use them..Some hobbyists who made the mistake of buying one say they are good, IMO in the hope of persuading someone to buy theirs. *Professional leatherworker is someone who has a business registration as a leatherworker producing goods, not someone working off the kitchen table or out of the basement who has an etsy shop. Everyone has to begin somewhere, but there are a great many hobbyists advising as if their experience was that of a professional, some people have the experience, others have read a lot of threads and watched a lot of youtube...happens in a lot of things ( especially anything "craft work" ), not just leather. Everyone has an "opinion" these days.., but would you let them fix your car, your computer, treat you when you are sick, or rewire your house etc..or guide you as to how you should do those things..if they had hardly any experience, other than reading the internet and watching youtube.

The 3rd solution ( picture in that post ) looks like a "sample" from an animal with kidney problems : )..Hence "creatine levels may be a bit high"..

I haven't used any of the machines that you mentioned..mine are Singer or Juki..someone else who knows the ones that you listed will have to advise on them.

Looking pretty, although some may find the pics of completely disassembled sewing machine "innards" somewhat traumatic..;)..Reminds me of some old VW air-cooled manual pages from the 60s and 70s. Or old Giles cartoons from the same period. btw..looking at the 3rd pic your 1st post in that group..your machine's creatine levels may be a bit high ;) Nothing at all against the grey..your grey machines look quite "distinguished"..drab green I would not be so keen on were you to "experiment", but then given what you sew.. Agree with dikman..you are definitely getting good at this :)

Take a tour of the area of Mataro..lot of textile sewing ateliers there, and a reasonable number of leatherwork production ateliers too ( jackets waistcoats, skirts etc ) , ask around for the leather sewing machine dealers.I used to buy finished garments ( leather and textile ) from Mataro suppliers. HTH :) Begin asking ask here..Barcelona chamber of commerce section for Mataro https://www.cambrabcn.org/on-som/punts-de-servei/mataro The main Barcelona chamber of commerce will also know of the leather goods ateliers in other parts of the Barcelona area..and maybe sewing machine dealers there. IIRC there were many ateliers producing leather bags too..and some producing leather footwear..

Old credit cards, shop loyalty cards..cut up to make smaller sizes if required.

I think that would be 10 pt type.. Nope.. corrected if 5/32 it would be just over 11 pt type.. A micrometer would give an accurate reading to convert correctly..with a ruler, it could be 10 pt or 11 pt or even 12 pt. 72 pts ( pt is the type measuring system ) per inch.* https://everythingfonts.com/font/tools/units/pt-to-in * Type sizes measure from the top of the ascender ( like the bar on a letter d ) , to the bottom of the descender, ( like the lowest part of the "tail" on a y ) and your type is apparently all caps ? So any pt size is harder to attribute.Some type styles have some letters which are taller than others, often the letter O and sometimes G and U...occasionally V, W and sometimes the lower point of M and N..There can be others, typography is complex. HTH :)

Depends if the fabric backing is stiff enough, if it is flexible it will be "dipping" down with the needle as it comes out of the bottom of the foam and enters the hole in the needle plate..the friction in foam ( try running your hand across the surface of foam to feel the friction compared with fabric or lightweight ( 2 - 3oz leather, lambskin or similar ) ..can make it very awkward to sew. If the bottom of your stitches when sewing leather alone is good enough, you could try sewing the "sandwich" upside down, the leather on the bottom, the foam in the middle, and the fabric backing on the top..You may well get a better loop for the hook to catch forming that way..worth a try..with foot pressure normal, and backed off a bit.. Draw guide lines ( if you try "upside down" sewing ) on the fabric to follow ( for your seams ) or on the paper if you try paper..You can also try painters masking tape ( the kind that peels off easily ) stuck along your seam lines, with your seam lines drawn on the tape..peel off the tape from the fabric when done.

You might try switching to titanium needles, and possibly ( depending on the suitability of the item that you are making ) using silicone lubricated thread, foam has a lot more frictional drag than leather, going up a needle size will help. Yes ..adding a sheet of "tear off" ( stabiliser* ) paper on the bottom of the foam will help, it stops the lower surface of the foam getting dragged down with the needle and affecting the loop.There is a "tear off" paper sold for embroidery work ( to be nearest to the needle plate ) that will achieve the same effect..But lightweight copy paper ( 70 gsm ) will work, and is cheaper ,but the "tearing off" has to be done more carefully so as not to damage the foam or the stitches..If you can leave the paper on ( depends what you are sewing and what it is going to be used for ) then you can use "non woven" textile instead of paper, and leave it on ( it can be torn off , but again carefully ) the kind that is sold for wrapping plants against light frost works..even tissue paper ( the kind used for wrapping presents or delicate objects** ) works..experiment to find the most efficient, convenient. * Can be bought on a roll, various widths and weights. colours etc. **Very similar in some weights to stabiliser paper, but usually cheaper. ps..you are aware that the Singer 4411 is just a domestic machine with "heavy duty" written on it ? The 105w motor is only very slightly more powerful than the "pot" ( 90w - 100w ) motors on many old cast iron machines..Many modern domestic machines have motors at around 100w..which is a long way off the 550w of a modern small ( there are larger , more powerful servo motors ) servo motor on an industrial..and everything on a true industrial ( and even on some of the older cast iron domestic Singers, and other Brands ) is much heavier duty .

The foam is affecting the loop ( what the hook goes through, at the needle scarf ) formation.

^^^This. The first thing to make when you begin leatherwork..is..a ..strop.

"I guess the more excited you get, plus your measurements dictate the weight to control how discrete you want to be , or how proud you are assuming you wear the kilt like a scotchman " scotchman ?! 5oz to 8oz.. Formal ( empty, except maybe a phone and light wallet) 5 oz. Formal / practical ( for carrying more things in, phone, wallet, change, small flask ( if not worn on a belt or strap ) 8 oz ).

^^^ What Tom said.

It should "plural" like sheep..to which they are related.. Unless they are not yet adult, in which case they would "plural" like lamb(s).

Does he have Scots ancestors ?

Beautiful..I'm smiling from ear to ear :)

You might be able to run it with laserweb* on mac..likewise for debian linux ( try version 3 rather than 4 first, if v3 works, try v4 )..it also works on windows..( "cross platform" ) all depends what "language" the module that is doing the position controlling of your laser system is using.It isn't designed for these little desktop lasers, but ..could be worth a try..I don't have a laser as small as these, so I can't say that it will work with any of them, nor can I say that it won't "brick" them..So..try at your own risk.. *Open source..freeware..

You might want to give the size of the engraving ( longest line in inches or mm , end to end of that line ) required ..wallets sizes vary, a lot. Many of the smaller lasers can't go bigger than just under 80mm.. Guessing at what you have there ( the pic is very small ) it looks to be about 120mm or maybe a little more on the longest line.By about 80mm high for the six lines with spacing..

You'll find it very hard to shine splits..best you can probably do is the slick the side that you want to be shiny with saddle soap, and then burnish with a glass "slicker"..Splits have no "top grain" at all, they are what is removed ( split off ) from under the leather to leave the top grain that is normally what you would want..Splits are for "re-inforcement" or "padding" like in a belt..or for practice when you are cutting out patterns to see how it all sews together..They don't take tooling well..Nor will they usually "dye up" even..By "backside"..they mean "inside"..But most people would rather put something else on the "inside"..or leave the inside "as is"..Splits are basically "waste".."upsold". You could also try , after doing the saddle soap and glass slicker, then painting Gum Tragacanth on and slicking that with a glass burnisher..or even resolene ( or any other acrylic finisher ) and burnishing that..That might hold the fibres down a bit..but splits are never going to look like top grain leather ..and if you've done any tooling on them, all that rubbing with glass and additional liquids is going to squash down your tooling.

Same here ..azerty claviers..(not ipad ) ..linux PCs.. Made me smile anyway :)

You be in grand company..Spike's Tombstone reads.." I told you I was ill" in Gaeilge :) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spike_Milligan#Death

If it is to include the images..IIWY..I'd make another post in this thread with the images included, ( a mod can "tidy up" later if they want to..it is Sunday so they may not be around 'til later or until tomorrow, they are volunteers, so have things to do IRL, can't be around all he time )..Btw..nice bag , the colour suits the style very well :)