mikesc
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Everything posted by mikesc
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Talented YouTuber
mikesc replied to AdamPCain's topic in Purses, Wallets, Belts and Miscellaneous Pocket Items
(ô v ô) -
Talented YouTuber
mikesc replied to AdamPCain's topic in Purses, Wallets, Belts and Miscellaneous Pocket Items
Likewise..even right clicked and "open in new tab"..works for me too.. and that is despite me not liking link shorteners.. although penguins and FF are safer than many other combinations..if you are going to go clicking on link shorteners.. -
Having watched many of Nigel's videos, ( even though my business is not one for which they are applicable ) I always found them to be extremely well made and clear..Personally I object very strongly to the suggestion that he is in any way a "con"..There are many scams and cons in leatherwork ( and in other craft based businesses )..In my opinion he is not one of the people perpetrating them..Selling a burnisher as part of an "all in one" with a motor is not a con merely because you personally do not think that the motor is a good one, or that it lacks a "brand name" that you personally approve of.. To accuse someone of being involved in a "con" is to say that they are dishonest..which in UK law is defamation and more specifically libel ( because your defamation of Nigel Armitage is in written form )..and is actionable in justice..
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No ..never give your email in the open..on any forum ..ever....you'll get inundated with spam..if you can edit it out and send a private message to Constabulary..that is what he meant by a PM..if you cannot edit out your email address ( maybe too much time has gone by ) ..a moderator can do it for you..
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Speed control by pedal force or movement?
mikesc replied to Gymnast's topic in Leather Sewing Machines
You are waaay over thinking this..all you have to do to get a pressure or force sensitive speed control pedal, is to put a small air filled ball, such a a child's foot ball, or an air-filled "softball" or "handball ball" ( under the front end of the pedal that is pulling on the pitman rod ) ..the more you squash the ball by pressing down on the pedal, the harder it gets to squash the ball ( it is "harder" , requires more force, to "compress" air that is already being compressed* ) this solution can be "retro-fitted" to any sewing machine that does not use a rheostat in the pedal..Actually it can even be used on one of those, but requires opening the pedal, fitting a smaller ( air-filled ) ball, inside the pedal, and closing up the pedal again.. Voila !! I did this as soon as I got my first industrial machine, many decades ago ( works also under the pedal on clutch machines ) ..and on all subsequent machines ( servo or clutch ) ..with the exception of "treadle" machines, such as most patchers..But you are unlikely to want to run a patcher faster than one stitch ( each stitch exactly where you need it ) at a time..If you switch the treadle mechanism on a patcher to a servo mechanism, then you could apply it.. Child's air-filled vinyl ball ( small enough to wedge under the pedal of an industrial machine ) will cost you no more than a few dollars.. Just don't try and patent the idea in any way..I have "prior art" ;-) *Physics..which apparently they do not teach enough of nowadays.. -
Jaime..just click on the link in Peter's last post..
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Nah..that was for Dikman when he wakes up / gets back..put a smile in his breakfast.. ;) Is also as plausible ( I never bought into the "there is a tiny peice of Unicorn horn in each tool" "reason" ) a reason as any other for the price of VB tools..
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Heretic ;-)..it ( "the Blanchard" ) is made from the finest steels , hardened in the fires of 7th generation artisan forgerons, then enfonce, into the finest exotique bois from millennial forets, puis, vernis, et, rolled upon the thighs of young French maidens, ( named "Blanche* ), "daughters of old aristocratic families, fallen upon hard times since the revolution, under a full moon sky, at precisely, 03.15 am..and only when the foregoing time coincides with an equinox.. Which.. explains the price..supposedly ..what other reason could there be..? Hype..? Nah..Not VB..surtout pas..jamais.. ;) All "accents" such as my keyboards do, were deliberately "left off" all the French words, lest "some" computers can't show them and instead show the diamond blocks with the squiggley question mark "thing", ( � ) that means ( amongst other things ) "windows does not do this".. Hence the name..because most steel tools are hard..Blanche ( means "white", feminine hard..Blanc being the masculin version of white..but as ( when she was not exposing her thighs in order to roll tools upon them ) she wore trousers ( pantalons ) , some people ( when viewing from a distance ) made the understandable error..Which was good for business, as women were not allowed to have bank accounts without their husband's or father's permission, and that would have made laughing all the way to the bank with the profits made from the ridiculous prices of the tools from the business somewhat difficult, plus, ( as any woman, wife , girlfriend, sister, will tell you, ask the nearest one to you, - my wife told me without even being asked ) , it is harder to run in a long Victorian ( or Napoleonic era ) skirt, than to run in Victorian or Napoleonic trousers.. The writing of the words feminin and masculin in French gets complicated..( and IMO makes no sense..but I'm not French ) .so..to save explaining why there are deliberate grammatical errors in the way I used them above..just accept that it is complicated..life is to short to deal with why the word for feminin is a masculin word and why the word for masculin is a feminin word..and there are those errors again..for "recursion" ..see recursion..likewise..for "recursive", see recursive.. ps..The Catch ( well one of them anyway ) is ..Not so much "lyrical"..but channelling R.O Shipman..possibly..
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Saddle Sewing Machine? Need Help Please
mikesc replied to MRoyster's topic in Saddle Supplies, Tools & Trees
Depends if you are using a phone..email doesn't just send things to phones..some of us have more computers ( 12 ) than we have phones ( 4 ).. You could just open the image in "whatever software" that you have ( in your phone, or tablet or your computer )..select "resize" image..when it asks" what size..you choose 800px ( on any side ) ..and then select "save"..it will fit , upload to here ..with no problem..and if your cell services is "down", or "unavailable" .. that method works..whereas "emailing it to yourself"..only works if you can access your email service.. My email service 40 megs down , 9 megs up .. ( and my cell phone service 4G ) will let me send files as big as 500 megs ( maybe even more, that is as big as I've used so far ) with each email..just takes a while to upload at 9 megs.. Some people have waaay better upload and download service than that..But I'm in a small place..population around 3000..and right on the coast, but in a rural, farming-fishing area..2 clicks down the road either way..it is 1 gig fibre..coming to us next year..Yay !! -
"Neutral" ( in the sense that they use it ) just means transparent, or "clear" , which is why some people think it is a "thinner".., it is not..it is what one would call a "glaze medium"..which have their uses.. No..it will not come out "opaque white"( solid white ) ..it will come out "sort of "milky" white", which is unlikely to be the effect that you want.. Anyone "wondering" ..To get "neutral"..as in a "glaze medium" ..you could just as easy use "acrylic texture paste" ( if you want texture ) ..or "acrylic medium" ( if you want thin layer) ..from any art shop, it is the same ( 99%) thing, chemically, and is much cheaper.. HTH
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Re- dying “Bonded” leather question.
mikesc replied to Bubblehead's topic in Motorcycles and Biker Gear
pleather is Pu Leather..is Polyurethane "leather"..is plastic( sometimes over leather..like some of the LV stuff ( other ersatz leathers are available ) .. But it is "tricked out" to look like what we'd think of as leather..so.. Hope that "bonded leather" does not mean pleather.. If it is pleather..any ( paint ) thing that is used to change the colour of vinyl ( plastic ) shoes would work.. -
Where are the toolmakers of yesteryear..we yearn for them tragically..
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Your direct links are not direct links, they go via bit.ly..so they could be going anywhere..with anything at the other end.. Why not link directly.. Leather Tools For sale General information...Bit.ly links , that redirect to who knows where ( because when you hover your mouse over them they don't tell you where they are going to..and even worse on a phone..a click means you are going in "blind" ) can be the fastest way to get a virus that you ever saw..
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Your direct links are not direct links, they go via bit.ly..so they could be going anywhere..with anything at the other end.. Why not link directly.. Leather Tools For Sale General information...Bit.ly links , that redirect to who knows where ( because when you hover your mouse over them they don't tell you where they are going to..and even worse on a phone..a click means you are going in "blind" ) can be the fastest way to get a virus that you ever saw..
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Richard..I couldn't agree more with you about LV :)..My wife has some of the LV bags ( and some Hérmes ) she bought when we lived in Cannes back in the 90s, and from ( before we met ) when she was there in the late 80s.that was from before they"sold out"..new ones from LV are nowhere near as good..and the price of the Hérmes ones , you could buy a house ( or even a small château* ) with what they want.. I don't think it is so much that it is "because all of our Countries have sold out to the lower wage nations", so much as .. The people at the top of the retail "food chains" and the "brands" got really greedy, they don't care how poor most people have become relative to them, or how many small businesses they crowd out , or how many people they exploit in any country, just as long as they keep getting richer..it isn't like they are working to get rich, they are just getting their friends to create "legal loopholes" for them, and then exploiting both the producers of the goods and the end buyers of the goods..and frequently lying , or being vague about the origins of the goods.. Case in point..Last week I received a "trade catalogue" from a German company..They call themselves a "German Toy Manufacturer" , right there on the cover..100 plus page catalogue of children's toys all made in wood, all eco friendly no toxic paints etc etc etc ..So..I phone them , and I say "Your toys are very interestingly priced, where in Germany are they made ? ..The sales rep ( for France ) tells me.."Oh..We don't make them in Germany, that would be too expensive, they are made for us in China".. Someone must have changed the meaning and definition of the word "manufacturer".. *Some parts of France you can still get a small château ( needs some work, but liveable ) for less than the price of a Hérmes bag.. btw..to keep on topic :)..the German company I mentioned above, has some people selling their "Handmade" wooden toys on Etsy..I know a French guy who makes wooden children's toys, he can't compete with their prices, he makes them in his workshop in a little town about 25kms from me..His are beautiful work , excellent, superb quality..
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iphones , and virtually all cellphones in fact, and almost all computers are made in the far east, as are all their parts, hard drives, RAM , mother boards etc, likewise TV's, Monitors, Game consoles..probably the computer and screen that we are each reading this thread, or using to post too the site, are made in the Far East..usually China.. It is a long way from being garbage..unlike a lot of software , which is mainly made in the west, with some subcontracted out to India.. Lot of very high grade leatherwork and especially leather apparel is made in the far east, China, Pakistan or India..But the importers to the west ( the western companies with their brand names ) want it marked made in the USA, or Made in the UK, or Made in France etc, before it even leaves the eastern factories..Other western companies sew the "Made in" labels in when the shipments arrive in the west..I've said it here before..most of the leather apparel that you buy..In the USA or Europe, the "bikerwear" vest, jackets, boots , pants. skirts, tops, luggage , saddlebags, tool rolls, etc etc..including the biggest, oldest ( and in some cases the most expensive ) brands, are made for "the brands" for less than 10 % of what you pay for them in the west.. Then there is the fashion leather apparel..even the "designer" labels..made in the East and the Far East too.. Oh ..and Nike and all the other sportswear brands..and the footballs, basketballs, softballs, baseball etc ..made in Pakistan, or India, or China, or another far eastern country, for way less than you pay..the "brand" doesn't even pay 10% of what you pay for "the brand"..
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Is that the flat head screw and what it is screwed into in the pictures* above ? If so, both the screw and the thing it is stuck in are probably steel..you might be able to just heat the ' spilt bracket looking" thing that the screw is stuck in with a small propane torch ( the kind you'd use for heating copper pipes ) or even a heat gun set on "low" and with the precision nozzle so as to only heat the "bracket" and not the screw..If that is the two parts that are "stuck" then the what you have is equivalent to a nut holding a bolt, the "bracket" corresponding to the "nut" part, heat that part, without heating the screw and you may get lucky.. *for some reason the images didn't "load" when I first read the thread, so I was basing my comments off your description only..which sounded like a classic "screw stuck in larger piece of ( maybe cast ) metal" like a screw stuck in engine block..not having a skiver ( no use for one ) I remember the various pictures that others have posted here, usually of curved cast iron bodied machines.
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You could try this Loctite® 8040 .. If you take the part that the screw is stuck in to a motor cycle or auto repair garage that uses it, you can ask them to just give a shot of it straight onto the screw.. it usually comes with a very small diameter tube for precise delivery ( like WD40 ) so the thermal shock effect will be directly to the screw ( which is probably steel ) and not to the surrounding metal ( which is probably cast iron, not steel ) ..try immediately to unscrew it..might take a few goes..If you do a lot of "tinkering" best invest in a can..Here it is about €12.00 per 400 ml can..400ml goes a long waaay.. ( or it's equivalent if you can get it where you are ) ..
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Depends upon the mass of the metal that the screws are threaded into..and the thermal properties of the screw and the metal..as to if "heating the screw" works..usually heating the screw ill make it expand into a hole that it is already stuck in..and thus make the problem worse.. In Europe ( where you and I are ) "pro garage" suppliers sell "freeze aerosols"..specifically for applying to screws that are stuck..in order to use the thermal "shrinking effect".. PS..physics doesn't care where you are ..which continent or country, or planet etc..physics applies throughout this universe..other universes may have different conditions, in fact I'd expect them to, but such speculation, whilst interesting, is really OT for this thread..but if you want to start a conversation about what might happen in other universes, or within certain things in this one such as black holes, I'm game, if If have the time ..but then time is "relative" eh ;)
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Try a single drop of brake fluid applied directly to the head of the screw so that it can "sink"in" around the screw..leave it to work for 24 hours.. Diesel oil ( just the stuff that trucks and tractors run on ) will also work, just not quite as well.. need to leave whatever you want to "free up" for longer.. WD40 is not a "releasing oil", despite what many people think, and, despite what it says on the can..it is a water dispersal liquid.. That is what the WD in WD40 stands for..it was the 40th mixture that the inventor tried when he was trying to make a water dispersant.. You can get the same "penetrating oil" effect , as WD40, by adding around 5% acetone to ordinary cooking oil..or sewing machine oil.. Never depend on WD40 to be a "machine oil", there is not enough "lubricating effect" in it.. Do the foregoing .."cold"..no heat applied.. If you want to try "thermal effects" to free up screws, you reduce their temperature..to shrink the screw in the threaded hole.. heating is used to free up nuts around bolts or threads , where you use heat to expand the nut away from what it is threaded onto.. Basic physics.. BTW..brake fluid strips paint ..any paint, even paint that has been on there for decades or centuries , so be precise about where you put it.. and do not let it get on your skin or on your eyes or near any mucous membranes..like your nose..etc ..wash your hands after using it, or touching anything that it touches..and don't drink or sniff it..yeah I know..but some people might be dumb enough to try ( it is like rule 34 , but Darwin awardish* ) ..so .. * look it up..Darwin awards..
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What is a "treading pattern" ?..of any sewing machine, Singer or otherwise ?
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Could they be for putting onto the end of square cut laces , or some other small cross-section square cut leather strips..like a sort of "aglet" but for larger cross-section laces or straps..They look like the split part would / could be crimped / squeezed/hammered down into the leather ( maybe ? ) and the "tip" of the leather rammed into the pointed part, which would then be crimped or squeezed, or even hammered down into the leather to hold it..The leather strap ends might be pointed to fit , to follow the triangular part into a point.. Or..it might be nothing like that at all..
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Thanks for that information..I might just order some ( from your very kindly provided Amazon link above ) to see it in action..I have some things which involve a lot of filigree in lightweight chrome tan leather ( around 2.00 mm and 1.5mm and under, down to 0.5mm ) "sprayless"* adhesive would be easier to manipulate, and allow me to make the filigree areas larger and more detailed.. Hmmm..Thanks again :) *my system doesn't think "sprayless" is a word..but "spray less" which it does think is correct, doesn't mean the same thing..
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Heh :) Indeed it is the price that we willingly pay.. It's not so much "remote" as in France everything like that either comes from suppliers in Paris, or has to be imported..I buy elastic from the UK in small quantities ( under 1000 metres ) or from China in quantities over 1000 metres.. There is an American guy with a business based in Paris who is the supplier haberdashery for many pro users here, even some of the big labels that do not have their clothes made for them in various parts of Asia..but he is selling Chinese elastic ..at minimum quantities of 5000 metres per style , per colour, per type..when he is out of stock..he doesn't carry much "in stock"..you have to wait for 3 to 6 weeks ( his is obviously coming shipped from China ) ..His prices are 5 times what I pay direct from China..and twice the price I pay in the UK, even with shipping calculated in.. There is one other supplier in France who apparently supplies every chain store and sewing shop in the country, they are around his price..and their stuff comes from China.. Neither of them have the range of styles, colours or finishes that I can get from the UK or China.. A lot of small business in the fashion/ apparel manufacturing sector , even lingerie, buy from the UK ( they are going to find BREXIT makes life difficult for them ) or from China..The large or small "couture houses" in Paris ( who can charge so much for their finished goods, that they don't care how much their raw materials cost them, buy from the American guy, or people that he supplies in Paris ) , same applies for buttons, ribbons, buckles rivets, snaps etc etc.. Or some of us get some things from Italy, like buckles, D rings, buttons, rivets etc..Which is where the Parisian suppliers get a lot of theirs from..unless they make their own, like the people who make the buckles and hardware for Hermes etc.. ps..With that adhesive film, wouldn't you still have to cut around all the filigree detail areas and then remove the film from the "holes" before applying heat via an iron or a press ?