Uwe

Mainly the Adler 69 and 169 have very different arm and hook designs, each with its own merits and shortcomings. Both are light/medium duty machines. Relative merits of thin vs. thick arms, and horizontal vs. vertical axis hooks have been discussed in multiple topics previously. This question really belongs in a new/separate topic, as this particular topic is about Adler 105 vs.169.

Those google drive links don't work for me. It's far better to upload pictures directly here for archiving purposes. The editor window will show a "Drag files here to attach, or choose files..." near the bottom. You may have to resize pictures if they're too large to upload here directly. The Adler 67GK373 are VERY nice machines and if in good condition are likely worth $800 or more, depending table and motor. It's hard to judge the true condition of a machine without sitting in front of it and seeing/hearing it sew. Drag files here to attach, or choose files... Insert other media

My Pfaff 545 has the same presser foot adjustment spring design. What you described is all there is to it, I'm afraid. Pfaff designed the machine to have a "reasonable" foot pressure, you get a tiny adjustment range around that starting point. Pfaff engineer with fake German accent: "Vee vill set zee spring pressure for you and you vill like it!" Other versions of this machine have one or two spring blades across the top, offering a wider adjustment range. My recommendation is to just live with it and enjoy this fine machine as it is. Chances are it will hold most materials just fine. Presser foot design and footprint may have a bigger impact on marking leather than spring pressure. If you find yourself losing sleep over the limited adjustment range, shop for a version with the spring blades. @sandmanred: By the way, you have to select a user from the drop-down menu (it will look like this: @Uwe ) to make notifications work. A simple @uwe does not work.

Congratulations on your Juki LU-563, they’re very nice machines. There’s plenty of topics here on LW about that machine to read up on (search Google for “site:leatherworker.net Juki 563”). Start a new topic if you have specific questions.

What’s wrong with Weaver’s needle guide shims? International shipping will likely be more than the part itself. The earlier link pointed to a different part that is used for adjusting needle-to-hook distance. Based on your description, I’m guessing you want these: https://www.weaverleathersupply.com/catalog/item-detail/204-15-029-0/160-shim-for-the If they’re too expensive for your taste, just leave the needle guide off entirely. Chances are you’ll never know it’s missing unless you sew wicked tough material or have an entire saddle dangling off the arm. You can also make your own shims from aluminum scraps of suitable thickness (250=2.5mm, 160=1.6mm etc.) I’ve contemplated cutting some from acrylic sheets on my laser.

@BattleAx you can hide a user’s signature by clicking on the little down-arrow pop-up menu in top right area of the signature. Embedding videos in the signature is perhaps not a recommended practice. It took me a few moments to figure what was going on and how Arnold infiltrated this topic, haha. I’ve hidden quite a few signatures over the years.

The Pfaff 335 binding kits are readily available on Ebay. Since they come from China, they likely ship to Slovenia. Here’s one example: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1SET-With-Binder-and-gauge-set-Complete-Binding-Attaching-fit-for-PFAFF-335-/152962537273?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292 This picture from the Ebay listing shows everything you need to do binding on your Pfaff 335.

The topic below has some details that may be of use. The KHF48 by Kwok Hing is a very nice option.

@HannahWingateDesigns Welcome to the forum. Don’t be afraid to start a new topic for a new problem. It keeps the topics cleaner and more focused. List the machine and problem in the title of the topic just like this original post did (e.g. “Juki 1541S: can’t put cover back on”). I suspect you have to turn the knob (Juki calls it the alternate vertical dial) into a certain position in order to put the cover back on. The knob likely pushes aside some spring loaded lever underneath and when you take the cover off, that lever snaps back into its starting position. Try turning the knob to either limit and see if the cover will go back on without interference. Look at the mechanism and see if you can figure out how it works. Post some detailed pictures of the open machine and the underside of the removed cover. We might be able to use the pictures figure it out and add arrows to explain what you need to do. You’ll have to learn some essential debugging skills, otherwise you’ll be dead in the water every time some little thing goes wrong, waiting for a callback from tech support. Study the user, parts, and engineer’s manuals to learn as much as you can about your machine. Closely inspect the machine to see how things connect and move before you make changes. Resist the temptation to blame the vendor for something you did. Many companies are plain shut down over the holidays. No need to get agitated over a delay in response at this time of year. In general, don’t take things apart unless you know how they go back together (unless you can afford down time want to just explore and learn) Edit: I just found this snippet in the Juki 1541S Engineer’s Manual that describes how to put the cover back on:

The walking feet only walk when you actually have presser feet attached. The rear foot can only lift up if the front foot steps onto something. Whatever “standard adjustment” you made to accommodate the thick stack caused this problem. I suspect you raised the rear presser bar. Undo that adjustment. Don’t raise it again. If the material doesn’t fit under feet, it’s not meant to be sewn on that machine. Raising the rear presser bar does not solve that problem, it just creates other problems. Attempting to sew material thicker than the design allows may cause a bind in the walking mechanism and as a result may cause an adjustment to slip (if you’re lucky) or something to break (if you’re unlucky.) When you raise the feet using the manual foot lift lever, the rear foot should lift a precise amount - no more, no less. That manual foot lift height varies between machine designs and will be shown in the adjustment manual for your machine. Bring your rear presser bar to the correct height before you proceed. There’s an adjustment on the back of the machine that may have slipped. The video below shows the basic concepts and adjustment procedure. It’s shown on a different machine, but yours should have very similar adjustments.

Just compare them visually against a known v69 or v92 thread, or against each other. And if you can’t tell the difference, then it likely won’t make a difference in real life. Or just pretend they’re all v69, to be on the safe side strength wise. Then wind some new bobbins with v92 for when you MUST be certain it’s v92.

This post sounds like a first world problem. It also sounds like some Guerilla advertising gimmick for Cobra. I’m not really sure what to make of it. You appear to have worked yourself into a state over a sewing machine you’ve never worked with but suddenly can’t live without. If nothing else is acceptable in your mind you will just have to wait. My advice is to spent he extra $500 on a good therapist instead.

Durkopp Adler also put together a comprehensive guide to shoemaking and the machines involved. It’s good reading for anybody interested in making shoes. Here’s the link: http://www.duerkopp-adler.com/export/sites/duerkoppadler/commons/download/technology_praxis/Technologie_Praxis_shoes.pdf Here’s the PDF file in case the link stops working in the future: Technologie_Praxis_shoes.pdf

Much depends on what type of shoes you plan to make. There’s a lot of specialty machinery involved in shoe making. I’ve never sewn a shoe myself, but I’ve spent a fair amount of time researching machines and watching demos at trade fairs and during a visit to the Durkopp Adler factory in Germany. Those vintage Puritans are nice when they work, but you’ll need an in-house mechanic to keep them working. I have a triple needle Puritan and have pretty much given up on getting it to work right. I don’t give up easily. It’s for sale, in case you enjoy pain and suffering. A dual driven wheel type post bed appears to be the machine of choice for sewing dress shoe uppers. Sewing the sole and then attached the sole to the uppers are *totally* different ballgames, again depending on the type of shoe or boot. On the modern end, both Pfaff and Durkopp Adler make very good machines that are not cheap, just like a good luxury handbag. Juki and other major brands have similar offerings. The post bed machine in the middle portion of the video below that shows it sewing just about the entire upper dress shoe is a M-Type Durkopp Adler with quite a few bells and whistles. The sewist makes it look easy - she’s been doing this for decades, no doubt. If you have a well adjusted machine like that and you fail, you can pretty much only blame yourself and keep practicing.

If you’re located in North America you can call MJ Foley at 1-800-MJ-FOLEY and check if they have that part available. The part shows up in their database when I search for it in my web interface, but I couldn’t see pricing or availability data. MJ Foley stores the part number as 91-010735-15 in their system. They show both OEM and Generic versions.

Yup, those are mounting holes for edge guides, like home-made. You may need a KB09 adapter bracket in order to install one of the popular KG867 edge guide or similar. Both are readily available from various vendors on Ebay end elsewhere. You’re missing the manual foot lift lever, by the way. Easy to replace and not a big deal if you plan to hook up a pedal or knee lift to operate the presser foot lift. If you’re buying a new manual foot lift lever, make sure you get the correct version for your H3 model. That part varies between the H1/H2/H3/H4 models, if I recall.

Gotta work on your search skills!

I doubt the take-up lever timing is adjustable and you will not find instructions for how to do it (because it’s impossible) The reason for this is that the needle bar and take up-lever movements are locked to each other by design. The needle bar (and thus take-up lever) movement is the master and everything else is timed based on that movement. Chances are that something else is off. Hook timing being a likely culprit. I’d check first to make sure that the stitch cycle does NOT pull thread through the tension unit at the wrong moment. The ONLY time thread should be pulled through the tension unit is when the thread take-up lever is at the very TOP of its movement. Do some very slow hand-turned stitches and observe the thread in the tension unit closely. If thread is being pulled through the tension unit at the wrong moment, it will be impossible for the take-up lever to pull the knot tight, regardless of thread tension settings. Often this is caused by the thread snagging somewhere in the hook area, or the hook timing being off. Sometimes the often-ignored check spring is the culprit. Or the bobbin case opener isn’t doing its job. One general rule to look for is this: When the hook pulls the thread around the farthest part of the bobbin case, that is precisely the time when the take-up level must be at the LOWEST position, providing maximum slack for the top thread. If the take-up levels is not at the very bottom at that moment, then more thread may be pulled through the tension unit. The way to fix this is by adjusting hook timing, not trying to adjust the non-adjustable take-up lever.

I suspect that this kind of tape folder isn’t really intended to be used with your synchronized binder plate, so the mounting holes may not be in a suitable position. You may have to modify the tape folder mounting bracket to increase the adjustment range. Dremel/grind out the mounting holes to make them slots, or something like that. The key view is the one you don’t show us: the backside of the tape folder to show us what the mounting bracket looks like. You may have to fabricate your own mounting bracket or extension and glue/screw/solder it to the tape folder.

I just made that little video earlier today for my initial reply, so it wasn’t to be found on my YouTube channel or anywhere else before today. I don’t actually have a Singer 211, so I can’t make machine specific videos and, apparently, I’m one of the people confused by the various uses for that particular eccentric assembly on that machine.

I think that’s the feed (and stitch length) eccentric, not the presser lift eccentric. The disk with the spiral groove should pull straight away from the mating disk. It may be glued in place by dried oil varnish. Use a hair dryer to heat up the assembly, or use more penetrating oil or acetone to break down the dried varnish. Here’s a brief video on how the assembly comes apart when it’s removed from the shaft:

Great, now Cowboy is actively trying to confuse people with their model numbering. The Cowboy CB-6900 is clearly a clone of the Juki LS-1341, and not even remotely related the Adler 69. Why they don’t simply call it the Cowboy CB-1341 is beyond be. I’d avoid the Cowboy CB-6900 just because of the stupid name. Whoever came up with that model name needs to be slapped. The original Juki LS-1341 is a very nice design in my opinion, I’ve been trying to get my hands on one for a while now

We need to see the view with the clutch rotated 180˚. That little hook catch only engages when you reset the clutch. The actual hook shaft driving connection is on the opposite side. That clutch looks pretty chewed up along the rim, indicating it has caused trouble for previous owners, or previous owners caused trouble for the clutch. Here’s a video that goes into more detail about these safety clutches:

Also double check your top thread path, it doesn’t look quite right in your picture. This is the correct way to thread the machine:

My slightly educated guesses here are as follows: Parameter n0: top motor speed 500rpm - 3,000rpm Parameter n1: motor rotation direction (clockwise, counter-clockwise) Parameter n2: Needle Positioning (NP) enabled/disabled (disabled or ‘“0” unless NP sensor is installed) Parameter n3: Needle stop position up/down (only if NP is enabled) Parameter n9: Motor speed while positioning needle (only if NP is enabled): 800rpm-2,000rpm Based on the above assumptions, I would recommend the following: - You can safely ignore parameters n2,n3, and n9, since they likely deal with needle positioning operation and you don’t have the required sensor installed. Don’t change those parameters, you will either get an error message or it will have no effect. - Use parameter n0 to adjust max speed of the motor with pedal all the way down. I’d recommend a setting this parameter to “7” for 700rpm maximum motor speed to start with. Change as desired. - If your motor spins in the correct direction now (arrow on belt cover), then you don’t ever need to change parameter n1. Once it’s correct, you don’t have to change it for the life of your machine+motor+table configuration. - I don’t think the starting speed of your motor is adjustable. It will likely always start spinning at around 300rpm when you press the pedal.