mikesc

Singer 20U33, preferably the one with the thread holder stand that unfolds from the back of the machine, not the one that has the thread holder on the top of the machine with the thread reel horizontal and parallel to the machine. Parts are cheap, parts are easy to find, zig-zag is variable from 0 to 9 mm wide..zig-zag can be set to start from either left side or right side or to use the centre line..and the needle bar can also be "locked" to sew straight stitch.. Zig -zag "bight" ( width ) can also be varied while the machine is running ( this lets you do freehand embroidery ) by repositioning the Knee lifter bar system under the table to act on the stitch width controller..Takes less than 5 minutes and a small wrench ( spanner ) to do this..Working height ( sewing thickness available ) under the foot is around 6 to 8mm..mine sews the thicknesses that you need to with no problems. Usually has the slower ( 1750 RPM ) of the Singer clutch motors fitted as standard ( with an 80 or 90mm pulley )..so it is easier to control without fitting a servo motor, if it has the 1750 motor you can fit a 50mm pulley..slows it down still further..the motor shaft is tapered..so you need to get a 50mm pulley for tapered shaft. HTH you want this type..20U33 thread holder stand is at the back of the machine..can set the zig-zag on the machine face or vary it via the knee lifter...Not all 20U33 machines say 20U33 some just say 20U.. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=idix5audGjY not this type http://www.sewinginsight.com/singer/singer-20u-review/ thread holder is on the machine body..this model is older..zig-zag is not as wide..not all of them had the option of stitch width able to be controlled by the knee lifter.. Of course, if you could get one a Bernina would be even better..they can do 3 step zig-zag too ( but cannot be set to allow freehand ) and parts are waay more..likewise Necchi nice but hard to find..expensive parts..Juki ( various models ) ..but you'll pay more than for a Singer..other older Singers can do zig-zag, but they are older harder to get parts for , frequently sought after by embroiderers that work freehand , and so more expensive, later models are more expensive..Lot of 20U33s were made..used to be the ideal artisans "retouchers" machine, lot of them were used in small alterations and sewing businesses.

topic drift.. I wondered about that too Wiz..but , not knowing if Dell did remote support ( apparently they do ) said nothing, so as not to alarm someone ITphobic..however. http://en.community.dell.com/support-forums/customercare/f/4674/t/19633589 which might be cause for concern.. Then again, a search for "IE 10 win7 home cannot play m3u8" brings up many cases of updates to IE 10 and 11 that give problems with that file type ( and others )..might be a very good time to download FF for win 7 and VLC and set FF to not auto-update ( and thus avoid the FF57 upcoming debacle ) until Mozilla maybe get a clue.

New, the Adlers are quite a lot of money nowadays, so, if he doesn't want much ( and if it is in good condition ) you might be able to buy it, resell it and make some money there.

Bear in mind, the version of FF 57 is set to not be compatible, some FF versions from FF 53 or FF 54 onwards already won't run some ( it will be much closer to the way chrome from Google works, will use the same "engine" as chrome ) with very very many add ons and extensions ( over 2000 of them ) rendered "not compatible" and so they won't work..VDH ( and many other add ons and extensions ) may well not work if you update FF..you might want to look into palemoon, ( works with only some ) or one of the FF "forks" being developed due to Mozilla's insistence on this "update". There are "workarounds" that can make some ( but not all ) "add ons" and "extensions" work again.. Check your FF versions ( and add on compatibility ) before updating FF on any platform. It is worth reading these pages. https://blog.mozilla.org/addons/2017/02/16/the-road-to-firefox-57-compatibility-milestones/ and this page to get an idea of what may have problems and how to maybe mitigate them. https://www.ghacks.net/2017/07/07/firefox-add-ons-webextensions-state-july-2017/ @dikman..btw .."waterslide" decals can be done the way the woman is doing it, wet the surface that you are applying the decal to..rub and peel off the decal backing, then burnish with soft cloth..the decal has to have been made with a clear coat as the first layer placed on the paper..You can make your own decals, many modellers do / did.

Gorgeous! Steampunk bicycle.

To see the movie on any platform/operating system..use VLC player ( VLC player works on windows, Mac, linux etc, and smartphones and tablets ) Open VLC player, next copy all of this next line http://vod.nls.uk/hls-vod/ssa/9152/91523128.15.m3u8 Then in VLC player click "media"..select "open from clipboard"..then choose "play" The film will begin playing.. If you want to save it to your machine / phone / whatever..as soon as the player window opens and the film starts, click the red record button towards the bottom left of the player, , it will open a dialogue box which asks you to select somewhere to save it to, or it may save it by "default" to a folder( to choose the folder, go to "tools" then "preferences" then "input and codecs settings" then "files", click on "browse" and choose where you want VLC to save files to..select the place and click OK*. Et Voila! as we say here in France :) HTH *Works for any movie, any site ( that has not properly secured their files from being accessed directly ), you get the "path" to copy into your clipboard by looking at the "source code" of the page the movie is in. Accessing a file this way is not illegal, is not "hacking". Complete sewing machine movie is quite big, ( I can't remember exactly how big, and I have it stored on an HD which isn't on this machine..just checked , it is 849.2MB ) so make sure that you have enough space if you want to store it, you can shrink it losslessly later with "handbrake" ( video transcoding software for windows and linux ) or similar on mac . You can also change the file name to "Birth of a Sewing Machine" when the recording is finished via "rename" without needing handbrake..If you do transcode later, you can get the file down to 300 to 400Mb without any quality loss, set handbrake to "very slow" and "20" at "fixed frame rate". Wait 'til the movie has actually stopped before clicking the red button again to stop recording, on some "streams" the progress bar will reach the end long before the movie has actually ended, clicking the red button before the movie has actually stopped will result in the movie being "cut short". ps..The original decals they show are what are called "waterslide decals"..like plastic model kits came with when I was much, much, much younger. The metal parts are "leaf" ( whether gold leaf or silver leaf cannot be distinguished from the movie, but from the way the "scraps " fly in the making the decals section towards then end of the movie, I think gold leaf ), gold leaf can be used in "waterslide" decals, as long as either "size" is applied to the surface of the support, or the support has some "slight stick", as a recently painted machine would have even after a couple of days, burnishing the decal with a cloth ( which the woman does when applying the decal earlier ) would work to make it hold.

If I lived closer to it I'd buy it in a heartbeat, beautiful ( freehand ) embroidery machine, and ( if it runs ) worth way more than they are asking.

primosand, your photos look like a "spot the item amongst these photos that a cat cannot fit itself inside of" :) jessH..Primosand's "pulley system" ( they are called a "speed reducer" ) looks like a "bought one"..but you can make your own system that will do the same, if you copy and paste this into Google "site :leatherworker.net speed reducer" exactly like it is written, spaces and all , but take off the quote marks at each end, you'll get results of all the pages here where they have been discussed and a lot of pictures of both bought and home-made ones . Even changing the pulley on your Singer clutch motor ( which is probably around an 80mm diameter one ) for a 45mm or a 50mm one will help slow it down to begin with..If your motor is the 1750 type ( it will be written on it ) then it may have a tapered shaft with a woodruff key, if so the pulleys sold by college sewing for tapered bore will fit it. https://www.college-sewing.co.uk/store/SewingMachineMotorPulleys A standard tapered bore 40 mm pulley on that page may fit, but the efka ones ( although more expensive, and designed for the efka system ) will also fit..I have an efka 45mm tapered pulley on the 1750 Singer clutch motor that I have on my Singer 20U. That and an extension to the motor lever make it manageable, I don't use it for leather ( my Singer 211 has a servo motor and speed reducer that I made with a ratio 5:1 ) but even the change to a smaller pulley will help you control your machine better, and only cost you a tenner at most. Pulley is easy to change with the motor in place..you'll need a new belt ( preferably one with teeth as they go around the tight radius of the smaller motor pulley better ) after the change, as the old one will be too big.

Never bought from them, but their site is pretty clear you have to phone or fax or email them ( details are on their site on the page that you linked to ) to get them to issue a password to be able to get into the part of their site which has the inventory and prices, standard procedure from wholesalers. They don't want their prices out there in public. Usually means that there will be a minimum order quantity and that they will likely only accept bank transfers with a 100% of the price paid in advance and only from registered business with proof of business registration, business TAX ID etc. Prices are likely to be FOB also, with shipping via accredited customs agents only ( no "post" ) such as DHL, FEDEX, UPS etc.

That is a wood carvers mallet, not designed for leather tools,not designed for striking the tops of the metal shafts of leather stamping tools..it is a softer material than is used in leather mauls, it has some degree of "bounce" in the material and is designed for striking the wooden handles of wood carving chisels and gouges..It won't give you a precise enough strike for tooling leather. It weighs nearly 2lb..It is balanced for hitting tools which are cutting into wood ( which is pretty hard ) and removing pieces of wood , not for the tap tap tap that is used for leather tools, which are being used for marking ( not cutting or removing ) leather, which is pretty soft. re "shape"..a round "maul" shape is easy to get used to, and is more precise than a flat faced mallet..but what you have linked to is the right shape, but is the wrong material and thus the wrong tool.

gotta do something for amusement if you can't get cable in the deepest darkest parts of the bayou. https://www.bedetheque.com/BD-Louis-Ferdinand-Quincampoix-Une-aventure-de-Tome-1-Dedans-le-bayou-10970.html Don't know if those comic books exist in English versions...anyway, they're best read in the appropriate accent surely "lickin them" would be considered toadally radical!

Domestic old iron singer sewing machine, not heavy duty, "industrial strength "means nothing, it is either a domestic machine ' which this one is ) or an industrial ( which this one is most definitely not ) being sold by a scammer..it would just about sew 1 or 2 oz garment leather and the leather would be slipping all over the place while it was doing it..when ever you see a pile of coins next to the needle.. run.the "powerful motor" will be a 80 or 90 watt "pot" motor stuck on the back of the machine, about as big as a tea cup..Industrials have the motor ( usually clutch type unless it has been replaced by a servo motor ) under the table, the clutch motor alone weighs more than this guys domestic singer 15 series machine. ps..Most of us here have a domestic singer 15 series ( I have a 15 88 with a treadle ) around somewhere along with our industrial machines..they are less than half the size and less than 20% of the power of even our medium strength industrial machines. this thread will explain what machine you need to sew leather.

If you are buying for tooling and stamping designs..then around 400 to 500 gms will be good..If you are wanting to be able to stamp makers marks, then heavier is better. Btw what you call "turner machine" is a "lathe".

Added..I just noticed that I made a typo further up..my computer system on this machine ( it is in French ) flags all English words as typos, so everything I type is a mass of red underlining :(. Deldrin is incorrect..that should read Delrin ( only one D ) Since reading plinkercases's post I re-researched nylon bar , pallet truck wheels and Delrin bar here, and also HDPE ( which here is PEHD ), and found better , cheaper suppliers..Just ordered various items to play with and discovered that at least one bottled water company whose mineral water we buy uses HDPE in their bottle caps, so, going to melt some down and see. thanks chain ..when I go to that link it says postage $2.50 at flat rate from Hong Kong, which means "takes upto 6 weeks to get here"..and that is if it ever gets here, but I appreciate the thought Meanwhile I did find on Amazon a company that sells them for just under €11.00 with free shipping to me ( maybe the same people ) , they don't say where they are seller is called "sourcingmap" , sounds like a "China sourcer" , I'll order and see. Mattsbagger, thanks I've never used etsy for anything, only visited it maybe 10 times if that, I've no idea of their shipping rates to the EU from the USA, but the mauls that you link to are from Russia, the page says taxes included, but in the details the seller says taxes are not included, and the shipping to France would be €16.00 for the lightest maul ( it shows €38.00 to me for the maul without shipping )..But the guy says that he ships in two ways ( and does not specify which one costs €16.00 ) one way is standard post ( which will have no tracking ) and the other is EMS ( which normally has tracking )..EMS normally costs at least double if not triple the standard post rate..EMS to here from Japan ( leathercrafttools.com ) takes around 4 to 7 days, never more than 10 days..He says EMS 10 to 15 days. total cost would be with tax at 20% €64.80 and which shipping method used ( tracked or untracked ) at €16.00 is unclear. They look great, and there is a lot of detail about the wood used, but I'd be more interested in what the head is made from, he says "polyamide 6"..which actually means nylon..not Delrin..Nylon is what the pallet truck wheels are made from..Delrin ( much better ) is about €20.00 inc VAT + another €15.00 shipping from the UK to me, enough to make 5 "heads" from. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nylon_6 Nylon 6 in 60mm diameter I can get for around €20.00 per metre here POM ( which is what Delrin is ) in 60mm diameter is at €8.00 per 50mm length here..I suspect that they buy it from the UK.

D2G..The one you linked to would be fine for you if you didn't want to make your own..the price is good, the weight is good, and the quality will be good..Shipping cost ? ( it says "free shipping" but that may be only within the USA ) to Spain , I have no idea, the page says does not ship to France, ( but maybe they ship to Spain, in which case expect to pay shipping on top of the $80.00 price that you see, you'll have to ask them what shipping would cost ) , bear in mind that you may also have to pay VAT* ( here it is 20% ) on the total price of the item+ the shipping. So if shipping was say $30.00 you'd pay ( $80.00+$30.00 ) x120% = $144.00 plus whatever your bank or paypal charge you for converting the € to $ ( usually only around a €1 or €2 "conversion charge" ) ..This kind of "total price" when ordering from the USA to EU is why I thought about making my own, and as plinkercases says, it is more satisfying to make your own tools when you can, if I could find the small ball bearing sets** at a reasonable price here, I'd make my own swivel knives. * If you are VAT registered of course you'll be able to claim it back. **Model shops do sell them, the nearest model shops that sell them to me are on the other side of France near the German border, and the shipping fro them to send me a couple of sets is more than the cost of the bearing sets themselves. :( Nice maul there plinkercases, prettier than mine.. Our milk doesn't come in HDPE, and all the useful poly's and plastics are 3 times the UK or the German price. "Pallet Truck Nylon Wheel" here, only in sets of 2, cheapest anywhere is €56.00 per set + shipping.

Medium. You sure that the machine is a "walking foot" ? that designation ( singer 451k125 ) is normally a needle feed with lower feed dogs.."needle feed with drop feed" ..a similar looking singer machine to that model does zig zag ( the stitch controller on those is in the "face" of the machine )..They are "cute" looking machines, kind of thing that has "Flash Gordon" aesthetics :)

The "heads" ( the part which strikes the stamp tool ) of "cheap mauls" is made from nylon, and the shafts are made from steel with either a wooden or a plastic handle. The heads of the "expensive" mauls are made from "Deldrin" ( which is a much harder wearing polycarbonate than nylon ), and even the basic "bar stock" of Deldrin costs 3 or 4 times the equivalent "bar stock" size or diameter in nylon..and the shafts of the more expensive mauls are made from stainless steel ( inox) and the handles are frequently made from compressed leather ( which is a little gentler* on the hands from a transmission of repeated impacts as the tool is struck many many time per hour, point of view ) and the heads of the "expensive mauls" are "angled" ( the diameter reduces by around 10% to 15 % as it gets nearer the handle )so you don't have to lift your elbow so high ( higher you lift, the worse' for your back and shoulders after even just a few minutes ) to get a "good strike" on the stamps. * "gentler" can be achieved by wearing a soft leather glove on your "handle hand" or wrapping the cheap handle securely in soft leather. You can also alter the head "angle" of a cheaper maul yourself by careful sanding, or take it apart and reduce the diameter gradually towards the "handle end" and then reassemble it .. You can make a pretty good maul by using a 23 cm piece of threaded 10mm steel ( or inox ) bar , getting 3 nylon or Deldrin caster wheels and drilling them out to fit very snugly against each other on the bar, sanding them to the correct profile once they are all tight agajnst each other, buying a wooden handle for a file or a chisel and drilling it out to accept your 10 mm bar and then assembling it all with a few nuts ate each end to lock it all up hard and tight, I've made a few this way as the cost for a maul from anywhere to France ( plus the taxes ) would cost me more in shipping ( because even a 400 - 500 gm mauls are heavy and expensive to send via post or DHL etc ) than the cost of the maul bought from anywhere ( be it a Tandy or a Bear or Barry )..access to a lathe and or Deldrin bar stock at 50mm diameter makes it much easier to make one.. I might take one of my 3 nylon caster wheels ones apart sometime and make photo "step by step" to show how to get a serviceable maul for those on a budget or who don't want to pay more for the shipping than they do for the maul.Takes about €25.00 of ( parts , and you have a lot of threaded bar left over ), and around 30 minutes to an hour, to make a maul that is a lot better than the Tandy ones.

The ones with colour inside "full colour" may have a tendency to say "plastic" or "vinyl" when people see them, leather is perceived as a luxury material, plastic ( apart from certain specific sorts ) is not "luxury" in most people's minds.. "Natural" inside, will , I think , sell better, and appeal to that "luxury" perception. There is also a certain attraction to the "wildness" of " the touch of the untreated flesh side of leather" that appeals to many people. The people who are into vinyl and plastics or rubber are appealed to by an associated , but different attraction, so make both types, but you'll probably sell more of the "natural" interior ones.

Sunshine will polymerise ( changes the chemical composition ) the oil, that will make even darker, and semi-fix it into the leather, making it much harder to get it out. Putting oil in the sun was the way to make "sun dried" oil ( from linseed or olive oil ) or "stand oil" ( linseed oil treated for use by artists ) or was also used as a method to "thicken oil". Resolene is not olive oil!

Pouncing ( note the letter U in there ) "poncing" is something different ( it is a slang/argot word, and is a "bad word" for something else ) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pounce_(art) "pouncing" is how the designs ( or cartoons* ) for frescoes ( like the Sistine chapel for example ) were transferred to walls and ceilings..very appropriate word for falconry, hawks, eagles falcons owls etc ( in fact all "birds of prey" ) are said to pounce on their prey..sometimes in older English they are said to "stoop" onto their prey.. *the rough sketches that were made for frescoes etc is where the word cartoons comes from. "pounce" is also used to describe the actions that cats and dogs, and even spiders ( and in general all carnivores ) do , when they jump on their prey to attack it. Nice work D2G ps ..I have a "pouncing wheel" somewhere, looks a lot like what leatherworkers call a "pricking wheel" used to run along the lines ( piercing them ) of the overlay drawing ( cartoon ) when it is fastened to the surface ( wall, whatever ) that you want to transfer the design to.

"kitty stuff" ( presuming you mean fresh kitty litter ) , if it is the fuller's earth type doesn't smell at all..So..no smell to transfer..to anything.. Someone must have been selling you recycled "used kitty litter" ;-)

Try these people..if they don't have them, they may be able to make them. http://www.keelersales.com I think they also run an ebay store under the name of "keesew".

lower your tensions,( top and bottom ) if merely sewing garment leather thickness did this, garments would look like this, they don't because they are not stitched at the same tension as thicker veg tans.

If you can photograph it and upload it, I can translate it to English and re-upload.

"Fuller's earth".. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fuller's_earth Frequently also found as the powder in those smear on or paint on "face masks" that beauticians use ( the ones where the girls also put a slice of cucumber on each eye )..that powder usually comes in 3 colours ( some have additives, perfumes etc ) you want the ones without the perfumes and additives*, and if you can get it you want the white powder, ( not the green or the red ), put it on the stained area, cover it, leave it for a few days ( or maybe longer ) it will draw out the oil..take of the powder with a vacuum cleaner ( you could brush it off, but it might get onto your black areas around the leaves and draw out some of the dye there** ), re apply and re do as necessary, you might not get it all out, you will get some out, maybe a lot..Shouldn't be too hard to find, it is cheap, kaolin powder will work too and maybe easier to find, but will be more expensive..Kitty litter ( the granular "clay" type, usually pale grey in colour ), will work if you grind it down to a powder ( like with pastry roller or similar ), get the kitty litter with no perfume or additives...You might also find it sold for mechanics to absorb oil spills, ( it will look like kitty litter ) again get the one with the least number of additives.. HTH * The less "stuff" added to it, the less chance of one of the additives reacting with your leather, or the oil or both.Fuller's earth itself won't harm the leather, it was used for centuries in tanneries ( maybe still is in some under another name )as well as for treating ( removing some of the oil from ) wool..Museums and restorers use it for oil removal too, because it doesn't damage the things it is used on..to all intents and purposes it is chemically inert. **Second thought ( as the stain is already also on some parts that have been dyed black ) you may as well brush it off, rather than use a vacuum cleaner, any black dye that it might "draw out" can be redone with a fine brush.