mikesc

Very nice..I'm thinking all hand sewn ?..I like the "pick bracelet".

Ah..where to purchase from in the USA I couldn't say ..I'm in France, but, I do know that the advertisers here and thus supporters here are based mostly ( maybe all of them are ? ) in the USA ( their banners are "up top" ) many of them sell thread, and if they were too expensive, or sold junk we'd have heard about it ( and we haven't :)), so I'd go with them, whichever has the colours that you want and is nearest (for the shipping )..you may get more recommendations if you re-post your 1st post ( with "where can I get polyester thread" tagged on at the end of it in the "suppliers" section . http://leatherworker.net/forum/forum/21-suppliers/

Polyester thread ( better protection against UV than nylon ) #69 or #92..and welcome :) Floyd does a lot of canvas for exterior I think, he could advise you on specifics.

Thanks for posting that, it will save some people a whole lot of time and research , and money.. An additional note for you, if you ever get the chance to get any of the older French made rivet / eyelet / grommet / snap setters made by "Daude", the setters are all 8mm threaded into the "piston" ( "the piston" itself has a very coarse "thread" lowers it in the cast iron frame when the integral handle is swung / turned ) that's the top part..the lower part of the "die" is held in place in the lower part of the casting by a small set screw. The lower "die" part on mine incorporates a tiny spring.

:) You think that posts in a section referring to other posts in that same section, but using another name for the section is confusing ? :) Wait 'til you read what some people call the parts of the top thread that are showing on the underside of a machine stitched line because the tensions are not right, or what some people say is the official name for "thread snips"..or "cones" I'm still wondering what is the definition of "Sonoma leather"..some places use that Sonoma term for faux / artificial leather* ( plastic or PVC )..some show it as a leather ( with no explanation at all .maverickleather I'm looking at you here )..and some places use it along with lambskin..except if they allow leather to be used for what is PVC ( and thus IMO and in most legal definitions the use of the word leather there is wrong and shouldn't be used for any kind of plastic , no matter what it is trying to look like ) ..does that mean Sonoma is real leather ( if so from what animal, and treated how ), or fake or plastic ?..To me Sonoma is where wine comes from, and I know a grape grower / wine producer there who tells me he doesn't see many lambs or sheep. *You'd ( or at least I would ) think that "leather" would be a "protected" term..that would mean that ebay and Amazon et al couldn't run ads from people selling "PU leather"..and they'd have to say "polyurethane plastic items" for sale.

main page http://leatherworker.net/forum/ tips and tricks ( yes, it is actually called "how do I do that" ) http://leatherworker.net/forum/forum/36-how-do-i-do-that/ HTH :)

From the shape you have, looks like you are looking for what was / is called a "little Joe" Stetson type. The longer edge is indeed sewn to the hat. One way to get around the problem that you have, is to make the sweat band from a circle of smooth textile "ribbon" ( use a fairly stiff version ) about one and a half to one and three quarter inches wide..the length is dependent on the hat size.Then turn over and make a quarter inch "hem" ( make it neat, you are going to be threading a ribbon into and all around it later ) on the side that you will not be sewing to the hat. Sew the sweat band into a loop ( circle ) by sewing the ends together, but stop short just before the hem edge, so as to leave the "hem" edge unsewn, so that you can pass a quarter inch ribbon all around it and back out again ( like a draw cord ) leave about 2 inches of this ribbon surplus at each end of the hem ( because you are going to use them to tie a bow there later ). Now sew the side of your "sweat band" without the "draw ribbon" to your hat, ( most comfortable way for the hat wearer, is to sew it into place exactly as it would be if being worn, ( flat against the "inside" as opposed to "hanging outside" and then inverted, if you do the latter, you get a hard uncomfortable seam in there, right where it will press ) all around the inside of the hat, right up close to the join between the hat "head part" and the brim ( some hats, particularly felt hats don't have a seam there because they are made from one piece that is "formed", but some do have a join ) .When it is attached all the way around, pull on the "drawstrings" to make that edge of the sweatband slightly smaller and thus it will "fit" and hold..You could use elastic here instead, if so, don't stretch it more than say 10% or 15% when fitting, or it will be uncomfortable. When it fits, either tie off the elastic ( neater is to sew the ends flat together ) or tie a bow in the drawstring ribbon and iron it flat so that it doesn't press against the skull.When you sew the sweatband in, do so so that the bow would be at the back and centre, where any extra seaming would be cushioned from the skull by the hair. No hair? Iron the bow flatter :) HTH ps..this is how the "Little Joes" from Eddy bros are done...I have some right here. To size for a hat, measure around the skull , one inch above the ears, and with the tape higher at the front of the head than the back ( needs to be below the round part of the skull at the back and about halfway up the forehead( ish *) at the front. *depends on how low you like to wear your hats. There are probably posts here about Stetson style hat making. try searching ( copy and paste the next line complete into search engine of your choice and hit enter )for site: leatherworker.net Stetson

Very impressive :)

You should just tell it to "hop it".

"Alec Guinness voice and hand wave" These are not the machines you are looking for.. "/Alec Guinness voice and hand wave" Seriously young Padawan..they are not.

You are on the same system as me..metric..so..you need a 140 needle.and, as Matt says also get some a size smaller, so size 120 ,and bigger 160..the needle point depends on what you are trying to sew..and also on what kind of stitch you'd like. Matt beat me to it :-) and in more detail :-)

Scalpel.

Love it :)

Actually the use of smaller pulleys with various types of motors has been mentioned many times here over the years, perhaps no-one mentioned it in this thread because they thought people might "search" before saying "nobody else has mentioned" ?

Need a signal.. like the batman one..for..RockyAussie

Known as "doing a Ratner". ;-) So named for Gerald Ratner.. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gerald_Ratner Ron Morgan is lucky not to have had the same effect.

variation of a clutch purse ?

I don't play guitar, but I have slapped a bass* quite a bit, and I'm that "size" ( maybe just a little lighter, 240 ) ,haven't got a strap to hand to measure, but measuring with a tape where I'd have a strap worn, I'd say go with the 66..there are going to be attachment holes at either end anyway ( IIWY , I'd make say 3 holes at each end, just far enough apart that you could cut some off without it looking like you had, if the strap is too long ) so if it is a tad long he'll just not be using the very last holes...and..it is way easier to cut some off at each end , and neaten up the "new ends" if it is really way too long, that it is to add leather back on. *Bass is a longer neck and a different shape, but.. ps..I'm curious how anyone plays an acoustic guitar "low slung", unless they have really long arms. pps..if he has more than one guitar , then multiple attachment holes may not be a bad idea anyway, necks and bodies are not the same length from one guitar to another, yes straps are adjustable, but that would give you a little extra "wiggle room"..and again, you can "cut a little off" far easier than "stitch a little back on".

Depends, if "the handle" is / was already being used by another leatherworker, ethics and decency , not to mention courtesy would say that one could not use another's "handle". Also ,if "the handle" or "logo" or "brand" or "makers mark" or name , is / was already being used by another leatherworker or business or company etc or in conjunction with leather items, using it would be illegal..not just abuse of copyright, but also in many countries would be criminal ( in the UK for example it would be considered amongst other things as "passing off" ) the various laws that it would be breaking depend on the countries and most "names" are valid EU wide ( meaning you can't use* in one country a name that has been registered ( prior to your use ) in another country for a similar business )..It is similar legislation to that relating to "trademarks". From a practical point of view, if anyone is considering eventually using a "name" for a business, it make sense to see if it is available in their own country and not already in use fro a similar business..for example ..you could be "orangeleather" and "orange leather garage" could not say anything, but "orange leather bags" could very easily prevent you doing so. Worth thinking about too ( in the case of someone in the UK** )is .."is the dot com" of your name available ? and the .co.uk and the .uk ( and maybe the .net ) and the ( at least until brexit happens in 2019 ) the .eu..Most people type the dot com , and even for those who do not, the dot com and the .co.uk and the .uk say "credible business" <= people will take out their credit card and order..whereas orangeleather.biz ..they are less likely to do so. Graphics, something many people forget when designing a "logo" or "mark"..is KISS..make it too "wordy" ..and most will either not bother reading it, or they won't remember it, you'll be "the place where we bought the leather "thing", can't remember their name, you know, wossname" ( "wossname" is already registered ) ..make the name and the logo or mark something that they will remember ( don't ask friends and / or family what they think of your ideas, they'll say what they think you want to hear )..ideally you should choose a logo or a mark that does not require words, because some customers don't read so well, some customers maybe don't have English*** as a first language. Very simple example.."orangeleather"..use the leather symbol ( because it says "leather" in most languages ) , just that..make it orange rather than brown or beige..or use it "orange" inside it write "orange leather", on two lines and in a simple typeface..I can think of other "riffs" on the same idea, some of them better, one in particular, but, as I used to say to my students ( I taught graphics and life drawing, sculpture, design and other things at artschool / university for a time, a long time ago ) " thinking is good for you".." and " businesses pay a great deal of money to have logos designed for them, I know , I've designed some that paid me very very well, so, I'll prime the ideas pump for you, but I won't do the work, nor give away the best ideas, not for less than 5 figures in front of the decimal, in cash".. Something that signwriters ( many of the old school ones were / are far better graphic designers than many "designers" ) know too, make it so it is "readable" and "understandable" and "sticks in your mind" if it is written on the side of a truck going the other way at 50mph..think MS ( with all the variants upon windows logo down the years ), think Mickey D, think Coke and Pepsi ( similar but distinct ) or the double C of Chanel of the interlinking letters of YSL.. Those ( and many others ) "work"..and then think of some of the worst examples of the joss-sticks and whalesong "designer logos"..such as the UK Olympics logo in 2012 Some background to "logo" design..( note who owns ca.com..probably not who you'd think at first guess) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Logo If you want to see some real "horrors" type "bad logo design" into a search engine..( the UK Olympics 2012 one is probably up there in the all time top 10 bad designs ) plenty of articles about what not to do..and why not. One last thing..leatherwork is a "craft", so it is natural to want to include imagery that says "craft"..but, bear in mind that we know what a swivel knife is , but most people buying leather items have no idea what is "that weird stick like thing with a sickle curve on one end"..especially when it is really small like on a makers mark..whereas an outline of a saddle, with a name, will work for anyone from Delaware to Darwin passing through Vladivostok and Tokyo. HTH :-) *there are exceptions , but don't count on them, finding that you do not fall into the "can use" can be expensive ..most registered business will fight for "damages"..losing to them could break you for years to come. **same kind of thing applies to those in other countries, if you are in the USA, better if you can get the dot com and the dot net and the dot us. *** Even in your own country, you may have potential customers whose first language is not the same as your first language..words can be far more of a barrier to communication ( and sales ) than well thought out images.

The size limit here allows for extremely detailed images to be uploaded..as you can see from the images in this thread. http://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/78563-show-your-shop/?do=getNewComment All you have to do is to reduce the data size of your images..which usually means shrink them to be 800 x 600 pixels..do that and you'll get about 5 of them within the 1.4 megs total image data limit per post..or make multiple posts. don't know how to shrink them ? say what your operating system is ( windows "something"<=which one , mac, bsd, linux , android, iphone )..and someone will be able to tell you how to shrink them with free software.

Thanks for that Uwe :-) Iwas following , and was somewhat in the dark as to what was the subject, as was the subject. Were / are there many left handed versions of machines, not just Singers ?

"What is your suggestion ?" That you upload your images here and not to 3rd party sites such as imgur ( who are, as I have posted a few days ago, in the red and who will ether go under or have to charge, like all the other image hosters have..when they are not paid, the images disappear, and anyone reading this thread will not see them , because there will be nothing at the end of your links.Loads of threads ( and "sigs" ) and even some tutorials here have this problem already ..the "please upgrade your account" message in some sigs in an example.

Hey..I resemble that remark ..

braid wrap

That is cute :-)