Uwe

You have my sympathies trying to follow those instruction in the manual. Juki generally writes good manuals but this isn't one of them. It reads as if they're deliberately trying to confuse you even if you know what you're doing.

A link to the manual you're using would be helpful. It's not clear what the manual actually says and what you actually did. You'll have to elaborate on that and be more precise in your description. We can't see your machine.

That's not a simple task. The closest thing to a video is this one (https://youtu.be/TIxQViDgL1c) showing the procedure for a Singer 111W. On your Juki LU-562, you also have to remove your reverse handle bar. If you're new to sewing machines, I'd recommend paying a capable mechanic to replace the belt. If you're mechanically inclined and you can live with the machine being down for a few days or weeks or forever, you can start exploring.

The timing belt position and synchronization of top/bottom shaft mainly affects the timing of the feed movement, which is important, but really has nothing to do with how the thread wraps around the hook. You can adjust the hook position to time properly with the needle movement no matter where the timing belt is set (especially if feed motion is set to "0".) It's possible to have perfect hook-to-needle timing and very wrong feed movement timing. My Juki LS-341 also has two thread holes in the take-up lever (intended for double needle versions.) If your take-up lever has two holes, use the lower of the two holes. It may provide an extra millimeter of thread slack when it counts. For moving beyond the science of adjusting by the book to the art of buttery smoothness, I'd recommend ignoring the needle rise figure for hook timing. I personally stopped using needle rise figures for hook timing a while ago. It's a pain to measure and often not very precise. I now use hook position at needle bottom dead center instead to time the hook. Make a note of the hook tip position when the needle is a bottom dead center (after adjusting by the book.) It very likely will point at 7 o'clock (needle is at 9 o'clock.) Advance the hook tip to be at 7:30 o'clock on the clock face at needle BDC. Adjust needle bar if needed. Experiment with subtle hook position adjustments. With a little luck, this may be all that's needed to avoid thread snapping around the hook. Ideally, the check spring alone would provide a small amount of tension as the thread wraps around the hook. Later designs have a separate adjustment to control the thread-round-the-hook slack and allow the check spring to determine thread tension somewhat independently of hook timing. We had a topic relating to these newer adjustment devices recently. Your 341 class machine lacks that device, but the topic will help you understand why they eventually invented it - because they were struggling to avoid thread snapping around the hook! Here's a picture I made a while ago to illustrate the imaginary clock face concept.

Not sure where you found the 91-000 237-25 reference - in my Pfaff 545 parts book ( Pfaff-145-545-Parts.pdf) that number is only used for the bobbin winder. My parts book does show the 91-000 237-25 screw in three places, two of them associated with the 91-008 021-11 lift bracket. In any case, that 91-000 237-15 screw on my Pfaff 545 appears to be a 3/16"-32 (3/16"=4.762mm, 32tpi=0.79375mm), which is almost identical to an M5-0.8, but an M5-0.8 does not thread into the hole on my Pfaff 545, the diameter is a tiny bit too wide. The 3/16"-32 (and the M5) is also very close the common #10-32 (.190"= 4.826mm) available at most hardware stores. You may get lucky with this one. All three screws have the same pitch for all practical purposes, but the thread diameter increases a small amount from 3/16" (4.762mm )to #10 (4.826mm) and to M5 (5mm). A #10-32 will usually thread into an M5 hole, but not the other way around. A #10-32 may also thread into a 3/16"-32 hole.

Great find on thee service manual! It's nice to know they still add documentation for vintage machines. Here's the Adler 220 Service Manual PDF file for LW archival purposes (I have a bigger upload limit): Adler-220-Service-Manual.pdf

I have two documents in my archive that may be of interest: Adler 220 Brochure: Leaflet_Adler_class_220 (1).pdf Adler 220 Parts List: Adler 220 parts.pdf

The third pedal is for reverse.

If you want bragging rights among you darning friends, I have two Singer 133 cylinder arm darning machines ($1,500 for the pair): On the lighter flatbed side and not among your preferred brands, I have two Juki LZ-271 (brochure: lz271.pdf ) - $350 for one, $500 for the pair. They're officially a zig-zag embroidery machines, but if you set the zig-zag to zero, it's a normal darning machine. Of course zig-zag darning can be useful, too.

The price difference likely is due to the realities of manufacturing economics. Development and tooling cost for a low volume niche product tends to increase the per-unit cost drastically. The reason it only costs $7K and not $17K is because they can re-use engineering and tooling from the high volume flatbed heads. I for one am grateful that there are companies who innovate at all. The sales to the LW demographic do not sustain the OEM companies. Those sales get lost in rounding errors in their annual report. But we get to enjoy all that innovation after the patents expire and clone makers take over.

For what it's worth, the Juki LS-2342 Parts List (Juki LS-2342 Parts List.pdf) does show a set of synchronized binder parts on Page 57: Notably, the set of parts includes a vertical feed cam, apparently to "turn off" the vertical feed dog movement for binding mode. Second notable detail is that the Feed Plate A arm (part #3) rests on top of the feed dog (with a registration pin) and has a knurled tip, which acts as the actual bottom feeding surface. Looks like they put some thought into this. Cost of the Juki LS-2342 binder parts set is $601 on the Juki Americas online parts store:

I have a feeling they didn't sell many kits and it just wasn't worth bothering. At $526.91 ten years ago, it wasn't exactly cheap. Even today with more machines and clones in circulation, I'm estimating the potential customer base among the LW crowd who are willing to fork over that kind of money for a binder kit is in the very low single digits. Most people in the business of binding don't bother trying to make off-the-shelf binders work. They just have a custom binder made that is perfect for one single application. Juki may still make and sell some individual items in the kit, I'm not sure. Here's a screenshot of the Juki 2008 parts price list:

That’s quite impressive! Thanks for sharing some real world evidence of what the machine can do at the limits.

We need somebody who has an actual machine to check if the machine can still make 7mm tall steps even if you put 12mm of material under the feet. Often machines can make full size steps on top of the maximum material they can take under feet.

No, it means the machine can walk with 7mm high steps on top of the material, no matter how thick the material is. In theory, if you put 14mm of felt material under the feet, the feet should still be able to walk with 7mm high steps on top of the 14mm of material.

Yes, the rear foot will stay down. It only lifts if the front foot presses against something. $150 is indeed a lot for a Singer style presser foot, it seems. They may have some New-Old-Stock that, when it's gone, it'll be gone for good. I'd better store my precious Singer 240029 foot in a safe until I can find a buyer who can secure financing. I found one more alternative in my stash: an original Simanco USA two-part foot with top No. 93813 and bottom No. 203013, but they seem to be just as rare as the other foot. If I find any more I'll be able to retire early. I'm willing to let go of one of my super precious presser feet for $50 shipped within the US (send me a PM if interested.) Here's the picture of the second candidate (I have two, rear is new-old-stock, front is slightly used.)

I think the 7mm figure is referring to the maximum walking height of the feet as they walk (called "top feed stroke" in the specs below.) The Service manual shows this: The old casting of the Pfaff 335 was built with four different foot lift heights (maximum clearance under the feet): H1, H2, H3, and H4 . I don't see any such differentiation for the new casting of the Paff 335. They list just one figure for maximum clearance under the foot: 14mm (https://www.pfaff-industrial.com/en/portfolio/sewing-machines/cylinder-arm/pfaff335) .

If there's LocTite (a variation on Superglue or Cyanoacrylate) involved, the heat from a torch will soften the glue - which is what Wiz was referring to, I think. Lacking a torch, Acetone (nail polish remover) may be worth a try. Just pour some into the threaded hole and let it sit overnight. It may dissolve the glue enough to let the screw go.

You should be able to just remove the front walking (or vibrating) foot and install a slotted needle feed presser foot on the rear presser bar. They come in two styles, so you don't really have to rotate the presser bar. Below are pictures of two Singer style needle feed feet I have, showing the two different mounting orientation. The left foot is one example of a slotted needle feed foot that can be installed on a Singer 111W155 without rotating the presser bar (Singer Part No. 240029, this one's made in W. Germany)

Very few of the normal pricing guidelines apply to Hawaii. Some things are cheaper because you're much closer to the Asian manufacturers, but many things get the very-remote-island markup. You probably know best what new machines cost in Hawaii. Take a third off and you have fair deal on a good used machine, half off is a very good deal, two thirds off is a bargain. Much depends on the condition of the machine, as always.

100 years ago most people bought new industrial sewing machines from the companies that designed AND built them. There was a small cobbler or shoe repair shop in most villages or neighborhoods, which accounted for a good portion of new machine sales. The needs of those small shops that needed versatile machines entered into the design of the machines back then. Nowadays, I suspect that cobblers, small custom shops and hobbyists account for well below 1% of new industrial machine sales from Juki, Durkopp Adler, or any of the other OEM manufacturers who still develop new machine designs. It makes no economic sense for them to spend effort on design requirements of such a tiny demographic. They design for the big companies who set up production facilities with hundreds of single-purpose machines. Those companies do not want table attachments. They want a separate workstation for every production step. If they need a flatbed for one production step, they just use a flatbed machine. The old-but-not-ancient cylinder arm machine designs like the Juki TSC-441, Juki LS-341, Durkopp Adler 205, and several others actually DO have one or more accessory mount points integrated into the cylinder arm. The OEM companies just never designed or produced a flatbed table attachment for those machines, at least to my knowledge. I highly doubt Juki was involved in the design of the standard, table-mounted flatbed table that you can buy from the 441 clone dealers.

Thanks for the endorsment @Joon1911! Below is the installation video for my UT-441 flatbed attachment (I'm working on another batch and they'll be in stock again next week.) The flatbed attachment may look simple and obvious now, but it was a bit of an engineering challenge to come up with a design that uses existing mount points while making it functional, solid, and easy to mount.

Here's the side-by-side parts list of the two hooks you can install in a Juki LU-563: Standard: B1830-563-0A0 Thick Thread: B1830-563-BA0 Both hooks were carried over to the later Juki LU-1500 Series of machines.

The feed eccentric unit may bind up due to dried oil or dirt before it reaches the limits of its adjustment travel, which could limit stitch length. I'm working on a video on how to take the feed eccentric assembly apart for cleaning and how to adjust the friction gib - hopefully i'll get it done soon.

My Juki LS-341 has a felt pad. The purpose is likely to soak the felt with Silicone or similar lubricant to coat the thread as it passes by. I have a feeling this pad goes missing on a lot of used machines, but new ones should definitely have it.