Uwe

Lately I've been contemplating the recurring theme of footlift handle extensions for the 441 class of sewing machines (Juki TSC-441, Cowboy CB-4500 CB-3200, Techsew 5100, etc.,) mainly to avoid having to make more of my UX441 handles, which were just much too labor intensive to make. These footlift handle extensions become a necessity if you install a swing-down edge guide. The original handle interferes with the edge guide and needs to be either removed or extended. I think I found a decent solution that is low-cost, almost pretty, and it actually works. Most importantly, you can make it yourself from parts readily available on Amazon or Ebay. For about USD $15, you can make TWO handle extensions and still have one dowel pin left over. I don't think I can come up with a simpler solution, so this is likely my final take on this topic. The parts should be available outside of North America, too - shaft connectors and dowel pins are somewhat generic items. Here's the Amazon shopping list (with both blue aluminum and silvery steel shaft connectors) : https://www.amazon.com/hz/wishlist/ls/ISFGAFA3QMTY?ref_=wl_share The ONLY modification I made to the parts is grinding two flat spots onto the dowel pin, one on each end. This takes about one minute. Step 1: Remove the existing handle (this may be harder than you think - it took me nearly half an hour to get my glued-and-screwed-on original handle off using Acetone to dissolve the glue) Step 2: Grind two flat spots on the dowel pin Step 3 : Assemble the extension (see images below) Step 4: Attach original handle to the extension Step 5: Install extended handle back on machine(use Lock-Tite or similar glue to make it as permanent as you want) Here's a picture of the parts. The dowel pin on top is the original, the bottom one shows the two ground flat spots: Here are the pictures that show the assembled extension by itself: Here's how the complete assembly looks installed on my Cowboy CB-3200: If you don't think you can handle this DIY task, you can buy the handle extension ( I call it UX441N ) alone or as part of an edge guide kit on my website at http://uwe.store soon.

Sorry, I have none left. A few sellers on Ebay have them, just search for "KB267", order and then be patient for free shipping from China.

Sorry about the little infomercial, but I finally got around to making a flatbed attachment that fits the Cowboy CB-3200 machine. I call it the UT3200. It's available in my webstore at http://uwe.store I had hoped to make a mounting plate that will fit both the 4500 and the 3200, but soon abandoned that idea. The design in the mounting area of the arms is just too different. It took half a dozen prototypes to get it right. This little exercise reinforced the notion that you simply won't know for sure until you try it out. The Cowboy CB-3200 also lacks the mount point in the middle of the arm like the CB-4500, but it turned out plenty sturdy in my opinion. The UT441 and the UT3200 look deceptively similar from the top, but they are NOT interchangeable! The underside of the mounting plate is quite different: Here's the image of the CAD model of the underside of the UT3200 plate: Here's what the mounting plates look like coming off my new Tormach CNC mill (UT441 plate) It turns out the CB-3200 only looks like the little brother of the CB-4500, but in reality it's a distant cousin, once removed. The UT3200 *may* fit a few other short arm machines but, again, I won't know for sure until somebody tries it out. Here are a few photos of the new flatbed table attachment followed by the installation video: Here's the installation video:

You got yourself a really good deal there! The downside is that everything else associated with this machine will appear wickedly expensive in comparison. Kwok Hing makes very nice presser feet for the Adler x67 and x69 series (http://khsew.com) some are knurled, some are perfectly smooth. Don't obsess over the "very aggressive knurling", just try it out and see if it works for you. Thread and needles specs are listed in the manual, generally size 138 thread is your max on this class of machine, needles are spec'd at a rather narrow range of 120NM-150NM. The brochure and user manual has details. Adler 67-372-373 Brochure.pdf Quick Guide.pdf

I think that spline shaft belonged to a second potentiometer that was originally wired in series with the pedal-driven potentiometer. It’s only used to offset pedal volume in the original music application of the pedal. It’s not used for the motor control modification.

Normally the reverse lever on the DA 204/205 has enough friction to stay wherever you put it. The DA 204/205 lever mechanism is different from the Juki 441 class that uses a return spring. You can adjust the lever friction in two different ways. 1. There‘s a small set screw inside an outer locking nut directly behind the reverse lever on the backside of the machine. Loosen the outer lock nut and then you can adjust the inner set screw until the friction is „just right“, meaning you can still move the lever and it stays wherever you put it. Small adjustments do the trick. Don‘t loosen that set screw all the way - it‘ll disconnect from the part it‘s holding and then you have to disassemble a few pieces on the top to get access to put everything back to where it was. The set screw needs to sit in side the notch on the larger clamping part. 2. Adjust the clamping screw that is accessible under the lever ( a little tricky to see and get to) Hopefully the snippet from the parts diagram will help illustrate the parts I‘m talking about. In my experience both adjustments work fine and I honestly don‘t know which way is „better.“ The screw on the backside of the machine is easier to get to but also more prone to causing problems if loosened too much.

Thank you for inventing this elegant and simple mounting solution and sharing the details with us. Thanks also for the sourcing links - interesting that the identical part is available in Germany for a mere third of what vendors here in North America charge.

That's a "no" on both questions, sorry!

I only have the German language version of the Adler 68 Service Manual: Adler 68 Justieranleitung.pdf I does describe how to adjust the feed motion to make it as close to a rectangle as possible on Pages 16 and 17. Basically, the eccentric 58 can be adjusted to change when the feed dog comes up and goes down.

Can you post a few picture of your machine from all sides, including the top and underside? It seems to me the feed motion needs to be advanced a little so that it is all the way forward by the time the needle comes down. It's hard to guess exactly how your machine is configured underneath. My Adler 68 had independent top and bottom feed, so it probably looks very different from your machine underneath. In any case, a few detailed pictures with good lighting and focus may allow us to suggest possible adjustments and draw arrows on the pictures to explain what we are talking about.

The short answer is: No, it shouldn't be like that. The needle should not keep moving forward after it penetrates the material. Your feed and needle movements are out of synch and need to be adjusted. That video link above does not work, by the way.

Three years ago I bought a small warehouse full of mostly heavy duty industrial sewing machine, about 30 cabinets worth of vintage parts, and about a dozen boxes full of original vintage documentation and sales literature. I've decided to simplify my life and change direction. That plan includes selling the entire remaining inventory wholesale for a firm $15,000. That calculates to an average of $100 per machine, with literally tons of free parts and documentation. Some machines are worth less than $100, but some machines a worth several $1,000. I'm NOT interested in selling individual machines or parts, it's all or nothing. The pictures are from 2016 when I bought the inventory. The entire inventory now lives in my 900 square foot garage on four industrial palette storage units, each measuring 4' wide x 8' long x 8' high, just so that you have an idea how much storage space you'll need to plan for. Count on needing at least 500 square feet of 10' tall warehouse space to house this inventory. Three of my four palette storage units will be for sale separately, in case you want some. Fair warning - it took me nearly a month to move the inventory to my location in 2016 - by myself. It should be a lot quicker this time around since I re-packaged most of the parts and broke down many of the tables to save storage space. Prepare to spend several days loading this stuff into a container or onto a really big truck by yourself. If you show up with a team of burly movers, it may go a lot quicker. Most of the big machines are on rolling plywood platforms or dollies and relatively easy to maneuver. I have a riding forklift that you're welcome to use (but only if you know how to use it.) You'll need to bring pallets or wooden crates (available very cheap locally near Monroe, Michigan.) My garage is in a residential neighborhood and I need to be mindful of my neighbors. If you are seriously interested send me a DM here on LW, email me directly at uwe@uwe.net or call me at +1 734-536-0901. I don't want to discuss details publicly or make the identity of the buyer known. I've updated the pictures PDF and inventory PDF to exclude the machines I sold in the past three years. The 150 machine count is approximate and likely on the conservative side. I live near Detroit, Michigan in the US. I'll be in Europe from May 8-31, just FYI. Here's the PDF with the pictures: Uwe-Inventory-Pictures-2016.pdf Here's a PDF with the inventory details:InventoryList2019.pdf I'm attaching a few pictures of the machine highlights.

You’ll probably need a specialized carpet binding machine with built-in pullers. A simple walking foot isn’t going to pull a large rug through the machine. This Youtube video shows the type of machine you likely need: The machines made by N-C Carpet are not cheap http://www.n-ccarpet.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=600_1500&product_id=321

The Juki LU-563 Subclass 3 machines normally have a separate little sticker just below the main ID plate. That little “Subclass 3” sticker can easily come off and get lost. In my book any Juki LU-563 without reverse is a Subclass 3. The standard Juki LU-563 also have a tell-tale reverse lever shaft attachment point visible on the left side of the riser. That detail is missing on your machine. So yours is a Subclass 3, as opposed to a regular LU-563 which just had the reverse lever removed.

Would you mind sharing the link to that website? These kind of reference to online resources work best if you make it a clickable link. Don't make dozens of people try and Google it when you already know the website address.

The only example I could find of a flatbed attachment for the Durkopp Adler 869 is sold by Sieck (http://www.sieck.de/en/machines/sewing-bags-and-leathergoods/arm-type-triple-transport/?produkt=7286) in Germany. They charge 200 Euro for that flatbed attachment. Here’s a picture from their website for the LW archives: The arm design of the DA 869 is very different from the vintage DA 69 and modern DA 669. The flatbed attachment I make for the vintage DA 69 won’t fit the DA 869.

It's the bobbin winder from a Singer 132K. I can only make out the "41896" number in the pictures above, but it matches the parts diagram of the Singer 132K. Looks like yours is missing the rubber "tire" that should sit in the groove and provide friction against the handwheel. Here's the picture from the SInger 132K owner's manual (Singer 132K Manual.pdf) This page is from the Singer 132K parts list (132K6_10_12.pdf)

The Durkopp Adler 205-370 class of machines and clones are by far the best synchronized binding solution I've seen in that category of machines. The synchronized binding solutions for the Juki TSC-441 and clones look similar, but don't function the same way. I've not personally used the 205 clones sold by SewPro, Weaver, or Cowboy dealers. I would expect them to be of similar quality. The 205 clones I have lack the access hole in the arm needed for synchronized binding. The length of the arm on the 205 clone is an important consideration. The synchronized binder kit that Kwok Hing makes is designed for the standard 12" arm (DA 205-370). Some clone machines have longer arms (e.g. 205-420) and may not accept the KH synchronized binder kit. You can order KH parts for the DA 205 directly from their online store: http://www.khsew.com/index.php?route=product/search&search=205 You have to register to see pricing and place an order. The order confirmation email normally includes Paypal as a payment option. KH also released a fixed binder kit (KH205-FNP/FDB) recently, but I've not yet tried it. This kit should work with all 205 clones, regardless of arm length or access holes. Here's my installation video mentioned earlier, using an original Adler 205-370: Here's a video with a few binding samples:

I'd recommend trying standard Pfaff double-toe feet with a knurled outer foot (e.g. Kwok Hing part KP-1245W). I have some left in stock if you need it fast (KP1245W). If you have time, you can also order directly from Kwok Hing at http://khsew.com for less. The inner foot is perfectly smooth to begin with except for climbing teeth at the front. I doubt the knurled outer foot will leave major marks, but if it does, it's easy to turn it into to a smooth outer foot. I prefer using a pneumatic rotary sanding disc tool to make toothed feet perfectly smooth in about a minute or two. The bigger the footprint, the less likely it is to leave marks. Tiny footprints are not your friend when trying to avoid marking leather. Here's a picture of the underside of the KP1245W feet:

You are talking about the needle guard. This is a part that can be bent slightly and carefully with a screw driver to adjust it. When bending the needle guard, make sure you don't use the hook tip as a lever point (it may break the tip of the hook!). Rotate the hook into a position so you can use the body casting as a lever point to push the needle guard plate in or out. The needle guard is supposed to barely touch the needle when the tip of hook is at the needle. The function of the needle guard is really to protect the hook. It prevents the needle from getting deflected towards the hook and causing the hook to strike the needle. It's best to upload videos to Youtube and share the link here in order to keep the video with the topic and so that others can see and learn from it too. I can do it for you if you don't know how. My email address is uwe@uwe.net I made a short video once that was an addendum to a hook timing video. It shows how the needle guard is supposed to barely touch (or "kiss") the needle. The same applies to the Pfaff 193 (and just about all other machines with a needle guard.)

That picture upload did not work, sorry. It's a bit of a science to upload pictures in this form. Unless you pay-to-play, you have to downsize pictures before uploading. Either way, you can drag-and-drop or use the "choose files ..." link to upload pictures. The post on the Pfaff 193/593 (and many other post bed designs, I suspect) consists of two halves that can be moved independently. The left half of the post (blue in the picture below) is the feed dog carrier - it needs to stay aligned with the needle. The right half of the post (red) is the hook carrier. Either half can be moved independently of the other a small distance. This allows you to adjust the distance between hook and needle. The left side of the post needs to stay aligned with the needle, to make sure the needle is centered with the hole in the feed dog. In order to adjust the position of the hook relative and the needle, you have to move the RIGHT portion of the post. The post cover plates front and back have slotted holes or simply slide over the opposing part to allow relative position changes between the two halves of the post. In order to adjust the right half of the post, you'll also have to move the hook driving gears to make sure they stay nicely meshed. That's my theory, in any case. I have a Pfaff 593 but I've not yet adjusted hook-to-needle distance on it. If, as you say, it's really the bottom of the bobbin case that touches the needle, something totally different may be going on. Pictures are indeed required to have any chance of remote debugging. Here's a detail picture of my Pfaff 593 post. You can see that the front cover plate is really only attached to the left half of the post.

That may be true for a few particular models. Perhaps you misinterpreted something or somebody misspoke when you were there. Durkopp Adler has factories in several countries (Germany, Czech Republic, China, etc.) Only a select number of models are produced in Bielefeld nowadays, mostly high-end automated workstations for garment production. The Durkopp Adler 267 Traditional in particular is produced in China, I'm quite certain. The showroom in Bielefeld appears to have nearly every model Durkopp Adler (and Pfaff) currently makes on display, but not all those machines are built in Bielefeld. At least that was true when I was there in 2017.

You likely won't find a manual specific to just your model, but rather a general manual that covers a bunch of available options, including yours. The "G" means that it should have a wheel on top of the machine to adjust walking height (stroke) of the feet. The HP option means that it is capable of switching between two walking heights by means of a knee switch. Actuating the knee switch makes the machine use max foot walking height (to cross seams, etc.,) The default walking height is the one dialed in with the wheel on top of machine.On some machines, changing walking foot height also limits the maximum sewing speed. The Durkopp Adler 467 Service Manual (Durkopp-Adler-467-Service-Instructions.pdf ) covers various options, including your "G" and the "HP". Post some pictures of your machine including the type plate on the back, when you get a chance.

Love that acrylic handwheel @threepets!

I have a nice original Adler 30-1 and I'm game to meet up in Akron, OH about halfway to your ZIP. I'll send you some pictures later today. Regards, Uwe