mikesc

Ok..so that depends on what you mean by "handle"..what form do you want it ( the handle ) to take..and do you want it to be made from leather, and ( if you do ? ) do you want it to be made from the same piece as the wrap..and with or without sewing..and what thickness of leather to use for each part of the "assembly". Btw..a comma or two in that sentence, would aid one in making sense of it.

Depends entirely on what you mean by vertically or rotationally.. or both..multiple solutions, all of them easy, each solution takes less than 30 seconds to do ..if you make the leather "wrap" ( making the "leather wrap" is not included in the 30 seconds solutions )carefully.

Three ( there are actually four but we don't talk about the fourth ) things in this world are certain.. Death, Taxes and Topic Drift.

golatest.top is owned by this guy Registry Registrant ID: C20170812C_19802278-top Registrant Name: John Davis Registrant Organization: John Davis Registrant Street: 1515 Route Ten Registrant City: Parsippany Registrant State/Province: NEW JERSEY Registrant Postal Code: 07054-4596 Registrant Country: US Registrant Phone: +1.6157864128 Registrant Phone Ext: Registrant Fax: Registrant Fax Ext: Registrant Email: the .top registry is run out of China 3rd Floor,BangNing Technology Park,#2 YuHua Avenue,Yuhuatai District, Nanjing, China golatest.top looks like it might be a kind of unholy cross between a "knock off" seller, a copyright and patent abuser..and a scammer.No actual contact details or any information about who owns them anywhere on their site. But they say that they'll do all kinds of research on their customers..including credit checks..I certainly wold not put any credit card details into any part of that site..IFAIK USA sites ( those whose owners are based in the USA )have to have contact details and owners details visible on the site...and a throw away yahoo email addy for all "contacts"

I agree totally there..I think of Mutt as a personification of the kind of "welcome" that favourite relatives used to give when you knocked on their door when I was a kid..you make the place warmer Mutt..good man :-)

mu Beautiful photos :-)

The pictures that you have posted are nice deep colours , red and black, and good vibrant white letter outlining, your browns look good to with a nice depth and warm ( but not glossy ) "sheen"..re "diluting" either product ..I'd be inclined to go for the "if it ain't broken, don't get trying to fix it" school of thought and practice..adding water ( even pure distilled water ) can make acrylic resins go "milky" sometimes over dark colours, and adding denatured alcohol to dyes can ( again , sometimes ) make some of the dyes constituent colours "separate"* out a bit, which would risk them going on "blotchy" or developing that metallic sheen. *dyes are very rarely one colour they are usually a mixture of colours, you can see what is "in there" by diluting a small amount of dye with some denatured alcohol ( about 50/50 ) and then hanging a long strip of filter paper ( like coffee filter paper) into the solution so that the bottom of the paper only is in the solution, the solution will "climb" the paper and if there is more than one dye colour in there, each colour will only climb up so much, so you can get a kind of "rainbow" effect on a long strip of paper with some colours.. Chromatography.

In fashion work /design..making the "rough" version out of something cheap..is called making the "toile" ( French..pronounced twal..rhymes with Al..like Al Jolson ) or making the "muslin" ( which pronounces just how you'd think ) ..when you've cut the cheap stuff, usually cheap fabric ( carton or paper can work to substitute for veg tan or stiff leather )..you can , pin, adjust, cut, fold , whatever til you get it right..saves you making some potentially very expensive mistakes with some very expensive materials or leather .

$1500.00 is about what the shipping would cost me..I think I'm safe from that ( maybe scam )..but.. Thanks for researching it for anyone else reading..can never be too careful.

Six fingers is NFN

That would seem to be the far more sensible and secure option.

Because you see someone else copy another person's work or design, or use it, post it etc without the original creator's written permission, does not make it ethical to do so ( it is highly unethical )..nor does it make it legal ( it is illegal ) the laws relating to / governing copyrights were agreed a long time ago in legislation signed by many countries ( including the USA ) "The Berne Convention"..they apply to all citizens and companies etc in each signatory country. In a simple form the laws say.."all creative works are automatically copyright, they do not need to say so , they may not be reproduced, nor may derivatives be made from them, without the written permission of the original creator of the work". You would take a car that did not belong to you just because you saw someone take the one which did not belong to them that was parked in front of it..You wouldn't claim a melody or a song ( lot of people get sued over songs and melodies and music ) or a piece of writing was yours , if it was based on something done by someone else..and you wouldn't post a picture from the NYT or post a big chunk of an an article from them without asking them for their permission, ( and getting it, in writing ) ..so , don't do it it the smaller guy / girl..otherwise it is saying that you know that ripping off ( stealing ) other peoples ideas is wrong, but is OK if you think that you can get away with it..Like stealing candy from a little kid, but only as long as their dad or mom isn't there to stop you.. Giving "attribution"..is not a get out..you have to have the original creator's written permission to use it first..You can't take a car or candy and say "it's OK..I got it from them "..." I'm only borrowing it, I'll give them credit for where I took it from, I'll maybe even give it back later, they'll love the exposure"..They won't love the "exposure"..that is like raping someone and saying that "they are so cute, here is their address, they'd love for you to visit and maybe do the same to them". It is easy to understand , if you are honest..

In their "webmaster's" haste to copy and paste someone else's site, they have also left the original business name all over the place " building supplies"..Their SEO specialist understands Google well though, ( not that it is difficult to fool G ) they have a "six pack" when you search their domain name... There appear to be traces of the same company name in Malaysia.. I'd tend to agree with Constabulary and Uwe..I would not send them any funds, not even via an LC.. There is someone on here from Indonesia, I can't remember his name ATM, he has large stock of unusual machines that he has inherited, was posting frequently last year , maybe he can shed some light.. he might be close enough to them to be able to say whether they have machines or are just an address and a website ..

Sometimes things go better with music..may I suggest "emojinal rescue"..~;-))

Steal ? ..If I lived in the USA I'd bite their arm off at that price..

In France you can get the right size belts from mower shops, so it is worth a try where you are..if you are using a smaller pulley, look for belts with teeth, they are able to get around the smaller diameter pulley better.

Very nice..may I ask.. where did you get the bearing(s) ?

I'm thinking that Darren is "the source" :-) And would probably be perfectly happy to sell them to you, and any one else interested. By no means the first time that he has posted things that no one else has, no one else has heard of, or "hands on" advice that is not available elsewhere..

Nice ..Classy ..

I didn't read it, but in the light of your original post ..I thought you might want it .. I try to avoid manualslib et al..preferring to go to ( or to point people to ) "the original source"..

Link to free copy of the user manual for the Dürkopp 239 from Dürkopp's site .. https://www.duerkopp-adler.com/export/sites/duerkoppadler/commons/download/public/239/B_238_239_245_249_372_380_541_DE_EN.pdf copy and paste all of it to your address bar..and hit "enter"

I'm pretty sure that the machine that you'll need will be determined by the maximum thickness that you need to sew.. That said Uwe's attachments are very well made and make a machine far more versatile.

You should never go "around the post" ( at the tension discs ), it is there just to stop the tension discs from spinning instead of placing tension on the thread by squeezing them.."he" ( in the video ) is totally wrong. to the OP Ryanww..you also have a metal "finger" ( fastened with a screw to the machine body, it is sticking out across the thread path at a horizontal angle ) just above your needle thread guide..You are going behind this ..so your thread is rubbing on the machine body ( it has obviously been doing so for a while, there are other wear lines )try going in front of this metal bar ( so that the thread is resting against it before it carries on down to the needle thread guide ) this will add a little more top tension ( every "smidgen" can help down there )..combing that with what Rocky Aussie and Northmount said should help.

More or less that way, yes, on some surfaces you'd put a "size" ( sort of glue ) to get the gold leaf to hold on ,place the guide ( like a ruler which in some cases the embossing wheel clips onto, push or pull it along, the gold gets stuck to the size , which in turn sticks to the leather, combination of pressure on the rollers and the glue effect of the size )..If you aren't using real gold ( can use hot foil which is polyester with metallic foil which has a backing that will stick with heat ) then it is easier..Principal is the same though. I seem to remember seeing a system in the past that would lay the hot foil along just in front of the hot roller ( lot of different pattern roller wheels available ) and it came with various guides available. It can be done with templates ( which will get you the curves ) but you'd need to be doing a lot of the same size to make having the template system made in curves worthwhile..the shorter the repeat", the easier it is to make curves, the diameter of the roller is smaller on a short "repeat" and so can do a tighter radius curve. The corner details and end details can be done with bookbinding tools, or even old letterpress printers decorations..even used to be able to find decorative rulers and guides and "blocks" for letterpress printers which could be used in a pinch for hot foil or gilding work. When you do any embossing with real gold, you rub the gold off ( and recover it for sending back to the leaf supplier, who will credit you with the value )..Burnishing is done ( traditionally ) by rubbing with a wolf's tooth burnisher , or an agate burnisher*, a dogs tooth will work just as well as a wolf's tooth. That will get you a shiny surface..to have a satin surface ( warmer to look at ) go over again with a soft cotton lint free cloth. You'd use an agate burnisher more to do things like 3D surfaces , picture frames, sculptures and so on..Lot of gold leaf sculptures are actually wooden sculptures with a smoothed gesso layer all over and then coloured grounds ( boles ) followed by "size" onto which the gold leaf is then laid and burnished. Lots of different recipes for boles and sizes. If talasonline ( I haven't looked at the link yet to see what they have ) have the rollers, ask them to supply ( if they have some rolls of hot foil , the polyester type )..use these to practice with before moving onto real gold ( mistakes while learning can get expensive with real gold foil )..if they don't have straight line guides ( or complete systems ) then you should be able to make something with some long straight edges ( the kind that picture framers use to make the "passe-partouts.. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Passe-partout the cardboard cut outs that watercolour paintings are placed against the back of when they are framed before they are placed in their glass mounts ) ..these coloured card windows have "frame lines" added by hand for which you use long metal straight edges that lock ( via metal dowels ) into the framers bench / table..you can get these in 1 metre or sometimes even two metre lengths..( normally you'd stitck some sandpaper , fine grain onto the "contact side" to stop the cardboard sliding.. You can protect the leather surface from the contact side by placing strips of cardboard under the metal straight edges.. Practice lots before trying long straight lines , work up to them beginning with a line of a foot long and going up in 6 inch increments.. How you stand is important , you need to be making a smooth motion , parallel to the surface , from beginning to end of your lines , not an arc. Practice even more before trying curves. edited for typos ( I was typing fast whilst cooking..and my system underlines every word as "wrong" )..hope the above makes sense..I'll take a look at the talas site and see what they have later and if I can think of any "tips" I'll post again maybe tomorrow or later tonight my time ( 22.00 hrs here..dinner will be late ) ..:)

"embossing wheel"..that's what I meant by "roller" above..the name escaped me at the time..