mikesc

Again ..Thank you for the thread .. :) btw..superbly clear photos ..

@fredk Ah ..gowan..yer know that yer wantin to.. :) also ( re NK ..back in the 90s a lot of NK stuff was moved / exported through China ..and vice versa* ( *due to "quota" ) probably still is )

True :) ..The capacitors can hold a charge for a long time even after the units are disconnected..as can many capacitors..such as those used to run things ( such as industrial sewing machines ) which are originally set up as tri-phase..as single ( mono phase ) by providing a "fake" phase. Electricity can get you when you least expect it. I just spent 3 days tracking down a "bang" that left us with no lights and power to only half the sockets in the kitchen and no lights in the bathroom..turns out the "qualified" electrician that did the work for the previous owner of this house..had run two sets of insulated cables ( tri phase cables..4 x 2.5mm wires in each ) around the kitchen wall at just above floor level..then he'd plastered over them..to hide them..But not before drilling a hole through the wall to outside to pass an earth lead from the main fuse box to ground via an earth spike ( which is hidden somewhere under the metal framed veranda that they added )..In drilling the hole..he pierced one of the cables..exposing the wires..and with the storms we have had..( no damp proof course* so the ground got very wet, the wet rose in the walls ) the plaster got wet..and BANG!! ..last Tuesday night..Having found cables that vanished into the wall , I dug out the wall - destroying many built in kitchen cupboards that were masking the wall in the process ) for 10 metres or so , until I found the blackened "BANG!" point..The other cable followed the same route..and he'd just cut it off with ( I presume ) some side snips..But it was still connected to the main fuse board..The cable end was "fizzing" ..The kitchen and bathroom walls were live .. :) Now they are not.. :) But I'm going to have to re-do the kitchen and bathroom before they were scheduled to be done. French electrics..on old properties..there were, and are no, controls as to what the system is like after the consumer meter point.. *Won't be the first time I've had to add one to an old building..awkward but possible..

You could always drill out the hole..rethread the hole to take an oversize brass insert which has a hole in it with the correct thread ..

Just a note ..Snakeoil knows this, but for anyone else thinking of this way of getting powerful magnets..don't play with magnetrons if the machine is connected to the mains supply..even if you think the microwave is dead..and the magnets in hard drives can shatter or split when you are getting them off the HD internals..they can be very stubborn, the shards are sharp..you do not want one in your eye or finger etc...Also if you approach two very powerful magnets to each other.or one very powerful magnet to most iron or steel..they can "snap" to each other or the item so fast and hard that they can trap whatever is in the way ( finger etc ) ..or snap to each other so fast that they will break and shard.They are fun..and useful, but treat them with respect, and do not let your kids play with them. I have old HD magnets all over my sewing machines..holding on tweezers, snips , those little leather clamps that look like clothes pegs, paper clips etc, and acting as sewing guides.

Bear in mind, it is very simple to infer an "origin" without actually using the precise words that would get items into trouble with any country's laws. Many companies in the USA and elsewhere do this..I know of many leather apparel manufacturers who are not in the USA, who's major customers are USA "brands"..The items are shipped without the country of origin being marked on each item ..it is however on the customs documents. Those brands then promote their "Americaness"..and retail and wholesale the items as American. This also happens here in France..none of largest of the non "Luxury brands" are selling leather apparel manufactured in France..nor do they say where it is made...But they "hint" at French origin when in fact the origin is "other"..as many USA brands "hint at USA origin, when in fact the origin is "other"..and many German brands "hint" at German origin..Germany has a lot of Turkish leather goods..and some from Poland..and a large amount from "other".. The same applies to the UK..or just about any country.. "Other" ....It is in fact made in India, Pakistan, Bangladesh, China, North Africa.. That is bad enough..where it gets really bad is when the labels which say "American" or "French" etc are shipped separately, or sourced separately, and then sewn in once the items have passed customs. Then there is "designed in" ..and hats.

That is pretty..your tiny work is excellently nice :-)

I would not buy a used car..or a used anything from him..Nor change any money , nor take any cheques..etc.. As JJN says..domestic machine..no way has that ever sewn 3/8 of an inch of leather..it would struggle over the double seam on a pair of jeans..motor is 90 or 100 watts..2 pieces of 1mm lambskin it could put the needle through, but they would slide around.. You need a triple feed industrial machine .. and not a sailright, or any of the similar things..They are for "yachties" ( who have limited space onboard, and don't have the money to pay for pro sail or cushion repairs on the small stuff ) and who sew occasional two layers of canvas and maybe some 1mm thin leather and who don't much mind that the result looks pretty rough..After all who is going to climb up the mast , or turn over the deck cushions to look at the stitches. :) IIWY..I'd look for second hand triple feed industrial..or Buy triple feed industrial from a dealer..or do what charlie2crows did and buy direct from China ( IME you can trust a Chinese seller** direct as much ( if not more ) than you can trust a seller of a second hand machine over in the next town , or Ebay, or the "dealers" in France* ..and you'll save a ton of money by buying direct ) ..but ..given that you might have to do some "setting up" when buying direct.. *The majority of dealers ( USA based ones at least ) on this board offer waaay more help and after-sales than French ones do..and are cheaper than French ones. **I've ( as yet.. but will be looking to do so in 2021 ) not bought sewing machines direct from China..but have bought very many other items ( servo motors, laser engravers, textile items, the latter by the container load, multiple times.. etc and other items ) from Chinese sellers..I have yet to be disappointed.. Just make sure that if you are buying leather items that you specify "animal skin leather"..if not you may get PU ( plastic/ polyurethane ) "leather" ..Which is what many "western importers" order ( knowing full well that they are buying plastic ) and then sell on as "genuine leather"..as the Chinese say..the "westerners" knowingly order "fake" at wholesale..and then blame us when their customers complain.

Having been following this thread..( for a friend who has a machine fro which this manual is useful..albeit , I'll have to translate it for them ) may I say JJN ..You are a Star.. Merçi ..Thankyou .. :-)

As Terry said ..contact North Star Leather . nstarleather.com Copy and past the nstarleather.com into your browser address bar and then click go or enter

Thankyou :) Superb thread / posts :)

For the leather..Goat or ( about 1.5mm to 2mm thick* ) ...for even softer lambskin..( same thickness ) For Pics..post them in the adult section**..if you haven't already asked Johanna for access to it..do so.. *You are in the USA..so ..1mm = 1/24 of an inch ( or 2/32 of an inch ) ..approximately .. Something to note..Chrome tan from any animal at any thickness is softer than veg tan at the same thickness from the same animal.. So you can get calfskin quite soft as long as it is chrome tanned.. HTH.. :) **From my point of view..there are too many people interested in the "how to hurt women, whether the women are consensual, or non consensual " involved in "adult" ( not just here but all over the "adult " areas of the web )..S&M not withstanding..as opposed to those who understand what is written in my sig.. Oh..and..Welcome to Leatherworker.net..the more women here ..the better :)

Congratulations :)

Always ..always get 100 % money "up front" on custom work..not just a deposit. That way you are not "out" your time and materials if the customer changes their mind, or their bike, or crashes, or ups and dies..or just is a no show. Ask me how I know this ..learned the hard way.. Did some highly customised unique work for someone ( not leather..but a very large sign for his business ) ..Guy was a neighbour..I delivered the sign ( took me 3 solid weeks work and around 5,000 USD in materials to make it..plus the fitting of it above his bar..for which I had to pay helpers and hire a "cherry picker".. The guy was out at the time I put the sign up..he went on holiday for two weeks the day after..While he was on holiday..a few too many lines of Bolivian marching powder in his nose triggered a heart attack and he died..I waited a month after I got the news to contact his wife to get paid..She had by this time set up home anew with a boyfriend ( who had been "waiting in the wings" ) ..She refused to pay as she had already sold the bar to someone and had moved back to the UK ..lawyers said it would cost me more to sue than the money I was owed, and I'd have to go to the UK to do so as she could not be forced to come back to France. Bar was near St Tropez. Ever since then ( 25 years ago ) ..everything custom in any way is entirely paid for in advance..the customers who don't want to pay..get told why I insist..They still don't want to..they can walk..

You could try contacting Strima , they are the Zoje distributors in Europe..just possible that they have binders in stock .. Presumably you have already asked Zoje in USA.

Look for arbalet12..member here...makes beautiful stamps..I presume he can also make custom dies.

Picture..of your machine..and close up of the stitch length / flywheel area that you are describing?

Ah posted in the gallery thread, and then tried to edit my post when I saw the size, but the board and my browser "play" badly even when I'm logged in. As I said in that post..unless I'm logged in I don't see postings to the gallery, so I missed this one .. Beautiful work there, as always..The texture on the fur ( that slightly "fuzzy" "cub fur"..and the expression on the face..exquisite I'm not usually "signed in" and so don't see the gallery posts..just noticed this one.. What is the size of this one ?..Ah belay that....I just saw the size.. The initial "comment" window hid your first post ..so around A4. As Tom says..your photography is fine..if you were using "old style" silver halide, 6x6 would be perfect for you..The film can still be found..look for second hand cameras with German lenses..Bronica ECTLs were always cheaper than Hasselblads.. If digital ( not 6x6 ) but "full size" sensors..Look at the Panasonic FZ1000 lovely "glass" in the lenses..or in their superzooms ( Leica glass ) the DMC FZ200 or DMC FZ300..I have both the FZ200 and the FZ300..more portable than the FZ1000 and a bit more "reach"..and "fast glass" for superzooms..Nice in studio too..Almost any "European" glass is wonderful on any camera.. Software ..try Darktable..It has many "lens profiles" included , and is free and is similar to lightroom..and now available for windows too..Match it with Gimp 2.10 or later and you can do wonders in Windows or Linux..

"There is no need to shout..." precisely ".. :) "we want to all be on our best behavior." ..Some of us do indeed, ..however...some others here ..I often wonder ..? There is no reason at all why one cannot use correct grammar and spelling on any site, be it a "leather site" or " a gardening site" etc. Added to which , there are many people reading and posting here ( this is an international site ) for whom English is not their first language, they will have greater difficulty understanding what any of us are saying if we use slang, or misspellings, or inaccurate and, or incorrect grammar ..worse still, they may think that the inaccurate and, or incorrect spelling and grammar is actually correct and begin expressing themselves that way when writing or speaking. I learned to speak and to write the other languages (in addition to English ) that I speak by listening to speakers of those language who speak grammatically correctly and clearly..and reading what they wrote, and write.. Why not strive to be as correct in one's speech and writing, as in one's leather work or anything else one does..As my grandfather used to say "why plough a crooked furrow due to lazyness*, when you know how to plough a straight one". *Local spelling variations not withstanding..I think in the USA you would write laziness..Both are acceptable variants..lazeenes ( do you see where I'm going with this ) however would be, and is, totally incorrect.

Freedom of speech even in the USA does not mean that you can post what you like to other people's websites..it means that your government may not restrict your freedom of speech..that is all.. The word "profanity" does not mean what you think it does... You do use random caps like JLS.. When you understand the difference between the words "there" and "their"..and "clicks" and "cliques"..and "your" and "you're" ..I'll perhaps consider listening to you about what words ( and their meanings ) are.. You did ( in your comment that was removed ) ..insinuate very clearly that "donating" to the site would make mods not mod certain comments..and then suddenly you begin asking how to donate..? The mods here cannot be "bought"..you impugned their integrity..

^^^ as a designer and someone who also had a printing works ( letterpress, litho and silkscreen )..what RockyAussie and Blue62 said.. Artwork has to be supplied "camera ready"( B/W separated etc* ) ..and blocks or stamps etc are paid for 100% by the customer ( they are not a "shared cost" ) as additional to the first order invoice which is based upon the number of pieces required.. Check with whoever is making your stamps as to what they require as artwork "format"..you do not want to have to buy or rent expensive software and do "conversions" ) because the customer supplies artwork in a format that the stamp-maker does not accept without them charging extra..

I've often thought, that when it rained in Kilbowie ..( rainy climate ) they made up screw sizes and thread gauges, and shaft and pin diameters, bearing sizes etc..as a sort compendium of puzzles for engineers..

I agree 100% with what RockyAussie just posted..and was so tempted to post virtually the same thing 48 hours ago.. I've been on the internet since it's infancy and even before..Found out recently that Wiz and I have been members of the same pro webmaster forum for maybe 15 years or so.. I have always known some basic rules on fora..and before the public internet on usenet and BB.. They are .. You challenge a mod publicly = instant permanent ban..no excuses..htaccess bounces your IP to dev null or anywhere but "here" You cast aspersions about the probity of a mod or the site's owner or an admin = instant permanent ban..htaccess bounces your IP to dev null or anywhere but "here". You insinuate that mods can be "bought" = instant permanent ban..htaccess bounces your IP to dev null or anywhere but "here". You persistently diss advertisers ( or an advertiser ) who keep the lights on = instant permanent ban..htaccess bounces your IP to dev null or anywhere but "here". You persistently make snide sexist , or rascist or homophobic etc remarks ( trolling ) under the disguise of only joking or freedom of speech = instant permanent ban..htaccess bounces your IP to dev null or anywhere but "here". You want to do that ..there is 8 chan. et al.. ( btw..IME anyone who finds it necessary to constantly make homophobic remarks always makes me think ..who are they trying to convince that they are "straight" )..I don't care what sex or anyone prefers..But I do object to constant snide about what might be others preferences.. In my sites or those I have modded or admined over the years ..that kind of snide = instant permanent ban..htaccess bounces your IP to dev null or anywhere but "here". Religion ? I'm atheist..Brought up like most Southern Irish to be RC ..I have friends from all religions..I only have a problem with the bigots and the haters and the extremists..Like Brian ..I stay out of "religious"..some one "believes"..they"believe"..( whatever ) if it helps them...as long as they do not try to insist that I , or others do too..I'm not going to burst their balloon.. I actually think it is a shame that the thread was modded ( although I understand perfectly why the mods did so ) because the posts by JLS and "his disciple" showed just how toxic and defamatory and egotistical he has become..not for the first time..Plus it would have shown anyone that might have been a potential customer of the guy , and who searched his "name" exactly what kind of person they were dealing with.. Being a supporter does not give JLS or anyone the right to shit on Johanna's rug..to challenge the mods and admins..and to diss advertisers ( without whom this venue would not exist )..The "pushing of the limits" has gone on waaay too long.. ( Let it pass this time..again..it will begin again..with cheerleaders..and you mods may not catch it before the search engines , or the wayback machine..put it into permanent memory..or it crosses a line and someone, Johanna? gets sued ) Anyone who does or did that (JLS or anyone the right to shit on Johanna's rug..to challenge the mods and admins..and to diss advertisers ( without whom this venue would not exist ), or "cheerleadered" it should have been = instant permanent ban..htaccess bounces their IP to dev null or anywhere but "here".. Because ..you don't cut out the Toxic rot..it spreads..which at least one of the comments which was cut demonstrated.. I posted far less for a while because of it , and similar..( and not because I run "paid for" elsewhere, ) and didn't say anything..because internet of rule # 1 "Do Not Feed the Troll".. Johanna ..I know Wiz knows how to write an IP ban( I think maybe others here do ) ..But if Wiz is busy..I'll happily send one via pm..with foolproof proxy bans .. I was so tempted to send more or less this message to Johanna and all mods via pm during the past few days since this thread showed up..It must be so disheartening for mods ( no surprise that some mods who have been attacked, impugned by the same poster now post rarely ) to put up with the kind of crap that was posted and then cut..I thought I might be a lone voice..But tugadude ( with whom I have not always seen "eye to eye"..but major respects for speaking out guy and finally RockyAussie, for whom I have the most immense respect..posted what I have been thinking.. So..I signed in to post.. 2 replies showing since I began typing..haven't yet read them..I type slowly..

Ok just saw this...if you look at the photo magnified..you can see where the stitches are "doubled" ( where there are two stitches ) ..So I quickly hooked up a wacom to this computer and drew over( the wacom is nowhere near in a comfortable place in front of my screen so the lines are more than a little shaky..but ) ..Start at "top left" near the watch face..run down the entire side of the strap and around the bottom and back up the entire right side to the watch face..then come back down that line ( see the double stitches there which drag the holes just slightly out of the straight alignment ) until the curve that is nearest the watch face..stitch that curve ( right to left ) across..When you get to the left hand line of stitches, make one single "double stitch" towards to bottom curve of the strap..and then stitch back across the watch strap ( left to right ) to make the second curved line..when you reach the right side stitch line..finish ( tie off )..Red line shows what I mean.. I didn't open LatigoAmigos pdf..but I'm presuming it will show the same thing..You could also start from the right hand side and just do each line in a "mirror fashion".. HTH Edit..Now that I've looked at LatigoAmigo's pdf..I think his way would be neater..But from the look of the stitches in the photo, and the way the holes are pulled out of a straight line on the right hand side near the watch face..I think that at least the strap in the photo may well have been machined the way I describe..or not :)