mattsh

Looks good. I like the color.

Nice work. Looks good!

Sweet! I love the look. Congrats on the patience to do that.

Nice look for first revolver holster. Think I agree with Mike on the belt loops they look a little short.

I do the loops the same as Mr Kelley and Shooter.

Very nice. I like it.

I have only done one sheath with carving/stamping. I did all of the carving/stamping before stitching. I think it would be difficult to do the carving/stamping after you have it stitched together because of the two layers of leather you would be working with and that would not be solid enough to get good stamping. Welcome to the forum!

Nice pistol, looks to be a Sig pro line model. Good job on the project.

Nice looking stuff. Good job.

Thanks for the tutorial.

Nice job on everything. I like that tuckable. It looks cool.

interesting color combo. looks good!

Robert and Kevin - Thanks for the answers, that helps explain it. Robert I really like those slings, they look really good. ...and duh....its an 1895... I was in too much of a hurry.... silly me

Pretty sharp. I like it. Good job on the stamping it looks very nice.

Question, I dont know much about slings, but in the Marlin 336 and the Marlin 39 sling, just below the wide pad there is the strap that comes out of the pad and forms a small "loop" that seems to be snapped/riveted to the main strap. What is the purpose or maybe, why is it like that?

Looks really good!

Sweet!

Yup - I agree with Lobo, that's how I do it as well.

@Mr Martin and Mr Peter - I understand your concerns around the safety strap. I debated for quite some time on how to put a safety strap on this sheath. I have had many sheaths with the safety strap on the edge side of the knife and it annoys me to have the edge rub against the safety strap and put little cuts in it. I wanted something to hold the blade in without interfering with drawing the knife out or placing it back in the sheath. What I did and maybe its not showing in the pictures well enough but I cut the back piece that forms the belt slots along the curvature of the bolster and handle so that the safety strap actually wraps around the handle and the bolster putting pressure on it when it is snapped over the stud. Also, to help in this I wet formed the sheath to the blade and the welt is only as thick as the spine. In the end the blade almost snaps into place when it is seated all the way into the sheath. Time will tell if it holds up, but at this time the blade fits very snug in the sheath. As for the belt slots, you are correct, I did not punch a hole at the end of the cuts, I didn't have a punch small enough. I wet formed the belt slots in hopes that it will prevent any tearing.Thank you both for your comments and accolades! @Sixer - thanks!

Too funny. I did that on my last belt as well. Just started stitching from the same hole and can't even tell.

Looks good.

I don't typically make sheaths, but as of late those are the requests I have been getting. This is the first sheath or anything that I have stamped since I was in Jr High shop class about 25 years. This is for a custom knife made by J. Behring Jr. out of Montana. The knife is similar in style to the Scagel design. It's about a 4 inch blade. Here are the pics. Thanks for looking any comments or suggestions welcome. Pics are from my cell phone, so they are not as sharp as I would like.

In this year, I have made holsters for the following: Glock 19 Second Generation Glock 19 Third Generation (there is a significant differnce in frame, so yes this is a need) Springfield XD40 4 inch 1911 5 inch 1911 4.25 inch SW model19 6 inch SW model 19 4 inch Beretta PX4 .40 SW FNP 45 Kel Tec PF9 Kel Tec P11 Ruger Vaquero Old Model 5.5 inch Ruger Blackhawk New Model 4.5 inch SW 5906

Maybe this will help? The pistol has a unique slide and that is the J shaped boning line just under the sight channel. But I also outlined the sight channel in red. The long line is the slide and the next line down is the light rail.

Here is a recent holster that I finished for a friend of the family. It is a cross draw for a Kel Tec PF9. Thanks for looking.