Joon1911

Bigpaws, Would you mind sharing your basic process for covering your clips?

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Shooter, Thanks for the clarification. Definitely good to know.

Shooter, I can't say with certainty that the ejection port is different between the .45 acp and 9mm XD-s models (as I don't have a 9mm version to compare) but I'd be really surprised if the size of the ports was that different. Seeing as the OAL between the two calibers averages only about 0.100" difference between the two, I can't imagine there would be a sizable difference. You write with conviction, do you know for certain that these do vary?

Blackey, You may realize or maybe not, but the OP is referring to the XD-s single stack pistols, not the original XD line. Two very different pistols. In the case of the XD yes the .45acp version is larger scale than the 9/40 but in the newer XD-s series the .45acp version came first and then was reverse engineered down to 9 mm, thus the two have nearly identical dimensions of frame and slide. From the SA website: original XD newer XD-s series

Clean, In the few revolver holsters I've made so far, most of the retention seems to come from where the leather forms around the rear end of the cylinder, so in the case of your pattern it would be on the body facing side of the holster. One thing to be aware of is that retention will become somewhat tighter when the holster is actually worn as the wing on the Avenger will draw the holster into the body. I've had to remake a holster because I was happy with the retention until I tried it on an drew the revolver ( more like tried to draw, LOL) It was clamped in so tight that I couldn't draw without significant force.

Charlie, What purpose does the vulcanized spacer material serve as a liner for holsters? I've used it before as an aesthetic visual element in knife scales but never thought to use it for a liner. Can you explain more about your process?

Ohio Travel Bag has a 16" and 18" option in their latest catalog. They will even make custom sizes for you assuming you need the minimum quantity they require which is 100 pieces. Hope this helps.

Hello Tor, Any chance you could Post a new link to download the 441 PDFs?

#25

Google search using your keywords shows a version sold on eBay that looks like it includes a replacement bobbin plate that mounts the feeder: http://www.ebay.com/itm/PFAFF-545-BINDER-SET-SINGLE-FOLD-RIGHT-ANGLE-COMPLETE-/290723344351?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item43b0762fdf Seller's feedback rating is 99.8% with over 56k feedback. I can't say how well it works but there is a pre-made alternative. BBB rates seller as A rating with no complaints in the 3 years. Can't ask for more than that. I have no connection to seller btw. Hope this helps.

Looks to me like you could just take a piece of wood and have anyone with a tablesaw run some kerf cuts along it to make the appropriate sized slot to sit your leather into. I don't know that I've ever seen such a jig for sale.

If the motor corresponds to most modern motors you should be able to just reverse your black and red leads. That SHOULD reverse the direction of the motor. White should be neutral, both black and red should be hot. You can check with a multimeter or even one of the "dummy" current checkers that you can get at your local hardware store similar to this: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-Non-Contact-Voltage-Tester-NCVT-1/203578320 With the motor plugged in the black and red wires should have current and cause the tester to ping, white should not.

Edd, Looks really nice. Where did you purchase the Zulu hardware? I'd like to make one similar for my Luminox Pointman.

I'm a novice at this game, so my input is limited. I just purchased a Cobra Class 4 from Steve about 3 weeks ago and am getting it squared away. The biggest thing I could think of as worth the price differential is whether the machine will be set up and timed from the factory or whether you will have to do these things yourself? Also do you have the knowledge and skill base to do all the maintenance without any real outside support? If you are experienced and can answer yes to those questions I could see the Keestar being a good deal. That being said, for someone like me, I value the after purchase service enough to pay the premium price. It gives me peace of mind that a year from now if I need help figuring out something that I can call Steve up and ask the question. That's also why I didn't buy a machine on the secondary markets like eBay and the trade channels here on the forum. Hope that is helpful.

That was my thought exactly. They are both listed as 100% neatsfoot oil, so I wasn't sure why the great price disparity. I'm not even sure where neatsfoot oil comes from really. Thanks for the responses, I think I'll try the Shep's to see how it compares to the Fiebings, but if anyone else has any experience with these or different manufacturers of neatsfoot oil ( or anything else that they use to return some of the oil to wetmoulded leather) I would appreciate your input greatly.

Just wondering if everyone here uses the Fiebing's neatsfoot oil? I am shopping for a new container of 100% neatsfoot oil and ran across the Sheps brand which is nearly half the cost of the Fiebings. Has anyone had experience with the Sheps? I've only used Fiebing's personally. Thanks in advance.

Yes, they have an anvil for the one-way snaps http://www.sailrite.com/Pres-N-Snap-One-Way-Fastener-Die

Hi, I was going to invest in a new snap setter for setting Pull the Dot fasteners. Is the DOT brand Snapmaster worth twice as much as the Pres-N-Snap tool? With all the anvils and the tool the DOT brand is over twice the cost of the the Pres-N-Snap. I don't mind spending more if I'm getting a better tool, but I hope someone on the forum has experience with both and can offer me some advice? Here are links: http://www.sailrite.com/dot-snapmaster-hand-press http://www.sailrite.com/Pres-N-Snap-Fastener-Tool

Hi, Does anyone know if the model designation of HS on a Tippmann Boss mean it is one of the newer cast aluminum units or one of the older cast iron units? Thanks

Mike, 50/50 mixture of Mop & Glow and what?

That's pretty cool. Can I ask what supplier the shark is from? The mottled color on the shark is not something I've seen before. Also the grommet/ eyelet you used for the chain is very interesting, if you could also say who the vendor is for that. Thanks.

The original design of those clips are called Tek-Loks and they were designed by Rob Terzuola (famed knife maker) and Tim Wegner of Blade-Tech. Blade-tech still sells them in two sizes. Here's a link: Tek-Lok small clip

Hi, I have been dabbling at making holsters for myself the last several months or so. I was wondering what type of metal holstermakers use underneath the second layer of leather when you see a reinforced holster mouthband similar to this: Also I have questions as to how I go about adding the reinforcement from a methodical standpoint. Do I add it prior to molding the leather to the pistol? Do I add the reinforcement after a prior moulding, etc... You get the point. Can anyone give me an idea from a process standpoint how I would go about reinforcing the mouthband of my holsters? Thanks

Thanks for the suggestion, do you have contact info for the Douglases?