mikesc

You are Heath Robinson ;-) or a worthy ( "heritier" ) descendant / kindred spirit of.. , and I claim my €5.00, ;) ...which ( along with other multiples of Euros,....in anticipation of your approval of the means of their dispersion ;) ) have already been sent ( as "electronic money", which will do far more direct good to Australians ( Fire-fighters and Residents ) and the Animals there ) not as "things" that they cannot manage, and the sending of which, costs more than the things themselves ) to Australia .. Thank you for your "curiosity"...which ..despite my ( sometimes ) thinking that you may have too much time on your hands..is , indeed, very useful :)

Sew Europe has them..UK based https://www.sew-europe.co.uk/shop/parts/singer-parts/singer-29k-29u-parts/194e-joint-screw/ Postage to Europe is £10.50 Glasman in France Glasman.fr may have them ( they have a.pdf manual for 29K in their parts lists )

For those who use an NPS.... cool :)

For your purposes ..Yes

Luck wished..perseverance should be rewarded. :)

Ah..OK..so firstly..are you sure it is not a synthetic..burn a small piece with a lighter..synthetic burns differently to organic, gives off a different smell, chars differently if you bring it into contact with a flame on the edge..I didn't say the differences deliberately, don't want to influence your senses..

It has to be said..your mauls look gorgeous...Beautiful tools .. :)

Why not ask the seller ? Even when you buy from "a random seller on Ebay" you have their details..their name or their business name, and they send you an invoice..Even if you have lost the paper invoice, log back into your Ebay account and the transaction details are there.

I'm thinking like Gregg..that looks like the other part of the bent take up lever cover, to me looks like the bent cover was jammed back into the take up lever slot..or, it might be the take up arm, but..without better photos, or someone actually seeing it "in the flesh"..no way to know for sure..if the only thing wrong is a bent cover ( and the take up lever is there and not damaged ) could be a good deal..Looks like the two bed covers ( bobbin / hook cover and the one from the other side of the needle area ) are also missing.

Retail outlets are buying from Asia..or buying from wholesalers who are buying from Asia, or buying from wholesalers , who are buying from importers who are buying from Asia..I can order leather goods, clothing , wallets, belts, briefcases, BDSM, you name it , right now from Asia..wonderful quality, great real leather top grain hides, beautiful workmanship, great designs..for less than 10% of the retail price before VAT that you see in retail outlets..and unless they are making it to my design ( in which case the delay will be 3 to 6 weeks* including airfreight ) it will be delivered to my door at the middle of next week by the latest..all customs cleared an taxes paid by the delivery company..I just have to write them a cheque ( or use the pre paid account ) for any taxes that were added by Customs..and they hand over the merchandise...The Asian companies ( all of them will either sew the labels that say mikesc or chrisash in Asia, likewise they'll sew in labels that say made in UK or made in France or made in USA ) or they'll ship the labels separately and they can be sewn in once the goods have passed customs..Customs anywhere have no problems at all with goods coming in which have no country of origin marked on the goods, as long as it is on the paperwork..That is how most of the big brands source what they sell, and how most of the wholesalers and importers work.. Some of the companies in the destination countries do have the true country of origin in each item that they sell, very many do not...You can see this on any street market, behind all the stands there are boxes of Made in China..and on the goods..99% of the time, no country of origin..the same in Supermarket or high street retailers wharehouses behind the shops.. Think of any brand..go to their website..see if they tell you where it is made..rarely will they say..even more rarely will they say the Asian country.. Some of the most Iconic Brands that you can think of in the EU, UK , or USA, will merely say "imported". if they say anything at all...others will outright lie... Or cover their items and their sites with nationalistic imagery, and talk of heritage, and tradition, and sell you Asian made goods at 10 times what they paid for them...If you pay 500 USD or 500€ or 500£..per item ..they pay 50..I have a long time friend based in Asia who works OEM for many of the biggest Brands, making their leather garments and a huge amount of motorcycle gear, jackets to wallets to bags and gloves...Another who specialises in leather cases and maroquinerie of all sorts ..and another ( brother of the first guy ) who I had forgotten about, who makes most of the official balls used in most of the official leagues of various ball games world wide..he also makes leather work for uniforms, sporrans and belts etc..Got a box of his samples behind me..some of his brothers jackets and waistcoats hanging on the wall here.. There is still a market for artisanal work, not made in Asia, but it has to be very good, well made, and it has to be different ..or bespoke..and if it gets to be fashionable..then the Western retailers will be in touch with the Asian manufacturers to get close copies made and back to them so that they can "cash in" as soon as possible..sometimes it can be ( in the fashion industry ) as fast as on the Couturier show catwalk on Monday, close copies in the High street shops and major fashion websites by Friday.. *If you pay a premium, or order a large amount..you can get even your own, or someone else's designs made and shipped back to you within less than a week..and as anyone knows who has ever been to places like Singapore, Taiwan, or Hong Kong, you can be measured up in the morning, and you can go back the same afternoon or the next morning and the 3 piece suit, or jacket, or dress for the ladies will be ready..you can show them a sketch, or a photo..and it is done..you can get the same for shoes..I knew a shoemaker in Malta ..24 hours for a pair of shoes..and if you were really prepared to pay..you could have them back within the same day of him measuring your feet..

Search this next line ( copy and paste it exactly like it is ) in Google ..the click the search button. site:leatherworker.net cigar case or this next line site:leatherworker.net cigar holder the principal works for searching anything on any site, as long as you know the site name

yep ..magnified waaay up..the take up lever is not there..broken off ? with maybe damage to other expensive parts when it broke ?

1) If you are doing it as a business, you'd have to calculate in all your "overheads" ( light ,power, insurance, lease, or what you have to pay for the place you are doing it in etc etc ) and then say "to begin with it costs me this much"..then do part 2 and add that result to part 1..But.. 2) If you are doing it as a friend" or for "a guy"..then take what materials are going to cost you $85.00 ,Then work out how long ( hours doing just that ) it is going to take you to make it..then add on at least half as long again ( because at the early days of working on anything that you haven't done before, it always takes at least half as long again as you'd think ) then decide how much you want to be paid per hour .. That is how much "minimum" you need to ask...then add any taxes that you might have to pay on the money that he pays you if he pays by cheque etc..

To promote your affiliate blog ?..Amazing the spate of new "members" who have joined recently and spam/promote (with what reads like disjointed "bot written text") their affiliate sites, or the online courses "that have helped them so much" within their first 3 posts.. Nice try. Some of us have been dealing with spammers since before the most recent crop of them and spambot herders were born. Became interested in embroidery after starting an affiliate blog as an expert about embroidery machines..Hmmm Little problem with the "time line" there..Expensive machines, embroidery machines, the affiliate commission on a sale after a click through from your post by a member or reader here is good.. "N'est-ce pas"

So..you are imagining..you don't know .. know means have proof or have witnessed with your own eyes the actual person doing the actual thing.. So.how was your trip to China ,..or do you live there and have visited the person that you are talking about while they were working ? I don't know them either, and I have no connection with them..but I would not claim that I know what they are doing, if I actually have not witnessed the specific person doing the specific thing under discussion. btw..businesses use machines to shake liquids..they don't do it by hand..visit your local paint store and you'll see the machines..I even have one..and another that can stir 60x 5 litre tins at one time..an,d a smaller one that does the same thing with 2.5 litre tins..but 80x 2.5. The only things that get shaken by hand by businesses, are "rattle cans" and there are even machines to shake them..I don't have one of those..but I know some people who do..I've seen them shake cans with my own eyes..and 30 litre drums of liquid too. Then there are acrylic gel paints ( thixotropic ) ..do not shake..or do not shake until just before use.. Temperature for storing acrylic paint ?..0°C to 50°C ..no problems.. Distance of retailer location? presumably you mean how far away they are from you ? .. That is what shipping / posting is for..within 48 /72 hours I can send up to 30 kgs to anywhere in the world ( from me to anywhere, except the poles ) ..How do you think that the 200 litre drums of chemicals get to the acrylic paint manufacturer..or in some cases the base materials are delivered in 30.000.oo litre tanker truck loads..That are 1000s of kilometres way from where the manufacturer is..I have a friend who makes paint, ( industrial scale ) I buy from him..he is 1200 kms from me ..takes 24 hours from him to me..ordered before 16.00 hrs from him ..arrives to me, delivered to my door by courier by 16.00 hours the following day There is a whole world of things that you do not actually know about.

Lot of people forget to oil the race..I have a Juki DLU 490-D that gets very antsy if I don't do so daily when it is in use..The rest is auto oiled..but I still prefer to manually oil it as it rarely runs fast enough for the oil pump to really send oil everywhere..My Singers ( 211G 166A , 20U33 and a 29K Patcher ) are more forgiving, but the Singers also like their races oiling..the 29K doesn't have what would really be a "race" , but oil one, oil them all..

Timing has nothing to do with oiling.. Yes the hook tip should be just beginning crossing the flat part of the needle where the eye is on the way back up ( the flat part is called the scarf ) ..I don't know your exact machine ( but someone will be along who does ) that will be able to give you the precise measurement ( which is normally in mm down from the top edge of the scarf ) to the tip of the hook which has just arrived into that flat part..Meanwhile ..Oil is not going to solve your timing problems..nor will it solve a whole pile of other mechanical problems on sewing ( or any other ) machines..Oil is not a kind of magical tool..very often when a sewing machine "locks up" thread is caught in the hook, which all the oil in the world won't help.

If you want to simplify the background..easy way is to drape a sheet from somewhere on the wall , out of camera shot down behind the machine.. But..if that is going to snag on your tools and stuff, and knock things over when you lift it out of the way ( highly likely ) ..Instead.. Get a sheet of carton..( even an old large cardboard box will do..split it so that you have a side without any lettering facing the camera ) stand it on its long side behind the machine so it makes a curved background ( like a curved TV screen, but a bit more curved ) to hold it like that..get two paper clips, or bulldog clips.join them with a piece of 138 thread ( or string ) that is long enough to keep the carton curved..then clip one to the top edge of the carton towards the left side edge, and the other at the top edge of the carton towards the right side edge..adjust the length of the string so that the carton stays "bowed", with the curve of the bow behind the machine and the edges ( left and right ) closer to us ..That will give you a plain background..if you make it white it will "bounce" flash back into the camera a bit too much if you use flash, so grey or brownish ( natural carton colour ) is better..if you have enough carton slide another piece in horizontally to cover the machine bed..Voila, neutral background..and you can lay any small parts on the carton covering the machine bed to photograph too.. Want to remove it to continue working..take off the paper clips or the bull dog clips..lift out the cartons and stow the cartons away..takes you less than 2 minutes to set it up and break it down each time you want to take photos.. HTH.. You can get around to making more pro or arty photos later..everyone can improve their photography..it isn't the camera that counts it's, the photographers eye, and what they know.. the best camera is the one you have with you when the shot presents itself..

What Tom said ..almost any "old digital camera" takes better photos than almost any cell phone..even the ones with rounded shiny corners.. Bright clear images are what you want for "restore how to's"..you have one there :)

My favourite type of thread :)

Strong in this one, the Googlefu is .

IME..the stitch length..and to a degree, the thread used..is down to aesthetics. Especially on garments.. In your case, it will also depend on which "Juki walking foot" machine, there are / have been many different ones, with different specifications and different capabilities.. ?, They can't all sew with the same threads, they can't all sew the same stitch lengths.

Depends entirely upon what you mean by "the correct stitch"..do you mean thread type, or thread thickness, or stitch length or stitch type..or combinations of some, or all of those things. ? Not all "machines" can do all types of stitches, nor can all machines handle all thicknesses of thread. There are some types of thread that some machines like more than others, and some types of threads that only certain machines can sew with..Some machines were designed to do certain things to the thread, such as waxing it or oiling it or adding silicone while the thread was being used on the machine.. You cannot get a "straight answer" ..there is no "one size fits all" answer ..when it depends so much upon what you mean by the question..like most questions in life :)

email the photo to yourself..that will shrink it to a size you can post here

Here...Blacksmith's hammers look like carpenters hammers, same basic form as the one in this thread..but bigger..Some metal workers have a sort of ball b peen, but the ball is at the end of a longer "finger"..and the other end is longer and or flatter too ..Think "planishing hammer" variants.. Tool shapes ( and even the existence of many tools ) varies from region to region, which make sense..The names of some tools, and many many many objects / things, varies from region to region of France too. Wine barrels* vary in shape and finish depending on the region that they were used or destined for.. *Barrels were obviously not just made for wine..there's Water, Olives, Berries, Oils..whatever..all different , all varying from region to region.. I have bookshelves full of books about this kind of stuff, and multiple terrabytes of recordings of TV programs and documentaries..fascinating.. :) Huge variations in leatherwork ( shoes, saddles, harness, clothes, aprons, bags etc ) too ..plus "old style"..and "new style"..