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Tramps Leatherworking

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Everything posted by Tramps Leatherworking

  1. I was going to say fold it then pound it into submission with a hammer, but the concrete block idea works also...
  2. Bruce, welcome to the Forum and the wonderful world of leatherworking... I currently use three different types of SK blades, a 3/8" straight, 1/4" straight, and a 1/4" angled. For larger designs that do not have a lot of tight turns I use the 3/8" straight blade, for smaller areas I use the 1/4" straight, and for very tight designs with a lot of sharp turns I use the 1/4" angled. Some of the more proficient carvers can use the 3/8" straight blade with ease for almost all carving, I am not one of them... Since my eyesight is not quite as good as it once was, I find the 1/4" straight blade gives me better vision of my cuts --- for really tight designs the 1/4" angled blade is invaluable, at least for me...
  3. As long as it is structurally sound I would leave it as is and use it... I love having old machines/leatherworking equipment in the shop that I can still use... If nothing else, it makes for a great conversation piece.
  4. Great work Danielle, I attended an Alice Cooper concert in 1977 at the height of his career, it is still one of the most awesome shows I ever attended...
  5. Thanks for sharing your process, I will have to experiment with that... That is quite a beautiful piece of work.
  6. That is quite nice, how did you achieve the dye pattern, if you don't mind me asking...
  7. Wow, that is the nicest cue case I have ever seen, your son must be quite the pool player...
  8. The ONLY reason I ever use a smaller bottom thread is when I am using thread that is at the limit of what my machines will sew --- the largest thread my current machine will accept on the bottom is 207, but I can use 277 on the top with a #24 needle...
  9. Didn't the Singer 43-4 originally have a roller presser?
  10. I know what your concern is, about 30 years ago I went down at 55 mph because of a deer, luckily the leathers held up quite well, no road rash...
  11. Resurrection time...I must have missed this one... Good job! How is the seat holding up?
  12. Ta2ooz, I use 3-4 oz full grain chrome tanned leather for all my vests and there has never been an issue with wearing them in inclimate weather. I use Fiebings Aussie leather conditioner on all my leathers and, trust me, I have rode in some very heavy rain storms in my 30+ years of riding. I have leathers that are 20 years old and still look almost new.. To answer your question regarding the oily feel, you might try Fiebings saddle soap...
  13. Michu, thread is like most products, people tend to have their favorites --- I have bought/used A&E bonded polyester thread from The Thread Exchange for years, and have NO complaints at all... I have also used bonded nylon thread from Nick-O-Sew, which I also like... I have used these threads in everything from my 96 year old Singer 127 treadle, to my Consew 227-R-2 with no issues.
  14. Sanding is one thing, but for the whole process of edge finishing I use Bobby Parks method... There are almost as many ways to finish edges as their are leatherworkers, it's pretty much whatever works for you is not wrong if you are getting great results.
  15. Chances are it is vinyl, and if so I would recommend Dupli-Color Vinyl and Fabric coating...
  16. I'm not Monica, but it depends on the look you are after --- unless you want the stitching to be a focal point, #69 thread with a size 18 needle would give you a cleaner look. imho...
  17. I have a Nick-O-Sew NKS-5500 servo motor on my Consew 227-R-2, great control, plenty of power, I love it...
  18. Try The Thread Exchange... http://www.thethreadexchange.com/miva/merchant.mvc?
  19. Thor, there is no issue with what you described. Sometimes on thin leather I use two straight edges on each side of the item with just the edge to be sanded exposed, and then clamp them in the stitching pony, it works quite well...
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