mikesc

YinTX Get an airbrush..something like a paasche VLS won't ruin you..ideal for applying dyes, colours and finishes , will allow you to do "even" all over, or sunburst and shading and depth effects..The VLS is a "double action" with a bottle that screws on ( avoids spills ) under the airbrush to hold whatever liquid you are spraying.Run it at between 1.5 and 4 psi..get a spray painters mask too most of what you will be spraying through it is very bad for your lungs.

Most of the tanneries in Mexico seem to be around a place called Leon..Guanajuato

I'd be interested to see how you are threading the top thread ( thread path ) , you may be missing a step, or winding the thread around somewhere that you shouldn't be ..

Makes you wonder what the actual tolerances are in that case .. Btw..those arbor presses are unavailable in France ( at anything like a reasonable price ) unless imported from the UK or Germany, despite them being made in China..The French companies that sell them at "retail" do so at 3 to 4 times the price of one from the UK or Germany, even when the international ( within the EU ) shipping of a 15Kg hunk of cast iron is included in the price.The price of a rivet setting press is just as ridiculous, and a clicker die press..ouch. I based my "opinion" on "the calculations", however, I much prefer, ( and defer to ) northmount's real life experience with one, based upon which, I think I'll order two from Germany :)

I think that if you try and "click" or emboss pieces at the sizes that you suggest ( IMO 10 cm or 20 cms on a side is "not small" ) by extending the handle, you are liable to strip the teeth on the bar or the cog which drives it ( BTW..it isn't a "rachet press"..a "rachet mechanism" "locks" the "bar" after each tooth "advance"..axle stands are an example )..the press "rating" is 25kN at the downward pointing face of the bar, ( spread over the area of the bar "face" , probably around 25mm x25mm ? ) the metal of the bar ( and thus it's teeth ) and the drive cog are calculated to "not strip" at that force at that face..If you add an extension to the handle, you'll be increasing the applied force all through that "drive", but..if you are applying that force to an item that is 100mm x100mm..you have increased the area by a factor of 16..so you'll have to apply 16 times the force to the drive cog ( and the bar teeth ) via the handle to get the same pressure per 25mm x 25mm area on the item in the press.. The actual calculation is more complex than that..but the end result is likely to be that same.. IMO..you'll strip the cog and or the teeth..or break the pivot where the handle goes through the cog bar, pretty quickly. The square section bar ( the arbor ) is usually only fairly soft mild steel ( try filing at the top of it ) , it will not hold upto more force than it is rated for for very many operations.

This part doesn't make sense, if the "mechanism part that is pressed down via the plunger" "goes down accordingly".. ( how does "it" ("mechanism part that is pressed down via the plunger" ) also not move, as in ) "but it won't budge".? What part.."won't budge" ? Photos of what you are referring to, with, if you can add them ..labels of the part "which goes down accordingly" and the part which " won't budge" so as to be able to distinguish the one from the other, would be enormously helpful. Highly unlikely that you'll need to take apart shafts and or gears to get the full stitch size range again..sounds like you may now have the stitch length adjustment mechanism facing the wrong section of the part it is designed to act upon.

aside.... Matt..re "access"..unless you / one allow scripts from google.com ( which you obviously do even in a private browsing session, ) whereas I like many others of us who also work in IT, block all scripts ( including google* , facebook, twitter etc ) to start with and only allow those which won't follow / track us all over the web..your images in "google drive" cannot be seen. *google search works..even with google.com blocked and not "signed in".. google drive..does not. "google analytics" ( used to be urchin )is a tracking script used by over 90% of all websites ( none of mine though ) which allows google to follow anyone everywhere, all the time..most websites will still work if you block it.."no script"** is your friend **"no script" is a "privacy / anti tracking" add on..which also protects your devices from being attacked by malicious scripts on websites ( lot of webmasters don't know that their websites are hacked and are distributing viruses and trojans ), having begun programming in the early 1970s , I recommend "no script" to everyone..keeps you safe, allows you to control the people tracking what sites / pages you visit. Having to fire up a private window to avoid subsequent tracking by any entity , in order to see images ?..I'll wait for you to post them here..like I said above..once posted here, everyone who visits here will be able to see them, even when they are long gone from your google drive account, or when google maybe scraps "drive", or makes it "pay to store" like the image sites where so many here in the past posted their images and now results in so many threads here with no images other than the "upgrade your image hosting account" ( pay to have your pictures available to be linked from other websites ) ones..

Just upload it here ( if it is too big contact and admin like wiz or northmount ) a lot of us collect manuals in case we ever buy the machine in question.

That description could ( apart from the needle number ) fit Triumph Motorcycles :)

Dogs in front of the needle make it easier to control the material when in reverse. Short dogs are better for curves.

Toothpaste contains calcium carbonate..( finely ground marble dust or limestone dust if you will ) which is the abrasive / polishing part of the toothpaste.Calcium carbonate hardness number ..from 3 to 5 mohs https://www.tedpella.com/company_html/hardness.htm Steel is from 5 to 8 mohs. So steel ( your tools ) is harder than toothpaste..to sharpen or polish a material, the material that one is using to sharpen or polish must be harder than the material one is sharpening or polishing..you can wear a groove in marble or limestone by rubbing it with a steel tool, you cannot wear a groove in a steel tool by rubbing it with calcium carbonate or limestone. Nor can you sharpen or hone a steel tool by stropping it on a surface that has had toothpaste , calcium carbonate dust, or limestone dust impregnated into the surface ( leather or wood )..you are cleaning the surface of the tool, you are not sharpening it, nor honing it.

Both the Cobra and the Cowboy ( and many others )..are actually clones of the Juki 441.

to access google drive, ( and thus to see your pictures ) one has to either have a google account, or sign into google, some of us try to avoid being tracked by google all over the web ( which "signing in" means will happen )..a picture posted here is much better, applies to your "wallet thread too"..not everyone wants "to have to sign into google anything" just to see what someone is talking about. Plus..a picture posted ( uploaded to leatherworker.net ) will still be around later, which makes far more sense for someone who arrives at any "thread" at some time in the future..Google has a history of removing "things"..( remember "wave" ) ..same applies to all the free image hosting sites..many of them now require payment, ( Google just tracks all the websites that you visit, forever, as does facebook..TINSTAAFL* )and so many threads here and elsewhere on the web that included images to "outside" are now broken and no-one can see the images.. HTH :) TINSTAAFL..There Is No Such Thing As A Free Lunch.

Both those units would still leave the machine with a clutch motor that goes like a bat out of hell ( unless you get very good, takes some people a long time to learn how, some never get the hang of it, at "feathering the clutch" ), and runs all the time, consuming a lot of electrical power ( and money ) , whereas for around the same money as those "converters", you can get a servo motor that runs very slow, or fast ( set it how you want it to run ), much more control, much more torque ( can punch through thicker leather at slow speeds ) ..and only uses electrical power when you press the pedal. Servo motors are also very quiet when they are running , compared with clutch motors which run all the time that they are switched on, and are noisy..you can run a servo motor machine in an apartment with neighbours below or above, with thin walls..a machine running a clutch motor will have your neighbours "disturbed".

What he said :) ..you could convert the motor that you have to run on monophase, but, it would still go like a bat outta hell, much better to buy a monophase servo motor which will allow you to control it stitch by stitch, and which only consumes power when you actually press down on the pedal, better for your stitching, your nerves, and your wallet.Switching out the motors is really easy to do..Many threads here about servo motors. copy this next line entirely "as it is". site:leatherworker.net servo motor then paste it into the search box of Google or Bing or whatever search engine you use, hit the "search" button..the search results will be all the times that servo motors have been discussed here at leatherworker.net HTH :)

arbalet12..member here..beautiful work..does custom stamps..very reasonable prices .. http://leatherworker.net/forum/profile/10555-arbalet12/

Can you do tooling ( not the complicated stuff like Sheridan, but can you follow along over a line with a small beveller type tool ) or leather carving ? btw..are you watching this thread too..? http://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/77720-relatively-new-and-want-some-new-ideas-or-suggestions/?tab=comments#comment-514798

Try the businesses that advertise here ( their banners are on the top of the pages here ) then, that tension mechanism is common to many machines, not just the machine that you have.

Without knowing who you have already bought from ( and were not satisfied with what you received ), and where you have looked ( and not found" quality" ), it is going to be very hard for any recommendations to be able to avoid the places that you have bought from or that you have already looked at and dismissed.

I concur with Floyd :) That is indeed a cute sander burnisher..what is the wattage?

No..Doesn't matter what you heard / read ..just ..No.

Wet molding around something that needs bag to protect it from the elements might not be such a good idea..shorting what might be a lithium pack can be spectacular, and very hard to extinguish. "samsung galaxy note 7 syndrome"

Depends on your version of windows and of IE if movies on that site ( and some others will play, they are encoded in an apple format that used to play without problem in windows IE version, but Microsoft removed the ability to play them if you are not using edge and win10..But..all is not lost :) Follow the instructions that I gave in this other thread..and you can watch that video, and all the others, and even save a copy to your computer . thread..with instructions for when you may have problems watching some videos. http://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/77391-singer-45k1-restoration-decals/?page=3 to watch the video about sporrans.you need to copy this next line ( by highlighting it and doing "right click" choose "copy" ) ..and then follow the instructions. http://vod.nls.uk/hls-vod/ssa/7524/75247363.15.m3u8 HTH :)

In case you have not seen it already..archive film of making a leather sporran. https://movingimage.nls.uk/film/0958

Wow..you pay 4 times the price even I pay for threaded bar at those dimensions..unless you are talking "stainless" ?