mikesc

The Blue colour ( which is where "wet blue" as a leather term ) comes from the Chromium salts used in the Chrome tanning process..The processes has multiple stages and one of the earliest ones turns the leather a light blue colour , the leather is then passed through other processes before it gets its eventual colour. You can buy on leather trading markets ( but only in large quantities, usually thousands of skins/hides ) , leather at the "wet blue" stage. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leather Nothing to do with veg tan leather..different process. "whet blu" ( note the spelling ), is a brand..I have catalogue of their stuff around somewhere. OP..( as per billybopp 's post ) you have there thick chrome tan ( chrome tan isn't always thin ) leather which has been given a different topside colour and also a matching flesh side colour.

Surely that would be ..piping +2x material thickness..as the material will be wrapped around the piping core.

Added separately as multiple edits here play havoc with the quote boxen. I agree with you concerning ebay versus Amazon, ebay is in 99% of peoples minds the "online tat bazaar" where customers go to find the lowest price they can, they are not searching for quality goods, they are searching for "bargains" in both the auctions and the "buy it now", ebay is the "poundland" of the internet, and has a Kafkaesque system. Amazon is more straightforward, and tends to attract those with slightly more purchasing power, and who are not shopping based wholly upon price. I notice that you ( Mark842 ) are in the USA...Lumpendoodle2 and I are both in the EU ( well she is for now at least ) in Scotland and France respectively, Amazon and ebay do not run the same TOS ( with regard to both sellers and buyers ) respectively here in the EU ( and in other countries ) as they do in the USA. They both ( as do any companies or individual businesses operating in the EU member countries ) have to operate in accordance with EU and local national laws that govern sale of goods, guarantees, contract laws, consumer protection etc, they cannot legally, ( nor can any business entity operating here ) include in any contract with any seller, any clause that requires the seller to break the laws, especially the laws concerning consumer protection , such as those which require all goods to be shipped with an invoice that has full contact details of the business ( seller ) and / or the manufacturer.

That is precisely the sort of thing I was hinting at..Amazon cannot "come after" sellers who include invoices with their business details in the customers order, especially as in most jurisdictions the seller is legally obliged to supply an invoice ( with their address and contact details , business number, phone number and website etc ) with the goods when they send them out. In France, and all of the EU as far as I know, it is illegal not to send those detailed invoices with any goods despatched by the seller, whether they are selling from Amazon or directly from their own website or B & M. All items that I have purchased via Amazon over the years have always included invoices giving full details of the sellers, insisting that sellers here do not follow French national and EU law would result in Amazon being prosecuted by the consumer protection agencies. Amazon obviously cannot "pull end runs" around someone who makes their own stuff, but what they can, and have done, is, in some cases , when they spot an item selling very well, send details of it to an OEM manufacturer to be made for them, thus competing with the original item. Yes, one can be successful with Amazon, especially as G apply ( for the moment ) the Amazon and pinterest "boost". What can work equally well ( if not better ) is to run one's own pinterest pages with watermarked images of ones items, that give the name of ones own website. Also identifying where ones potential customers hang out on the web ( for example leatherworkers hang out here :) and buying CPM banner ad space in those venues..The can be served from ones own site, ( easy to track the stats and ROI ) or hosted on the displaying site ( harder to track the stats and ROI, but possible with co-operative site owners ) ..specialist sites are not overun with "click bots" in the same way that google SERPs or facebook are, ads on either G SERPs ( adwords ) or their "display network" <= adsense are wide open to "click bots", and will burn through your ad budget very fast, same applies to ads on facebook, running your own pages on facebook can get you paying customers, but if you want "reach" on facebook you have to spend either a great deal of time on it, or pay for reach via ads there, which again are vulnerable to "click bots"..click fraud costs advertisers ( not the ad agencies , but the advertisers ) tens of billions per year, cutting out the middle men and approaching site owners ( who have the sort of visitor traffic that you can sell to ) to buy banner ad space on their sites is worth doing, as long as you are paying for ads viewed and not pages viewed ( pages can be viewed by browsers running ad blockers ), a few tens of dollars can get you a lot of pre-qualified interested eyeballs.

Sent you a pm..look at the top right of the page next to your name.. :)

The UPC s that you can buy on ebay ( and elsewhere ) for a couple of dollars for a few hundred are those that were issued to others ( and not yet used ) and are surplus to them so they sell them, some people/businesses pay for a block ( smallest block is about 200,000 ) and then sell them off in smaller lots ( like wholesale to retail )..you can think of these lots as "generic", they will not have been issued specifically to you or your company. If you are selling an item in red and blue and yellow etc, you need one code per colour and the same for each size of item..But one code covers a size 38 in red of any specific widget, you don't need a separate code for every size 38 red widget type #123456 that you sell. If you buy a block ( smallest block that you can buy is 200,000 codes, and depending on which issuing authority you purchase from you may have to buy a larger number in each block, AFAICR )..Buying a block means that anyone reading the code can see that it was issued to you or your company, can help fight fake goods a little, depends if you need that kind of protection, last time I bought blocks ( a couple of years or so ago now ) I think I paid around €250.00 ( inc VAT ) per 200,000..prices have probably risen since then. More about them, EAN/UPC here https://www.gs1.org/barcodes/ean-upc Bear in mind with Amazon that depending on how successful what you sell is, upon seeing your success ( they control the shopping cart ) Amazon frequently then either contact your suppliers ( if you are selling 3rd party goods and appear to be doing volume and making loads of money ) and make them an offer to buy the same direct, thus cutting you out of the loop..Tends to happen more with the stuff that , sellers "warehouse" with Amazon, and is then sent from Amazon directly to the end customer. Much less of a problem with "bespoke" small production runs from "craft workers", but, Amazon are not above making enquiries in Asia with short run manufacturers about making things directly for them that they see sellers doing very well with.I know some leather OEM goods manufacturers in Asia who also work for Amazon, they were contacted with "how much to make "this" item in runs of 500 ?" type approaches..Not all stuff that is sold as coming direct from Amazon bears an Amazon label, and you'd be hard pressed to compete with a company that can source "widgets" in Asia and that also knows how many "widgets" you sell per day, and exactly when you sell them and what the buyers have looked at before hand and where their mouse hovered and for how long on each page.. Advice would be to only put a few items onto Amazon ( or any platform ) just enough to get some lookers ( with maybe a few orders) , but use it to drive "pre-qualified" ( interested in what you are selling ) visitors to your site(s). The "driving" must be done with subtlety , so as not to fall foul of Amazon's TOS. Where Amazon is ( ATM ) particularly useful, is that along with pinterest, Google has been in love with them both for a few years now ( although in the light of Google's tie-up with Walmart in the USA, and Bing's tie-up with Amazon this may change )..Google "boost" Amazon and pinterest in their results ( they say they don't, but "if it walks like a duck..." etc ), an attractive listing on Amazon, or an attractive page on pinterest gets you high placings in Google SERPs..and you don't have to be paying into their adwords scam ( what else does one call a system where 80% of all clicks are by bots ) to be visible on page one.

? same reference 28/3 but two different thicknesses in mm ? What is #183 thread ? I'll happily give Sajou a call for you and ask for detail about their threads, but the part you wrote that I quoted doesn't make sense ( typo? ) and I don't know ( and a search reveals nothing ) what #183 thread is ..

ismacs also has it listed on another page http://ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/singer-sewing-machines-for-manufacturing-purposes.html as a "harness stitcher"..so..maybe it can do two layers of 12mm ( would be two layers of 1/2"" each, total 1" ) ..sounds like harness thickness. ps..just found a link to a PDF parts list for some of the 42 series..( the 42-7 isn't in there..but the 42-5 and the 42-8 are, and they are pretty beefy looking cylinder arm machines, with walking feet and what look to be thick capabilities ) .. http://parts.singerco.com/IPpartCharts/42-2_3_4_5_8.pdf pps..G'waaan..go see it and buy it..you know you want to..and then post pics and tell us about it ;-)

It is actually quite easy, if you do not put your two feet on the pedal "side by side" ( which is what most people think that you should do ), what works far better is to put one foot with it's toe area resting on the part of the treadle nearest to you, and the other foot with it's toe are resting towards the back of the treadle ( not directly in front of each other as if you were walking on a tightrope, but around 15cm / 6 inches apart laterally , but with one foot further forward on the treadle than the other ) ..Then you press on the treadle with your feet alternately, as if you were rocking it around it's pivotal axis..This is much easier, and gives better control than if you put your feet next to each other..It is also less tiring. When you start treadling you need to just pull the machine's pulley that is driven by the belt slightly to wards you so that the machine sets off turning in the correct direction ..the pulley turns towards you*..even if you have machine that can do reverse..the "reverse" direction is taken care of by the movement of the feed dogs changing..**A machine won't make stitches if the pulley is turning away from you. *If you were looking at the driven pulley "end on" ( from the right hand side of the machine ) it must turn anti-clockwise..or "widdershins" ( Scots word derived from old "High German" ) ..if it turns "clockwise", your stitches, and possibly your machine will be banjaxed ( Irish word, meaning broken, destroyed, knackered etc ) ..in French déglingue ( day-glan-gay ).. **There are some rare exceptions to this, not machines that you are likely to come across

Something else to think about..given that the items that you want to produce are small size..you can look at older machines ( both cylinder arm and flat bed ) that do not have reverse ( easy to turn around small items, rather than putting the machine into reverse to lock off stitches as most of us do with larger items )..older machines without reverse are cheaper, sometimes by a lot .

The juki you posted the photo of is one sort of walking foot ( similar to my 490-4 )..but better for what you want to do is the system here at this link https://floridasewingmachines.com/walking-foot/singer-211g165-walking-foot-1-needle-2-thread-lockstitch.html click on the small detail pictures..in particular the third picture from the left..that is the more common arrangement for walking foot machines that sew leather without marking it.. That machine won't sew holsters..but will sew 9 to 10 mm of veg tan..cylinder arm machines are even more versatile with that 3 bar arrangement.

You can use some industrial machines ( that were designed to have, and originally supplied with a motor) with a treadle table froma domestic machine..it means altering the table a little ( and reinforcing it ) ..but can be done..just in case you find a cheap industrial machine with a non working motor and can get a domestic treadle table with a non working machine "head"..you can put them together to make a working machine. Yes..But..probably better to explain why ;-) So.. The usual type of feed on domestic machines ( and on industrial machines that are designed to sew textiles ) is "Feed from the bottom"..or "bottom feed" or "drop feed" or "simple feed"..( needle bar and foot bar ..two bars )<= You might see them described using any of those phrases..or the equivalents in your local language..What it means is that the thing you are sewing is moved towards the back of the machine ( away from the operator ) and towards the needle by a plate ( which has teeth ) which rises from under the bed of the machine and and pulls the textile away from you towards the needle...This is OK for textiles..as long as the "sandwiches of the layers" are not too thick in total..or are not slippery. On slippery materials..or when dealing with "sandwiches" of multiple layers of material..the upper and lower layers may not move in "co-ordination"..and so you'll get "dropped stitches" and a crappy finish..So..no good for leather. Next type of feed is "Upper and lower feed"( needle bar and afoot bar ..two bars )..I have an industrial machine which does this ..Juki DLU 490 4 .. It can stitch leather, but the upper and lower layers of the "sandwich" can still slip in relation to each other..and..most importantly..it has teeth on the bottom feed dogs and on the top ones..so it can mark veg tan leather badly on both the top and the bottom..but it is OK for plastics and chrome tan..and for veg tan where any marks on the surface are not important. Then there is "needle feed"..this is where the needle pierces the textile ( or leather ) "sandwich" and ( at the same time as the lower feed dogs move the "sandwich" backwards..so does the needle ) ..very good for sewing layers of anything which would try to slide over each other as they are held in unison by the needle spearing through all the layers whilst the stitch is made..But..on leather (especially veg tan )..not so good..because the leather is more dense than textile and so has tendency to "stick" to the needle as it rises and so "interrupts" the formation of the stitches..( this type only has a needle bar and a foot bar..two bars )..But..if you have a roller where the top "foot" would normally be .. ( the top machine in your set of photos has a roller )..then the leather is held down by the roller as it is being stitched..and the roller usually doesn't leave a strong mark on the leather surface..( some roller machines do not have needle feed, some do .."with needle feed" is better )..Shoe makers use these "roller" machines a lot because they allow you to make curved lines of stitches very easily.. Then there is "compound feed"..This is where the bottom feed dogs raise and grip the leather from below, the needle pierces the "sandwich", the two top feet"alternate" in pressing the leather downwards ..this means that the sandwich has no chance to slip out of alignment at all..and the alternating feet used for leather work are usually smooth on their bases so that they do not mark the leather..This is ideal.. Now.."clearance"..How much you can lift the foot is only an approximate guide..Because when you lift the foot , at the very highest point of the lift, there is usually a mechanism that releases the thread tension..so..if you can lift 12mm, in reality you'll only have tension ( and be able to sew ) until around 10mm..example..I have a singer 211U166A..it has foot lift via a hand lever of about 12mm..it also has foot lift via a knee lifter of around 14mm to 16mm, but in reality the internal mechanism releases the thread tension at around 10mm..I can get 12mm under the foot, and if it can squash the layers don to 10 it will stitch fine..but if the layers are too dense to squash ..it will stitch badly, missing loads of stitches..it is only supposed to be able to stitch 9mm..so I'm happy at 10mm..even though I can get 14mm under the foot. HTH :) There are other combinations and varieties of "feed"..but these are the only ones that you need to be concerned with re "leather machines"..for now..

The first machine ( pedestal type ..it has bottom feed and a roller ) is the sort usually used for shoes or bags ( you could make a table for it )..it might be able to sew the thickness that you would want ( ?..hard to tell because the photo is dark with no detail..what does the advert say , what machine is it ..manufacturer, model ..number ..? the last one ( lowest on your set ) is a domestic machine..not good for what you want. the other two.. the second one is bottom feed only the third one ( adler ) might be bottom feed with "walking foot )..but I don't think so, ..hard to tell ..photo is too dark and the angle is bad to see the needle area. the fourth one ( pfaff 31 )is a domestic machine..no good for what you want.. better picture of a pfaff 31on a forum elsewhere..see https://www.quiltingboard.com/vintage-antique-machine-enthusiasts-f22/pfaff-treadle-31-a-t179170.html copy and paste that into your address bar to see. the fifth one is a domestic machine..no good for what you want.. Ideally you want what is called "compound feed"..means that feed is with "dogs" at the bottom..and also pulling "feed" with the needle..and feed "help" with two walking feet..so when you look at the needle area..you should see three vertical bars..one to hold the needle..the other two are for the "walking feet"..

If it comes with a video on how to thread it ( like that you should pass the thread around the little post that is actually there only to stop the tension discs spinning )...ignore the video.. Atlas..leading people astray with incorrect videos since ..when ever they made their first video.

Nice White.. Most things ..including singer 15/88 make sailrites look "pretty pathetic".. second thought..having actually touched one recently..strike the "pretty"..( they are not ) ..pathetic..they are..

Molds ( "clones" ) can be made from such things..and subsequently, castings..

Worse is "tractors" :((

That link won't work Bob..that is the link to the file on your computer ( in a folder named chronos ) I presume ?..You'll have to upload it to here ( or somewhere ) to get a link that begins with http or https.

re What domestic or "not designed for leather machines can do" , question for you wiz. I've been offered a Singer 31:32 ( the one with reverse via small button next to the stitch length controller )..it is a treadle.VGC ( according to seller ) and I can get it for under $100.00 USD..but it is around a 3 hour round trip drive from me..and I'm busy, ..But ..it is calling to me ..:) So, to know if it is worth adding to the machines I already have , .What can it sew max thickness in chrome tan and in veg tan ? can it be fitted with a roller foot ? what size threads can it run max, top and bottom ? Opinion(s) welcome..sorry to "semi-highjack" the thread with questions about what is originally an industrial ( old ) tailoring machine..move this to a separate thread if you think it should be.

I suspect that if you could get production going of adapters for short shank feet to long shank machines, you could be onto a nice lucrative sideline there Uwe. :) Here is wishing you every success with the "experiment" :)

I do hope that a replacement for screw exists with an Allen or Torx type head ..what kind of thread is it ?

I have owned many Land Rovers, ( before they began making the ugly ones that rappers drive ) but, there is much truth in the saying that.. "If you want to go into the desert, get a Land Rover, if you want to get back out again, use a Toyota."

to add to dikman's post.. If possible, get a machine with reverse..turning work around in order to be able to stitch in the other direction ( or to "lock off" a seam end or beginning ) can become a "pain in the donkey" real fast.

Looks like maybe a clone of a Juki ( has "the Juki look" ) textile machine..which one ? ..They made so many ..

Umm..I don't think that collar is designed to be worn by dogs..to me it looks far more like a BDSM model ( the D ring in front sort of gives it away ) ..cute though ;-)