mikesc

"bronze roads" ..bronze rods..or New England accent ;) ? Problem with that advice is that bronze is a metal alloy..or to be more accurate which bronze you have determines what is in the alloy and what the percentages of each metal are in relation to the whole ( and how much carbon, there will be some. there is in your bronze etc )..There is no bronze in the periodic table of elements, and no set formula for what is meant by "bronze"..bronze is about as accurate a term as "cheese"..Problem when you don't know what is in it and in what proportions is that you then don(t know at what temp it will begin to melt, what temp it will begin solidifying, what the flow will be like, what ( and how ) it will combine with, how strong will be the resulting alloys ( secondary and tertiary alloys ) at the joining faces of the weld, what will be the penetration characteristics etc etc. aside..Working with bronze in any form is "interesting", and bronze casting is an art..repairing bronze castings is far harder than repairing cast iron..although cast iron is also a bit of a vague term, cast iron is also full of non iron impurities and other elemental improvements..metallurgy is a whole set of degrees and studies and disciplines in itself. You can do trial and error to find out how any given welding rods will work on any given welding job of course, but in the OPs case that would mean deliberately breaking off other parts just to see how they welded back together. Nice part of the work Neil..( and superb photo ) but not surprised to hear that the machine arrived broken if it was delivered by mountain bike over that sort of terrain

There is of course also the problem that if the OP tries to drill and pin with JBweld ( or any other epoxy resin that they can get in what is apparently "darkest furthest reaches of Scotland ) and the drill bit snaps off, the tap breaks, or the drilling makes more of the cast iron break off. Then they are screwed.. True welding will then be out, as welding two substantial parts together is possible..welding three ( or more ) parts some of which would then be tiny would not be possible without very very expensive and specialised equipment.

Problem with any ideas of drilling two holes ( one either side of the shaft ) tapping them and pinning them on the OPs machine..is that only one side ( the upper side as we look at the photo ) has enough metal to be able to drill a hole..The shaft goes through the metal "off centre"..look carefully at the lower part of the break, and there is less than 5mm of metal available to drill there..and the break is holding the shaft in place, so there is really maybe only 3mm of metal "drillable" without hitting the shaft..If the drill bit has to be centred ( it does ) that means only 1mm of metal will be left to either side of the hole..Into this 1mm "wall" you'd have to tap a thread..I have ( as do no doubt many of you ) tiny tap and die sets..( right down to watch makers sizes ) measure the diameter of the smallest practical tap that would hold in cast iron..that will be the 2mm one..and you'll realise that although there is enough metal to work with and drill into at the ( as we look at it ) "top" of the break.. There is not enough metal to drill and tap into at the bottom of the break. Cast iron is fairly rough crystalline structure..large crystals..requires coarse taps..which is why Singer etc used coarse taps..coarse taps need larger diameter holes in order for bolts and screws to hold..The "thread" part cannot be a lager proportion of the diameter than either the shaft of the screw or bolt, of the hole that the screw or bolt is going into. How many 1mm or 2mm diameter screws or bolts do you find screwed into any cast iron parts on your Singers ? There is also the matter of holding a part steadily enough to be able to drill it with small diameter drills and using small diameter taps..both of which are very brittle and will snap easily..Singers were drilled and machined after casting in cradles to hold them steady..( as can be seen in the Singer film in the Scottish archives ) ..they were not using Dremels and bench drills on a sewing machine head casting which would have to be turned upside down..and locked rigidly "on it's back" before drilling with highly brittle fragile tiny diameter drill bits and taps..and if the drill bit so much as glances off the shaft while it's making the hole in that very restricted less than 3mm wide area..it will break due to the differences in the density and hardness of the two metal across the shaft of the drill bit. ps ..if JBweld was actually called JBglue ( which is truly what it is..it does not weld anything, no resin glue does ) then people would not think that it can do "magic"..epoxies do not "fuse" metal together..they stick it.. Marketing does not actually triumph over physics or chemistry..only in peoples expectations and beliefs.. Pins and loctite ( another brand name for an epoxy resin ) will work in many situations..it is actually how most restoration and repair of antique statues is done..and there are variants of the technique used in surgery ( and much research currently being done on the possible "glues" ) but there must be enough "whatever" available to be able to drill into..and a two second glance at the OP photo shows that is not the case on the lower part of the break..I presume Eric and Bob noticed that immediately too.

'Nother vote for Irfanview..Swiss army knife of image manipulation software for all versions of windows..portable versions will also run easily on linux via wine..and may run on macs.. Only download it from the programmer's own site..places like majorgeeks etc tend to load crapware in with it..

"between the cylinder heads"..heads..so a V block then..not an inline..and a crack on the outside ( maybe, or maybe not over a bearing saddle, which in any engine is always thicker ..ie ..more metal..and a non stressed part..but which might leak..so could be repaired with epoxy.. Rather than on the inside..a completely broken off bearing saddle..what we would call the "bearing cap castings"<= which would be the part that would correspond to the part broken on the machine of the OP..and which is a stressed part..in an engine..or sewing machine..which could not successfully be repaired with epoxy. "Master ASE Certified Automotive technician ,"..sorry..and I normally try to avoid such contests..but I think that a degree in physics and another in chemistry ( and some others in related and unrelated subjects ) plus been doing my own engine work ..and custom engine work on bikes boats and cars since the late 60's..sort of gives me the edge on epoxies and what they can and can't do..and the professional machine mechanic<=Eric..and the Machine importer<=Bob..seem to be more to my way of thinking..I know who I'd trust to work on a machine that I owned..or whose advice I'd listen too..and already do.. Epoxies such as JBWeld are known ( or used to be known ) in the UK as "Bodgers putty"..barely better than two part "bondo"..and chemically very very similar.. Usually used by those who cannot weld ( or "lead" in the case of "body bondo" ) to precision standards..resins are usually to be used with specific tissues or fabrics ( glass fibre, carbon fibre, kevlar etc )..and then you can use them to make panels and chassis ( frames ) and whatever , even some engines, or engine parts, depending on the temps they reach ), with great strength ..NASA etc do .. But resins are not for professional long term repairs to cast metal..( with the possible exception of sticking sheets of metal to other sheets of metal or other substances,such as flat surface items to cast iron* , or where the surface areas compared to the loads and stress are in greater proportions, so you can use resins to stick sandwiches of diverse metals to each other, or to non metal substances ) especially cast iron<= this is why you don't stick engine mounting blocks to engines with epoxies..they won't stay "stuck".. Some of us spent many years using resins for our professional work..some of folks ( usually non professionals ) use them for a "quick fix"..which is why you find them at the supermarket next to the kitty litter. Resins are what the modern "plastic" home sewing machines are made from..and are fine for fixing / glueing broken parts on them..but they are not how pros fix metal parts in or on pro machines.. * epoxy used to stick a flat plate to a flat piece of preped cast iron will work..providing the vibrations are low, the stress forces are low, and especially the "shear" forces are low..if there is vibration to deal with Urethanes would be better for that ..but not to stick the OPs machine back together..they are sticky, but flexible..and you don't want flexible there..epoxy also degrades over time and in the presence of other chemicals..How fast it does so can be unpredictable.. I'd rather fix what I fix to be sure to last..( I make my stuff the same way ) than hope I get lucky re "the lasting" with a JBweld or other "quick and easy, cheap fix".. Going to make quality items, use quality equipment, use quality materials, make quality repairs..do the best you can..( and be proud of what you do or make )..Don't use the quickest, easiest, cheapest that you can..leave that way of thinking to walmart. btw..Bodger in that sense is not what Harry ( member here does..) bodger in colloquial English means "unskilled, uncaring worker"..makes cheap crappy items, or repairs ..

"valley"= ?..I have absolutely no idea which part of car or engine that could be .. but..I'll bet it isn't a camshaft bearing casting / saddle or a crankshaft bearing casting /saddle epoxy is epoxy ..which ever country one is in..chemistry is chemistry.. One of the worlds best two part epoxy "with charge" is Milliput..made in Wales..still wouldn't use it for that kind of repair..as a sealer ..yes..like for cracks in engine blocks or gear boxes.. But..for sticking cast iron parts together which are under stress and are "saddles" for spinning shafts or the bearings of spinning shafts..no..when you know what the molecules that are doing the sticking actually are doing ( that is more physics than chemistry ) and look like.and when you know what the crystalline ( yes it is a crystalline structure, that's why it looks as it does ) structure of cast iron can be ..and what impurities can be in it that epoxies may not want to bond to effectively.. Making a bracket ..or a bracket that wraps around an epoxied ( and drilled tapped and pinned or bolted shaft saddle ) and if that "cradling bracket" is itself then bolted to the machine bed, so everything is held rigid, is indeed one way..but, I'd weld it , if it were mine. If you do go the JBweld or other epoxy route..you must degrease and de-oil the surfaces totally..very thorough acetone cleaning of the mating surfaces before applying the epoxy..and keep your fingers ( which have grease even when freshly washed ) away before applying epoxy ..same applies when you are painting, lacquering etc.. *Some people are allergic to epoxies..so wear gloves ( non latex type hospital lightweight surgeons gloves..in case you are allergic to latex )..that will also keep your natural finger grease out of the mixture..turn the gloves inside out before disposal..

JB Weld = brand name of an epoxy resin two part "mix"( with a light "charge" of metallic dust )? ..if so.. it wont hold up..unless the two parts are also drilled through either side of the shaft and then the holes tapped and the parts bolted through together so that the bearing shaft saddle is then splinted or pinned together..and even then.. With real welding..the grease and oil may run, so..repack re grease and oil..better still is to fully strip ( disassemble ) the machine, taking loads of pictures along the way so as to know what goes where when putting it all back..and then weld the break as per Eric and Bob.. You wouldn't two part epoxy resin ( no matter what the manufacturers claim their product can do ) a crank or a camshaft end bearing saddle on a car , or any motor ,and expect it to hold up.. edit...just seen your post..sending it to Bilston ( if they still do that kind of work ) means more "transport"..try to find some one who welds / repairs cast iron stoves or cast iron antiques..or even an experienced sculptor who welds, or repairs or restores bronze, or cast iron statues.. Cost ..no idea..haven't lived in the UK for near 30 years, but I'd be surprised if the actual welding cost you more than the price of a bottle of "leapfrog" or Talisker storm"..some of the small outfits who work welding around rigs or nuke stations can do this kind of thing while watching the rugby on the TV and playing darts..if you take it to them stripped and ready..ask around.. 2nd edit..if you are near the sea ? try some of the people who repair boat engines..inboard not outboard..outboards are usually alloys..inboards are bigger and usually have a lot of cast iron parts..which crack or break, and need welding..so the people who repair them are good at fiddly cast iron work.

"stitch welding" will work on engine blocks and gear boxes ( mostly it is a way to seal cracks in the walls of them )..but not a small surface area part like that, which is subject to stresses..but as Bob and Eric have said careful prep , pre heating and nickel rod welding with spot points to begin with ( rather than all at once from one end of the break to the other ) should do it fine.. Used to be a whole load of small specialised workshops around Bilston ( Staffs ) who could do this kind of work "with their eyes shut"..

Wiz has the sort that you are looking at I think..maybe some others here have them..IFAIK the dealers on here can fit a 2" pulley to them before they ship them to you ( dealers who specialize in leather machines know that the smaller pulley is the one that their clients are gong to want, but specify it when you order anyway )..Best reason for buying from a dealer who is on here is that they will stand by their merchandise..and you won't be faced with dealing with China if you get a "dud" ( which can happen, as no dealer has the time to check each individual motor that they ship out ) and need a return or an exchange. re the number of "brands" of anything..you'd be amazed ( or maybe not ) just how few true manufacturers are actually making what is sold under various "brands" in all walks of life..I know the "biker leather","country and western" and the "sexy leather" market very well, most of what you see marked made in the USA is not actually made in the USA..by most I mean as much as 90% of the big brands merchandise..that is from jackets to saddle bags to grips to paddles to fringe waistcoats to bras and corsets and BDSM wear..and their margins are huge..buy in a real leather corset for $20.00 from Asia sell it with a US brand label for $350.00..or really good quality ( brands that you all know ..and maybe wear ) biker jacket made in Asia for $50.00 , the "brand" lining sewn in in Asia..shipped to the USA and have just one final short seam sewn ( or the label with made in USA ) sewn in in the USA..and sold for $500.00 and upwards in the stores.. eg..I have a leather item ( women's luxury wear ) that I designed many years ago..I have it made in Asia..I pay $20.00 per piece..the people who make it for me make the same item ( with my permission ) for others for around $25.00 ..luxury item ..sells in high end New York ( and elsewhere ) store for $650.00..has the importers "brand" on it..not the only item I have designed that this happens with A lot of "brands" work like this..profit is not so good on motors as on women's luxury wear..but very few "brands" make their own stuff..

Theory would say.. No..because they are obviously not each running their own factory in China where the servo motors are made ( and the Chinese that I have been in touch with are quite happy to "rebadge" if one orders smallish quantities ) ..There are however differences in where the controls are sited, what type of controls they are ( dial or digital display ) and what the lowest settable speed is ) ..the Jack motors ( which is what we Europeans seem to have..and which are what appear to be shipped to OZ under various names ) all have a digital display and speed control which is in a separate box that one can site away from the actual motor..so as to be where the "on/off" switch would be in a classical industrial machine set up .right hand side under front of table.. The motors in the US mostly appear to have a laser speed control box on the motor where the motor speed is governed by the interference with laser beam of a tongue on a pivoting arm actioned y the foot pedal...this type can be "modded" for smoother "ramping up"..some very good threads he re "how to mod" this type.. the other sort available in the US are the "dial on the body" type..these ( AFAIK ) cannot be modded..but may have a lower initial speed setting possible ..about 100 rpm . The Jacks ( and skyrits and most other ones that you'll see on alibaba or ebay out of China ) have a digital display control box that you can fix where your old switch would have been ..and the control at the motor is another box which is actioned by the foot pedal..the box at the motor end is not actioning a laser, it uses a magnetic system..and cannot be tweaked or modded..the lowest initial speed possible is 100rpm..and some models are set to 200rpm. Of course if you use a speed reducer pulley set up between any of the servo motors and your machine, you can get much slower again, and have more torque.. Price is not really a good indicator of quality..all the servo motors can be bought in smallish quantities from China for under $50.00 per unit.( with or without shipping ) before taxes dependent upon specs and quantity ordered

You can ( last time I looked ) buy the complete cars for not much in the UK ( due to their fuel consumption..especially the 6..it was always the underpowered one for the car's weight ) ..I have a red Sov Double Six ( V12 ) ( the nice one with the 4 round headlights and the "pepper pot" wheels ) in storage at St Trop..When I eventually bring it up here it will be via a detour into Italy to be converted to run on GPL or petrol ( gas on the left side of the pond )..without which at French gasoline prices I'd need to be followed by a fuel truck..Beige leather and burr walnut wood interior..immaculate..and in good running order..and cost me ( I actually got it in a straight traded ..I did some old style signwriting..asked around $700.00 for it..was offered the car in payment :)..nothing.. Indeed the handling and ride are great for a largish, heavy luxury saloon car ( compared to most cars in the UK or Europe ) ..and compared to some of the Caddys and other wallowers etc that I have driven in the US they appear quite small and sporty ;) I have a friend here who visits the US two or three times a year to buy, both old and new Corvettes and Mustangs to drive and sell here..he likes Jags..but prefers 'vettes..has kept a half dozen or so for himself..If ever I buy a sewing machine from the US, I'll have him swing by and collect it for me, bring it back here in the trunk :) My engine hoist* lives right next to my 29K. Every one has to have a treadle 29K and some sort of walking foot machine(s)..and an engine hoist ( for working on engines, and handy for working on sewing machines, and manoeuvring heavy metal and blocks of wood etc for sculpting )..Have yet to convince my wife that I need a milling machine / lathe.. ps..love the Lucas "smoke" : ) you think Lucas made dodgy electrics..you should see Renault..vehicle electrics from the twilight zone..

Jag..shift or auto..? depending on the answer he could fit an engine from a V12 (Jag or Sov )..But trying to fit a Chevy 350 small block..."mess" is being kind.. re.."disposable society" I posted a link to these lyrics before.."I Used to Work for Harvester"..sings a good song does Don..

What Constabulary said ..lose the current* motor ( you'll live longer that way ) get a servo motor.. *sorry , couldn't resist**.. **sorry again.. When these kind of "original" motors get ready to let the "magic blue smoke" out, they can be dangerous enough to let your own "magic blue smoke out".. You want to keep the original motor..mount it on a block of wood and use it for a door stop.. ps...cute engine poking it's head up there..:)

If Keystone did the service..why not ask them ( phone ) what might be going wrong, they know your machine far better than anyone on a forum?

If some are cotton..then braided wicks for oil lamps should work..here they are cheap ( couple of Euros per metre ) and are available in hardware stores in various thicknesses..I have various oil lamps as well as candles and LED lamps and "gennys" and UPSs in case the mains power goes out.

try also searching for wool felt engravers blanket ( what you use in etchers/engravers presses )<= old style printing :) you get an awful lot of wicks from a single etching blanket. Supplier in Australia http://www.mes.net.au/category/78-blankets HTH

search wool felt wick this was #3 http://www.sutherlandfelt.com/ specifically this page http://www.sutherlandfelt.com/wicking.htm they are in the USA HTH

Is it possible that is singermania's place ?

HTH Some thanks and or respect emoticons / kaomojis.. thanks (ʃƪˆ▿ˆ) this one can be thanks or respect ( also known as kowtow ) m(_ _)m (can also be used for apology, when it is known as dogeza ) tongue in cheek :-J or :J or ;J or even 8-;) further reading ( there is a lot of other reference material out of there, emoticons / kaomojis were used waaay before the internet was a gleam in TBL's eye ) http://www.gomotes.com/text-emoticons/ * the graphical smiley for tongue in cheek is disallowed ( post is refused ) on this forum !

Btw..using Google ( or Bing or whatever search engine ) like that to find what might be on a site works for any subject and any site.. this part ( with the full colon )like so site: tells the search engine to only look on a particular site next comes the name of the site ( could use any site name that you want to search ) in this case leatherworker.net and lastly ( after leaving a space between it and the name of the site ) comes what you are looking for mounting speed reducer put it all together site:leatherworker.net mounting speed reducer and voila ! I also ran ( for curiosity ).. site:leatherworker.net raccoons and got a whole bunch of threads from here with the word raccoons in them ..who'd a thunk it ..

copy and paste this following line ( exactly like it is ) into google site:leatherworker.net mounting speed reducer the results will be all the threads that are here on leatherworker.net about mounting speed reducers, many have photos of "how to" mount speed reducers like yours under flatbed machines like yours ( you have servo motor, some of the photos are of clutch motors and speed reducers, but the positioning is virtually the same, give or take a few millimetres ) ..the first two threads on those results will explain how to mount it..with photos.. http://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/8927-speed-reducer/ and this thread http://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/51826-adding-a-speed-reducer-to-a-flatbed/ HTH

How to install your speed reducer, will depend on what your speed reducer looks like, posting a photo of it will make any replies/advice much easier.

also available from strima..who are are cheaper ( not by much , but every little helps ) http://www.strima.com/91-046-280-04-004-pfaff-needle-nahradni-dil-c-x-2-4/item/641089/ HTH

You should get a cylinder arm ( small arm diameter ) walking foot machine ( you are working in tight spaces , which is what a cylinder arm is designed for )..and you want ( need ) a servo motor ( not a clutch motor ) for speed control.

So, it was knowing exactly where to hit it, how hard to hit it, and with precisely the correct size hammer ;)