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This eBay listing shows everything you need for setting up the machine for binding. At USD $110, it’s not a very big investment. https://www.ebay.com/itm/166181002954 The actual tape folders are kind of generic and not too expensive. Search Ebay for “Tape Folder”.Example: https://www.ebay.com/itm/364562394563 You can also buy high quality parts directly from a manufacturer in Taiwan, called Kwok Hing. Search for “1245”. You have to create an account to see pricing. I’ve ordered from them many times. They also sell tape folders and many other binding parts. https://www.khsew.com/index.php?route=product/search&search=1245

Great, congrats! Please post a link and screen shot to that listing on Amazon. Others may look for the same needle bar in the future. Was it this one? https://www.amazon.com/Needle-Singer-Consew-Industrial-Machine/dp/B077CZCLSG Any details on the installation? Do you have a list of steps, or parts that need be removed to get the needle bar out? There’s precious little documentation available on service tasks for these machines. Anything you can add would help.

@SingerDadIt’s possible that your old black Pfaff 145 was modified at some point, who knows. That transition from needle bar to needle holder in your photo looks a bit non-OEM to me. To accommodate different-diameter needle bar would require a different needle rocker frame. Perhaps some parts were exchanged in the past from other subclass models. The parts diagram does show two versions of the rocker frame, and three needle bars. I’ve not seen these variations in person, so can’t say if there’s any dimensional variation. The needle bar 97-712488-92 on the right does appear slightly slimmer in the drawing. College Sewing in the UK has that 97-712488-92 needle bar listed as a Pfaff 335 needle bar. It looks very different from what you have on your machine. That OEM Pfaff needle bar is expensive and may not be available in a cheap aftermarket version. If the only offending aspect of your existing needle bar is the missing thread guide hole, I’d seriously consider attaching a small wire loop (silver-solder, glue, spot-weld?) to the tip of your needle bar to make a thread guide.

The thread guide does appear to have broken off on your needle bar. Buy a replacement part based on part number, not based on some measured diameter. Ebay is a good place to research part numbers quickly, if you’re not into examining parts diagrams (https://www.diamondneedle.com/documents/Pfaff Parts Manual/145_545.pdf). Just search eBay for “Pfaff 145 needle bar” and multiple vendors will have offerings with the Pfaff part number in the title. In this case : 91-710650-92. The parts list shows a few variations of the needle bar, but I think this is the one you’re looking for. They all should have the same diameter. Here’s one example from a US based vendor: https://www.ebay.com/itm/122464240704 Screen shot: If you want to get an OEM replacement part, you can order it directly from Pfaff/DAP in Atlanta Georgia (https://www.dapamerica.com/products-and-services/#) . Call their parts department and give them the part number. It’ll cost more than the cheap copies available on Ebay but may well be worth it. Replacing the needle bar may be a bit involved. Your existing needle bar will need come out the bottom, which means you’ll potentially have to remove everything that’s in the way (throat plate, feed dog, hook, etc.) I’m not sure it’s essential to replace the needle bar just for the thread guide hole. You can make/hack some thread guide out of a piece of wire and it’ll probably work just fine. Some of the other needle bars for this series don’t have a thread guide hole at all.

Debugging friction is very hard to do sitting in front of the machine, let an alone remotely. Lift the feet up, so you’re not lifting feet against spring pressure when you’re turning the hand wheel. That spring pressure can feel like a tight spot. Make sure things are well oiled and clean. Old, dried oil residue can cause friction in unexpected places. In my hook timing video I show one step to align an eccentric bushing (at the 8:50 mark.) I had noticed this because it was suddenly causing a tight spot after I made an adjustment because the part was no longer properly aligned. I’m not saying your machine has this specific issue, but to show that a tiny adjustment can introduce a point of friction. When I work on a machine I’m generally very methodical, changing one thing at a time and checking if I’m introducing a tight spot. Here’s a link to that hook timing video, for the benefit of others reading this topic:

Neither of the two Puritan catalogs I have (Puritan-Catalog-Manual-Parts-older.pdf Puritan-Catalog-Manual-Parts-newer.pdf) show this model. The Puritan website (http://www.puritanindustries.net) existed in 2015 but appears to have been abandoned. The company itself may still exist, but they’re not making it easy to find or contact them. Online searches only reveal a few obscure (and likely obsolete) references when searching for Puritan Industries. Most of what I know about Puritan is based on my Puritan saga in 2015 (nine years ago!) chronicled in this topic: Bottom line from my perspective is that I’ve given up trying to make my own Puritan work. My machine had mismatched parts, and making them match was cost prohibitive in 2015 and may be downright impossible now. @DeKing best of luck with your machine. My advice would be: Don’t get too invested and prepare for disappointment.

Maybe the motors don’t have the same size pulley installed? There may be other parameters that control motor speed. Perhaps one machine is actually sewing slower than the other because of some other parameter limiting speed. You assume the slower machine runs at 2400rpm - maybe it’s the faster one actually runs at 2400rpm. You’d have to compare all the speed related parameters between the two machines to make sure they’re set identical.

Also keep in mind that with this type of machine, you have to hold the top and bottom thread for the first few stitches to avoid a bird’s nest. If the hook catches the loop, you can’t be too far off. Here’s a picture of how to hold the thread when you start sewing: Here’s how to check the safety clutch and reset it on the Pfaff 545. Here’s how to install the bobbin using the bobbin cap:

There are lots of topics around the Cowboy 4500 here on LW. It’s a very capable machine and very popular here in the US. It’s a copy of the Juki TSC-441, which is still in production. Essentially the same specs as the Adler 205. The Adler has some technically superior details (like cam-driven foot lift motion), but you may not notice the difference in your work. At $800, it too would be bargain- if it’s in good shape. They sell for around $3,000 new here in the US.

It’s possible to do this. I had a machine once that had been converted, but I don’t have pictures, sorry. Essentially you have to remove the small pivoting lever and extend the existing long foot lift lever with a suitable piece of angle stock or C-channel that hooks under the lever for, well, leverage. You can use the existing hole/slot in the lift lever to attach the extension with a bolt&nut. Then you can run a small chain or flexible metal wire from the end of the lever extension to a pedal you step on. Here’s a sketch of the concept: Depending on your table configuration you can use an existing pedal, or you can make one from a hinge and a piece of wood like this foot lift pedal on the right.

@Rob2613 the specs on the leaflet show that the 205-374 head by itself weighs 58kg (127 lbs.). You’ll need at least two people to move it safely. I’ve moved a head by myself, but I really don’t recommend it. You should be able to remove the hand wheel, which weighs quite a bit all by itself. With the hand wheel removed the main shaft stub sticking out makes a good handle for lifting. Don’t lift the head by the hand wheel if you leave it on - it may suddenly rotate and cause you to loose grip. The thick bars/shafts on the back of the machine also make a good grip for lifting the head. The head will definitely want to tip to the left once you loosen the bolts that attach it to the table, especially with the hand wheel removed. Remove the bolts on the right side of the base (under the hand wheel) last and have somebody hold up the left end of the head. Then re-install those bolts first when re-mounting the head to the table. Lay the machine head gently on its back for transport, don’t keep it upright. It’s very top heavy and wants to fall over. The table by itself shouldn’t be too heavy if it’s a standard industrial table with servo motor. If it’s mounted on a tall metal stand that is common here in the US, it’ll be quite heavy. The stand comes apart in two pieces for transport. The pressurized gas cylinder inside the column is quite strong to balance the weight of the head - be carful when loosening the screws on the column to adjust or remove the top of the column. Here’s picture of that stand (your machine may not have this:) Best of luck moving your machine. Post some pictures when you get a chance!

The (Durkopp) Adler 205 are *really* nice machines. The 205-374 and 205-370 are perhaps the most desirable version for general leather work. @Rob2613 that Adler 205-374 would be a bargain at 1400 Euros if it’s in good condition. The Adler 205 series machines have been out of production since 2010 (I think), so certain parts may be getting hard to find. Durkopp Adler replaced the 205 with the 969 H-Type, which starts around 7000 Euros for a basic model. It’s much bigger and has higher specs than the 205. Consider it if you can afford it. Here’s the pamphlet for the Adler 205-374 with specs: Leaflets_Adler_Class_205-374.pdf @Goldshot Ron, I’m glad you got the problem fixed. The additional spacer rings likely increased the available room inside the shuttle race to make it less likely for thread to get caught between shuttle hook and race. Adding the spacer rings also increased the needle-to-hook distance, but if the hook still reliable catches the loop, then you’re good. Since there’s bit of confusion around the spacers, here’s a bit more detail for others who might be following this topic: There’s actually two types of spacers: 1. The needle spacer shims that you use to adjust the needle guide distance depending on needle size. This is what you change to match the needle size. 2. Spacer rings that go behind the shuttle race to allow you to adjust the hook-to-needle distance. These spacer rings are not affected by needle or thread size. Adler uses very thin rings in various thicknesses that you can mix-and-match and stack to achieve the desired thickness. (Juki 441 class machines use a single ring, available in various precise dimensions, but not stackable.) Here’s what the needle spacers shims look like: Here’s what the spacer rings look like: This video shows how to remove the shuttle race (although there’s no need to remove the race to install a feed dog.) Make sure your race lock screw is NOT tightened when you sew. It should only be tightened when you remove the shuttle. If the race lock screw is tightened, then the shuttle hook will NOT be spring loaded, but fixed. If it’s fixed then it’s more likely to bind up if something like thread gets caught between the shuttle and the race. Here’s the location of that race lock screw: If you’re new to the Adler 205 or consider buying one, then this video might be helpful in terms of an introduction: This video shows how the stitch is formed on this class of machine. Compare hook position at the very back, and hook timing with your machine. I had a similar problem (thread getting caught in race channel, but only when sewing in reverse) on a Juki TSC-441 class machine once (Cowboy 4500.) On that particular machine, the problem was resolved by carefully timing the hook to spec. Here’s the video showing the problem on the Cowboy 4500. I have a feeling that your problem on the Adler 205 will look a lot like this one. The hook and shuttle race design between the Juki and the Adler are very similar, but not identical.

The threading is indeed correct according to the video by Leather Machine Co. you referenced. Here’s a screen shot from that video: This hook and bobbin case is different from what I have on my Juki LS-341 (your Class 26 is mostly a clone of the Juki, aside from the hook, apparently) The orientation of the latch arm that you fold down on top of the bobbin is pointing the opposite direction on my Juki. On the original Juki style hook, the bobbin thread stays below the triangular piece that the bobbin case opener pushes against. Previous posters expected to see the bobbin thread to have a path like on my Juki, I think. On your style hook the bobbin thread does indeed get threaded to the top of the latch arm, it’s clearly designed that way. The hook design on your machine reminds me of hooks I’ve seen on modern Durkopp Adler machines. Hook design used in the Durkopp Adler 867, with a very similar bobbin latch arm and thread path to your machine: So I doubt that the thread path is the cause of the issues you’re experiencing. From watching your video, it appears to me that two things are not quite right: 1. The thread occasionally does not slip easily into the cutout on the underside of the throat plate, where the thread has to wrap around the tab. You may have to adjust the finger (bobbin case opener) that pulls back on the bobbin basket to open the passageway that the thread has to slip through. (See video below) 2. The thread also appear to be let go too late from the gib that’s on the bottom of the hook. This indicates to me that the thread take-up lever starts pulling up on the thread before the hook has let go of the thread. This snag may cause loops at the bottom and also audible snapping sounds. Advancing the hook timing *should* help with that. This video shows how the stitch cycle works on my Juki LS-341. This video shows in more detail how that bobbin case opener is supposed to work: : This video illustrates the problem of the thread not being let go (cast off) by the hook gib soon enough (different machine than yours, but same issue). Advancing the hook timing (making the hoo tip arrive earlier at the needle) fixed the problem shown in this video: Hopefully these videos will help get you started on your path towards figuring out what the problem might be on your machine.

One more …

This video might shed some light on how mechanism is supposed to work. You may just need to add few drops of oil to get yours going again. Don’t take off the fabric belt, it may never be the same again.

Here’s the website of the machine in question: https://www.vetrontypical-europe.com/typical-gc20665l14d It appears to be a decent medium/heavy duty compound feed sewing machine. It’s not an apparent clone of anything I recognize. Typical is a big enough brand to perhaps develop their own variations on certain themes. It does bear a certain resemblance with a Juki LU 1510N-7, but the body casting details are different. Who knows what’s going on inside. You have to compare parts diagrams side-by-side to determine how similar they are.

I’m not sure what an Adler K268 looks like, either. Pics would be great. The Durkopp Adler 268 Service manual(DA-268-Service-Manual.pdf) describes how to adjust the feed dog position and movement on pages 6 and 7. Hopefully these instruction will work on your machine as well. In general the feed dog movement should be centered in the throat plate opening. There will likely be a gap in front and back even at the highest stitch length. You don’t want to the feed dod to touch the throat plate, ever. Here’s what a Durkopp Adler 268 looks like, the class the manual above was written for:

Yep, I’m also putting my money on your Singer 531-8BL being a relabeled Seiko STH-8BL. The later models had a rotary stitch length dial with a separate reverse lever. This machine should do reverse, just like all the others with this type of combination stitch-length-and-reverse lever. It’s very likely a Seiko Design manufactured by Seiko in Japan and sold with various badges around the world. Consew was the marketing brand that Seiko used to distribute their machines in the USA. Here’s a picture of the original Seiko STH-8BL:

Yep, it appears that the Singer 18 class is very similar, and @Constabulary beat me to it and very likely knows more about it than I do. I also would recommend staying away from this model as a first machine. It may be a great machine and all, but it’s such an oddball machine that you’re essentially on your own figuring it out. At the same time, it may be valuable in a collector sense, since it’s such a rare vintage machine. Here’s a manual I found for the Singer 18 class: class_18.pdf The images below are the only manual I could find for the original Adler 49. Unfortunately the good soul who photographed them wasn’t very good at it, so the quality is rather poor. It’s also in German. But it may be better than nothing.

It seems hard to believe they would ship the motor without instructions on how to change controller settings. Give the Leather Machine Co. folks a call and after they give you the manual, post it here. I don’t know why they don’t just post the manual on their website. Or better yet, have a QR code that points to the manual online right on the controller box, like mine does.

Your motor is likely the same as the SEWPRO motor, judging from the front panel and type plate. The rear should look like this: The two-pin connector has the light icon right next to it. The front panel has an “S” button to turn the light on and off: It’s very likely a 5V LED light outlet, but the documentation you got with the motor should really tell you that. Verifying with a voltmeter doesn’t hurt either. Please upload your images directly here on LW. Externally hosted images tend to just disappear after a while, often rendering the topic useless to future viewers. I’m embedding your other image here as well, just for posterity’s sake: The manual for my motor (similar but not identical to yours) came with a section like this, showing the connectors and pin-outs. YOURS MAY BE DIFFERENT! I’M JUST POSTING THIS SO YOU KNOW WHAT TO LOOK FOR IN YOUR MANUAL! If your motor manual doesn’t include this information, please call the folks at the Leather Machine Co. and complain about the incomplete documentation for your motor.

The folks Leather Machine Co. should be able to tell you if the screw in the handwheel has Loctite or other glue on it. With or without Loctite, make sure you use the largest screw driver you can securely fit into the slot of the screw to get maximum torque without slipping. The concepts of setting the positions for needle positing are not really brand or model specific. There’s no really hard rule and your preference may play a role. Exactly how you set the position depends on the specific position sensor and motor controller you use. On my Juki LS- 341 (which the Cobra Class 26 is a clone of,) I set the needle-down position to be after the hook catches the thread loop and the tip of the hook is at 12 o’clock (a quarter of a hook turn past the needle). In this position the loop is securely caught and the needle is still in the material to pivot the material around when making turns. For needle-up position, you can either set it to when the needle is a top dead center (for maximum foot lift and needle clearance) or when the thread take-up lever is a the very top (knot is pulled tight, good position to remove material, but needle is already on its way down again.) I use the take-up lever at very top position. Whether or not you can set each needle stop position independently depends on the needle positioner hardware and motor controller software. On my needle positioner (which has just one physical sensor) you set one needle position manually via the indicator light for the sensor. The other needle position is offset my 180˚ by default and can be fine-tuned via settings on the controller to advance or retard the second needle position. Some needle positioners have two physical sensors and you set each position by adjusting the position of the sensor discs inside. Please post a link to video you referenced, and then post some photos of your particular setup for the needle positioner installation. I’m not sure how you were able to install the position sensor without removing the center handwheel screw. If the positioner is not securely attached to the hand-wheel and slips, all bets are off. Here’s what the hand wheel of my Juki LS-341 looks like: My installation required the use of the adapter that is held in place by a center screw that replaced the original one in the hand wheel. The green light comers on when the sensor is triggered, for manual adjustment of the first needle position. I rotated the handwheel into the precise position I wanted, then I loosened the sensor collar and rotated it until the light came on, then tightened the collar again.

Here are the Durkopp Adler 268 manuals and leaflets I have in my archive, just to actually attach them to this topic in one place (since search engines are going to be pulling up this topic for Adler 268 manual searches in the future). Durkopp Adler 268 Service Manual: DA-268-Service-Manual.pdf Durkopp Adler 268 Parts List: 268 Parts List.pdf Durkopp Adler 268 Owners Manual: 268_gb.pdf Durkopp Adler 268 Leaflets Part 1:Leaflets_Adler_class_268_part1.pdf Durkopp Adler 268 Leaflets Part 2: Leaflets_Adler_class_268_part2.pdf

Looking at the Adler 768 parts list (durkopp_adler_768.pdf), the part numbers for the feed dogs begin with 0768. This indicates that the feed dogs are a newly designed part for the 768 generation and unlikely to be compatible with earlier models. Parts that are carried over from earlier models will retain the same part number. The parts list has a bunch of parts with numbers that start with 0268, 0367, etc. Those parts are carryover parts and thus interchangeable with earlier model generations indicated by the first four digits of the part number.

It takes only a small piece of metal in the wrong place to lock up a machine. Are you sure you retrieved all the bits of the broken needle from the hook area? Did something else break besides the needle? If the needle breaking incident was hard enough and at high speed, something may have slipped out of position and is now touching something it shouldn’t. You may have to do a careful investigation of all the parts that could slip. I’d recommend disconnecting the motor (remove the belt) until you get the issue resolved and the machine to turn over smoothly by hand.