Uwe

I’d say the Juki LU-1508NS is very close in certain design elements and capability to the Singer 111W155, likely better in several aspects, definitely better in terms of usability and convenience. The 1508 should be able to sew anything the 111W155 can sew. As for the max thread specs on industrial sewing machines, they really mean that you can run that thread in the machine at full speed all day long in a high-volume production setting at a factory. Sewing a handful of projects per day at count-along speeds isn’t going to stress out the machine. The Juki LU-1541 is a very different design internally from the LU-1508, even though they look nearly identical on the outside. The LU-1508 runs about $1K more than the LU-1541. The LU-1508 design is available in various clone versions from several vendors (Cowboy, Artisan, TechSew, etc.) The Artisan 1508-10H might be worth a look - it claims to sew up to size 277 thread. Artisan is located in California, too, which might make logistics easier. Being able to pick up a machine in person is priceless.

The Juki LH-2800 series is another candidate that accepts Singer style feet. The 2800 is quite imposing when you sit in front of it, compared to the 1508 and Singer 111W155. [rant mode ON] These machines likely run between $4K-$7K, depending on model and configuration. Not everybody wants the cheapest possible tool for a job. Some want the best possible tool they can afford. The cost of a Singer 111W155 a hundred years ago wasn’t all that different, when you account for inflation. $5,000 in 2021 is roughly the same value as $400 back in 1920. Another example, the Adler 205-370 cost $5,000 back in 1990 (that’s $10,000 in 2021 money,) but many people nowadays think it’s insane that a modern, improved version of that machine should cost about the same (e.g. the DA 969-H Type.) The availability of cheap vintage machines and mass produced clones are distorting the perceived value of these machines.[rant mode OFF] There’s fairly detailed discussion of both Juki machines in this topic:

Look for the Juki LU-1508NH, it's rated for size 207 thread.

Amann Serafil Ticket No. 20 is the same size as Tex No. 135 (138). Tex thread sizes are used in the USA https://www.amann.com/products/product/serafil/ We really need to see a video snippet of what is actually wrong. We’re all just guessing as to what’s really happening. Upload a video snippet to YouTube and the post the link here.

Here’s a PDF guide by Groz Beckert on the various leather needle types and their respective stitch lines: needle_points_leather.pdf

Just for reference, here’s a demo video I made some time ago that shows how my Adler 467 works: Ter referentie, hier is een demovideo die ik enige tijd geleden heb gemaakt en die laat zien hoe mijn Adler 467 werkte:

Here’s the page of the service manual that talks about the thread cutter: Hier is de pagina van de servicehandleiding die over de draadafsnijder gaat: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/464955/Duerkopp-Adler-467.html?page=16#manual

Since the thread comes out of the needle at the end of sewing, it may be a problem with your automatic thread cutter. Thread doesn’t come out of the needle at the end of sewing unless you cut it. Adjusting an automatic thread cutter is not simple. It seems nearly impossible remotely and with a language barrier. Aangezien de draad aan het einde van het naaien uit de naald komt, kan dit een probleem zijn met uw automatische draadafsnijder. De draad komt aan het einde van het naaien pas uit de naald als u deze afknipt. Het afstellen van een automatische draadafsnijder is niet eenvoudig. Het lijkt op afstand bijna onmogelijk en met een taalbarrière.

If you try to remove the material while the hook has a hold of the top thread, you get those threads pulling out of the feed dog. The proper way to remove the material is: keep turning the handwheel until the thread take-up lever is in the very top position, then remove the material. Side note: Those loops on the underside are a problem, too. They indicate that the thread snags at some point as the hook wraps it around the bobbin case.

I'm thinking the hook timing may need to be advanced instead of retarded, but it's hard to judge without sitting in front of the machine. There's some trial and error involved. Also, the check spring is an often-ignored, yet key component in this issue. It's supposed to keep just enough tension on the thread as it wraps around the hook and, ideally, take up any slack that may occur. So while the modification does work, there may be simpler solutions via basic adjustments. The topic below has the full details for my arbor shim solution and also a neat custom solution by another user on page two. Keep in mind that your hook is slightly larger than the ones we were working on in that topic. Dimensions will vary slightly on your hook.

It’s possible that your problem occurs when you stop the machine at precisely the wrong time and the hook moves backwards a tiny bit. In the video below I show a problem that I had with a Consew 225, which has a very similar hook design to the LU-563, just a bit smaller. If you can purposely make your machine drop the thread in the position shown in the video, then it will probably happen on its own on some occasions. In the video I show a modification of the hook, which solved the problem, but it probably wasn’t the only way to fix it. I later replace the tab with a full shim ring on that hook and it worked nicely. I’m not saying that you need to modify your hook! A small advancement of the hook timing may keep the thread taught enough to prevent the thread from falling. Also, the check spring plays a key role in how taught the thread is when it gets wrapped around the bobbin.

@DonInReno thanks for sharing! I’ll try not to let all that fame go to my head

I just got that same tape folder to try out on my 441 class machines. I think it’s designed for application where the tape folder floats in mid-air, mounted to a swiveling arm. That tape folder is BIG and I think it’s designed for 441 class machines (also implied by the KHF-441 part number.) It has an offset on the underside to lower it for proper alignment with the throat plate. I don’t think this tape folder is suitable for mounting to the slide plate of a flatbed machine. Here are some pictures of mine (wire guide not installed): There’s more to the binding story, especially more parts. Here’s the full set of parts I got to make this tape folder work on a 441 class machine. I’ll make a separate topic once I’ve had a chance to try it out. This photo is just to illustrate that it takes more than just a tape folder to do binding on certain machines.

You may just need to adjust hook timing a little to make sure the take-up lever and the hook don’t fight each other over the thread. I remember having a machine that would snag on the end of that hook gib. It’s been a while and I don’t remember all the details, but replacing the hook may not solve your problem. I think the little finger on the gib of other hook version is mainly there to keep control of the loop a little bit longer as it’s being pulled up by the take-up lever, so that the loop doesn’t get caught again by the tip of the hook as it comes around. Thinner thread tends to flop around more, especially at high sewing speeds. As the take-up up lever pulls the thread up, the hook needs to let go of it at just the right moment. If the hook holds on too long, it will interfere with the take-up lever’s job, the thread will snag and cause problems. If the hook lets go of the thread too soon the tip of the hook may catch the too-loose loop a second time and cause a bind. Most people only focus on the tip of the hook catching the loop when timing the hook. How the hook lets go of the thread on the second go-around is important for a buttery smooth stitch cycle. I think on my machine I advanced the hook timing a little to make the tip of the hook arrive at the needle a little bit sooner. This, in turn, also lets go of the thread a tiny bit sooner after the thread gets wrapped around the bobbin case. A short close-up video snippet of a very slow, hand turned stitch cycle would be very useful. Post it to YouTube as non-public and then post the link to it here. It’s the best way to share videos, and the best way to analyze hook timing issues remotely. I had a Juki LU-563 clone five years ago and installed an aftermarket “BA0” thick-thread version of the hook. I had trouble timing it correctly but eventually got it sorted out. This video shows my hook when timing was retarded (too late). It made a good looking stitch but it made snapping noises because it would let go of the thread too late. This is the hook timing after I got done adjusting timing. The caption talks about timing belt changes, but I believe now that it really was the advanced hook timing (making the hook arrive earlier at the needle) that made everything come together:

This Singer/W&W 51W23 also looks a lot like yours. Unfortunately, documentation is nearly non-existent online. http://industrialsewingmachinereviews.biz/industrial_singer_wheeler_wilson_model_51w23_post_bed_sewing_machine_head_only.htm

Apparently, Singer took over Wheeler & Wilson in 1905. Your machine is likely a circa 1905 model, since Singer retired the Wheeler & Wilson brand soon after acquiring it. Singer was, in some ways, the Microsoft of its day, absorbing small companies into its growing empire to add patents and features. Singer has a bit of reputation of being brilliant at manufacturing designs hat others invented on a large scale, sometimes contributing to the demise of smaller companies. Wheeler and Wilson patented both the rotating hook and the four-motion feed dog. No wonder Singer was happy to add those patents to their portfolio. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wheeler_%26_Wilson

Very likely an early Singer 51W variant. No documentation on a Singer 51W3 that I can find, though. Singer may have made a special version for A.E.N. Co. This looks like a very close relative to a machine that @Constabulary restored:

Like @Constabulary said in the an other topic, the needles are obsolete. Chances of finding some are very slim. Since you apparently don’t have any needles to take measurements off of, your best chance of sewing with your machine may be trying to use system 1000H needles, which are still being made by Schmetz. I doesn’t cost much to try. If you are lucky the shank diameter is the same, and you may just have to lower the needle bar enough (about 20mm) to time the machine. System 1000H needles are 73mm, and System 794 needles are 60mm butt-to-eye. Both have 2.5mm shank diameter. Here’s the previous topic with all the details:

Forum rules say that you have to state a price.

[Infomercial alert] I finally got motivated to make an acrylic flatbed attachment for my Juki LS-341. I like it enough to make a few more for sale. Below are a few pictures and a video. I’ll call it the UT341AC and It’ll be available in my online store at http://uwe.store for $60 starting on February 1, 2021. I’ve only tested fit on my Juki LS-341. It may also fit other machines and clones of the 341 or 1341 designs (Juki LS-1341, Cobra Class 26, Cowboy CB-1341/6900, etc. TechSew 2750/4800 , etc.) If you live in the US and have one or more of these machines, please let me know via PM if you’re interested in a test fitting on your machine and taking a few pictures.

Mainly the Adler 69 and 169 have very different arm and hook designs, each with its own merits and shortcomings. Both are light/medium duty machines. Relative merits of thin vs. thick arms, and horizontal vs. vertical axis hooks have been discussed in multiple topics previously. This question really belongs in a new/separate topic, as this particular topic is about Adler 105 vs.169.

Those google drive links don't work for me. It's far better to upload pictures directly here for archiving purposes. The editor window will show a "Drag files here to attach, or choose files..." near the bottom. You may have to resize pictures if they're too large to upload here directly. The Adler 67GK373 are VERY nice machines and if in good condition are likely worth $800 or more, depending table and motor. It's hard to judge the true condition of a machine without sitting in front of it and seeing/hearing it sew. Drag files here to attach, or choose files... Insert other media

My Pfaff 545 has the same presser foot adjustment spring design. What you described is all there is to it, I'm afraid. Pfaff designed the machine to have a "reasonable" foot pressure, you get a tiny adjustment range around that starting point. Pfaff engineer with fake German accent: "Vee vill set zee spring pressure for you and you vill like it!" Other versions of this machine have one or two spring blades across the top, offering a wider adjustment range. My recommendation is to just live with it and enjoy this fine machine as it is. Chances are it will hold most materials just fine. Presser foot design and footprint may have a bigger impact on marking leather than spring pressure. If you find yourself losing sleep over the limited adjustment range, shop for a version with the spring blades. @sandmanred: By the way, you have to select a user from the drop-down menu (it will look like this: @Uwe ) to make notifications work. A simple @uwe does not work.

Congratulations on your Juki LU-563, they’re very nice machines. There’s plenty of topics here on LW about that machine to read up on (search Google for “site:leatherworker.net Juki 563”). Start a new topic if you have specific questions.